A bad frog day: Trade my pet for your camera, sir?

This young gentleman follow me around while I was visiting Preah Ko in Roluos the first time. After figuring out I was friendly, and being fascinated by my camera, he was offering a trade.

I had much more need of my camera than a highly annoyed frog, so I declined. He wasn’t that pleased, but his mom come over, preventing a possible meltdown.

Sometimes the care and maintenance crew from the Apsara authority bring their kids to work at the Angkor sites. Earlier it was common to use this as an opportunity to learn some English for the children, but instances of begging and worse has reduced this kind of contact in several of the sites.

Maintenance of the first temple
Preah Ko was the first Royal temple in the first larger Angkor capital Hariharalaya, appx 20 kilometre south-east of the more famous Angkor Thom city and Angkor Wat temple. The “bull temple” was honouring the Hindu deity Shiva, and was consecrated in 879 CE.

Three kneeling bull statues are in front of the main five buildings, and Ko/Go is a Khmer word for bull. Funny enough, “Ko” is the Danish word for cow, in Norwegian the word is “ku”. Making it easy for northerners to remember the name of this six tower temple.

For anyone interesting in parallel historic timelines, 878 CE was the year of the first unification of the kingdom of Norway under one king. This was the first kingdom in what would become the three kingdoms of Scandinavia today. Denmark got unified in 935, and Sweden a couple hundred years later.


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The real heroes of Angkor Park

Early morning at by the moat of Angkor Wat. This Apsara maintenance crew is doing the vital cleaning of the moat.

This moat is a 1.5 km by 1.3 km rectangle, with a width between 190 to 200 meters. The max depth is 4 meters. It is enclosing the whole Angkor Wat and symbolizes the cosmic oceans surrounding the Hindu god’s home.

It provides a crucial foundational stability for the largest religious monuments in the world. The old Khmer excelled in hydraulic engineering, and the old Angkor core capital was a hydraulic city. Angkor Wat was built at the midpoint of the 630 years of the Khmer Empire. The construction clearly demonstrates how advance their technology and engineering had advanced.

Modern heroes
This is a small shoutout to the modern heroes of Angkor; the largest part of the approximately 3000 staff that maintains, secure and restore this world cultural heritage.

It is a monumental task, pun intended. The Angkor Archaeological Park is about 420 sq. kilometres large. There are over 70 larger temple sites, and more than 1000 smaller sites and remains in the extended park.

The Apsara (Authority for the Protection of the Site and Management of the Region of Angkor) is the organisation established to run this task. You meet them first at the Angkor ticket office, but that is only one of the 15 departments.

Say hi, please
First time I visited, the ticket office was a small shack in the middle of thick jungle. Now it is a stately building with all the facilities needed to cater to thousands of tourists a day.

And then you have these maintenance guys working everywhere.

Remember to greet them with a smile and maybe a Sampeah greeting when you meet them.

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Just a morning moment by Srah Srang Baray

This is one of the spots in Siem Reap good for both sunrise and sunset moments. The sunrise spot here is the laterite docks in front of the Banteay Kdei temple. From the docks to the temple gate there is a short walk.

Prasat Banteay Kdei, translated as ‘A Citadel of Chambers', but also known as "Citadel of Monks' cells” was built around 1200 CE. It was built a Buddhist temple during the reign on Jayavarman VII, the great god King himself being a Buddhist.
It is quite similar in design as the nearby more famous Ta Prohm. But more compact and with a lower profile.

It is one of the temples in Angkor that has been more or less in constant use from its construction up until modern times.

Visit Banteay Kdei is a suitable activity after enjoying the sunrise, and maybe a snack, drink or even breakfast nearby.

Joy and love sunset
The sunset is both pretty and peaceful from the other side. This is a popular spot for locals to enjoy sunset. Very often young couples meet here.

Srah Srang and Banteay Kdei are in the T-crossing where the roads for the small circle and grand circle meets. These circles are the recommended first visitors’ routes for the core Angkor Temples. Along the reservoir and temple on its north and southwest side there are a lot of cafes, restaurants and street food stalls. Snacks and drinks are sold until past sunset.

Srah Srang Baray measures 700 by 350 meter. There is a platform in the centre of the Baray, meaning there might have been a larger temple there originally. Now there is a small tower with a spire showing that location.

Srah Srang was modified by Jayavarman VII around 1200 CE. Partly to make it able to compensate for the failing East Baray reservoir. And to support the design of Banteay Kdei.

#2019CE #ancient #angkor #angkorpark #architecture #art #biking #bluesky #buddhism #Cambodia #citylife #greentourism #khmer #banteaykdei #visitsiemreap #srahsrang #visitcambodia #worldculturalheritage

A quiet morning at the hospital temple Prei Prasat Ta Oun Temple

This is one of those temples that literally is off the beaten track. The only access is via a narrow bike trail, on the side of farmland with grazing cows. The trail gets very muddy in green season.
Localised well north of Angkor Thom, this temple was built in late 12th century. It is one of the over 100 hospital temples built during the reign of the great Khmer king Jayavarman VII. More known for his state temple Bayon with what is considered his portrait being repeated all over its façade.

Hospital temples were temples connected to a nearby public hospital. It was used for prayer, rites, offerings and probably as part of the therapy. It was an early example of public healthcare system built in scale. It shows how advanced and rich the Angkor empire was at its peak 450 years into its existence.

Compact and peaceful
It is not a large site, but it is one of the best kept examples of these hospital-temples built in Bayon style. Even the moat surrounding Ta Oun is in relatively good order. But it dries up during the hot season.

There are remains of a Gopura and a Library to the east of the main temple, and a smaller gate to the west. There are no remains of the hospital itself.

It is worth a visit not only for the insights into an important part of Khmer imperial history. Ta Oun is well off the main visitor’s area, is peaceful and often without any other visitors.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2025/02/16/ta-oun-temple/

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The mirror pond at Neak Poan temple

A morning bike to Neak Pean/Neak Poan (Khmer: ប្រាសាទនាគព័ន្ធ, “the entwined serpents”) is a fresh morning bike trip. The main temple tower dedicated to Avalokitesvara is this one in the mirror pond is worth the trip itself.

Neak Pean was built as a retreat and healing place at an artificial island. This island was put in the centre of a man made Baray/lake and water-reservoir.

In memory and honour of Dad
The surrounding Jayatataka Baray lays due east of the Preah Khan temple. This is the large temple complex J7 built in honour of his father.

Jayavarman VII had clear visions as mighty ruler of the Khmer Empire. This was the most beautiful of the more than 110 hospitals he initiated build for his people all over the core parts of his Empire. It is an architectural and water engineering marvel. Placed close by the large temple built in memory of his dad.

Tips for visits
Neak Pean is normally part of the Grand Circuit Tours of Angkor Park. It should be visited early after sunrise, before the soft breeze of the day breaks up the internal mirror pond tranquillity.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/12/25/neak-poan-hospital-temple-for-peace-of-mind/

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Morning at the West terrace and docks of the East Baray

The East Baray was a water reservoir built early in the Khmer Empire after the relocation of the capital to modern day Angkor Thom.

Today Yasodharatataka, East Baray in Khmer, is a dried-out water basin. It is mostly taken over by the jungle but with some rice paddocks and vegetable and fruit farming.

Slightly smaller than the still existing and large man-made construction West Baray, East Baray was 2 km wide and 7 km long. With a depth of 3 meter, it contained 50 million cubic meters of water.
East Baray is due east of Victory gate and the Elephant terrace in front of the Royal Palace of Angkor Thom. The docks and terrace on the West side is the remains of the important entrance to the west, close to the core area of the Khmer Imperial Capital. Its importance can be traced by the complexity of the docs, and the lion guards and statue remain. It is placed well into the jungle, and not very often visited. Fresh excavations are being done on a hospital temple nearby.

This photo is taken at nearing the end of the peak of green season, when the sun getting stronger and the wet spell are fewer. The green season in visible in how green vegetation and moss are covering and highlighting the remains of buildings, stairs and docks. The area in between is more neutral.

For most visitors, photogs or not, some downpours are good when visiting an area filled with natural and cultural marvels like the Angkor Park:

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/cambodia/temples-of-angkor/attractions/eastern-baray/a/poi-sig/1571818/1002179

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Greenlight the best time to visit Cambodia

Sometimes it is nice enjoying the rain cleaning up the air and colours in Angkor Thom. Sitting in a comfortable shelter with other visitors and staff is a sociable affair, too.

Green season in Cambodia starts in June/July and reaches its peak in September/October. Planning to visit during the summer in Europe, or when the Autumn is at its darkest and coldest in the northern hemisphere, those are the best time to enjoy Cambodia.

And to visit the architecture and art from the ancient Khmer empire.

The afternoon rainfalls are short, and they freshest the air and cools down the temperature. And they make everything grow healthy green. Including shrouding the ancient temples and imperial sites in green, softening the outline and enhancing the contrasts.

Making the photography conditions are excellent, the temperature is awesome, the crowds are small, and the cost of food, drinks and accommodation are as pleasant as ever.

For those who enjoys other senses as much, they can look forward to the fresh scent after a shower has cleaned the air, and the fragrance of green nature in it growing season. And the aroma of delicious food made from fresh vegetables and fruit. The sound of birds and insects wakening after a fresh spell is part of natural wonder. And the sound of different sort of monsoon is something to ponder.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/01/01/embracing-the-rain-visiting-angkor-park/

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Green season morning in Angkor Park

Prasat Top Khang Kaeut (Eastern Prasat Top) temple is a small Hindu temple with several images of the Hindu God Vishnu. The temple is mostly unvisited and very peaceful. The vegetation makes for some stunning photo opportunities during the green season.

The vegetation has taken over most of the surroundings. During green season it gets extraordinary for photos, with deep, green moss and fresh green all around the still very visible temple.

Religious tolerance in the Khmer Empire
Top Khang Kaeut was built during the reign of Jayavarman VII, the great Buddhist god king, and was initiated in 1295CE. It was dedicated in honour of Mangalartha, a son of a Hindu Brahmin priest/guru kept in high regard by the great king. That gives a glimpse into the religious tolerance and transformation of the Empire into Buddhism as the main religion.

This is the last significant Hindu Temple built in the Khmer Empire before the major change to Buddhism as state religion.

Pleasant green season
The Green season in Cambodia starts in June/July and reaches its peak in September/October. To visit during this time period are among the best time slots to enjoy modern Cambodia.

The afternoon rainfalls are short, and they freshen up the air and chills the temperature. And they make everything grow healthy green.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/05/15/the-secret-temple-in-angkor-thom/

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Srah Srang, the dual peaceful sunspot

An October morning bike return to Siem Reap via Srah Srang reservoir. Peaceful and far from crowdy are the qualities of this place in Angkor Park. It carried the promise of a nice, sunny day after the green season.

The Srah Srang reservoir, meaning ស្រះស្រង់, "Royal Bath", is one of those spots deserving a couple of visits. Like in the morning and in the evening. It is a place both to enjoy sunrise and sunset.

Along the reservoir on its north and southwest side there are a lot of cafes, restaurant and street food stalls. Open for both breakfast, lunch and dinner. Or for snacks and coffee breaks.

In the northwest corner, the two main routes of sightseeing of the core Angkor Park meets. This is the Angkor Park small circle of Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Keo and Ta Prohm temples. And the Grand Circle of Angkor Thom, Royal Palace/Leper King, Preah Khan, Neak Poan, Ta Som, East Mebon and Pre Rup.

Today Srah Srang measures 700 by 350 meter. There is a platform in the centre of the Baray, meaning there might have been a larger temple there originally. Now there is a small tower with a spire showing that location.

This reservoir and its small temple were supervised built by the only known Khmer imperial architect by name, minister and guru Kavindrarimathana to the King Rajendravarman II in approximately 950 CE. He is accepted as the main architect behind East Mebon Temple, Prasat Bat Chum and probably the first architect designing Pre Rup Temple.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2025/06/15/srah-srang-the-dual-peaceful-sun-spot/

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