The little village temple in 890s Hariharalaya

An early morning visit to the very old Prasat Trapeang Kaek ប្រាសាទត្រពាំងក្អែក with two oxen.

Prasat Trapeang Kaek, or O Ka-aek temple, is a single tower temple built in Hariharalaya. This was the second capital of Angkor Empire. O Ka-Aek was built 50 years before the capital was moved to the area near Angkor Thom.

O Ka-aek is part of the standalone temples in Roluos group. Probably it was built as a village temple. It is situated close to the old main dirt roads leading into the southern part of modern Siem Reap.

O Ka-aek is appx two kilometre west for Bakong Temple, the first large temple built in mountain style in the Khmer Empire.

Peace on the main old road
Since it is off track modern roads, O Ka-aek is rather peaceful and gives a chance to look closely on early architecture and art in the Angkor Empire. Even if the walls mostly have caved in, there are surprisingly well-kept stone art in the remaining structure. The north and south permanently closed gates have amazingly detailed carvings still.

The single tower temple is built in old Khmer Hindu style closely resemble development from the older Chenla style.
It is also on a nice green spot, meaning that the locals let animals graze around it. Two oxen were doing this on my visit, stopping only to study me study the O Ka-aek temple.

Getting here is easy by any vehicle or bike. It is a nice 18 km bike ride one way from Siem Reap. As the old road is gravel mostly, a mountain/terrain bike is advisable.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/11/10/a-green-small-spot-at-prasat-trapeang-kaek/

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Inside this great collection of green is the remains of one of the oldest temples in Angkor Park

A colourful memory from that time I had lunch near Prasat Kôk Svay Pream. I had visited four temples in old Hariharalaya/Roluos group covering 400 years of architecture. Finally found this well covered, very old pre-Khmer empire temple site.

Nearly a 100 year older than Khmer Empire
Prasat Kôk Svay Pream, ប្រាសាទគោកស្វាយព្រាហ្មណ៍ in Khmer, is mostly covered by vegetation.

Only some small remains of a brick wall, an entrance gate and a lingam basin are relatively easy to be found. In front there of this is an entrance platform facing eastwards. The thick growth of green trees, palms and thick foliage including thorn bushes covers the rest of the site. It looks like it has been a moat of sort around the elevated area where this temple remains are.

When Prasat Kôk Svay Pream first was rediscovered, three lintels where found. They show the bridging of architecture and design from Sambor Prei Kouk of Chenla kingdom to Prei Khmeng and Kulen of early Khmer during the 700s CE.

The Chenla kingdom was the last Khmer kingdom before the Khmer empire was declared in 802 CE. Its capital was near Kampong Thom.

It is a nice and peaceful place, and not a lot of visitors. Or locals. Some friendly cows, though. Always lovely with something bovine out in the countryside.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/09/20/lunch-at-prasat-kok-svay-pream/

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Modern colourful Lolei pagoda

The original, classic Khmer temple Prasat Lolei was placed on an island in an artificial water basin. It was the royal family temple in Hariharalaya. That was the last capital outside what we now recognise as the core Angkor Archaeological Park area around Angkor Thom north of Siem Reap.

The water is gone, but the four old temple towers are still there. Around the old temple grounds, a modern Buddhist monastery was built and still operating.

A modern Wat and Temple
The monks here were quite interested in talking to visitors, seeking information and some of them loved to practice their English. And some German too, come to that.

This photo is from inside the modern Buddhist temple, which is among the heaviest colourful temples I have seen in the Siem Reap area. But it is also very open to the sun light, making it a place of worship filled with light and colours.

I like religious buildings with this sort of character.

Under a hundred meter away, the 1100 years older holy towers connect the old and new continuous cultural history and heritage of Cambodia.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/10/10/prasat-lolei/

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Royal honour to the grandparents

Prasat Lolei, ប្រាសាទលលៃ, is the northernmost temple in the old capital of the Khmer empire Hariharalaya. Finished in 893CE, the temple group of four towers was dedicated to Shiva and to members of the royal family by king Yasovarman I.

The two tall brick temple towers were built in honour of the king’s grandparents. The two lower towers were for his parents. King Yasovarman I was not a big fan of his father’s plans of succession. He ended up making his own succession line and legitimized right to the throne via his grandmother’s family.

Last larger Hindu temple built in Hariharalaya
It was originally a temple on an island in a now dried out water reservoir called Indratataka Baray. This was the first Baray of many built by the imperial god kings of Angkor. A temple on an island surrounded by water is probably meant to symbolise Mount Meru, home of the gods in the Hindu pantheon.

Back then it was an Ashram nearby, today there is a modern pagoda and a monastery surrounding the classic site. The interior of the modern pagoda is worth a closer look.

This was the last large temple build by the god kings in Hariharalaya. Yasovarman I later moved the capital to Yaśodharapura centred around Phnom Bakheng, near Angkor Thom/Nokor Thom as it is known today.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2021/04/06/the-modern-prasat-lolei-a-colorful-cultural/

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Sunrise greeting at the first grand temple of the Khmer Empire

Mornings are the most pleasant time to visit Bakong Temple. The large stone temple gets very hot later in the day.
Bakong was the first mountain type of temple architecture design in the Khmer imperial era. It served as a state temple for king Indravarman I, in the first dedicated Khmer imperial capital at Hariharalaya.
Today this is the Roluos Group of temples east of Siem Reap City, Cambodia. Other well-known temples here is Preah Koh and Lolei.

Large Hindu influence
The temple was dedicated to Shiva, and its main consecrated image was a lingam called Sri Indresvara. This step pyramid mountain temple draws inspiration from other large Hindu temples in the region built around the same time. Most notably the fantastic Borobudur temple in Java, outside Yogyakarta.
Bakong temple was the last large construction in Hariharalaya. Indravarman’s son and heir Yasovarman I moved the capital to Phnom Bakheng in the early 900s. Bakheng Hill is just south of what we today call Angkor Thom, the big (capital) city.

For those interested in comparative historical timeline, this temple was finished as a state temple in 881CE. In Norway, the first unification of the kingdom under one superior king established the first larger Nordic kingdom.

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Food and drinks offering at Chheng Meng, Tomb Sweeping Day

Tomb Sweeping Day, “Chheng Meng” in Khmer, is a festival to honour the ancestors. The festival is of Chinese origin. Qingming is celebrated in Cambodia among the Chinese exodus, and among Khmer with intermarriage or with other strong relations to Chinese culture.
It is a celebration of spring, by honouring and remember the ancestors by cleaning and decorate their graves, pray and bring offerings of food and drink, money and high value items.
After the rites and cleaning of the graves, the Khmer family gathers for food, drinks and celebrating family, friends and neighbours at one of the family members houses. It is always a great honour to be invited to attend.

https://www.khmertimeskh.com/501266506/families-gather-at-cemeteries-for-tomb-sweeping-day/

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That time I had lunch near Prasat Kôk Svay Pream, one of the oldest temples in Angkor area

This temple was probably built nearly a 100 year before the Khmer Empire was proclaimed in 802 CE.

Only some small remains of a brick wall, an entrance gate and a lingam basin are relatively easy to be found on an eastern platform.

The rest is covered by thick growth of green trees, palms and thick foliage including thorn bushes.

#angkor #visitsiemreap #hariharalaya #roluosgroup