Portland Home Exchange: Biking, Vegan Eats, and Unique Attractions
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Portland, Oregon has always held a certain charm for us – we love the bike network, vegan food options, and quirkiness of the city. This trip marked our fourth time visiting, but the first time with our daughter Astrid. We were really excited about this trip. We were curious to see how Portland had changed since our last trip in 2015 and how it would feel as a family destination. Trump’s tariffs and annexation almost lead us to cancel the trip, but we went ahead anyway knowing that an American family would experiencing life in Vancouver while we were braving the United States.
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This was our first big house swap using Home Exchange and we arranged it way back in October. It definitely made for a different experience. Instead of staying in a hotel, we had a full house, with a kitchen to cook meals and a cat to snuggle with in the evenings. It was more work to arrange, especially cleaning and organizing our home before we left, but it was worth the effort. Astrid got her own bedroom, with a bunk bed and stuffies. The house had new board games to discover, like Exploding Kittens and Sleeping Queens. Best of all, we arranged a bike swap with our hosts, so we got to use their road bike and e-cargo bike to explore the city. And it was kind of cool to know that while we were in Portland, another family was having a similar experience at our home in Vancouver.
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One of the things we’ve always appreciated about Portland is its dedication to cycling, and this trip only reinforced that. The robust bike network is truly impressive, and it was great to see the new additions, like the sleek Blumenauer Bridge. Getting around on two wheels is such a fantastic way to explore a city, especially when the weather is nice and the cherry blossoms are in full bloom.
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Of course, a significant draw for us is always the food scene, and Portland’s vegan options continue to impress. Despite having a fully stocked kitchen in our exchange home, Emily’s list of must-try vegan restaurants kept us eating out a lot! Standouts included the delicious tacos at Mis Tacones, the tasty fare and friendly owner at Rabbits Cafe, and the inventive dishes at Norah Alberta. We also enjoyed eating at a number of Portland’s food truck pods, which are almost like outdoor cafeterias.
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And yes, we made it to Voodoo Donuts. Twice in fact.
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Portland’s reputation for being weird is well-earned, and this trip offered some prime examples. The Lloyd Center is a downtown shopping mall that was completely devoid of shoppers. Most of the storefronts were empty, but there was a ton of nerds hanging around engrossed in pinball games, Pokémon battles, Beyblade tournaments, and Warhammer strategy sessions.
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Then there was the unique McMenamins Kennedy School, a converted elementary school that now houses a hotel, restaurants, and even a soaking pool. We caught a showing of “Flow” in the old gymnasium and then relaxed in the heated pool next to what used to be the teacher’s lounge – a truly Portland kind of experience.
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The most kid-centric activity we did was spending an afternoon at the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry (OMSI). The interactive exhibits kept Astrid engaged for hours, and the hands-on chemistry lab was a definite highlight for everyone.
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We also enjoyed a peaceful stroll through the beautiful Japanese Gardens in Washington Park, a serene escape from the city bustle.
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And for my birthday, we spent a beautifully sunny day biking next to cherry blossoms all the way across the city to Oaks Amusement Park where we roller skated and played mini golf.
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We made the most of our trip to Portland, but it wasn’t without its downsides. As Canadians, the exchange rate hit us hard. It was surprising to see grocery store prices, restaurant bills, and clothing tags mirroring Canadian prices but in USD, effectively making everything about 40% more expensive than back home. For example, avocados were $3.79 USD or a whopping $5.25 CAD!
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We also couldn’t help but notice how eerily empty downtown Portland felt, with a significant number of vacant storefronts. And while Portland boasts great public transit and a good bike network, often it felt like we were the only ones using them. As an example, our trip to Oaks Amusement Park was super easy along a beautiful waterfront trail but we were the only people looking for bike parking when we got there. It feels like the pandemic did a real number on Portland and it hasn’t recovered yet.
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Finally, our journey home was less than ideal. As much as I love Amtrak and riding trains, it doesn’t love me back. While the trip down to Portland was relaxing and smooth, all train service along the Cascades route was canceled for our return trip due to corrosion issues. We ended up on a long bus ride back to Vancouver, which wasn’t nearly as comfortable or enjoyable as the train. To top it off, we’re pretty sure we picked up COVID during that less-than-pleasant return journey.
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Despite these challenges, our trip to Portland was still a worthwhile experience. Seeing the city through our child’s eyes added a new dimension to its familiar quirks and charms. The blend of excellent vegan food, unique attractions, and the city’s commitment to alternative transportation still holds appeal. While the financial sting and the travel mishaps were unfortunate, the memories of biking through blossoming streets, engaging in science experiments, and embracing Portland’s wonderfully weird spirit will linger.
More photos from our trip.
#Amtrak #homeExchange #McMenamins #OMSI #oregon #portland #publicTransit