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Sunset, rays and clouds over top rice

Sunsets are interesting phenomena. Like when the sun making out with a particular wild cloud before setting for the night.
Not exactly the calming mood sunsets from the clichés.
The soothing part here are the rice fields, full of green plants growing to be delicious rice.

Top notch rice
Cambodia is said to have several hundred, even thousands, types of rice. Often changing main type from one village to the next.

Rice from Cambodia is in the top tier every time rice experts taste where in the world the best rice is grown. Like they did last year.

The upside being in the Kingdom is not only the great produce and the delicious variations of food and dishes. The good thing is the fragrance and taste of Cambodian rice make for a quick meal or a snack. All you need is a bowl of freshly steamed local rice. And a drop or three of your favourite condiment sauce. Or sauces. And some fresh chilli.

It is chhnang ឆ្ងាញ់ៗ – delicious – all by itself!

https://www.irri.org/where-we-work/countries/cambodia

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Inside this great collection of green is the remains of one of the oldest temples in Angkor Park

A colourful memory from that time I had lunch near Prasat Kôk Svay Pream. I had visited four temples in old Hariharalaya/Roluos group covering 400 years of architecture. Finally found this well covered, very old pre-Khmer empire temple site.

Nearly a 100 year older than Khmer Empire
Prasat Kôk Svay Pream, ប្រាសាទគោកស្វាយព្រាហ្មណ៍ in Khmer, is mostly covered by vegetation.

Only some small remains of a brick wall, an entrance gate and a lingam basin are relatively easy to be found. In front there of this is an entrance platform facing eastwards. The thick growth of green trees, palms and thick foliage including thorn bushes covers the rest of the site. It looks like it has been a moat of sort around the elevated area where this temple remains are.

When Prasat Kôk Svay Pream first was rediscovered, three lintels where found. They show the bridging of architecture and design from Sambor Prei Kouk of Chenla kingdom to Prei Khmeng and Kulen of early Khmer during the 700s CE.

The Chenla kingdom was the last Khmer kingdom before the Khmer empire was declared in 802 CE. Its capital was near Kampong Thom.

It is a nice and peaceful place, and not a lot of visitors. Or locals. Some friendly cows, though. Always lovely with something bovine out in the countryside.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/09/20/lunch-at-prasat-kok-svay-pream/

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Sunrise greeting at the first grand temple of the Khmer Empire

Mornings are the most pleasant time to visit Bakong Temple. The large stone temple gets very hot later in the day.
Bakong was the first mountain type of temple architecture design in the Khmer imperial era. It served as a state temple for king Indravarman I, in the first dedicated Khmer imperial capital at Hariharalaya.
Today this is the Roluos Group of temples east of Siem Reap City, Cambodia. Other well-known temples here is Preah Koh and Lolei.

Large Hindu influence
The temple was dedicated to Shiva, and its main consecrated image was a lingam called Sri Indresvara. This step pyramid mountain temple draws inspiration from other large Hindu temples in the region built around the same time. Most notably the fantastic Borobudur temple in Java, outside Yogyakarta.
Bakong temple was the last large construction in Hariharalaya. Indravarman’s son and heir Yasovarman I moved the capital to Phnom Bakheng in the early 900s. Bakheng Hill is just south of what we today call Angkor Thom, the big (capital) city.

For those interested in comparative historical timeline, this temple was finished as a state temple in 881CE. In Norway, the first unification of the kingdom under one superior king established the first larger Nordic kingdom.

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Prasat Bei – Trio of one out of four

Prasat Bei – ប្រាសាទបី – means three temples. On top of a small laterite platform of 10 x 24 meter there are these three towers, where the central one is fairly complete and in order. This temple tower rises 10 meter high.

The two flanking temple towers are not in that good condition, and the north one closest to the city moat around Angkor Thom was probably never properly finished. There are still some lintels with carvings left to see.

This is the largest in a quartet of temple sites on the west side of the Southern gate to Angkor Thom. Just to the east and west of this temple is the rather rudimentary remains of Sâk Krâop Temple I and II. Closer to the main road into Angkor Thom is Prasat Bay Kaek East – ប្រាសាទថ្មបាយក្អែក.

Among the earliest Angkor Thom temples
The temple was built for the Hindu god Shiva during the reign of Yasovarman I early in the 900s. This great King was the god king who moved the Khmer capital from Hariharalaya to Yaśodharapura, the area where we today find most of the most famous constructions and temples of Angkor Empire. The first central location of the new capital was built on the nearby Phnom Bakheng.

This temple is 1,5 kilometre north of Angkor Wat. It is worth visiting to get an idea of the design of the first Angkor imperial capital and its temples.

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That time I came to a fork in the road, and someone else choose the track most travelled. I felt obliged to choose the other one.

The area in and around Angkor Park and Siem Reap are excellent for off road biking and exploration. It is a healthy and green way to enjoy the marvels of the Khmer Empire, its origin and its later development.

Finding things not seen
I was on my way to find a couple of more secretive temples and old sites. I was trying to do that by a direct route via Bayon and Angkor Thom and north out of the Grand circle. This trip took me into dirt tracks not travelled by many.

Among things I did find were stuff like a river not supposed to be there. Some bridge and road maintenance. And a bunch of locals tending to rice fields, surprised by the pink skin visitor. But politely and smiling returning greetings of hello and well wishes for a good day.

As Khmer so often do.

It is, as always, important to respect the local’s privacy and integrity. Acting as a respectful, polite and responsible good guest in their home area are of the outmost importance. And of course, be a sensible traveller leaving only bike tracks and footprints and take only photos. Including not biking or walking into any private area or destroying any crop.

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Hunting red bananas in the woods

The red bananas from Kulen mountains are a treat and a sweet surprise. They are easily available visiting the sacred mountain and cradle of the Khmer civilization.

Along the hillside road to the Kulen sites, including Preah Ang Thom with Cambodia’s largest reclining buddha, the thousand lingams river and the waterfall in these holy mountains, there are market stalls. Here the locals are selling veggies and fruit, as well as food, drinks and miscellanies like flip flops, hats and krama scarf.

Chek!
These red bananas, “chek leak” in Khmer looks and taste great and is a must-have among the produce offered. The Chek Leak is a bit more expensive than the more ordinary bananas, chek, in Cambodia. Expect prices up to 5 USD a kilo.

For the banana lover, Cambodia is where to make out big time. There are at least 27 different chek/banana versions available in different sizes and colours, and they are often very inexpensive. They vary from the immediately snackable to the savoury plantain version best known for different cooked dishes in various cuisines around the globe.

You may even find a typical Cavendish banana in Cambodia, if that is your craving.

It all ads into the extensive list of fresh fruit easily available for people living or travel in the Kingdom of Wonder.

Open markets are affluent on the road to Kulen Mountain, attracting a lot of different customers. It is an hour-hour and a half drive from Siem Reap, depending on traffic.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2021/01/09/reclining-at-the-craddle-of-khmer-empire-3/

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