Visit to an impressing off the main track citadel temple

Banteay Thom, the big (Thom) Citadel (Banteay), is 10 km north of Angkor Wat and 15 km out Siem Reap City limits. It is accessible by motorbike or a proper bike only.

This temple was built during the rule of Jayavarman VII "the Great" in early 1200s CE. There is one main entrance to the east, and a gate blockaded by debris to the west. Remains of a moat surrounds the old temple.

As a temple built by a mighty god king, it is of stately qualities including some very advanced arts and stone carvings.
After the anteroom and Gopuras, the main three towers are of impressive sizes. But in some need of restoration.

Being outside the main Angkor Park area, there is no need for an Angkor temple pass to visit. It is a truly quiet place with spots and details to study closely, without the queueing and crowds in the more famous temple from JVIIs reign.
Unfortunately, its solitude location means that the temple has been a target for looting into quite recent times.

Banteay Thom is surrounded by rice fields. Visiting during harvest season means meeting and surprise a lot of locals tending to their fields. Including the field where the young Khmer works, where you can listen to the latest in Khmer pop music.

That is not a bad thing. Kh-pop is patent, modern pop worth listen to. And makes a nice cultural contrast to the old Archaeological structure.

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The mirror pond at Neak Poan temple

A morning bike to Neak Pean/Neak Poan (Khmer: ប្រាសាទនាគព័ន្ធ, “the entwined serpents”) is a fresh morning bike trip. The main temple tower dedicated to Avalokitesvara is this one in the mirror pond is worth the trip itself.

Neak Pean was built as a retreat and healing place at an artificial island. This island was put in the centre of a man made Baray/lake and water-reservoir.

In memory and honour of Dad
The surrounding Jayatataka Baray lays due east of the Preah Khan temple. This is the large temple complex J7 built in honour of his father.

Jayavarman VII had clear visions as mighty ruler of the Khmer Empire. This was the most beautiful of the more than 110 hospitals he initiated build for his people all over the core parts of his Empire. It is an architectural and water engineering marvel. Placed close by the large temple built in memory of his dad.

Tips for visits
Neak Pean is normally part of the Grand Circuit Tours of Angkor Park. It should be visited early after sunrise, before the soft breeze of the day breaks up the internal mirror pond tranquillity.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/12/25/neak-poan-hospital-temple-for-peace-of-mind/

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The Compassionate symbolism of the Cat Temple

The name Prasat Banteay Chhmar original meaning was mini citadel temple. In modern Khmer its name can be translated Temple of cats, as Chhmar means cat.

A figure frequent in carvings and bas-reliefs here is the Lokeshvara, the compassionate Bodhisattva. In Mahayana Buddhism Lokeshvara is the ideal of compassion, as he elected not to reach perfect enlightenment as Buddha. Instead, he decided to help others struggling or suffering on their way to Buddhahood.

Lokeshvara was given eleven heads to better hear the suffering of humans, and a thousand arms so he could reach out and help all of them. He is often depicted with a lotus in one of his left hands.

The great god king Jayavarman VII was Mahayana Buddhist emperor, and the worship of Lokeshvara reached a peak during his reign. Several of the buildings built during his reign uses the Lokeshvara frequently.

Prasat Banteay Chhmar is one of the largest temples built in JVIIs time off the main imperial capital city Angkor Thom. It is famous for having many of the most exquisite versions of Lokeshvara depictions. This Lokeshvara in the photo is one of four depictions on the west side.

This temple is situated far west in today’s Cambodia, along the Angkor Khmer Highway, the main road connecting the main cities in the Khmer Angkor Empire.

Prasat Banteay Chhmar is 3 hours’ drive out of Siem Reap. Suitable for a daytrip, but there are lodgings nearby. Sisophon town is 63 km away. This temple is approximately 20 km east of the Thai border.

https://lucasvarro.com/blogs/angkorpedia/lokeshvara

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The mini citadel temple in Banteay Meanchey

Despite the name, the temple complex of Prasat Banteay Chhmar is one of the largest building works from the time of Jayavarman VII. This newly cleared covered walkway between the entrance building and the first temple to the west of the temple is an example of the building style of the era.

Including the great god kings face covering some of the towers in the central parts. Like what is done in Bayon State Temple in the centre of Angkor Thom.

Banteay Chhmar can be directly translated to “Mini/small fortress”. It is situated in Banteay Meanchey province, meaning The Fortress of Victory. This temple is situated far west in today’s Cambodia, but it is situated along the Angkor Khmer Highway, the main road connecting the main cities in the Khmer Angkor Empire together. This temple was directly connected to Angkor Thom via this highway.

Banteay Chhmar, along with its many satellite shrines and dried out reservoir (Baray), comprises one of the most important and least understood archaeological complexes from Cambodia's Angkor period.

It has been under careful and extensive restoration for the last ten years. This has uncovered buildings in the style of the great kings other buildings. There are some detailed decorated friezes and pilasters, and outer walls with extensive bas-reliefs.

Prasat Banteay Chhmar is 3 hours’ drive out of Siem Reap. Suitable for a daytrip, but there are lodgings nearby. Sisophon town is under one hour away with more lodging’s alternatives and small city offerings of food, drinks and shopping.

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Greenlight the best time to visit Cambodia

Sometimes it is nice enjoying the rain cleaning up the air and colours in Angkor Thom. Sitting in a comfortable shelter with other visitors and staff is a sociable affair, too.

Green season in Cambodia starts in June/July and reaches its peak in September/October. Planning to visit during the summer in Europe, or when the Autumn is at its darkest and coldest in the northern hemisphere, those are the best time to enjoy Cambodia.

And to visit the architecture and art from the ancient Khmer empire.

The afternoon rainfalls are short, and they freshest the air and cools down the temperature. And they make everything grow healthy green. Including shrouding the ancient temples and imperial sites in green, softening the outline and enhancing the contrasts.

Making the photography conditions are excellent, the temperature is awesome, the crowds are small, and the cost of food, drinks and accommodation are as pleasant as ever.

For those who enjoys other senses as much, they can look forward to the fresh scent after a shower has cleaned the air, and the fragrance of green nature in it growing season. And the aroma of delicious food made from fresh vegetables and fruit. The sound of birds and insects wakening after a fresh spell is part of natural wonder. And the sound of different sort of monsoon is something to ponder.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/01/01/embracing-the-rain-visiting-angkor-park/

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Green season morning in Angkor Park

Prasat Top Khang Kaeut (Eastern Prasat Top) temple is a small Hindu temple with several images of the Hindu God Vishnu. The temple is mostly unvisited and very peaceful. The vegetation makes for some stunning photo opportunities during the green season.

The vegetation has taken over most of the surroundings. During green season it gets extraordinary for photos, with deep, green moss and fresh green all around the still very visible temple.

Religious tolerance in the Khmer Empire
Top Khang Kaeut was built during the reign of Jayavarman VII, the great Buddhist god king, and was initiated in 1295CE. It was dedicated in honour of Mangalartha, a son of a Hindu Brahmin priest/guru kept in high regard by the great king. That gives a glimpse into the religious tolerance and transformation of the Empire into Buddhism as the main religion.

This is the last significant Hindu Temple built in the Khmer Empire before the major change to Buddhism as state religion.

Pleasant green season
The Green season in Cambodia starts in June/July and reaches its peak in September/October. To visit during this time period are among the best time slots to enjoy modern Cambodia.

The afternoon rainfalls are short, and they freshen up the air and chills the temperature. And they make everything grow healthy green.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/05/15/the-secret-temple-in-angkor-thom/

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