Pointing out a treasure at mysterious West Prasat Top

Exploring Angkor Park is best in the early hours of the day. The temperature is pleasant, and the light is playful and challenging.

This little temple is one of the hidden treasures near the beaten track. But atill several hundred meters off it, by bike or walk.

This morning the sun pointed out a spot to the northeast. I did not find gold, but the remain of an old guardian statue.
A good start for a peaceful visit and some reflections on this small spot in ancient times.

Small mystery
West Prasat Top is in the area where you find several larger temples like Ta Keo, Ta Nei and Ta Prohm. They are all on the east side of Siem Reap River, a couple of kilometres away from the Victory Gate and Angkor Thom. It is close to Don Mao, another small temple near one of the old East Baray docks.

But the current single tower is of post Bayon style. Meaning it was built sometimes after 1200. And the stones used to build this temple may have been reused from older structures.

This is a mysterious temple not only for confusions regarding its origin. Some of the information about this temple mixes it up with the West Top Temple in Angkor Thom.

West Prasat Top’s tower was built on a laterite platform. The pink-sandstone columns and lintels contain some decorations from the 1100s. There are visible remains of stairs leading up to the temple both to the east and west. Parts of an enclosing wall are still there, and more fragments of statues and other carvings.

The tower itself was overgrown when I visited, but recently excavations and renovations has cleared it and cleaned it, and West Prasat Top is pretty in pink today.

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Just a morning moment by Srah Srang Baray

This is one of the spots in Siem Reap good for both sunrise and sunset moments. The sunrise spot here is the laterite docks in front of the Banteay Kdei temple. From the docks to the temple gate there is a short walk.

Prasat Banteay Kdei, translated as ‘A Citadel of Chambers', but also known as "Citadel of Monks' cells” was built around 1200 CE. It was built a Buddhist temple during the reign on Jayavarman VII, the great god King himself being a Buddhist.
It is quite similar in design as the nearby more famous Ta Prohm. But more compact and with a lower profile.

It is one of the temples in Angkor that has been more or less in constant use from its construction up until modern times.

Visit Banteay Kdei is a suitable activity after enjoying the sunrise, and maybe a snack, drink or even breakfast nearby.

Joy and love sunset
The sunset is both pretty and peaceful from the other side. This is a popular spot for locals to enjoy sunset. Very often young couples meet here.

Srah Srang and Banteay Kdei are in the T-crossing where the roads for the small circle and grand circle meets. These circles are the recommended first visitors’ routes for the core Angkor Temples. Along the reservoir and temple on its north and southwest side there are a lot of cafes, restaurants and street food stalls. Snacks and drinks are sold until past sunset.

Srah Srang Baray measures 700 by 350 meter. There is a platform in the centre of the Baray, meaning there might have been a larger temple there originally. Now there is a small tower with a spire showing that location.

Srah Srang was modified by Jayavarman VII around 1200 CE. Partly to make it able to compensate for the failing East Baray reservoir. And to support the design of Banteay Kdei.

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Sunset, rays and clouds over top rice

Sunsets are interesting phenomena. Like when the sun making out with a particular wild cloud before setting for the night.
Not exactly the calming mood sunsets from the clichés.
The soothing part here are the rice fields, full of green plants growing to be delicious rice.

Top notch rice
Cambodia is said to have several hundred, even thousands, types of rice. Often changing main type from one village to the next.

Rice from Cambodia is in the top tier every time rice experts taste where in the world the best rice is grown. Like they did last year.

The upside being in the Kingdom is not only the great produce and the delicious variations of food and dishes. The good thing is the fragrance and taste of Cambodian rice make for a quick meal or a snack. All you need is a bowl of freshly steamed local rice. And a drop or three of your favourite condiment sauce. Or sauces. And some fresh chilli.

It is chhnang ឆ្ងាញ់ៗ – delicious – all by itself!

https://www.irri.org/where-we-work/countries/cambodia

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Liquid gold poured by a warm sunset

People loving scenic sunsets will enjoy every evening in Siem Reap, Cambodia, too. And they will have a new spot every afternoon. These spots are both inside and outside Angkor Arhcaeological Park. And when taking in the sunset experience, you can eat well and enjoy refreshments from stalls nearby.

This shot was taken near the West Baray, បារាយណ៍ខាងលិច, the gigantic manmade water reservoir from the middle of the Khmer Angkor imperial era. Nearly 900 years after its completion it still plays a vital role in water and flood management for the Angkor Archaeological Park, Siem Reap city and the surrounding farmland.

The West Baray are used by locals and visitors alike, for leisure, bathing, boating, fishing and visit to the West Mebon temple on the artificial island in the Baray.

Built for the ages
Measuring appx 7.8 times 2.1-kilometre, West Baray is not a dugout. It is built with human made earthen dikes, with a height of 11,9 meters. The maximum capacity is 53 million m³ water. These 53 billion litres equal 14 billion gallons of water in medieval measurements.

It was finished appx 1066 CE, the same year England was conquered by the Norse rulers of Normandy.

West Baray is 12 kilometres from Central Siem Reap, mostly on flat, well-maintained roads. Easy to get to by tuktuk or car, or a nice, brisk bike ride morning or afternoon.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/09/01/golden-sunset-near-west-mebon/

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Visit to an impressing off the main track citadel temple

Banteay Thom, the big (Thom) Citadel (Banteay), is 10 km north of Angkor Wat and 15 km out Siem Reap City limits. It is accessible by motorbike or a proper bike only.

This temple was built during the rule of Jayavarman VII "the Great" in early 1200s CE. There is one main entrance to the east, and a gate blockaded by debris to the west. Remains of a moat surrounds the old temple.

As a temple built by a mighty god king, it is of stately qualities including some very advanced arts and stone carvings.
After the anteroom and Gopuras, the main three towers are of impressive sizes. But in some need of restoration.

Being outside the main Angkor Park area, there is no need for an Angkor temple pass to visit. It is a truly quiet place with spots and details to study closely, without the queueing and crowds in the more famous temple from JVIIs reign.
Unfortunately, its solitude location means that the temple has been a target for looting into quite recent times.

Banteay Thom is surrounded by rice fields. Visiting during harvest season means meeting and surprise a lot of locals tending to their fields. Including the field where the young Khmer works, where you can listen to the latest in Khmer pop music.

That is not a bad thing. Kh-pop is patent, modern pop worth listen to. And makes a nice cultural contrast to the old Archaeological structure.

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The little village temple in 890s Hariharalaya

An early morning visit to the very old Prasat Trapeang Kaek ប្រាសាទត្រពាំងក្អែក with two oxen.

Prasat Trapeang Kaek, or O Ka-aek temple, is a single tower temple built in Hariharalaya. This was the second capital of Angkor Empire. O Ka-Aek was built 50 years before the capital was moved to the area near Angkor Thom.

O Ka-aek is part of the standalone temples in Roluos group. Probably it was built as a village temple. It is situated close to the old main dirt roads leading into the southern part of modern Siem Reap.

O Ka-aek is appx two kilometre west for Bakong Temple, the first large temple built in mountain style in the Khmer Empire.

Peace on the main old road
Since it is off track modern roads, O Ka-aek is rather peaceful and gives a chance to look closely on early architecture and art in the Angkor Empire. Even if the walls mostly have caved in, there are surprisingly well-kept stone art in the remaining structure. The north and south permanently closed gates have amazingly detailed carvings still.

The single tower temple is built in old Khmer Hindu style closely resemble development from the older Chenla style.
It is also on a nice green spot, meaning that the locals let animals graze around it. Two oxen were doing this on my visit, stopping only to study me study the O Ka-aek temple.

Getting here is easy by any vehicle or bike. It is a nice 18 km bike ride one way from Siem Reap. As the old road is gravel mostly, a mountain/terrain bike is advisable.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/11/10/a-green-small-spot-at-prasat-trapeang-kaek/

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Inside this great collection of green is the remains of one of the oldest temples in Angkor Park

A colourful memory from that time I had lunch near Prasat Kôk Svay Pream. I had visited four temples in old Hariharalaya/Roluos group covering 400 years of architecture. Finally found this well covered, very old pre-Khmer empire temple site.

Nearly a 100 year older than Khmer Empire
Prasat Kôk Svay Pream, ប្រាសាទគោកស្វាយព្រាហ្មណ៍ in Khmer, is mostly covered by vegetation.

Only some small remains of a brick wall, an entrance gate and a lingam basin are relatively easy to be found. In front there of this is an entrance platform facing eastwards. The thick growth of green trees, palms and thick foliage including thorn bushes covers the rest of the site. It looks like it has been a moat of sort around the elevated area where this temple remains are.

When Prasat Kôk Svay Pream first was rediscovered, three lintels where found. They show the bridging of architecture and design from Sambor Prei Kouk of Chenla kingdom to Prei Khmeng and Kulen of early Khmer during the 700s CE.

The Chenla kingdom was the last Khmer kingdom before the Khmer empire was declared in 802 CE. Its capital was near Kampong Thom.

It is a nice and peaceful place, and not a lot of visitors. Or locals. Some friendly cows, though. Always lovely with something bovine out in the countryside.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/09/20/lunch-at-prasat-kok-svay-pream/

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A quiet morning at the hospital temple Prei Prasat Ta Oun Temple

This is one of those temples that literally is off the beaten track. The only access is via a narrow bike trail, on the side of farmland with grazing cows. The trail gets very muddy in green season.
Localised well north of Angkor Thom, this temple was built in late 12th century. It is one of the over 100 hospital temples built during the reign of the great Khmer king Jayavarman VII. More known for his state temple Bayon with what is considered his portrait being repeated all over its façade.

Hospital temples were temples connected to a nearby public hospital. It was used for prayer, rites, offerings and probably as part of the therapy. It was an early example of public healthcare system built in scale. It shows how advanced and rich the Angkor empire was at its peak 450 years into its existence.

Compact and peaceful
It is not a large site, but it is one of the best kept examples of these hospital-temples built in Bayon style. Even the moat surrounding Ta Oun is in relatively good order. But it dries up during the hot season.

There are remains of a Gopura and a Library to the east of the main temple, and a smaller gate to the west. There are no remains of the hospital itself.

It is worth a visit not only for the insights into an important part of Khmer imperial history. Ta Oun is well off the main visitor’s area, is peaceful and often without any other visitors.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2025/02/16/ta-oun-temple/

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The mirror pond at Neak Poan temple

A morning bike to Neak Pean/Neak Poan (Khmer: ប្រាសាទនាគព័ន្ធ, “the entwined serpents”) is a fresh morning bike trip. The main temple tower dedicated to Avalokitesvara is this one in the mirror pond is worth the trip itself.

Neak Pean was built as a retreat and healing place at an artificial island. This island was put in the centre of a man made Baray/lake and water-reservoir.

In memory and honour of Dad
The surrounding Jayatataka Baray lays due east of the Preah Khan temple. This is the large temple complex J7 built in honour of his father.

Jayavarman VII had clear visions as mighty ruler of the Khmer Empire. This was the most beautiful of the more than 110 hospitals he initiated build for his people all over the core parts of his Empire. It is an architectural and water engineering marvel. Placed close by the large temple built in memory of his dad.

Tips for visits
Neak Pean is normally part of the Grand Circuit Tours of Angkor Park. It should be visited early after sunrise, before the soft breeze of the day breaks up the internal mirror pond tranquillity.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/12/25/neak-poan-hospital-temple-for-peace-of-mind/

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