Sunrise greeting at the first grand temple of the Khmer Empire

Mornings are the most pleasant time to visit Bakong Temple. The large stone temple gets very hot later in the day.
Bakong was the first mountain type of temple architecture design in the Khmer imperial era. It served as a state temple for king Indravarman I, in the first dedicated Khmer imperial capital at Hariharalaya.
Today this is the Roluos Group of temples east of Siem Reap City, Cambodia. Other well-known temples here is Preah Koh and Lolei.

Large Hindu influence
The temple was dedicated to Shiva, and its main consecrated image was a lingam called Sri Indresvara. This step pyramid mountain temple draws inspiration from other large Hindu temples in the region built around the same time. Most notably the fantastic Borobudur temple in Java, outside Yogyakarta.
Bakong temple was the last large construction in Hariharalaya. Indravarman’s son and heir Yasovarman I moved the capital to Phnom Bakheng in the early 900s. Bakheng Hill is just south of what we today call Angkor Thom, the big (capital) city.

For those interested in comparative historical timeline, this temple was finished as a state temple in 881CE. In Norway, the first unification of the kingdom under one superior king established the first larger Nordic kingdom.

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Prasat Bei – Trio of one out of four

Prasat Bei – ប្រាសាទបី – means three temples. On top of a small laterite platform of 10 x 24 meter there are these three towers, where the central one is fairly complete and in order. This temple tower rises 10 meter high.

The two flanking temple towers are not in that good condition, and the north one closest to the city moat around Angkor Thom was probably never properly finished. There are still some lintels with carvings left to see.

This is the largest in a quartet of temple sites on the west side of the Southern gate to Angkor Thom. Just to the east and west of this temple is the rather rudimentary remains of Sâk Krâop Temple I and II. Closer to the main road into Angkor Thom is Prasat Bay Kaek East – ប្រាសាទថ្មបាយក្អែក.

Among the earliest Angkor Thom temples
The temple was built for the Hindu god Shiva during the reign of Yasovarman I early in the 900s. This great King was the god king who moved the Khmer capital from Hariharalaya to Yaśodharapura, the area where we today find most of the most famous constructions and temples of Angkor Empire. The first central location of the new capital was built on the nearby Phnom Bakheng.

This temple is 1,5 kilometre north of Angkor Wat. It is worth visiting to get an idea of the design of the first Angkor imperial capital and its temples.

#AncienT #1020CE #Angkor #PrasatBei #Angkorwat #architecture #archive #archivephoto #art #Asia #ប្រាសាទថ្មបាយក្អែក #bike #biking #bikingintheangkorwonderland #bluesky #Buddhism #Cambodia #capitalcity #citylife #classic #khmer #countryside #daytrip #Empire #greentourism #Hinduism #history #imperial #Kampuchea #leaveonlyfootprints #offthebeatentrack #AOTBT #angkoroffthebeatentrack #2019CE #Pagoda #Prasat #BayKaek #EastPrasat #BayKaekEast #ប្រាសាទថ្មបាយក្អែក #pyramid #roadtrip #SâkKrâop #Temple #SâkKrâopTemple #Sculpture #SiemReab #SiemReap #southeastasia #takeonlyphotos #travel #visitcambodia #visitsiemreap #worldculturalheritage

That time I came to a fork in the road, and someone else choose the track most travelled. I felt obliged to choose the other one.

The area in and around Angkor Park and Siem Reap are excellent for off road biking and exploration. It is a healthy and green way to enjoy the marvels of the Khmer Empire, its origin and its later development.

Finding things not seen
I was on my way to find a couple of more secretive temples and old sites. I was trying to do that by a direct route via Bayon and Angkor Thom and north out of the Grand circle. This trip took me into dirt tracks not travelled by many.

Among things I did find were stuff like a river not supposed to be there. Some bridge and road maintenance. And a bunch of locals tending to rice fields, surprised by the pink skin visitor. But politely and smiling returning greetings of hello and well wishes for a good day.

As Khmer so often do.

It is, as always, important to respect the local’s privacy and integrity. Acting as a respectful, polite and responsible good guest in their home area are of the outmost importance. And of course, be a sensible traveller leaving only bike tracks and footprints and take only photos. Including not biking or walking into any private area or destroying any crop.

#2019CE #ancient #Angkor #angkorwat #architecture #archive #archivephoto #art #Asia #backcountry #banteaythom #bike #biking #bikingintheangkorwonderland #AOTBT #bikingintheangwonderland #bluesky #Buddhism #Cambodia #citylife #classic #khmer #countryside #daytrip #dirttrack #Empire #greentourism #Hinduism #history #imperial #Kampuchea #leaveonlyfootprints #offthebeatentrack #angkoroffthebeatentrack #Prasat #Komnap #rice #ricefield #roadtrip #Sculpture #Siem #Reab #SiemReap #southeastasia #takeonlyphotos #temple #travel #visitcambodia #visitsiemreap #worldculturalheritage

Early morning enthusiasm in the forest
That time I had to share the bike track with two very enthusiastic youngsters in the Siem Reap countryside near Angkor Thom.

Culture and nature
Water buffaloes are still of some importance in agriculture in Cambodia. Traditionally used for ploughing the fields and carting heavy loads, those tasks are increasingly done by mechanised tractors and specialised machinery. But for milk, meat, fortune and for breeding they are popular and even exported.
These animals live well of ordinary grass and water plants. All easily accessible food with no need of industrialised special fodder. They return valuable quality fertiliser in return, and they are important in keeping and being a vital part of the cultural landscape.

Respect and distance
These buffaloes are domesticated livestock, and normally quite docile. But they are each still 2 pointy ends backed by 200 kilo+ of bones and muscles, so respectful distance is smart when encountering these animals unexpected.
Me, sitting on my bike in a crossroad in front of these two fellows, continued out of their track on my way after I had taken this shot. I saw these two rumbling on their way crossing the road behind me.
Hope they enjoyed this moment as much as me.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2023/04/10/physical-distancing-pre-covid-times/

#2022CE #Angkor #angkorwat #archive #Asia #backcountry #bike #biketrip #bikingintheangkorwonderland #bluesky #bubalisbubalus #bubalus #bubalis #calf #calves #Cambodia #citylife #citywalk #classic #Khmer #dirttrack #domesticated #forest #run #greentourism #Kampuchea #Keepnothingbutmemories #khmer #Killnothingbuttime #Leavenothingbutfootprints #livestock #Morning #offthebeatentrack #AOTBT #roadtrip #running #Siem #Reab #Siem #Reap #siemreap #countryside #southeastasia #sunrise #Takenothingbutpictures #travel #visitsiemreap #Water #buffalo #waterbuffalo #waterbuffaloes #youngfun

The magic staff establishing Battambang

Battambang is the prominent border city in West-Cambodia. It is rich in cultural and historical heritage. Among its most distinctive features are the remarkable statues positioned along the major roads leading into the city.

Ta Dambong and the Magic Staff
The most iconic of these statues is the multicoloured (blue, black, and red) figure of Ta Dambong holding a magical staff, said to have won him a kingdom. This statue is located at the eastern entrance to Battambang, along the main road from Phnom Penh.

The Lok Ta Dambong Kra Nhoung Shrine is one of the most visited sacred sites in the city. Visitors frequently stop to offer prayers and make offerings of food, drink, incense, and money, seeking good fortune and safe travels. It is also common for visitors to take selfies at the shrine as a gesture for a pleasant stay in Battambang.

Ta Dambong was a herdsman who discovered a magical staff that granted him the power to overthrow the reigning monarch and seize the throne.

When the king attempted to execute the sons of the former kings who had become monks the magic staff vanished into thin air—along with Ta Dambong’s royal power.

The prince reclaims the throne once held by his father.

The tale touches themes of royal legitimacy, social hierarchy, and the revered status of monks and holy men in Cambodian culture. But Ta Dambong is also celebrated as a folk hero. The city of Battambang (from "Bat-dam-bong") is named after him, and his figure is associated with good fortune and safe travel.

Battambang was established as a city during the peak of the Khmer Empire in the 12th century.

https://helloangkor.com/attractions/ta-dumbong-statue/

#2019CE #afternoon #art #ឡូរីជើងភ្នំបាណន់ #Bamboo #Train #bambootrain #Battambang #bluesky #Cambodia #Province #colonial #countryside #khmer #ancient #angkorarchitecture #archive #Buddhism #daytrip #history #imperial #Kampuchea #roadtrip #Sculpture #site #southeastasia

When your home is a temple

Some of the temples and pagodas in Cambodia are marvels of intrinsic details. Sometimes the cohabitants are, too. Like this one at Wat Sampov at Phnom Sampov/Phnom Sampeau near Battambang.

The monkeys at most of these temple sites are peaceful. They are adjusted to be relatively safe and have access to food and water. But they are also nosy and cheeky, and any seasoned traveller know to keep their belongings, food and water well contained or hidden around these rascals. They will try to steal anything they fancy from the humans.

And never, ever feed the monkeys. It reduces their ability to hunt and gather their own food, leads to malnutrition, and they become more aggressive and can be dangerous towards humans.

Challenging small gene pools
Another challenge for these monkeys is the small number of members in some of the temple groups. That is causing some problems with inbreeding due to limited gene pools.

We are talking severe Habsburgian jaw and bulbous lips, to use a European reference to tragedy and disaster when science is absent. I have personally observed this inbreeding problem to have become lesser over the last few years. Hopefully it means the caretaking of these cultural heritage sites improves. Including for the animals.

The monkeys also ad personality to the visits to the temple, and scale to photos taken there. I would miss having them around, if they were to disappear from the temple grounds.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2021/05/04/when-your-home-iff-a-temple-some-of-the/

#2016CE #Angkor #architecture #art #batcave #Battambang #bluesky #Buddhism #Cambodia #countryside #gallery #gold #Hinduism #Kampuchea #khmer #Nikkor #Nikon #PhnomSampeou #roadtrip #Siem #Reap #siemreap #sightseeing #asia #southeastasia #templevisit #Cambodia #visitsiemreap #watsampeou #guardianhill #landscape #macaquemonkey #Mountains #nature #Pagoda #Phnom #Sampeau #PhnomSompov #teeth #temple #visitcambodia

Top gold itinerary in the Battambang hillside

The pagoda complex surrounding Wat Sampeou at the top of Phnom Sampov/Sampeou, "Ship Mountain" is concentrated variations of temple beauty. Before you get to the outlook points with a fantastic view to the surrounding Cambodian countryside outside Battambang.

Phnom Sampov is a cluster of hills northwest of Battambang city in the west of Cambodia. It takes about 30-40 minutes to get there from the city.

Walk up to the hill tops via the steep walkway or stairs or get a driver to drive you there. This hilltop is worth a visit either way.

But beware of the Macaque monkeys. These longtail Macaques are overly friendly because they expect to get, or steal, food from the visitors. Even if they are small animals, they are strong and can be ferocious.

There are several pagodas and temples on different sites in these hills.

Real Bat caves
Phnom Sampov is well known for the extensive caves under the hills. They each carry their own uses, cultural and religious significance and stories. Both of tradition, nature, happiness and deep tragedy.

By sunset, get down from the hills after some late afternoon shots of the warm sunset making the countryside soft and warm. Then, find a seat near the bat cave, and see thousands of bats leave for the nights hunt. The bat caves are near the entrance to the hills.

After seen the bats off, its time to go back to Battambang for the night. Enjoy food at one of the open-air restaurants near the river in the old French colonial city.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2021/04/21/top-gold-2/

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Just a nap in a restful and truly colourful place

The mountain of Phnom Sampov/Sampeau, “Ship Mountain”, outside Battambang is a collection of beautiful temples and monasteries in several variations. Located in several places in the mountains.

Add the many large caves, and Phnom Sampov represents a lot of Cambodian history, culture and nature. From the mythical parts to the more modern demanding.

In the east area of the mountain, a pagoda and stupa complex are surrounding the monastery at Wat Sampeou. From there it is several outlooks with a fantastic view to the surrounding Cambodian countryside.

And as the day even here gets hot, the smart one gets some rest. Surrounded by the paintings of the cultural heritage Cambodia is known for.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2021/04/21/top-gold-2/

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Old, steep steps at Preah Vihear

After the long stone layered access road from the mountain temple gate in the north, there is a steep step to enter the first temple building/Gopura.

As interesting as the building itself, is the construction and the decoration on the stairs.

The main steps are large and old stone fitted together like they were during building a thousand years ago. For every 3rd step, there is a sidestep suitable for a person or some decorative item.

This steep entrance step is only for the first temple building. After that, the rest of the 6 main buildings and support libraries are spread out on a relatively level ground. Stretching south to the steep cliff, were you find a fantastic view to the north of Cambodia.

Cambodian World Cultural Heritage
The name "Preah Vihear" comes from the Khmer words "Preah" (sacred) and "Vihear" (abode or shrine). The temple is also sometimes referred to as "Phnom Preah Vihear" (mountain of Preah Vihear).

The large temple complex was built during 250 years, starting over one thousand years ago. Several god kings of the Khmer Empire added to the buildings and site details.
It has been a Cambodian World Cultural Heritage site for nearly twenty years.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2021/04/20/a-drop-of-colour-and-a-drop-of-water-a-good/

#ប្រាសាទព្រះវិហារ #Preah #Vihear #Temple #preahvihear #Cambodia #Kampuchea #templevisit #buddhism #hinduism #angkor #art #architecture #bluesky #isaan #sisaket #water #well #worldculturalheritage #roadtrip #2019CE #colorful #colourful #culturalheritage #cambodia #ប្រាសាទព្រះវិហារ #PreahVihearTemple

An intricate entrance gate at Preah Vihear

In the north of Cambodia, on the mountain range bordering the Kingdom in the north, lays the levelled temple complex of Preah Vihear.

The details in the ornamentation on this temple is stunning. This gate to one of the four gopuras at this temple is an example.

The temple of Preah Vihear is dedicated to the god Shiva. The top lintel is often dedicated to showing symbols and rites connected to Shiva, but in almost equal amount to Vishnu.
It tells about the details in the religious practice over the 250 years the Angkor Empire built this temple complex.

The doors “enfilade”/side areas are rich with scenes from Khmer, Veda and Hindu mythology – like churning of the sea of milk, Khrishna Govardhan.

There are several compositions that is repeating in different variations at Preah Vihear. One example is built around a central motif, almost always a head of kala or lion, which develops into a symmetrical decoration.

Cambodian World Cultural Heritage
The name "Preah Vihear" comes from the Khmer words "Preah" (sacred) and "Vihear" (abode or shrine). The temple is also sometimes referred to as "Phnom Preah Vihear" (mountain of Preah Vihear).

The large temple complex was built over a period of 250 year, starting over one thousand years ago. Several god kings of the Khmer Empire added to the buildings and site details.

Preah Vihear has been a Cambodian World Cultural Heritage site for nearly twenty years.

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1224/

#ប្រាសាទព្រះវិហារ #Preah #Vihear #Temple #preahvihear #Cambodia #Kampuchea #templevisit #buddhism #hinduism #angkor #art #architecture #bluesky #isaan #sisaket #water #well #worldculturalheritage #roadtrip #2019CE #colorful #colourful #culturalheritage #cambodia #ប្រាសាទព្រះវិហារ #PreahVihearTemple