The white Phnom Bros pagoda

Between Kampong Cham and Kampong Thom in central Cambodia there is an interesting twin pagoda complex. It is very discreetly placed on the north side of the shortcut road between National Road 6 and National Road 7.

These two sites is situated peacefully on top of a lower hill and a taller hill with a view to rice paddocks and forest.

They are called Phnom Bros and Phnom Srey, or Men Hill and Women Hill.

The Men Hill is the lowest hill, and have the largest pagoda, a large protector statue and a monastery. It is easy available by car, too.

One kilometre to the north is a taller hill, the women hill with a smaller pagoda and some shrines.

The story related to these sites explains why the woman and her family are the one who finally decides on a proposal in Khmer culture.

Reasons for visit

The Phnom Bros is interesting not only for the temple buildings and monastery. It also includes a bunch of monkeys, cheeky, naughty and hungry macaques, and there are some cat families charming the visitors.

You will find some small stalls selling street food, and drinks. And there are some monks. Sometime the youngest of them would like to practice their English on visitors.

After been introduced to the origin story of the two temples, you may want to visit the Phnom Srey.


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“No food after midnight, no water, and stay away from bright light"

The monkeys at Phnom Bros temple are, like most temple monkeys throughout SEA, very used to humans. So much that they tend to be more domesticated than wild animals.

Cheeky troublemakers
These banana-crazed pig-tailed macaques are also quite the personalities, for good and bad. Keeping a distance, especially to their children, is highly recommended.

Unless you want trouble comparable to a mass attack of gremlins.

These monkeys are small, but they are strong and have sharp teeth. So, there is no use try picking a fight expecting to win.

Small gene pools
Another challenge for these monkeys is the few members in some of the local group. That is causing problems with inbreeding due to small gene pools.

First time I visited Phnom Bros there were some extreme examples of what happens when inbreeding Habsburger-style happens. To use a European example of what happens when science is lacking.

Three years later this inbreeding problem was mostly gone. And the monkey numbers were visibly larger. The Khmer caretakers of these animals are smarter than the Habsburgers. They make sure the monkeys are healthier, playing their part in these important cultural heritage sites.

I like that the monkeys also add some personality when visiting. Like the pose of Stripey here.

The Khmer female advantage
Phnom Bros and Phnom Srei are twin temples between Kampong Cham and Kampong Thom. They play an important role in the cultural history of Cambodia when it comes to engagements.

And why it is the man who must seek the lady and her family’s approval of engagement and marriage at the lady's home.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2021/04/27/the-brother-and-sister-pagodas-2/

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Common heritage framed by trees

Framed by trees and jungle, the Sâmbor Prey Kŭh temples of pre-Angkor Chenla kingdom was added to our common World Cultural Heritage list in 2017.

I visited this site and took this photo the year before this admittance, in the end of December 2016.

The bridge city near the river city Kampong Thom
North of the Kampong Thom city area the Sambor Prei Kouk complex marks the old capital Isanapura of the Chenla civilization.

The Funan state was a loosely organized confederation of cities and lesser kingdoms with large population centres and advanced technology. It was established around the start of current Common Era and lasted about 500 years, covering most of today’s Cambodia and Thailand, Southern Viet Nam, and northern part of Malaysia.

Establishing the Chenla kingdom marks the rapid development of architecture, culture and society building into a unified centralised kingdom and culture. This led into the foundations of the Angkor era. The Chenla kings increased their power north into today’s Laos and close to Burma.

The Chenla capital city Isanapura (Khmer: ឦសានបុរៈ – Isan Borak) was the core city of pre-Khmer Empire for 250 years, between 550 and 800 CE. The first writings in the Khmer alphabet are found here, marking a continuous written culture lasting up to modern times.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sambor_Prei_Kuk

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Sunset over the great port city

The province capital of Kampong Thom province is a nice stop halfway between Phnom Penh and Siem Reab. Over the years, the city has developed in a rapid tempo, and I find it more and more interesting to visit to check on the progress.
Cradle of the Khmer Empire
The area was an important capital in the pre-Khmer era, when the Funan culture and later the capital of the Chenla Kingdom lay down the basis for the great Angkor Empire.
Today it is a logical place to stay for the surrounding cultural and historic sites, including the UNESCO heritage site Prasat Sambor Prei Kouk. This was the state temples for Chenla Kingdom from 500 to 800 CE.
A hub for communication
The buses running from the capital via National Road 6 to Siem Reap and on to the Thai border often stops here. There are lodgings available from high end to hostels, markets, shops, restaurants and cafés.
Including a couple of really nice breakfast places, traditional or modern.
Notable sites are the city centre roundabout with the Independence monument, and the elephant statues fighting two tigers. On the north side of the river lays a large, see worthy pagoda.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kampong_Thom_city

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