Of Pens and Swords
In January 2011, a series of pro-democracy protests and demonstrations across North Africa and the Middle East succeeded in deposing multiple rulers. This constellation of events became known as the Arab Spring, and it ushered in, at least briefly, hope for a new era of change.
When I returned to Egypt afterward, the physical landscape of Cairo had changed. At Tahrir Square, the epicenter of the revolution, the gutted-out shell of a hotel testified to the violence that marked the revolution. Giant new walls surrounded the national museum. Narrow avenues of entry and guard posts slowed access to tourist sites. During my daily drives through Cairo I also saw something that never existed during the Mubarak era: graffiti.
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