AilbheI do think the instructions that came with this free pattern make me disinclined to buy any patterns from these people, which is sad.
https://mastodon.art/@artbyailbhe/109874367672931136
Ailbhe (@[email protected])
Attached: 1 image Here's my pattern pieces. I'm about to watch the video again with my pencils and scissors.
I'm doing two adjustments to this princess seam bodice. Lowering the bust point and a "full bust" adjustment. It'll be fine. I just ran out of sticky tape.
Copied out the new pattern, pinned it to the disassembled mockup, going to recut and make a new mockup. I'll have to piece a tiny bit on the side seam but I prefer that to wasting new fabric.
Tried again. I needed new fabric for the two front sides but the other pieces of the top came from the larger size pieces. They're pinned ready for sewing now.
I'm altering the waist a tiny bit at a time using brightly coloured thread and fitting it inside out to check. This is where the gingham comes into its own -- the squares make it easy to be sure I'm mirroring changes accurately. I hope it makes it as easy to transfer to the paper pattern.
I think I need to alter the shape of the centre back panel. Ngh.
Very little sewing for two weeks - I did a little mending because of# #MeMadeMay2023 but mainly I've been avoiding the further adjustments I need to make to this top.
So today I've started cutting out another Ellie and Mac sleeveless dress with built-in shelf bra. #Sewing
While I was procrastinating I used a sample of William Morris upholstery fabric to patch my ancient needlecord trousers, and made a phone pouch for a friend to attach to a bag I made ages ago.
Ok I'm going to assemble this dress. If I can find the instructions, though I think I remember how it works without them. It's a purple version of the blue one I made before. #Sewing
The only surface large enough to lay a dress on is the bed, and bending over that to pin and place pockets is absolutely agony on my back.
I've been cutting the main fabric, lining fabric, interfacing, batting, and stabilizer for a bag/art caddy. It's taken days and days. I'm hoping that tomorrow I can start sewing it. But I'm almost certain I'll have to iron things first. I didn't want an ironing hobby. #sewing
Today I ironed the interfacing onto bits and now I have to hand-sew the next part: basting the batting to the fabric and interfacing. I'm taking lots of breaks but it's really painful and I've only done one piece. #SewingWhileDisabled
Basted a further three pieces so far today. Really really need a break now. And a sewing needle with a big grippable end that doesn't make a correspondingly big hole in the fabric. It's probably quantum.
Next I have to do both "Ironing" and "Basting and sewing things in a very specific order so the overlapping pockets work" and I donwanna.
I've done a lot more now and I've decided that their (the pattern writer) finishing isn't up to scratch and next time I'll do nicer hems than instructed and also line ALL the pockets.
... Oh good, I'm going to be unable to proceed until I unpick some seams and fix the issue where the pattern doesn't call for some bits to be lined but I want them lined.
I've unpicked them and chosen the lining fabric so now I need to do some... ironing. In the words of our lord and saviour Radiohead, I do it to myself, I do.
I did it! The pockets will all be nicely lined. It's better this way. I will put the other pockets on lined as a FIRST option and not have to unpick anything.
This project has reached the stage where all instructions resort to "now draw the rest of the owl." I have to sew this into a box but there's no information on how to get the corners into the machine -- each panel is at least three layers, more at the sides where the pockets reach the bottom, and the bottom corners are DENSE.
50% My God, it's full of stars! and 50% I'm sorry Dave, I can't do that. Time for a break.
This is a Learning Experience. (1) I can't cut out with scissors and need to stick to the roller blades. (2) I have two loop turners but for straps with interfacing inside I need to go back to the safety pin method, which I got good at when my mother was sewing scrunchies for her market stalls at various times. #sewing
Aaaaaaand stopping for the day. Turning it right way out shows me where I need to redo some of the MAJOR STRUCTURAL SEAMS because I didn't catch all the layers. *whimpers*
Basting by hand is easier and quicker to remove BUT basting by machine is much less painful and the time saved in sewing is much greater than the time lost in unpicking.
I'm annoyed at the waste in this pattern. For each of the front, back, sides, and base, you cut a piece of outer fabric, interfacing, batting, stabiliser, and lining fabric. And then at the end it says to cut 1 cm from every edge of every piece of stabiliser before inserting it. You could just cut the pieces 2cm shorter and narrower to begin with.
And one of the pockets has interfacing you cut in half and throw half away, because the fabric is folded over the half you use. It seems ridiculous.
So this is for an English teacher and first I thought I'd put three novels in A Handbag and then the whole idea evolved but ALSO it's definitely looking at the stars so really I think I should just be glad I didn't buy any guttering. It's three books in a bag and nobody needs to know it came from Wilde ideas. #Sewing
Starting something new today. I've unfolded my big table and extended it by putting an A1 drawing board on top. It's fine as long as I don't lean on the edges. And now I'm cutting the paper pattern and reading the instructions.
So far, it seems really good. Lots of helpful notation for how to cut out and assemble for best results. I expect this to teach me much more than I thought it would about making a shirt. #Sewing
This is the first time I've drawn a thread but the instructions (first image) are very clear so I'm following them. The linen I'm working with is shoddily spun so the thread kept pulling apart, rather than breaking -- like teasing cotton wool apart. But I managed in the end so now I have a straight edge for my fabric. It was extremely wonky before. #Sewing
I've ironed the pattern and half the fabric on a towel on my tabletop so we'll see how we go.
I've cut the back piece. The instructions include detailed notes on how to mark up the fabric so I'm hoping to rest my hands and then give it a go. #Sewing
I'm pausing for dinner, watching Rick Astley at Glastonbury, and eating spaghetti with tomato based sauce on my cutting surface because there is nowhere else in this room to sit or to put a plate. That's white linen.
I'm now unpinning the paper pattern from each piece one at a time, checking I've transferred markings as I go, and sewing each stage in strict order of instructions. Because my fabric has no right or wrong side I've already made an error. I've topstitched the wrong side of the yoke so the pleats for ease are wrong. Unpicker time. #Sewing
I fixed that, but the next stages involve ironing, for which I will have to stand, so I'm having a break.
I've ironed the yoke seams and topstitched them down, and stay-stitched and basted all around the neckline and armscyes, and lost my sewing machine manual, and fixed the issue with repeatedly breaking thread by replacing the needle with a finer one. I think I was using a jeans needle. Oops.
Next time I make a shirt I'll use a more rigid fabric or starch it first or both. This is excessively drapey.
I've attached the facings to the sleeve turnups and realised I should have trimmed the seams inside the yoke before I sewed the shoulders on. Oops. Too late now. If it's terrible I can add Decorative Topstitching to hold them in place. I'll remember next time. But I've just done ironing so I'm resting again.
The sleeves are ready to pin - baste - sew to the shirt but this will involve finding a large surface and then basting by hand, so I'm going to wait until tomorrow. I'm tired enough that I might make ridiculous mistakes.
The instructions say at one point to baste everything and try it on and then sew, but I think that might only apply to the side seams?
The sleeves are attached to the shoulders. Next I need to press those seams, trim, and fell them. I can't figure out what that's going to be like; there are five layers where the yoke is attached to the front or back, and that's going to be folded over inside?! But lots of men's shirts actually exist, so it must be POSSIBLE.
Oh dear, ironing really does help, I resent this fact so much. I also need to figure out how to baste fabric that's slithering like an overexcited toddler covered in sunscreen they squirted on themselves.
I'd like to thank my physiotherapist for enabling me to grip a handsewing needle and the fabric so that I could do all this horrible basting so that I can do some annoying ironing so that I can get to the SEWING part of this. My hands ache but I can rest for a while now. #Sewing #SewingWhileDisabled
To sew near the edge of the folded seam, I set the needle over to the left -- when I try to sew a fold like this with the needle centred, the right hand side of the presser foot often picks the edge of the fold up slightly. This way stops that.
I'm removing basting stitches with tweezers because my own fingertips won't grasp the thread.
By the time this shirt is finished it's going to be so handled and crumpled that it will look like it's been slept in. #SewingWhileDisabled #Sewing
I'm trying to figure out how to make the collar. I don't understand. It's complicated and I don't like it. Why did I decide to make a shirt? Why am I sewing at all? I should go and sit in a cave and eat berries.
Ohhhhhh, clipping the CORNERS. That's actually kind of magically necessary. I'm stopping for now because the next bit is clipping all the seams and pressing, and I'm a million times too tired. And I think I want the big ironing board, not the little sleeve board I've used for most of the "press one seam" stuff.
My first hand-sewn buttonhole. I used Nicole Rudolph's recent video and it works. For my first one I used a very stable weave cambric, but I'm going to practice on the terrifying slithery linen too. The shirt only needs six buttonholes total so that's ok.
#Sewing #Buttonholes
https://youtu.be/Z6C4DUW0bho
#Sewing #Buttonholes
https://youtu.be/Z6C4DUW0bho
The Ultimate Guide to Hand Sewing Buttonholes
Ok I think this is going to be a shirt one day. It needs quite a lot of work but it's basically going to function as a garment.
I've started: got out the big ironing board and I'm now ironing a bit, clipping seams a bit, ironing a bit, clipping seams a bit. It'll probably be fine. All the grey basting is coming out. It'll probably be fine. What's the worst that can happen? I wish I hadn't thought that. #sewing
Many thanks to @elfkin for his advice on how to achieve sleeve. This is the armpit of the shirt, where two felled seams cross over each other and I sang hymns of praise to my walking foot, which I got in September 2020 and have never regretted.
I did recently buy a felling foot, on Chris's advice, but it was completely unsuited to this job so I haven't used it properly yet. Wrong fabric. #Sewing
I finished the shirt. It's a little short so I'll make it longer in future, but it's GREAT. I'm so pleased with it. The linen is much too drapey and soft for the pattern but it's a functional garment and all the internal seams finished nicely so the wearer is almost completely unaware of the clo once clothed. #Sewing
I have found an old sheet with which to line a curtain so tomorrow I'll make a curtain. Yay!
I made that curtain yesterday, which was straightforward except for the metal eyelets at the top, and today I'm hoping to make a dress or a top in ace flag stripes. I'm a little concerned about the pattern matching but it might be fine. I may have to make the sleeves out of plain purple or black. #Sewing #Asexual
I have gone downstairs and made people help me clear the paperwork and tech debris off the dining table. This will be the first project for which I have more than an A1 sized space for drawing and cutting. I'm really looking forward to it. I have to match stripes so space will REALLY help.
I just need to wait until after lunch. Dining, after all. #Sewing
I've traced the pattern and laid the main bits out on the fabric to prove I can match the stripes. I'm now resting before cutting the fabric.#Sewing
It's so much easier to cut out when the whole piece fits on the surface at once. OMG. #Sewing
Today I started by stitching the cut ends of three new pieces of fabric so that they don't fray when we wash them at 90C to pre-shrink before making them up into anything. #Sewing
I have also stay-stitched the neck and arm holes on the dress pieces and started pinning the long seams, matching the stripes, but I've ground to a halt because I remembered pockets. I need to make and place pockets now, not add them in later.
I am not the most sensible person. I have pattern-matched the stripes on the pockets so that if they are turned inside out it will look stripy. Before I even start on the sleeves. *whimper*.
Chose thread colour, pinned things, did NOT attempt to pattern match the stripes on the sleeves, now I'm at the stage of actually SEWING. Wish me luck.
Pausing to eat but the pockets are done, the side seams are fauxverlocked, the neckline is finished, and I've hemmed one sleeve. I've lost my needle threader so tidying the threads on that hem will have to wait. I still need to hem the other sleeve and the skirt.
(I gave my spare needle threader to the offspring teaching themselves bookbinding, because of course I did.)
Almost all hemming done, all that's left tomorrow is a bit of thread tidying. I can do all that by hand without clearing my sewing space (boxes of fabric and piles of haberdashery live on the chair and table beside the sewing machine, and move to the bed for me to use it).
ashley@artbyailbhe friday afternoon i stopped at goodwill for an iron as it somehow got lost in the move, and also a lamp for sewing, and they had a huge 3x6 foot desk for $30, which i bought instantly. worked great for cutting that night! and now i’m sitting at it with my work laptop, instead of at the awkward plastic 2x4 foot table that folds in half.
@rabcyr we have almost exactly the average amount of space per person for people living in Britain, and we've already filled it too much for another table. BUT I might be able to persuade them to let me at the dining table again.
@artbyailbhe we went from a 300 sq ft travel trailer to a 2100 sq ft home. 4 people, 1 dog. tons of space! this desk is all mine!
@rabcyr we're 5 people in almost 1000sqft. Which is about average. Unlike 300sqft/4, which is not.
@artbyailbhe that can be pretty tight, especially if it’s an apartment and you don’t have your own outdoor space. number of rooms can be more important than overall space, as well. we have the perfect amount of rooms, but the house could be 500 sq ft smaller overall and it’d be better, as less to heat and cool!
@rabcyr it's a 12-foot-wide mid-terrace which we converted the attic of, and we do have a garden. So it's 4 bedrooms and 1-2 reception, because there's folding doors, which is useful. What I'm most pleased about is that when we had the building work done we got toilets on every floor. These houses were built in 1899 and the plumbing was all at the back on the ground floor, because the toilets were originally just outside the back door.
@artbyailbhe sounds neat! american homes and apartments since like idk the 70s are horribly prone to bad layout. so there’s lot of space, but a good hunk is just awkward to use.
@rabcyr a neighbour with 2 teenagers advised us not to just knock the two downstairs rooms into one because they'd done that and later rebuilt the wall. So we have folding doors.
@artbyailbhe we bought a travel trailer with a separate bedroom/lounge for the kids with its own real door, and real doors on our bedroom at the other end. there’s really only one layout like that, and even the ones larger than ours aren’t conducive to more than 2 people full time.
housing standards for mental well-being only care about room count (0.75 people per room, iirc).
CatFitz@artbyailbhe
Congratulations on persisting. It looks beautifully made. Sewing is often a series of problem solving challenges.
Congratulations on persisting. It looks beautifully made. Sewing is often a series of problem solving challenges.
@catfitz TBH the seams at the cuffs are slightly grimy from handling because the whole thing was A Learning Experience but I'm pleased.
@artbyailbhe
That will wash out. The very soft drape looks beautiful.
When we sew, it can be very hard to see beyond all our small (mistakes?) and see how amazing the final garment is. Be very proud of your effort.
That will wash out. The very soft drape looks beautiful.
When we sew, it can be very hard to see beyond all our small (mistakes?) and see how amazing the final garment is. Be very proud of your effort.
Charlotte Walker@artbyailbhe @marianarte Oh that’s so great!
Ailbhe
Lord Kelvin@artbyailbhe
Fantastic.
I'd like to also point out that the shirts I have similar to this, I wear un-tucked (for which a shorter length is fine). They're warm weather wear, and I have suspenders which are designed to be worn beneath a shirt, not over. The advantage being that I don't like a belt when it's hot. Loose waist means less chafing.
@kelvin0mql oh this will be untucked as soon as he moves. But when I use the pattern for winter shirts they'll have to be longer.
Oh, totally agree. Else the belt buckle grabs belly hairs, then standing up can be an unpleasant surprise. LOL
Chris@artbyailbhe Hooray for walking feet and beautiful unions of seams!
@elfkin This whole thing has taught me a lot, mainly about *not using the wrong fabric*. But I'm going to buy more of this fabric for a nightie because in a heatwave it will be lovely. And a nightie can be basically a sack so no finicky seams.
@artbyailbhe Live the dream!
@elfkin without any seams or needlework
Crafty Jo@artbyailbhe It looks like a collar to me
EllenInEdmonton 
@artbyailbhe
Very nice! Fortunately for me, I don't feel drawn to wear collared shirts so it's a skill I don't feel compelled to acquire. They look perfectly nice on other people, though!
Very nice! Fortunately for me, I don't feel drawn to wear collared shirts so it's a skill I don't feel compelled to acquire. They look perfectly nice on other people, though!
@EllenInEdmonton I first wanted to make it and then found someone willing to wear it. I don't always enjoy all the parts of the learning process but it's usually good to have learned something.
@artbyailbhe
I agree that learning is a very important part of the process and it's a big part of taking on sewing. However, I currently have a LOT of skills to adequately learn, just to create the wardrobe I want to wear so I'm not currently attempting add-ons like collars, buttonholes, or zippers. Quite possibly, I'll try those at a future date.
I agree that learning is a very important part of the process and it's a big part of taking on sewing. However, I currently have a LOT of skills to adequately learn, just to create the wardrobe I want to wear so I'm not currently attempting add-ons like collars, buttonholes, or zippers. Quite possibly, I'll try those at a future date.
@EllenInEdmonton I have enough clothes so everything I make is just because I want to.
@artbyailbhe
I'll get there but Ihaven't arrived yet.
I'll get there but Ihaven't arrived yet.
NullNoMore@artbyailbhe - you got this go go go (slowly because irons etc)
@NullNoMore yes! Also with lots of resting because mecfs.
Adopted Geordie@artbyailbhe Ooh. Thanks for that link. I’ve tried hand sewn ones several times so far without much success. Yours looks super neat so I am inspired to have another go.
@sortofgeordie she is SO easy to follow. I watched it through once, assembled my stuff, and had a go hitting pause and play as I followed along until I got the hang of it.
Sarah E Bourne@artbyailbhe I use a crochet hook with a very small hook - it's so easy to hang onto, and you can just press the thread against it with a finger if it needs a bit of a tug.