"IA : pourquoi Heretic représente l’un des plus grands dangers numériques de tous les temps"
#Heretic #IntelligenceArtificielle #IAGen #GenAI #Alteration ...
"IA : pourquoi Heretic représente l’un des plus grands dangers numériques de tous les temps"
#Heretic #IntelligenceArtificielle #IAGen #GenAI #Alteration ...
Two easy Alterations
A while ago, i looked through my wardrobe and sorted (nearly) everything in 3 categories.
1.) Still wearing = keep
2.) Not wearing, because of fit or needing repair = alter, repair
3.) Not wearing = Donate
It is kinda shocking how much stuff i have, but just don´t wear. Most of those clothes i do not wear, because i don´t like the material they are made out of – ( i got a lot of clothes gifted to me over the years). And others i like, but don´t wear regularly, because they fit weird or i put them on my mend and repair pile and forget about them.
Well, this weekend i altered a very old blouse (for the second time) and a skirt i made myself years and years ago. The blouse was once a nice royal blue (later dyed to navy), short sleeved blouse. I can´t exactly remember, but i think the sleeves had to go, because they were much to tight. (Here is the Link to the old Blog Post: Alteration: Blouse (Änderung Bluse)). I realised that i don´t wear this blouse that often, because i made the armholes a bit too tight. And this is the only thing that needs to be changed. Everything else is quite good.
As you can see, too tight armhole.I folded one side of the blouse inwards and pinned the side seams and shoulder seams together (so the seams matched). Than i cut away the bias tape edging i made years ago. If the armhole would have been just a little bit less tight, than it was, i would have used my seam ripper to end up with the original armhole and maybe cut away half a cm. But it was soo tight, i was able to cut off all of it.
Here is the old alteration with the matching bias tape. Folded Inwards and shoulder seam onto shoulder seam.The view from the side.I then looked for a matching bias tape, which is just the easiest way to finish it, and stitched it on from the outside (the nice side of the blouse), folded it twice and topstitched it down on the inside. Never pull on the bias tape or else it puckers.
Sew it from the outside.. You should iron it, but i just pressed it flat with my fingernails. Folded once to the seam.. Folded twice and then.. Sewed it down.After a good press, the alteration was completed and it only took me about half an hour.
Much more comfortable!The second alteration for this weekend was a skirt, i made a long time ago. I usually wear it every summer, but it always did bother me a bit, because it was just two rectangles sewn together and thus my freedom of movement was a bit restricted. I always had to pull it up a bit, so i could run or walk faster. It just wasn´t practical. So i made two slits on the sides.
I didn´t press it before (or after) because it will get folded up again till next summer.As i was looking at the seams of this skirt i just thought, wow my sewing really got much much better. I definitely wouldn´t do some thing as i did, like serging together the side seams, because this makes alterations quite tricky.
I couldn´t cut anything away, because it would just get very wonky and a bit prone to fraying. So seam ripper to the rescue!
I pressed everything and then i serged both sides from the slit in one go. Which means, i started at the „hem“ (where the hem was), serged up to the end of the slit and back down the other side. It isn´t the best way to make a slit, but it worked out just fine.
And then topstitched the slits, which apparently i didn´t take a picture of, and closed the hem again. And that was it. I´m still not sure about the length of the skirt, but this will be a problem for next summer. Once i wear it, i will decide what is going to happen.
Finished slits.This alteration took be about an hour, and only because i had to unpick the seams and i ran out of bobbin thread.
As i said : really easy alterations, that hopefully prolong the life and wear span of my clothes.
Which easy alterations do you like to make?
Thank you for reading, till next time. Maybe with another Knitting Adventure.
#alteration #alterations #anleitung #blouse #craft #crafts #sewing #skirt #tutorial
Alterations – New Life for unworn Clothes : Refitting Jeans
After sewing and drafting my own patterns for years now, i realized my wardrobe is nearly bursting. But not only with clothes i wear regularly or love so much i can´t give them away (yet), but also with pieces that hardly see the light of day. I´m a bit on a journey of altering or repurposing things i have. Because let´s be honest, i have a lot of stuff. Not only clothes, but fabrics and yarn. I think it is good to have a stash when times are difficult, but there is a certain tipping point, where it just becomes a bit overwhelming.
The first two projects i want to show you are two trousers/jeans. The first was an ill-considered bad buy, which then i never wore. I do like the look of the trouser, white-blue striped, nice for summer. But it was super-stretchy and not high-waisted (which i prefer nowadays) and had skinny legs…which was never a good look on me.
So what to do, i thought. You can´t really change the rise of a trouser, at least not so that it looks like this was the original form of the trouser. But you can change the width of the legs!
I looked for some insertion lace in my stash (yay stash!) that kinda matched the white stripes. I think i bought that one from a thrift store years and years ago. It was a bit too see through, and i wasn´t going for that look, so i also looked for a bit of white cotton for the upper half of the lace insert.
The main problem i had was to find a lace wide enough to give me some extra room in the legs, but not wide enough, that the width of the waist changed too much. The trouser was stretchy and a bit snug, so i figured i would be happy with a 7cm wide trim ( seam allowance included).
I started with unpicking the overlocker/serger seam of the side seams and the side seam up to the point of the hip depth, which is normally the point where the side seams start curving in again. Then i took a scissor and cut the seams open, thus cutting the seam allowances of the former seams away. I also cut through the waist band. There is a point where you have a bit of an ugly corner, where the unpicked and the cut seam meet, just balance it out ever so slightly.
Apparently i forgot to take a pic of the „opened up“ trouser.
Then i prepared the lace and the cotton fabric. I cut the cotton fabric to the width of the lace and the prefered length, which for me was about to the middle of my thigh + the width of the waistband + seam allowances on top, because i wanted to turn it over at the top with the lace. You can make it as long or short as you want of course. The bottom of my cotton strip got a little hem. For the lace, I also added double seam allowance (would be good if it is the same amount as the hem of the legs) at the bottom for the hem.
Then i layed the lace on top of the cotton, pinned it and serged them together at the top. (The sides come later).
After that i pinned the strip to the open side seam of the trouser. At one side i tried to sew the overlap at the waistband in one go, but that wasn´t really a great idea, so leave that for later. What i also noticed, it is better to sew from top to bottom on both sides, because it can happen that the length of the leg won´t match up again. It can be, that while sewing i stretched it a little bit. And it is better to have that difference at the bottom hem, than at your waistband.
After that you serge your seams allowance and iron downwards + pin + sew the overlap at the waistband. I also topstitched on both side of the lace, so the seam allowance would lay nice a flat.
And this is the finished trouser, which i really like now, and hopefully wear a lot more than before.
My second project is a jeans, which is high-waisted and has nice wide legs and overall i really really love. BUT apparently after the second time washing it (although i got that jeans from a thrift store) shrank like no-ones business. So i just tried the same solution, but this time the legs weren´t the main focus but the waist. I only need a few cm to not feel like a sausage while wearing it.
I didn´t use lace, because i hadn´t anything black, i used some jacquard trim, which looked good with the black-greyish fabric.
The process was nearly the same, but with the difference that i sewed the trim on top of the opened-up trousers, so i wouldn´t loose too much seam allowance. And it is also easier to sew a trim on that way. Which means that after unpicking and cutting, i had to serge the side seams of the jeans before sewing the trim on.
And that is the finished jeans! What do you think? I think it really looks great. How do you alter you clothes to fit you again? I´m always at the look-out for more ideas. Thank you for reading, till next time!
George Orwell (1903-1950) English writer [pseud. of Eric Arthur Blair]
Essay (1946-01), “The Prevention of Literature,” Polemic Magazine
Sourcing, notes: wist.info/orwell-george/43942/
#quote #quotes #quotation #qotd #orwell #georgeorwell #alteration #censorship #dogma #editing #history #infallibility #mythology #objectivity #reality #revision #subjectivity #totalitarianism #truth #updating
A quotation from Marcus Aurelius
Constantly observe everything coming into being through change, and accustom yourself to the thought that universal nature loves nothing so much as to change the things that are and to create new things in their likeness. For everything that exists is, in a sense, the seed of what will arise from it.Marcus Aurelius (AD 121-180) Roman emperor (161-180), Stoic philosopher
Meditations [To Himself; Τὰ εἰς ἑαυτόν], Book 4, ch. 36 (4.36) (AD 161-180) [tr. Hard (2011 ed.)]
Sourcing, notes, alternate translations: wist.info/marcus-aureleus/2668…
#quote #quotes #quotation #qotd #marcusaurelius #alteration #change #evolution #mutation #nature #seed