I’ve been seeing samples of this deep blue-green (birch?) wood and I was wondering if this is considered spalting by fungi or if there is an other cause. Any ideas out there?
Hmm, there might be a blackthorn club, err, walking stick in this thing.
Definitely curved for lefties, this one.
Not sure how to treat it. It's super green right now. Probably not going to cure it for 2 years in the chimney though. 🤷
#Club #Woodworking #Greenwoodworking #DIY #Blackthorn #Shillelagh #ThornyFucker
Updated my Trimming/Leveling Jig for trim routers on MakerWorld! The new version brings some improvements... and more importantly, team yellow can finally join the party.
Go check it out and follow along for more!
Download this free 3D print file designed by hashtagsheep. Updated version available! Read the changelog to see what has changed.I'm planning to expand this jig to support trim routers from other brands, but I can't test the mounting myself. If you have a different model and want to help out, just leave a comment and I'll get in touch!This trimming/leveling jig is designed for Makita and Dewalt trim routers. It's a helpful accessory for cleanly leveling resin fills, plugs, dowels, or similar surface features. The flat base provides a stable reference, making it easier to achieve consistent and precise results.HighlightsCompatible with Makita trim routers using the standard mounting screw layout (e.g. DRT50Z)Compatible with Dewalt trim routers using the 2.4 x 2.4 inches screw layout (e.g. CW600N)Handle mount improves stability and control during useSized for flush trim bits up to 35 mm in diameterPrinting & Post-ProcessingThe jig was printed in PLA with support material to ensure clean surfaces. While using support filament helps reduce cleanup, it's not required… manual support removal works just as well. A smooth print plate is recommended to ensure a clean surface where the jig contacts the workpiece. Mounting requires M4 screws (2x10 mm and 2x16 mm), either flat head machine screws or socket cap screws with a maximum head height of 4.5 mm and head diameter of 8 mm. The required screws are listed in the parts list. The handle mount accepts either an M8 nut or an M8 hex screw to attach a handle of your choice. I reused one of the grips that came with the router set, but there are many printable options available on MakerWorld. When using a nut with a handle, make sure the screw thread on the handle does not exceed 10 mm in length.Changelogv1Initial releasev2Added Dewalt supportIncreased size to support the Dewalt base.. still printable on an A1 Mini, yay!Improved stability through a center stabilizer that encourages the slicer to print additional perimeter wallsIncreased screw diameter for smoother installation without screws getting stuckImproved base with an angled fence to make it easier to clear larger areas and guide material toward the router bit
This project started with a warped table top that needed fixing first 🤍
After repairing it, I used a soft paint wash finish to add a hint of color while still letting the wood grain shine through. Such a simple but beautiful technique!
I shared both the repair and finishing process here:
https://salvagedinspirations.com/how-to-fix-a-warped-wood-table-top/
#woodworking
oh, and as long as the oven was hot, I tried a tiny experiment in the chemical "burning" of patterns into wood.
I have a few scrounged squares of pale-colored, very thin plywood of the sort that's often used to make bits of blank wood for crafting projects. I hoped to use these squares for experiments in chemical woodburning. The idea is: apply some sort of chemical treatment, usually with the aid of heat (as from a heat-gun) which causes unusual darkening or scorching of the wood. Fumigating wood with ammonia, for example, will darken its color and even "ebonize" the wood (i.e. turn it almost black) with suffiicient exposure.
The usually cited method for achieving chemical wordburning employs ammonium chloride, sal ammoniac, dissolved in water and thickened into a paste. I have some sal ammoniac on hand, but I was keen on trying another idea I picked up from some articles in the technical literature: treating light-colored woods with citric acid solution and then heat treatment turned the wood a rich red-brown color.
It does! I can verify that, anyway. Unfortunately the citric acid paste I made (1 tbsp food-grade citric acid in 1/3 cup water + 2 tsp corn starch, heated and stirred in a double-boiler until the starch was thoroughly gelatinized) tended to bleed into the wood around the edges of the stencil, so when I baked a piece of wood with the citric acid paste applied, I got a rather ugly irregular red-brown blotch. I wish to try again, but taking care to apply a much thinner layer of the paste.
David Bridger
Roofhare
Walter Martin
China Business Forum
Y⃒̸̷̝̜̙ͥͥͥngmar
hashtagsheep - Maker Blog 🐑
Salvaged Inspirations
Thomas
Mx. Chara Aznable (they/them) of Pnictogen