AilbheThis is a Learning Experience. (1) I can't cut out with scissors and need to stick to the roller blades. (2) I have two loop turners but for straps with interfacing inside I need to go back to the safety pin method, which I got good at when my mother was sewing scrunchies for her market stalls at various times. #sewing
Aaaaaaand stopping for the day. Turning it right way out shows me where I need to redo some of the MAJOR STRUCTURAL SEAMS because I didn't catch all the layers. *whimpers*
Basting by hand is easier and quicker to remove BUT basting by machine is much less painful and the time saved in sewing is much greater than the time lost in unpicking.
I'm annoyed at the waste in this pattern. For each of the front, back, sides, and base, you cut a piece of outer fabric, interfacing, batting, stabiliser, and lining fabric. And then at the end it says to cut 1 cm from every edge of every piece of stabiliser before inserting it. You could just cut the pieces 2cm shorter and narrower to begin with.
And one of the pockets has interfacing you cut in half and throw half away, because the fabric is folded over the half you use. It seems ridiculous.
So this is for an English teacher and first I thought I'd put three novels in A Handbag and then the whole idea evolved but ALSO it's definitely looking at the stars so really I think I should just be glad I didn't buy any guttering. It's three books in a bag and nobody needs to know it came from Wilde ideas. #Sewing
Starting something new today. I've unfolded my big table and extended it by putting an A1 drawing board on top. It's fine as long as I don't lean on the edges. And now I'm cutting the paper pattern and reading the instructions.
So far, it seems really good. Lots of helpful notation for how to cut out and assemble for best results. I expect this to teach me much more than I thought it would about making a shirt. #Sewing
This is the first time I've drawn a thread but the instructions (first image) are very clear so I'm following them. The linen I'm working with is shoddily spun so the thread kept pulling apart, rather than breaking -- like teasing cotton wool apart. But I managed in the end so now I have a straight edge for my fabric. It was extremely wonky before. #Sewing
I've ironed the pattern and half the fabric on a towel on my tabletop so we'll see how we go.
I've cut the back piece. The instructions include detailed notes on how to mark up the fabric so I'm hoping to rest my hands and then give it a go. #Sewing
I'm pausing for dinner, watching Rick Astley at Glastonbury, and eating spaghetti with tomato based sauce on my cutting surface because there is nowhere else in this room to sit or to put a plate. That's white linen.
I'm now unpinning the paper pattern from each piece one at a time, checking I've transferred markings as I go, and sewing each stage in strict order of instructions. Because my fabric has no right or wrong side I've already made an error. I've topstitched the wrong side of the yoke so the pleats for ease are wrong. Unpicker time. #Sewing
I fixed that, but the next stages involve ironing, for which I will have to stand, so I'm having a break.
I've ironed the yoke seams and topstitched them down, and stay-stitched and basted all around the neckline and armscyes, and lost my sewing machine manual, and fixed the issue with repeatedly breaking thread by replacing the needle with a finer one. I think I was using a jeans needle. Oops.
Next time I make a shirt I'll use a more rigid fabric or starch it first or both. This is excessively drapey.
I've attached the facings to the sleeve turnups and realised I should have trimmed the seams inside the yoke before I sewed the shoulders on. Oops. Too late now. If it's terrible I can add Decorative Topstitching to hold them in place. I'll remember next time. But I've just done ironing so I'm resting again.
The sleeves are ready to pin - baste - sew to the shirt but this will involve finding a large surface and then basting by hand, so I'm going to wait until tomorrow. I'm tired enough that I might make ridiculous mistakes.
The instructions say at one point to baste everything and try it on and then sew, but I think that might only apply to the side seams?
The sleeves are attached to the shoulders. Next I need to press those seams, trim, and fell them. I can't figure out what that's going to be like; there are five layers where the yoke is attached to the front or back, and that's going to be folded over inside?! But lots of men's shirts actually exist, so it must be POSSIBLE.
Oh dear, ironing really does help, I resent this fact so much. I also need to figure out how to baste fabric that's slithering like an overexcited toddler covered in sunscreen they squirted on themselves.
I'd like to thank my physiotherapist for enabling me to grip a handsewing needle and the fabric so that I could do all this horrible basting so that I can do some annoying ironing so that I can get to the SEWING part of this. My hands ache but I can rest for a while now. #Sewing #SewingWhileDisabled
To sew near the edge of the folded seam, I set the needle over to the left -- when I try to sew a fold like this with the needle centred, the right hand side of the presser foot often picks the edge of the fold up slightly. This way stops that.
I'm removing basting stitches with tweezers because my own fingertips won't grasp the thread.
By the time this shirt is finished it's going to be so handled and crumpled that it will look like it's been slept in. #SewingWhileDisabled #Sewing
I'm trying to figure out how to make the collar. I don't understand. It's complicated and I don't like it. Why did I decide to make a shirt? Why am I sewing at all? I should go and sit in a cave and eat berries.
Ohhhhhh, clipping the CORNERS. That's actually kind of magically necessary. I'm stopping for now because the next bit is clipping all the seams and pressing, and I'm a million times too tired. And I think I want the big ironing board, not the little sleeve board I've used for most of the "press one seam" stuff.
My first hand-sewn buttonhole. I used Nicole Rudolph's recent video and it works. For my first one I used a very stable weave cambric, but I'm going to practice on the terrifying slithery linen too. The shirt only needs six buttonholes total so that's ok.
#Sewing #Buttonholes
https://youtu.be/Z6C4DUW0bho
#Sewing #Buttonholes
https://youtu.be/Z6C4DUW0bho
The Ultimate Guide to Hand Sewing Buttonholes
Ok I think this is going to be a shirt one day. It needs quite a lot of work but it's basically going to function as a garment.
I've started: got out the big ironing board and I'm now ironing a bit, clipping seams a bit, ironing a bit, clipping seams a bit. It'll probably be fine. All the grey basting is coming out. It'll probably be fine. What's the worst that can happen? I wish I hadn't thought that. #sewing
Many thanks to @elfkin for his advice on how to achieve sleeve. This is the armpit of the shirt, where two felled seams cross over each other and I sang hymns of praise to my walking foot, which I got in September 2020 and have never regretted.
I did recently buy a felling foot, on Chris's advice, but it was completely unsuited to this job so I haven't used it properly yet. Wrong fabric. #Sewing
I finished the shirt. It's a little short so I'll make it longer in future, but it's GREAT. I'm so pleased with it. The linen is much too drapey and soft for the pattern but it's a functional garment and all the internal seams finished nicely so the wearer is almost completely unaware of the clo once clothed. #Sewing
I have found an old sheet with which to line a curtain so tomorrow I'll make a curtain. Yay!
I made that curtain yesterday, which was straightforward except for the metal eyelets at the top, and today I'm hoping to make a dress or a top in ace flag stripes. I'm a little concerned about the pattern matching but it might be fine. I may have to make the sleeves out of plain purple or black. #Sewing #Asexual
I have gone downstairs and made people help me clear the paperwork and tech debris off the dining table. This will be the first project for which I have more than an A1 sized space for drawing and cutting. I'm really looking forward to it. I have to match stripes so space will REALLY help.
I just need to wait until after lunch. Dining, after all. #Sewing
I've traced the pattern and laid the main bits out on the fabric to prove I can match the stripes. I'm now resting before cutting the fabric.#Sewing
It's so much easier to cut out when the whole piece fits on the surface at once. OMG. #Sewing
Today I started by stitching the cut ends of three new pieces of fabric so that they don't fray when we wash them at 90C to pre-shrink before making them up into anything. #Sewing
I have also stay-stitched the neck and arm holes on the dress pieces and started pinning the long seams, matching the stripes, but I've ground to a halt because I remembered pockets. I need to make and place pockets now, not add them in later.
I am not the most sensible person. I have pattern-matched the stripes on the pockets so that if they are turned inside out it will look stripy. Before I even start on the sleeves. *whimper*.
Chose thread colour, pinned things, did NOT attempt to pattern match the stripes on the sleeves, now I'm at the stage of actually SEWING. Wish me luck.
Pausing to eat but the pockets are done, the side seams are fauxverlocked, the neckline is finished, and I've hemmed one sleeve. I've lost my needle threader so tidying the threads on that hem will have to wait. I still need to hem the other sleeve and the skirt.
(I gave my spare needle threader to the offspring teaching themselves bookbinding, because of course I did.)
Almost all hemming done, all that's left tomorrow is a bit of thread tidying. I can do all that by hand without clearing my sewing space (boxes of fabric and piles of haberdashery live on the chair and table beside the sewing machine, and move to the bed for me to use it).
I finished the dress! It's Ellie and Mac Slow Sunday dress with mid-scoop neckline, fuller skirt, and short sleeves. I added the pockets to the pattern myself because they were inexplicably omitted by the designer.
I was going to make the high neckline but it would have needed a complete Full Bust Adjustment, whereas with the mid scoop neckline it just needs a decent bra.
After finishing the dress, and eating a curry while wearing a white shirt, and rinsing the white shirt in cold water and putting stain remover on it, I ironed five metres of 150cm wide linen. That's enough for today.
Ironed 3m of 1.5m wide shirting cotton. Lying down now. But there's only one big piece of newly acquired fabric left to iron.
Today I looked again at the princess-seam, button-front top/dress I'm trying to adapt. I learned things since I last looked at it and I'm going to do slightly bolder adjustments before giving up entirely and finding a new starting point. #Sewing https://mastodon.art/@artbyailbhe/110300145057261071
Ailbhe (@[email protected])
Attached: 1 image Stage one, the bust alteration is good. Next, waist alteration, I think.
So today I avoided adjusting the top by starting on a pincushion I can wear on a finger so it's handy when I'm fitting things or ironing things.
Long long ago, when I made facemasks, the fabric layout resulted in a lot of same-shape scraps. I kept them because they looked like leaves or feathers or something. #Sewing #ScrapBusting
I pinned some together and with 2.5mm seam allowances it takes eight to make a ball. And obviously a flat ball is a flower.
When I sew, I put my thread offcuts into a little bag clipped near my sewing machine. Very tiny snippets of fabric go in there too. Only 100% natural fibres though, because of the reasons.
I got my cardboard bobbins of old basting thread, which I save for handsewing, and started stuffing and quilting the ball. #Sewing #ScrapBusting
I finished my pincushion! Now we find out if it's better than holding everything in my mouth until I get back to a table. #Sewing
Yesterday I went back to this top. I slit all the seams from hem to under the bust, and pinned wildly. I clipped a few curves to make things work better. Today I'm going to sew up the amendments and have a think.
https://mastodon.art/@artbyailbhe/110300145057261071
https://mastodon.art/@artbyailbhe/110300145057261071
Ailbhe (@[email protected])
Attached: 1 image Stage one, the bust alteration is good. Next, waist alteration, I think.
I started by sewing yesterday's modifications and taking photos so I could see. It's basically the right size -- the places where it was much too big have been almost eliminated. After taking these photos I spent the rest of my sewing session trying to fix the shape of the bust, but I stopped before I got tired enough to make mistakes. Even before modifying today, it fit the various essential measurements well enough to allow for following my basic shape and allowing movement, breathing etc.
I did wake up tired today so it was all very slow. But that's an #mecfs thing, not the fault of the garment.
I've started today by unpicking the seams either side of the back panel, from the hem to near the armscye, and pinning to make it slightly wider across the hips. I think that will remove the triangle in the small of my back. But I'm expecting to need additional fabric, not just what's in the original pieces, so I'll try this on pinned rather than baste. When I can stand, I mean. #Sewing
I pinned the back again and I think this works. I definitely think this works well enough to attempt to make a new pattern. So now I'm going to iron it to eradicate my pen marks and then go over both sides of every seam with marker, unpick it, and trace it.
... first I'm sorting my scraps of tracing paper on case any will be useful
I had used orange frixion pen to mark the fabric as I was pinning it etc so I used black to trace along all the basted seams on both sides before unpicking them.
Then I could lay the fabric flat under my tracing paper, and copy the new black seams in orange. And finally I used the original pattern under the newly traced one to see how different it is -- very. #Sewing
Truly I can procrastinate this process forever. I know doing this work now will lead to years of blissful clothes-making but I want to skip this step.
Yesterday I transferred the pattern to paper and cut the pieces out, but today I realised that I'd been so tired I skipped all the marks, and also I'd cut the edge furthest from me really poorly, so today I fixed that and started assembling. I'm again really tired so I didn't get much done. #Sewing
I did it! It's not ironed but I'm so pleased with myself. I want to finish it off now -- seams and neckline and buttons -- but I'm satisfied that my paper pattern is good enough.
After taking these photos I had a phonecall in the warmest bit of my space before changing out of it and now the underarms are a bit ick. I'm going to rinse them in cold water and then finish sewing. #Sewing
I'm going to try to design a sleeve. The sleeve head in the sheet at the back of "The Collins Complete Book of NEEDLECRAFT" (1981) is about the right size to start with, and there's a diagram of how to change the shapes inside.
EllenInEdmonton 
@artbyailbhe
Super cute! Well done to have the patience and the skills to figure out the exact pattern/style that works for you! I intend to figure out a bodice like that but there are always projects that are more fun which get in the way.
Super cute! Well done to have the patience and the skills to figure out the exact pattern/style that works for you! I intend to figure out a bodice like that but there are always projects that are more fun which get in the way.
Chris 🏳️🌈🧵🧝🏼@artbyailbhe This looks great!!!
Alex@artbyailbhe cool fabric!
@artbyailbhe
Isn't that maddening when you have a perfectly functional garment except that there is one (or more) fitting point that isn't quite right? Not sure if I'm yet ready to sort out exactly where my darts, armscyes, and necklines should go. Someday.
Isn't that maddening when you have a perfectly functional garment except that there is one (or more) fitting point that isn't quite right? Not sure if I'm yet ready to sort out exactly where my darts, armscyes, and necklines should go. Someday.
@EllenInEdmonton if I get the fit right I can make tops and dresses in multiple flavours
@artbyailbhe
Same! I just need a pretty solid block of sewing time before I'll be willing to do something like multiple muslin trials. They're not very fun but they can certainly lead to something pretty awesome.
The 2 garments I'll make multiple iterations of are the #AshtonTop and #HinterlandDress. Getting close on the top.
Same! I just need a pretty solid block of sewing time before I'll be willing to do something like multiple muslin trials. They're not very fun but they can certainly lead to something pretty awesome.
The 2 garments I'll make multiple iterations of are the #AshtonTop and #HinterlandDress. Getting close on the top.
Affienia@artbyailbhe that’s beautiful.
@Affienia thank you! It is RIDICULOUS to pattern match pocket linings but VERY satisfying.
@artbyailbhe not gonna lie, I found that bit very satisfying.
Sarcastra@artbyailbhe oooh, those stripey seams make my heart do an extra pitter-pat!
@Sarcastra pocket linings. Absolute silliness but very satisfying. My mother thinks I'm quite mad.
@artbyailbhe well, I am with you and pleased for this.
Rachel Wright@artbyailbhe Beautifully matched stripes!
@virtuosew imagine having stripes that clear and having to look at them unmatched afterwards
@artbyailbhe I know, but achieving the result still takes doing!