The white Phnom Bros pagoda

Between Kampong Cham and Kampong Thom in central Cambodia there is an interesting twin pagoda complex. It is very discreetly placed on the north side of the shortcut road between National Road 6 and National Road 7.

These two sites is situated peacefully on top of a lower hill and a taller hill with a view to rice paddocks and forest.

They are called Phnom Bros and Phnom Srey, or Men Hill and Women Hill.

The Men Hill is the lowest hill, and have the largest pagoda, a large protector statue and a monastery. It is easy available by car, too.

One kilometre to the north is a taller hill, the women hill with a smaller pagoda and some shrines.

The story related to these sites explains why the woman and her family are the one who finally decides on a proposal in Khmer culture.

Reasons for visit

The Phnom Bros is interesting not only for the temple buildings and monastery. It also includes a bunch of monkeys, cheeky, naughty and hungry macaques, and there are some cat families charming the visitors.

You will find some small stalls selling street food, and drinks. And there are some monks. Sometime the youngest of them would like to practice their English on visitors.

After been introduced to the origin story of the two temples, you may want to visit the Phnom Srey.


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“No food after midnight, no water, and stay away from bright light"

The monkeys at Phnom Bros temple are, like most temple monkeys throughout SEA, very used to humans. So much that they tend to be more domesticated than wild animals.

Cheeky troublemakers
These banana-crazed pig-tailed macaques are also quite the personalities, for good and bad. Keeping a distance, especially to their children, is highly recommended.

Unless you want trouble comparable to a mass attack of gremlins.

These monkeys are small, but they are strong and have sharp teeth. So, there is no use try picking a fight expecting to win.

Small gene pools
Another challenge for these monkeys is the few members in some of the local group. That is causing problems with inbreeding due to small gene pools.

First time I visited Phnom Bros there were some extreme examples of what happens when inbreeding Habsburger-style happens. To use a European example of what happens when science is lacking.

Three years later this inbreeding problem was mostly gone. And the monkey numbers were visibly larger. The Khmer caretakers of these animals are smarter than the Habsburgers. They make sure the monkeys are healthier, playing their part in these important cultural heritage sites.

I like that the monkeys also add some personality when visiting. Like the pose of Stripey here.

The Khmer female advantage
Phnom Bros and Phnom Srei are twin temples between Kampong Cham and Kampong Thom. They play an important role in the cultural history of Cambodia when it comes to engagements.

And why it is the man who must seek the lady and her family’s approval of engagement and marriage at the lady's home.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2021/04/27/the-brother-and-sister-pagodas-2/

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