The midway surprise Prasat Rorng Ramong

An early morning at Prasat Rorng Ramong. This small temple remain alone off the main road between Angkor Wat and the south moat of Angkor Thom. Enclosed by a narrow road and mostly hidden by trees. It may look insignificant and small, but it is larger than the entry track suggest. And well worth a closer look.

The temple has many names. Prasat Rorng Ramong, Rong Lmong, ប្រាសាទរោងរមុង and Rung Lmong. It is a Hindu temple not far from the entrance to the hill temple Phnom Bakheng.

It is built in the same style as Phnom Bakheng temple, with one tower foundation and walls in good condition, remains of a second tower but no traces of what was probably a third tower.

A small laterite causeway leads eastwards from the main remains. There are reported traces of a small moat around the temple, but it is dried out and most traces of it has disappeared.

A glimpse of the early, old capital
Rorng Ramong was built during the reign of Yasovarman I, the great king that moved the Khmer imperial capital from Hariharalaya. The god king/emperor founded the Yaśodharapura capital city near today’s Nokor Thom/Angkor Thom. This third Khmer imperial capital was centred on Bakheng Hill, in the early 900s CE.

This temple is significant because it gives a good idea of how these early temples was planned and build into the city structure.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2025/05/15/the-midway-surprise-prasat-rorng-ramong/

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At the root of the Chenla kingdom

The three distinct Sambor Prei Kouk temple sites is an important archaeological area. The complex is just north of today’s Kampong Thom city in central Cambodia. It shows the bridging development from the Funan Civilisation into the Angkor Khmer Empire.

These temples were state temples in the old capital Isanapura of the Chenla kingdom.

The Funan state was a loosely organized confederation of cities and lesser kingdoms with large population centres and advanced technology. It was established about 2000 years ago and lasted for about 500 years. Funan covered southern part of today’s Cambodia, Viet Nam, Thailand and northern part of Malaysia.

The Chenla kingdom marks the rapid development of architecture, culture and society building into a unified centralised kingdom and culture. The Chenla kings reach north into today’s Laos, Isaan and Burma.

Isanapura was the core city of this pre-Angkor kingdom for 250 years, between 550 and 800 CE. The first writings in Khmer are found here, marking a continuous writing culture lasting into modern times.

By the end of the Chenla Kingdom unrest and pressure from outside slowly weakened and destabilized the realm. In northwest the Angkor Khmer Empire was declared in 802 CE to finally replace the Khmer Chenla Kingdom.

The Isanapura area is beautiful, with its fauna and flora adding to the experience. In 2017 Sambor Prei Kouk was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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Inside this great collection of green is the remains of one of the oldest temples in Angkor Park

A colourful memory from that time I had lunch near Prasat Kôk Svay Pream. I had visited four temples in old Hariharalaya/Roluos group covering 400 years of architecture. Finally found this well covered, very old pre-Khmer empire temple site.

Nearly a 100 year older than Khmer Empire
Prasat Kôk Svay Pream, ប្រាសាទគោកស្វាយព្រាហ្មណ៍ in Khmer, is mostly covered by vegetation.

Only some small remains of a brick wall, an entrance gate and a lingam basin are relatively easy to be found. In front there of this is an entrance platform facing eastwards. The thick growth of green trees, palms and thick foliage including thorn bushes covers the rest of the site. It looks like it has been a moat of sort around the elevated area where this temple remains are.

When Prasat Kôk Svay Pream first was rediscovered, three lintels where found. They show the bridging of architecture and design from Sambor Prei Kouk of Chenla kingdom to Prei Khmeng and Kulen of early Khmer during the 700s CE.

The Chenla kingdom was the last Khmer kingdom before the Khmer empire was declared in 802 CE. Its capital was near Kampong Thom.

It is a nice and peaceful place, and not a lot of visitors. Or locals. Some friendly cows, though. Always lovely with something bovine out in the countryside.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/09/20/lunch-at-prasat-kok-svay-pream/

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The mirror pond at Neak Poan temple

A morning bike to Neak Pean/Neak Poan (Khmer: ប្រាសាទនាគព័ន្ធ, “the entwined serpents”) is a fresh morning bike trip. The main temple tower dedicated to Avalokitesvara is this one in the mirror pond is worth the trip itself.

Neak Pean was built as a retreat and healing place at an artificial island. This island was put in the centre of a man made Baray/lake and water-reservoir.

In memory and honour of Dad
The surrounding Jayatataka Baray lays due east of the Preah Khan temple. This is the large temple complex J7 built in honour of his father.

Jayavarman VII had clear visions as mighty ruler of the Khmer Empire. This was the most beautiful of the more than 110 hospitals he initiated build for his people all over the core parts of his Empire. It is an architectural and water engineering marvel. Placed close by the large temple built in memory of his dad.

Tips for visits
Neak Pean is normally part of the Grand Circuit Tours of Angkor Park. It should be visited early after sunrise, before the soft breeze of the day breaks up the internal mirror pond tranquillity.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/12/25/neak-poan-hospital-temple-for-peace-of-mind/

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Prasat Bei – Trio of one out of four

Prasat Bei – ប្រាសាទបី – means three temples. On top of a small laterite platform of 10 x 24 meter there are these three towers, where the central one is fairly complete and in order. This temple tower rises 10 meter high.

The two flanking temple towers are not in that good condition, and the north one closest to the city moat around Angkor Thom was probably never properly finished. There are still some lintels with carvings left to see.

This is the largest in a quartet of temple sites on the west side of the Southern gate to Angkor Thom. Just to the east and west of this temple is the rather rudimentary remains of Sâk Krâop Temple I and II. Closer to the main road into Angkor Thom is Prasat Bay Kaek East – ប្រាសាទថ្មបាយក្អែក.

Among the earliest Angkor Thom temples
The temple was built for the Hindu god Shiva during the reign of Yasovarman I early in the 900s. This great King was the god king who moved the Khmer capital from Hariharalaya to Yaśodharapura, the area where we today find most of the most famous constructions and temples of Angkor Empire. The first central location of the new capital was built on the nearby Phnom Bakheng.

This temple is 1,5 kilometre north of Angkor Wat. It is worth visiting to get an idea of the design of the first Angkor imperial capital and its temples.

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That time I came to a fork in the road, and someone else choose the track most travelled. I felt obliged to choose the other one.

The area in and around Angkor Park and Siem Reap are excellent for off road biking and exploration. It is a healthy and green way to enjoy the marvels of the Khmer Empire, its origin and its later development.

Finding things not seen
I was on my way to find a couple of more secretive temples and old sites. I was trying to do that by a direct route via Bayon and Angkor Thom and north out of the Grand circle. This trip took me into dirt tracks not travelled by many.

Among things I did find were stuff like a river not supposed to be there. Some bridge and road maintenance. And a bunch of locals tending to rice fields, surprised by the pink skin visitor. But politely and smiling returning greetings of hello and well wishes for a good day.

As Khmer so often do.

It is, as always, important to respect the local’s privacy and integrity. Acting as a respectful, polite and responsible good guest in their home area are of the outmost importance. And of course, be a sensible traveller leaving only bike tracks and footprints and take only photos. Including not biking or walking into any private area or destroying any crop.

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The Compassionate symbolism of the Cat Temple

The name Prasat Banteay Chhmar original meaning was mini citadel temple. In modern Khmer its name can be translated Temple of cats, as Chhmar means cat.

A figure frequent in carvings and bas-reliefs here is the Lokeshvara, the compassionate Bodhisattva. In Mahayana Buddhism Lokeshvara is the ideal of compassion, as he elected not to reach perfect enlightenment as Buddha. Instead, he decided to help others struggling or suffering on their way to Buddhahood.

Lokeshvara was given eleven heads to better hear the suffering of humans, and a thousand arms so he could reach out and help all of them. He is often depicted with a lotus in one of his left hands.

The great god king Jayavarman VII was Mahayana Buddhist emperor, and the worship of Lokeshvara reached a peak during his reign. Several of the buildings built during his reign uses the Lokeshvara frequently.

Prasat Banteay Chhmar is one of the largest temples built in JVIIs time off the main imperial capital city Angkor Thom. It is famous for having many of the most exquisite versions of Lokeshvara depictions. This Lokeshvara in the photo is one of four depictions on the west side.

This temple is situated far west in today’s Cambodia, along the Angkor Khmer Highway, the main road connecting the main cities in the Khmer Angkor Empire.

Prasat Banteay Chhmar is 3 hours’ drive out of Siem Reap. Suitable for a daytrip, but there are lodgings nearby. Sisophon town is 63 km away. This temple is approximately 20 km east of the Thai border.

https://lucasvarro.com/blogs/angkorpedia/lokeshvara

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The mini citadel temple in Banteay Meanchey

Despite the name, the temple complex of Prasat Banteay Chhmar is one of the largest building works from the time of Jayavarman VII. This newly cleared covered walkway between the entrance building and the first temple to the west of the temple is an example of the building style of the era.

Including the great god kings face covering some of the towers in the central parts. Like what is done in Bayon State Temple in the centre of Angkor Thom.

Banteay Chhmar can be directly translated to “Mini/small fortress”. It is situated in Banteay Meanchey province, meaning The Fortress of Victory. This temple is situated far west in today’s Cambodia, but it is situated along the Angkor Khmer Highway, the main road connecting the main cities in the Khmer Angkor Empire together. This temple was directly connected to Angkor Thom via this highway.

Banteay Chhmar, along with its many satellite shrines and dried out reservoir (Baray), comprises one of the most important and least understood archaeological complexes from Cambodia's Angkor period.

It has been under careful and extensive restoration for the last ten years. This has uncovered buildings in the style of the great kings other buildings. There are some detailed decorated friezes and pilasters, and outer walls with extensive bas-reliefs.

Prasat Banteay Chhmar is 3 hours’ drive out of Siem Reap. Suitable for a daytrip, but there are lodgings nearby. Sisophon town is under one hour away with more lodging’s alternatives and small city offerings of food, drinks and shopping.

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Green season morning in Angkor Park

Prasat Top Khang Kaeut (Eastern Prasat Top) temple is a small Hindu temple with several images of the Hindu God Vishnu. The temple is mostly unvisited and very peaceful. The vegetation makes for some stunning photo opportunities during the green season.

The vegetation has taken over most of the surroundings. During green season it gets extraordinary for photos, with deep, green moss and fresh green all around the still very visible temple.

Religious tolerance in the Khmer Empire
Top Khang Kaeut was built during the reign of Jayavarman VII, the great Buddhist god king, and was initiated in 1295CE. It was dedicated in honour of Mangalartha, a son of a Hindu Brahmin priest/guru kept in high regard by the great king. That gives a glimpse into the religious tolerance and transformation of the Empire into Buddhism as the main religion.

This is the last significant Hindu Temple built in the Khmer Empire before the major change to Buddhism as state religion.

Pleasant green season
The Green season in Cambodia starts in June/July and reaches its peak in September/October. To visit during this time period are among the best time slots to enjoy modern Cambodia.

The afternoon rainfalls are short, and they freshen up the air and chills the temperature. And they make everything grow healthy green.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/05/15/the-secret-temple-in-angkor-thom/

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I saw the Buddha in the stone

The heritage from the old capital city of Chenla is still visible in the Kampong Thom area.

When it comes to the art of stonework is still kept in high regards in the modern day just south of Kampong Thom city.
Driving southeast along National Road 6 towards Kampong Cham, Skoun and Phnom Penh, you will drive along stone masonries and cement sculptures along the road. And you get to see how its done.

Like in this photo.

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