Morning landscape between Angkor Thom and Phnom Bakheng

Access to bike tracks and easy rentals of sturdy, modern mountain bikes is another quality and healthy option to explore Angkor.

Early trips often gives the most exciting options regarding light and colours. And of course not too crowded sites.

An added experience is to see and meet how locals live and make use of the cultural landscape bordering the archaeological marvels of the Angkor Park.

As always, travel with care and respect our common cultural world heritage. And the privacy and dignity of the locals.


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Blue face in blue night

The blue colour of the hour just after sunset is enhanced by a large painting in blue variations and black of a Bayon portrait. These stylised portrait covers the facade of Bayon Temple in Angkor Thom. They are supposed to be of the great emperor Jayavarman VII, who built Bayon as his State Temple. But the style imitates classic pose of a Buddha, reminding everyone JVII was the first powerful Buddhist god king of the Khmer empire.

Night market in Siem Reap is not one place. There are several. This one is from the newest, established in 2018. There are two more.

Siem Reap- morre than temples
The night markets are one of the night life activities in Siem Reap, visited by tourists and locals alike. One of the interesting aspects of Cambodia’s second largest city are the effect the large influx of visitors an expat has on the city life and offerings. There is a great chance to meet interesting people activities in this city built on the ancient Khmer Empire and the modern international culture.

Visitors and long stayers alike have offerings of museums, mine sniffing hero rats, botanical garden, animal refugee centre, Circus, art galleries, aquarium and wildness centre.

Shopping is an option not only for the evening, and then there is a wide offering of places to eat and drink. That includes fine dining with both international and local based cuisine, all the way to street food. There are offerings for bike trips, sunset trips, photo trips, Angkor off the beaten track-trips, added with options like food class, pottery class or art classes.

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Morning moment of peace and fishing in a pond

This little pond near Kror Sang Rolerng village is surrounded by rice paddocks on three sides. The local school and road to Wat Athvear is on the fourth.

Wat Athvear is both an active monastery and an old, small temple build in early Bayon style. Like Preah Enkosei on the north side of Siem Reap City, this temple from the Khmer Imperial era is one of the closest temples to Siem Reap city proper.

This is a nice spot to see a compact version of a temple between 2 main eras of Khmer imperial architecture. Normally it is very peaceful to visit Wat Athvear.

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Pointing out a treasure at mysterious West Prasat Top

Exploring Angkor Park is best in the early hours of the day. The temperature is pleasant, and the light is playful and challenging.

This little temple is one of the hidden treasures near the beaten track. But atill several hundred meters off it, by bike or walk.

This morning the sun pointed out a spot to the northeast. I did not find gold, but the remain of an old guardian statue.
A good start for a peaceful visit and some reflections on this small spot in ancient times.

Small mystery
West Prasat Top is in the area where you find several larger temples like Ta Keo, Ta Nei and Ta Prohm. They are all on the east side of Siem Reap River, a couple of kilometres away from the Victory Gate and Angkor Thom. It is close to Don Mao, another small temple near one of the old East Baray docks.

But the current single tower is of post Bayon style. Meaning it was built sometimes after 1200. And the stones used to build this temple may have been reused from older structures.

This is a mysterious temple not only for confusions regarding its origin. Some of the information about this temple mixes it up with the West Top Temple in Angkor Thom.

West Prasat Top’s tower was built on a laterite platform. The pink-sandstone columns and lintels contain some decorations from the 1100s. There are visible remains of stairs leading up to the temple both to the east and west. Parts of an enclosing wall are still there, and more fragments of statues and other carvings.

The tower itself was overgrown when I visited, but recently excavations and renovations has cleared it and cleaned it, and West Prasat Top is pretty in pink today.

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The last Hindu temple built in the greatest Buddhist kings’ capital

That time a hidden temple revealed itself in green season livery. A misty morning at East Top Temple, Angkor Thom.
Prasat Top Khang Kaeut (Eastern Prasat Top), ប្រាសាទតុប ខាងកើត or Mangalartha temple is a small Hindu temple with several images of the God Vishnu. The temple is mostly unvisited and very peaceful.

Green temple
The vegetation has taken over most of the surroundings. That makes for some stunning photo opportunities. During or just after green season this gets extraordinary, with deep, green moss and fresh green all around this temple.

Top Khang Kaeut was built during the reign of Jayavarman VII, the great Buddhist god king, and was initiated in 1295CE. It was built in honour of Mangalartha, a son of a Hindu Brahmin priest/guru kept in high regard by the god king. That gives a glimpse into the religious tolerance and structures in the Khmer Empire.

Small temple, large importance
This is the last significant Hindu Temple built in the Khmer Empire before the major change to Buddhism as State religion. It was built during the era of the most powerful of the Buddhist kings of Angkor. It is the last temple built in the high Angkor time frame with a definitive known initiating date.

The “Hidden Temple”-name is because anyone who wants to explore this small temple and site needs to actively go looking for it. It is not on any of the ordinary visiting trips in Angkor Park. If not biking, the visitor needs to walk some hundred meters into the thick forest. Tuk Tuks or cars cannot drive there.

It is a nice 12 km ride from central Siem Reap.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/05/15/the-secret-temple-in-angkor-thom/

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Visit to an impressing off the main track citadel temple

Banteay Thom, the big (Thom) Citadel (Banteay), is 10 km north of Angkor Wat and 15 km out Siem Reap City limits. It is accessible by motorbike or a proper bike only.

This temple was built during the rule of Jayavarman VII "the Great" in early 1200s CE. There is one main entrance to the east, and a gate blockaded by debris to the west. Remains of a moat surrounds the old temple.

As a temple built by a mighty god king, it is of stately qualities including some very advanced arts and stone carvings.
After the anteroom and Gopuras, the main three towers are of impressive sizes. But in some need of restoration.

Being outside the main Angkor Park area, there is no need for an Angkor temple pass to visit. It is a truly quiet place with spots and details to study closely, without the queueing and crowds in the more famous temple from JVIIs reign.
Unfortunately, its solitude location means that the temple has been a target for looting into quite recent times.

Banteay Thom is surrounded by rice fields. Visiting during harvest season means meeting and surprise a lot of locals tending to their fields. Including the field where the young Khmer works, where you can listen to the latest in Khmer pop music.

That is not a bad thing. Kh-pop is patent, modern pop worth listen to. And makes a nice cultural contrast to the old Archaeological structure.

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