'Leave them alone': Expert shares how to stay safe after rabid bats found in Brantford, Centre Wellington
Two rabid bats were found in Ontario recently. One was at a Brantford daycare, which has since reopened. Another was in Centre Wellington where a person was treated for potential exposure. Western University Professor Emeritus Brock Fen...
#animal #safety #health #disease #Brantford #CentreWellington
https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/kitchener-waterloo/rabid-bats-brock-fenton-1.7613019?cmp=rss

Better Living Through Chemistry | Picking Your Developers

Developing your film at home is both rewarding and frustrating at the same time and to add on an extra layer of complexity there is a lot of developers out there that you can use, especially in the black & white field. While certainly not as much as there used to be, there is still an excellent selection of developers to suit almost every person's need, without having to dive deep into building your developers from base chemicals. Ultimately every photographer has a different taste but if you're starting out with home development the choices may seem a little overwhelming so I'll be breaking down the different characteristics you may look for in your developing and what I feel are the best choices for each characteristic.

General Purpose Developing
While there is always a temptation to dive right into the exotic, I have found it best to get your feet wet with a bit of boring, the idea behind a good general purpose developer is that it doesn't do anything beyond developing your film and letting you explore what your films can do first before altering it through changes in exposure and development. These developers often come in large volumes and allow for development using a stock dilution to help maximise the number of rolls you can develop in a kit. The first one in this mix is the old favourite, Kodak D-76. D-76 along with the various clones available including Flic Film Classic MQ, Ilford ID-11, FPP's Dalzell76, and many others comes in either a 1 gallon or 1 liter volume and offers up use as a reusable stock solution or you can dilute it down to 1+1 or 1+2 into a one-shot developer. In all cases, this developer will handle a good 90-95% of your development needs and can even offer up some use for push and pull development. And there is almost a development time for every B&W film available today and even in the past.

Mamiya m645 - Mamiya-Sekor C 1:2.8 f=80mm - Kodak Tri-X 400 @ ASA-200 - Ilford ID-11 (Stock) 6:00 @ 20CRolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Kodak TMax 100 @ ASA-100 - Kodak D-76 (1+1) 9:30 @ 20CNikon FE - AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 - Kodak Tri-X 400 @ ASA-400 - Flic Film Classic MQ (1+1) 9:30 @ 20CRolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Rollei RPX 400 @ ASA-400 - Kodak D-76 (Stock) 8:00 @ 20CKyocera Contax G2 - Carl Zeiss Biogon 28/2,8 T* - Rollei RPX 25 @ ASA-25 - Kodak D-76 (1+1) 8:00 @ 20C

Second on my list for a good general purpose developer is Ilford Ilfosol 3, despite the drawbacks this is an excellent choice when starting with home developing. The developer comes in a liquid concentrate that is easy to work with and takes little effort to pour and mix. You only have two dilution options 1+9 and 1+14 that will both produce similar results it all depends on how many rolls of film you have to develop. Ilfosol 3 can only be used as a one-shot developer and it oxidises far quicker than other liquid developers. That means that you will want to shoot all your film and then run through to bottle as quickly as possible. Alternatively you can use canned air to help displace any oxygen or use glass marbles to keep the volume up. You also have a tonne of options for developing film with most modern film stocks having a listed time.

Nikon FG - Nikon Series E 50mm 1:1.8 - Ilford Pan F+ @ ASA-50 - Ilford Ilfosol 3 (1+14) 4:30 @ 20CHasselblad 500c - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Rollei RPX 100 @ ASA-100 - Ilford Ilfosol 3 (1+9) 5:00 @ 20CPentax 645 - SMC Pentax A 645 35mm 1:3.5 - Ilford Delta 100 @ ASA-100 - Ilford Ilfosol 3 (1+14) 2:50 @ 28CKyocera Contax G2 - Carl Zeiss Planar 2/45 T* - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Ilfosol 3 (1+14) 7:30 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm 1:2.8G - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-400 - Ilford Ilfosol 3 (1+3) 5:00 @ 20C

And the third choice I have for general purpose developing is Adox FX-39 II, I first discovered this developer several years ago and it quickly became a fast favourite. This is another liquid concentrate that has only two dilutions available and is easily mixed into a one-shot working solution and in both cases they produce similar results so it all depends on how economical you want to be with your bottle. It also has a longer shelf life than Ilfosol 3, I've had one bottle go for a year and still was running strong by the time I drained the concentrate. The one thing that FX-39 II has that the previous two do not is a set of universal times for films exposed at box speed if there isn't a listed time. But don't worry, there is a lot of listed times available for the developer.

Rolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Adox CHS 100 II @ ASA-80 - Adox FX-39 II (1+9) 7:30 @ 20CMinolta Dynax 600si Classic - Minolta Maxxum AF 28mm 1:2.8 - Agfa Silvertone @ ASA-400 - Adox FX-39II (1+9) 10:00 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)Nikon F5 - AF Nikkor 85mm 1:1.8D - Ilford Delta 100 @ ASA-100 - Adox FX-39 II (1+9) 7:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF Nikkor 24mm 1:2.8 - Ilford Delta 400 @ ASA-400 - Adox FX-39 II (1+9) 9:30 @ 20CMinolta Maxxum 9 - Minolta Maxxum AF 28-135mm 1:4-4.5 - Kosmo Foto Agent Shadow @ ASA-400 - Adox FX-39 II (1+9) 10:30 @ 20C

Sharpness
Sharpness is both overrated and highly valued in the photography field, it's a bit of a buzz word. That being said there are several excellent options out there to help improve your film's sharpness. While sharpness can holistically mean a combination of edge sharpness and tonal contrast, these developers are used strictly to increase the edge sharpness of your images. The downside is that it will also increase the visible grain. The number one choice from anyone in this field is Rodinal, these days you can get it under several different names, Adox carries the copyright for the Rodinal name but in Canada we have the best clone, Blazinal. Rodinal can be used one of two ways, the first as a standard developer using either a 1+25 and 1+50 dilution for one-shot or you can stand-develop the film in a 1+100 or 1+200 dilution for either 1 hour or 2 hours respectively. While many people would avoid using Rodinal with faster films, I find that it does work well with both slow films that are already sharp, mid-speed films in the same vein and even faster films.

Hasselblad 500c - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Kodak Tri-X 400 @ ASA-200 - Blazinal (1+25) 7:00 @ 20CNikon F90 - AF Nikkor 35mm 1:2D - Bergger Pancro 400 @ ASA-800 - Blazinal (1+25) 13:00 @ 20CHasselblad 500c - Carl Zeiss Distagon 50mm 1:4 - Rollei RPX 25 @ ASA-25 - Blazinal (1+50) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - CatLABS X Film 320 Pro @ ASA-320 - Adox Rodinal (1+25) 9:00 @ 20CMamiya m645 - Mamiya-Sekor C 45mm 1:2.8 N - Ilford Ortho Plus @ ASA-80 - Blazinal (1+50) 15:00 @ 20C

Next on my list for increasing the edge sharpness of your film is Ilford Perceptol. While not necessarily a sharp developer, it does an excellent job in increasing sharpness while keeping visible grain under control. Perceptol is mixed from powder into a stock solution which you can use as a reusable developer (4 rolls per liter) or as a one-shot diluted either 1+1 or 1+3. It isn't the most economical developer either way as it is only available in a 1 liter kit. This is also the developer that does wonders with almost every film that you develop with it, the one thing you will notice in some cases is that you will have a bit of speed loss with faster films.

Pentax K1000 - SMC Pentax 55mm 1:2 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-320 - Ilford Perceptol (1+1) 18:00 @ 20CRolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Kodak Tri-X 400 (400TX) @ ASA-320 - Ilford Perceptol (1+1) 12:00 @ 20CMinolta Maxxum 9 - Minolta Maxxum AF 50mm 1:1.4 - Fujifilm Neopan Acros 100 @ ASA-80 - Ilford Perceptol (1+1) 13:00 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)Pentax 645 - SMC Pentax A 645 35mm 1:3.5 - Ilford Delta 100 @ ASA-50 - Ilford Perceptol (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CHasselblad 500c - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Rollei RPX 25 @ ASA-25 - Ilford Perceptol (1+1) 10:00 @ 20C

On the rarer end of the spectrum there's SPUR HRX. SPUR is known for producing developers designed for increased sharpness and resolution and HRX certainly fits the bill. I mean there name is short for Speed Photography, Ultra Resolution and HRX is for High-Resolution X. Now the one thing that might turn people off of HRX other than sourcing the chemisty is that it's a two-part developer with a single dilution. So there's a bit of math involved by dividing the amount of concentrate in two. And HRX will hand down some amazingly sharp images but on faster films there is a speed loss and an uptick in visible grain.

New Mamiya 6 - Mamiya G 1:3.5 f=75mm L - Kodak Tri-X 400 @ ASA-250 - SPUR HRX (1+17) 10:00 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)Canon EOS Elan IIe - Canon Lens EF 50mm 1:1.8 - Oriental Seagull 400 @ ASA-400 - SPUR HRX (1+13) 12:30 (Constant Rotation)Rolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 (Yellow-12) - Fomapan 100 @ ASA-100 - SPUR HRX (1+20) 11:00 @ 20CRolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - FPP Frankenstein 200 @ ASA-125 - SPUR HRX (1+17) 7:45 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)Zeiss Ikon Contax IIIa - Zeiss Opton Sonnar 1:1,5 f=50mm - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-100 - SPUR HRX (1+20) 9:30 @ 20C

Fine-Grain
On the opposite end of the spectrum there's fine-grain developers. These are ones that are designed to reduce the amount of visible grain. Now in the past this has often resulted in a loss of edge sharpness but most modern developers are a balance of retaining sharpness while reducing the amount of visible grain. Number one on my list is Ilford Microphen. Microphen, a cousin to Perceptol does an excellent job with reducing grain while maintaining decent edge sharpness and controlling contrast. It can be used as both a stock reusable solution (up to 10 rolls) or as a one-shot developer in either a 1+1 or 1+3 dilution. This works incredible well in the stock dilution in cutting down grain on some of the worst offenders like Fomapan 400, Fomapan 200, and ORWO N74.

Rolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Rollei Retro 80s @ ASA-80 - Ilford Microphen (Stock) 9:00 @ 20CNikon FM - AI-S Nikkor 105mm 1:2.5 - Fomapan 100 @ ASA-100 - Ilford Microphen (1+1) 9:00 @ 20CMinolta Maxxum 9 - Minolta Maxxum AF 28mm 1:2.8 (Yellow-12) - Ilford Ortho Plus @ ASA-80 - Ilford Microphen (Stock) 9:00 @ 20CMamiya m645 - Mamiya-Sekor C 1:2.8 f=80mm - Lomography Berlin 400 @ ASA-400 - Ilford Microphen (Stock) 7:00 @ 20CNikon FM - AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 - Fomapan 100 @ ASA-100 - Ilford Microphen (1+1) 9:00 @ 20C

Second is the obvious choice, Kodak Xtol. This is the second fine-grain developer released by Kodak and was the final developer to come out of Kodak. You can also find it in several clones including Adox XT-3 and Bellini Foto Eco Developer plus several others. If you do a high-volume of developing then Xtol and XT-3 come in 5 liter volumes. The one thing that stands out for Xtol is that not only does it cut down on the visible grain, it also helps retains some level of edge sharpness. Now recently there were some concerns over the quality of the Xtol developer coming out of Sino Promise, but now that manufacturing has switched back to a US based company there doesn't seem to be the same problem. In all cases you can use the developer in stock form as a reusable developer or dilute it to one-shot in either 1+1 or 1+2 dilutions with only slight changes to how the developer acts.

Nikon FM - AI Nikkor 28mm 1:3.5 - Fomapan 200 @ ASA-200 - Adox XT-3 (Stock) 6:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm 1:2.8G - FPP Mr. Brown @ ASA-6 - Kodak Xtol (stock) 10:30 @ 20CPentax 645 - SMC Pentax A 645 75mm 1:2.8 - Kodak Tri-X Pan (TXP) @ ASA-1250 - Kodak Xtol (Stock) 12:00 @ 20CHasselblad - 500c - Carl Zeiss Distagon 50mm 1:4 - Fuji Acros 100 @ ASA-100 - Kodak Xtol (stock) 8:00 @ 20CRolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-1600 - Bellini EcoFilm (Stock) 11:00 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)

The final choice is an interesting one as it is the developer that Xtol replaced, Kodak Microdol-X. Today you cannot find Microdol-X new, but if you come across a sealed pouch of the stuff then it should still be good! Rather LegacyPro makes a perfect clone of Microdol-X called Mic-X. This can be used three different ways, first is in the stock form where it is a perfect fine-grain developer and reusable but at the cost of reducing some of that edge sharpness. Second in a 1+3 one-shot dilution it does increase edge sharpness and in the third form a 1+1 one-shot dilution it is a balance of both. But even in the stock form with a modern sharp film, you don't see much reduction.

Pacemaker Crown Graphic - Schneider-Krueznack Symmar-S 1:5.6/210 - Kodak Plus-X Pan @ ASA-125 - Kodak Microdol-X (Stock) 8:00 @ 20CMamiya m645 - Mamiya-Sekor C 1:2.8 f=80mm - Fomapan 100 @ ASA-100 - LegacyPro Mic-X (1+1) 9:00 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)Minolta Dynax 600si Classic - Minolta Maxxum AF 24mm 1:2.8 (Yellow-12) - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-25 - LegacyPro Mic-X (1+3) 10:00 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)Canon EOS 3000 - Canon Lens EF 50mm 1:1.8 - Arista EDU.Ultra 200 @ ASA-200 - LegacyPro Mic-X (1+1) 8:30 @ 20CRolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 (Yellow 8) - Kodak TMax 400 @ ASA-400 - LegacyPro Mic-X (Stock) 9:15 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)

Compensating Developers
A compensating developer is such a loaded term which is why I'm putting it in the final spot for this entry. The main reason is that I have already talked about a tonne of different developers that can be considered compensating. Ones like Xtol and Microphen all are in this category. These are developers that will help cut down some of the negative impacts of both push and pull development which compensate for over and under exposure. They also work well with expired films and help reduce grain and cut down on overly contrasty scenes or films. At the top of my list for compensating developers in Diafine. Now Diafine can be hard to acquire today, but there are similar developers being produced, I do believe that Bellini Foto has one and Flic Film has teased at something similar. Diafine is a two-bath developer, meaning you develop the film once in Part A then develop the film a second time in Part B. There is also a standard set of times that if you expose the film at an ideal speed you can develop multiple rolls at multiple speeds at the same time. And the best part is that I've seen good results no matter what film I've used with Diafine. And if you do get your hands on the stuff it tends to last forever.

Minolta Maxxum 9 - Minolta Maxxum AF 24mm 1:2.8 - Eastman Double-X 5222 @ ASA-1600 - Diafine (Stock) 4:00 + 4:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF Nikkor 50mm 1:1.4D - FPP XRay Film @ ASA-400 - Diafine (Stock) 5:00 + 5:00 @ 20CKonica-Minolta Maxxum 70 - Minolta Maxxum AF 50mm 1:1.7- Arista EDU.Ultra 100 @ ASA-200 - Diafine (Stock) 3:00 + 3:00 @ 20CNikon FE2 - AI Nikkor 24mm 1:2.8 (Yellow-12) - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-250 - Diafine (Stock) 3:00 + 3:00 @ 20CMinolta Dynax 600si Classic - Minolta Maxxum AF 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-800 - Diafine (Stock) 3:00 + 3:00 @ 20C

Second on my list might raise some eyebrows but it's Kodak HC-110 along with the various clones including Ilfotec HC and LegacyPro L110. The one thing I like about HC-110 is that you can adjust how the developer can adjust to either help increase contrast or decrease contrast and even get into compensating territory. Now if you're running the stronger dilutions like A (1+15) and B (1+31) it acts more like a general purpose developer. But once you get into more dilute mixes like E (1+47), F (1+79), G (1+119) H (1+63), and even a special 1+90 with a fixed 18 minute time that will develop most B&W films when exposed at box speed. Now many people will turn there nose up at HC-110 these days because of the change of how the developer handles, it works well in Ilfotec HC that behaves similar to the original HC-110.

Minolta XE-7 - Minolta MD W.Rokkor-X 28mm 1:2.8 - Svema FN64 @ ASA-64 - Kodak HC-110 Dil. H 16:00 @ 20CMinolta Maxxum 9 - Konica-Minolta Zoom AF 17-35mm 1:2.8-4 D - Lomography Potsdam 100 @ ASA-100 - Kodak HC-110 Dil. H 7:30 @ 20C>Rolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-400 - Kodak HC-110 Dil. F 12:30 @ 20CKyocera Contax G2 - Carl Zeiss Biogon 2.8/28 T* - Kodak Tri-X 400 @ ASA-400 - Kodak HC-110 Dil. B 4:30 @ 20CKyocera Contax G2 - Carl Zeiss Biogon 2,8/28 T* - Eastman 5363 @ ASA-25 - Kodak HC-110 Dil. G 22:00 @ 20C

And finally there is Zone Imaging 510-Pyro, this is one of my favourite developers to use when I want a good balance between edge-sharpness and fine-grain. Now Pyro developers are not for everyone as there is a lot of extras needed to get the best out of the developer and your negatives. But between all the available pyro developers, 510-Pyro is the easiest to handle. It has only one concentrate and is mixed 90% of the time at a 1+100 dilution. It is thicker than other pyro developers but does have an incredibly long shelf-life. Honestly, I have yet to find a film stock that 510-Pyro doesn't like.

Rolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - CatLABS X Film 320 Pro @ ASA-320 - Zone Imaging 510-Pyro (1+100) 12:15 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)Rolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Adox CHS 100 II @ ASA-80 - Zone Imaging 510-Pyro (1+100) 8:00 @ 20CNikon FE2 - AI Nikkor 24mm 1:2.8 (B+W 092) - FPP BW Infrared @ ASA-200 - Zone Imaging 510-Pyro (1+100) 7:00 @ 20CMinolta Dynax 600si Classic - Minolta Zoom AF 28-80mm 1:4-5.6 - Derev Pan 400 @ ASA-320 - Zone Imaging 510-Pyro (1+100) 10:00 @ 20C (Constant Rotation)Rolleicord Vb (Type-2) - Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 1:3.5/75 - Kosmo Foto Mono 100 @ ASA-100 - Zone Imaging 510-Pyro (1+100) 7:00 @ 20C

Like anything related to photography it all comes down to personal taste. The best thing you can do is to get together a good collection of developers that will suit not only the film stocks you regularly use but also how you want your images to look. There is some wisdom in picking a single developer and film stock, I'm more one who has a set list of films to use for any situation and then picking the right combination. Now this comes from developing my B&W film at home and fine tuning my process, so it will be worthwhile to keep detailed notes so that you know what you like and what you dislike. You can check out all my past developer reviews to help get you started on your development journey.

#musings #adoxchs100ii #adoxfx39ii #adoxrodinal #adoxxt3 #agfasilvertone #antwerp #aristaeduultra100 #aristaeduultra200 #arras #bwdevelopers #bwphotography #belgium #belliniecofilm #berggerpancro400 #blazinal #bobcaygeon #burlington #cambridge #canada #canoneos3000 #canoneoselaniie #catlabsxfilm320pro #centrewellington #chemistry #derevpan400 #developing #diafine #districtofcolumbia #dundas #eastman5363 #eastmandoublex5222 #fergus #flicfilmclassicmq #fomapan100 #fomapan200 #fppbwinfrared #fppfrankenstein200 #fppmrbrown #fppxrayfilm #france #fujifilmneopanacros100 #galt #georgetown #guelph #haltonhills #hamilton #harborsprings #hasselblad500c #homedevelopment #ilforddelta100 #ilforddelta400 #ilfordfp4 #ilfordhp5 #ilfordilfosol3 #ilfordmicrophen #ilfordortho #ilfordpanf #ilfordperceptol #jchstreetpan400 #jerseycity #kawarthalakes #kodakd76 #kodakhc110 #kodakmicrodolx #kodakplusxpan #kodaktmax400 #kodaktrix400 #kodaktrixpan #kodakxtol #kosmofotoagentshadow #kosmofotomono100 #kyoceracontaxg2 #legacypromicx #lindsay #lomographyberlin400 #lomographypotsdam100 #london #mamiyam645 #michigan #milton #minoltadynax600siclassic #minoltamaxxum70 #minoltamaxxum9 #minoltaxe7 #montreal #moosejaw #newjersey #newmamiya6 #nikonf5 #nikonf90 #nikonfe #nikonfe2 #nikonfg #nikonfm #oakville #oldfort #ontario #orientalseagull400 #ottawa #pacemakercrowngraphic #pentax645 #pentaxk1000 #quebec #rockton #rolleiretro80s #rolleirpx100 #rolleirpx25 #rolleirpx400 #rolleicordvb #rolleiflex28f #sandwich #saskatchewan #shakespeare #spurhrx #stratford #strathroy #svemafn64 #toronto #unitedstates #washingtondc #zeissikoncontaxiiia #zoneimaging510pyro

Better Living Through Chemistry | Picking Your Developers

While we don't have the same amount of choice in the past when it comes to development chemistry, there is still enough out there to make a new photographer feel overwhelmed! Well in the past year I've had my fill of different chemistry so today I break down some common asks for developers.

Alex Luyckx | Blog
2 Centre Wellington seniors charged in historical sexual assault case
OPP investigators say two people have come forward to report incidents that occurred between 1961 and 1984.
#globalnews #Crime #CentreWellington #GuelphNews #SexualAssault
https://globalnews.ca/news/10216901/centre-wellington-seniors-charged-historical-sexual-assault-case/
2 Centre Wellington seniors charged in historical sexual assault case

OPP investigators say two people have come forward to report incidents that occurred between 1961 and 1984.

Global News
Failing to stop for police results in drugs and weapons charges in Wellington
Investigators say OPP made several attempts to stop the vehicle only to have the vehicle flee.
#globalnews #Crime #BBguns #CentreWellington #Cocaine
https://globalnews.ca/news/9987187/police-drugs-weapons-charges-wellington/
Failing to stop for police results in drugs and weapons charges in Wellington

Investigators say OPP made several attempts to stop the vehicle only to have the vehicle flee.

Global News
Domestic violence charges laid in Wellington County
OPP said they went to a home in Centre Wellington on Aug. 5 for reports of a disturbance. A 36-year-old from Centre Wellington has been charged and held for bail.
#globalnews #Crime #CentreWellington #CentreWellingtondomesticviolence #DomesticViolence
https://globalnews.ca/news/9928147/domestic-violence-charge-wellington-county/
Domestic violence charges laid in Wellington County

OPP said they went to a home in Centre Wellington on Aug. 5 for reports of a disturbance. A 36-year-old from Centre Wellington has been charged and held for bail.

Global News
Fergus Scottish Festival organizers pleased with turnout at event
More than 24,000 visitors came through the gates over the weekend.
#globalnews #Canada #CentreWellington #ElizabethBender #FergusScottishFestival
https://globalnews.ca/news/9902070/fergus-scottish-festival-organizers-turnout/
Fergus Scottish Festival organizers pleased with turnout at event

More than 24,000 visitors came through the gates over the weekend.

Global News

Camera Review Blog No. 142 – Canon Pellix

I like a camera with history, something unique, a variant or a failed move forward. While I'm a Nikon shooter, Nikon cameras are fairly dull in the broader picture of photographic history. Sure, Nikon cameras often set the standard for photography and technology, but they often played it safe. On the flip side, Canon tried different things, they experimented, and sometimes it worked. Other times it was too early. The Canon Pellix is a fine example of the engineers at the company in the 1960s who wanted to try everything to improve photography. Sadly they were several decades ahead of the game. Thanks to Ori Carmona, who loaded the Pellix and lens out for a review.

Camera Specifications
Make: Canon
Model: Pellix
Type: Single Lens Reflex (Pellical Mirror)
Format: 135 (35mm), 36x24mm
Lens: Interchangable, Canon FL-Mount
Shutter: Cloth Horizontal Travel Focal Plane Shutter, 1″ - 1/1000″ + Bulb
Meter: CdS TTL Meter, EV0.5 ~ EV18 @ ASA-100, ASA-25 - ASA-2000
Year of Manufacture: 1965-1966, QL Version: 1966-1970

Background
The 1960s were an exciting time for the Japanese camera industry. Among them, Canon was initially formed in 1933. They produced the country's first compact 35mm rangefinder, the Hansa Canon (Standard Canon). Of course, they were among the companies tagged by the occupying US forces to help rebuild the shattered economy in the post-war era. Canon focused on rangefinders, but as the century moved to the middle, the single-lens-reflex camera rose in popularity. Canon's first attempt at an SLR is Canon VL in 1956, proved less than popular and had several issues. The 1959 release of the Canonflex resolved these. The interchangeable lens system used a breech-lock system or R-Mount, utterly different from the other bayonet mounts from companies like Nikon, Pentax, and Minolta. But both being rushed into service, the Canonflex and R-Mount flopped. The problem lay with the lenses; the R-Mount and the mechanical coupling to the camera were overly complex, requiring two links once to prime the diaphragm the other to trigger it when the shutter is released. It also proved a pain to mount and dismount lenses, requiring both hands and the camera on a stable surface. At the same time, the R-Mount would survive through several more models with some improvements to the camera body with the R2000, RM and RP. But if Canon wanted to be a player, they needed to fix the R-Mount's foundational issue. Taking their breach-lock, they simplified the design and improved the functionality allowing for coupled metering and renamed it the FL-Mount. The lens mount made its debut in 1964 with the Canon FX; what made the FX notable is that it included match-needle metering with an externally mounted CdS cell. There was nothing new about the FX; Minolta had done this earlier with their SR-7. But Canon had another trick up their sleeve and took the body of the FX and removed one of the critical parts of any SLR, the moving mirror, and in 1965 the Canon Pellix hit the market. Instead, Canon fixed the mirror in place and used a pellicle mirror. Pellicle mirrors have been used in photography for decades. The first example was in 1938 with the Devin tri-colour camera; most pellicle mirror cameras before the Pellix were colour separation cameras. A pellicle mirror is set up to allow a majority of the light through while allowing the minority to reflect. In the case of the Pellix, the mirror allowed two-thirds through while reflecting one-third. The Pellix also introduced open aperture TTL metering. It achieved metering by placing the CdS cell behind the mirror so that exposures are based on the lens's light going through the mirror. This idea was introduced in 1963 with the Topcon RE. Of course, despite simplifying the design and reducing the amount of moving parts and camera shake from the mirror. The biggest issue was the dim viewfinder, the help that Canon released the Pellix with the 58mm f/1.2 lens. Canon did update the Pellix in 1966 with the Quick-Load system, but ultimately the system did not last long, nor did pellicle mirrors reach broad acceptance. And with the release of the new FD-Mount, the Pellix ceased production. Although that didn't stop Canon from using their mirror design again, first with a unique 1972 F-1 High Speed for that year's Olympics, and even Nikon followed suit with the 1976 Nikon F2H (High-Speed). Canon again used their pellicle design for the EOS RT in 1989 using the foundation of the EOS600/630 and the EOS-1N RT. The Sony SLT line of Alpha digital cameras from 2010 uses a pellicle mirror, but that design never took off popularly.

Canon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20C

Impressions
You can see the mid-sixties design ethos in the Pellix; the design is no-nonsense, there's nothing fancy about the camera body or frame. It's a big, heavy chunk of metal, and despite having no moving parts for the mirror, it's rather clunky. At least the edges are angled off, and the camera is reasonably comfortable to hold. The control layout is common, with everything you need quickly within reach, although a little crowded for someone using the camera while wearing gloves. And not having a solid click between the shutter speeds is a bit off-putting, so you have to remove your eye from the viewfinder. The film advance leaver also is nicely rounded and doesn't dig into the fingers, although there is no plastic cover over the metal. The small shutter release has a collar lock to prevent accidental firing, a nice touch. The accessory shoe is mounted atop the pentaprism, but any flash connected will need a PC sync cord. The placement of the PC port is an interesting one; you have to be careful where you place your fingers as it might drift a little too close, and you could get a bit of a shock if you're not careful. The battery terminal is on the side of the camera near the top, and while designed to accept 1.3V mercury cells, a modern 1.5V will fit and function fine with modern films. The FL-Lens focuses smoothly, although the lack of a split prism will make life difficult if you're not used to focusing without one. The focusing ring is chunky with plenty of grips, and the aperture control ring has a different look and feels with two raised knurled sections to grip and adjust.

Canon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20C

Experiences
The Pellix is an exciting camera from both a historical perspective and a user perspective. Loading the film is easy thanks to the Canon Quick Load system in fact, you could say that Canon was ahead of the game with the QL feature, making loading the camera as easy as my Maxxum 9 or F5. Pull the leader across into the gap and close the back. When it comes to opening the back, the release is not where you would expect it to be, a tug on the film rewind. The back is opened by a lock key on the camera's baseplate, and make sure to latch it once the film has been loaded, or it will flop open. The camera is not too heavy and makes for a comfortable camera to carry around. If you're used to the Canon Breach Lock mount, then removing and mounting the lens is a breeze, but I would use both hands for this procedure since all FL lenses use the collar locking system. Something Canon did away with with the FD(n) lenses. And the lenses are critical. Remember you're working with a fixed mirror that only bounces a third of the light up to the viewfinder, so if you have a slower lens, the viewfinder will be dim. Thankfully, I was in bright conditions with an f/1.4 lens, so the viewfinder was decently bright. There's no accurate exposure information displayed in the viewfinder itself; focusing is achieved through a small window at the centre with a circle, focus until that centre spot is clear and sharp. Metering is achieved with a match-needle system (sadly not functioning on this copy), with a single needle that you match up to the circle. The controls are smooth and easy to operate, but you have to take your eye off the viewfinder. I noticed how soft the shutter speed dial is; with no click at each stop, it made it a little difficult to feel confident it was set right. Now at this point, you're wondering how to even meter with the Pellix. With the TTL cell behind the mirror, which lets through the remaining 2/3rd of the light, the CdS cell can automatically adjust. In my case, I was working with my Gossen Lunasix, although a Reveni Hot Shoe meter is another excellent choice for an external meter. Here you have two options; the first is to shoot a film with wide latitude, shoot at box speed and the metered settings and develop normally. It's close enough that you'll get good results; the second option is to compensate by adding +0.5 to +1 EV on your meter. Rewinding the film is easy with a traditional release lock on the camera's base and a rewind crank. I think the cold got to the camera as the shutter failed to fire on a majority of the frames and I ended up losing much of that first roll. The one other troublesome thing that I noticed is that despite having excellent glass, stopping down, and being careful focusing is that the images are soft. I'm going to chalk this up to two things, the first being the age of the camera the second being that pellicle mirror. The light to expose the film still has to travel through a mirror to reach the emulsion; I'm sure in brand new condition. The Pellix produced top quality, but add over half of a century, age has probably done its due.

Canon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20C

Optics
While most of my experience with Canon cameras has been with either the newer FD-Mount or the autofocus EF mount, the difference between the FL-Mount and FD-Mount cameras is minimal. And while you cannot use FD-Mount lenses on an FL-Mount camera, the FL-Mount lenses are built to the same standards as any Canon lens. And while I could list off a standard set of lenses for any FL-Camera, the Pellix offers a unique situation. It again comes down to the pesky pellicle mirror, reflecting only a third of the light entering the camera to the viewfinder you need to be using fast lenses. Sadly this seriously limits what lenses would work the best on the camera. You do want to keep the apertures big, at least f/2.8 under bright and sunny conditions with plenty of light available, but realistically you're going to want at least an f/1.8 or f/1.4. Thankfully, most of Canon's 50mm lenses are superb options, with the f/1.8 and f/1.4 being relatively affordable on the used market. If you're in for a perfect look, then the 58mm f/1.2 is the match you're looking for if you're willing to spend the cash. You might get away with some f/2.5 lenses, including a 35mm, and there's even a unique 38mm f/2.8 lens that is ideally suited for the Pellix thanks to the pellicle mirror. You also can add the 85mm f/1.8 lens for something a little longer. Sadly that's about all the lenses that could work well on the Pellix without causing severe usability issues.

Canon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20C

Lowdown
If you're a fan of unique cameras, then the Canon Pellix is certainly one worthy of a collection. It is the first commercially successful implementation of a pellicle mirror in an SLR. It indeed showed Canon's desire to try and do something differently. And while ultimately, the use of the pellicle mirror never caught on in a significant way, the Pellix indeed showed what the future could be. Would I use this camera as a daily shooter? Probably not, in my hands, it would probably spend more time sitting on a shelf than in use for a few reasons. The first is the need to use fast lenses to get the best usability, and there is a severe lack of lenses in that area in the FL-Mount catalogue. Second, a mercury cell requires an external meter and adjustments to compensate for the pellicle mirror. And finally, the age of the camera; in this camera's case, I missed a tonne of frames because of shutter issues. Purchasing the Pellix can be tricky; the body alone is between 20-80 dollars, but once you start adding lenses, especially that desirable 58mm f/1.2, the cost jumps to 200-400 dollars. While the Pellix was fun to try and use, I'm glad I can give it back to Ori.

Further Reading
Don't just take my word on the Pellix, you can check out the reviews by other awesome camera reviewers!
Lomography - Canon Pellix
Flynn Marr Photography - Canon Pellix Review
Filmphotography.eu - Canon Pellix Review

#camerareviewblogs #camerareview #canon #canonflmount #canonpellix #centrewellington #elora #gear #ilfordfp4 #ilfordhp5 #ilfordid11 #ilfordperceptol #oakville #ontario #review #sheridancollege

Camera Review Blog No. 142 - Canon Pellix

A rather exciting divergence in Canon's camera line, the Pellix became the first commercially successful "SLR" that made use of a fixed pellicle mirror. While it cut down on vibration and moving parts, it presented an interesting problem, metering through a semi-transparent mirror!

Alex Luyckx | Blog

Camera Review Blog No. 142 – Canon Pellix

I like a camera with history, something unique, a variant or a failed move forward. While I'm a Nikon shooter, Nikon cameras are fairly dull in the broader picture of photographic history. Sure, Nikon cameras often set the standard for photography and technology, but they often played it safe. On the flip side, Canon tried different things, they experimented, and sometimes it worked. Other times it was too early. The Canon Pellix is a fine example of the engineers at the company in the 1960s who wanted to try everything to improve photography. Sadly they were several decades ahead of the game. Thanks to Ori Carmona, who loaded the Pellix and lens out for a review.

Camera Specifications
Make: Canon
Model: Pellix
Type: Single Lens Reflex (Pellical Mirror)
Format: 135 (35mm), 36x24mm
Lens: Interchangable, Canon FL-Mount
Shutter: Cloth Horizontal Travel Focal Plane Shutter, 1″ - 1/1000″ + Bulb
Meter: CdS TTL Meter, EV0.5 ~ EV18 @ ASA-100, ASA-25 - ASA-2000
Year of Manufacture: 1965-1966, QL Version: 1966-1970

Background
The 1960s were an exciting time for the Japanese camera industry. Among them, Canon was initially formed in 1933. They produced the country's first compact 35mm rangefinder, the Hansa Canon (Standard Canon). Of course, they were among the companies tagged by the occupying US forces to help rebuild the shattered economy in the post-war era. Canon focused on rangefinders, but as the century moved to the middle, the single-lens-reflex camera rose in popularity. Canon's first attempt at an SLR is Canon VL in 1956, proved less than popular and had several issues. The 1959 release of the Canonflex resolved these. The interchangeable lens system used a breech-lock system or R-Mount, utterly different from the other bayonet mounts from companies like Nikon, Pentax, and Minolta. But both being rushed into service, the Canonflex and R-Mount flopped. The problem lay with the lenses; the R-Mount and the mechanical coupling to the camera were overly complex, requiring two links once to prime the diaphragm the other to trigger it when the shutter is released. It also proved a pain to mount and dismount lenses, requiring both hands and the camera on a stable surface. At the same time, the R-Mount would survive through several more models with some improvements to the camera body with the R2000, RM and RP. But if Canon wanted to be a player, they needed to fix the R-Mount's foundational issue. Taking their breach-lock, they simplified the design and improved the functionality allowing for coupled metering and renamed it the FL-Mount. The lens mount made its debut in 1964 with the Canon FX; what made the FX notable is that it included match-needle metering with an externally mounted CdS cell. There was nothing new about the FX; Minolta had done this earlier with their SR-7. But Canon had another trick up their sleeve and took the body of the FX and removed one of the critical parts of any SLR, the moving mirror, and in 1965 the Canon Pellix hit the market. Instead, Canon fixed the mirror in place and used a pellicle mirror. Pellicle mirrors have been used in photography for decades. The first example was in 1938 with the Devin tri-colour camera; most pellicle mirror cameras before the Pellix were colour separation cameras. A pellicle mirror is set up to allow a majority of the light through while allowing the minority to reflect. In the case of the Pellix, the mirror allowed two-thirds through while reflecting one-third. The Pellix also introduced open aperture TTL metering. It achieved metering by placing the CdS cell behind the mirror so that exposures are based on the lens's light going through the mirror. This idea was introduced in 1963 with the Topcon RE. Of course, despite simplifying the design and reducing the amount of moving parts and camera shake from the mirror. The biggest issue was the dim viewfinder, the help that Canon released the Pellix with the 58mm f/1.2 lens. Canon did update the Pellix in 1966 with the Quick-Load system, but ultimately the system did not last long, nor did pellicle mirrors reach broad acceptance. And with the release of the new FD-Mount, the Pellix ceased production. Although that didn't stop Canon from using their mirror design again, first with a unique 1972 F-1 High Speed for that year's Olympics, and even Nikon followed suit with the 1976 Nikon F2H (High-Speed). Canon again used their pellicle design for the EOS RT in 1989 using the foundation of the EOS600/630 and the EOS-1N RT. The Sony SLT line of Alpha digital cameras from 2010 uses a pellicle mirror, but that design never took off popularly.

Canon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20C

Impressions
You can see the mid-sixties design ethos in the Pellix; the design is no-nonsense, there's nothing fancy about the camera body or frame. It's a big, heavy chunk of metal, and despite having no moving parts for the mirror, it's rather clunky. At least the edges are angled off, and the camera is reasonably comfortable to hold. The control layout is common, with everything you need quickly within reach, although a little crowded for someone using the camera while wearing gloves. And not having a solid click between the shutter speeds is a bit off-putting, so you have to remove your eye from the viewfinder. The film advance leaver also is nicely rounded and doesn't dig into the fingers, although there is no plastic cover over the metal. The small shutter release has a collar lock to prevent accidental firing, a nice touch. The accessory shoe is mounted atop the pentaprism, but any flash connected will need a PC sync cord. The placement of the PC port is an interesting one; you have to be careful where you place your fingers as it might drift a little too close, and you could get a bit of a shock if you're not careful. The battery terminal is on the side of the camera near the top, and while designed to accept 1.3V mercury cells, a modern 1.5V will fit and function fine with modern films. The FL-Lens focuses smoothly, although the lack of a split prism will make life difficult if you're not used to focusing without one. The focusing ring is chunky with plenty of grips, and the aperture control ring has a different look and feels with two raised knurled sections to grip and adjust.

Canon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford HP5+ @ ASA-400 - Ilford ID-11 (1+1) 13:00 @ 20C

Experiences
The Pellix is an exciting camera from both a historical perspective and a user perspective. Loading the film is easy thanks to the Canon Quick Load system in fact, you could say that Canon was ahead of the game with the QL feature, making loading the camera as easy as my Maxxum 9 or F5. Pull the leader across into the gap and close the back. When it comes to opening the back, the release is not where you would expect it to be, a tug on the film rewind. The back is opened by a lock key on the camera's baseplate, and make sure to latch it once the film has been loaded, or it will flop open. The camera is not too heavy and makes for a comfortable camera to carry around. If you're used to the Canon Breach Lock mount, then removing and mounting the lens is a breeze, but I would use both hands for this procedure since all FL lenses use the collar locking system. Something Canon did away with with the FD(n) lenses. And the lenses are critical. Remember you're working with a fixed mirror that only bounces a third of the light up to the viewfinder, so if you have a slower lens, the viewfinder will be dim. Thankfully, I was in bright conditions with an f/1.4 lens, so the viewfinder was decently bright. There's no accurate exposure information displayed in the viewfinder itself; focusing is achieved through a small window at the centre with a circle, focus until that centre spot is clear and sharp. Metering is achieved with a match-needle system (sadly not functioning on this copy), with a single needle that you match up to the circle. The controls are smooth and easy to operate, but you have to take your eye off the viewfinder. I noticed how soft the shutter speed dial is; with no click at each stop, it made it a little difficult to feel confident it was set right. Now at this point, you're wondering how to even meter with the Pellix. With the TTL cell behind the mirror, which lets through the remaining 2/3rd of the light, the CdS cell can automatically adjust. In my case, I was working with my Gossen Lunasix, although a Reveni Hot Shoe meter is another excellent choice for an external meter. Here you have two options; the first is to shoot a film with wide latitude, shoot at box speed and the metered settings and develop normally. It's close enough that you'll get good results; the second option is to compensate by adding +0.5 to +1 EV on your meter. Rewinding the film is easy with a traditional release lock on the camera's base and a rewind crank. I think the cold got to the camera as the shutter failed to fire on a majority of the frames and I ended up losing much of that first roll. The one other troublesome thing that I noticed is that despite having excellent glass, stopping down, and being careful focusing is that the images are soft. I'm going to chalk this up to two things, the first being the age of the camera the second being that pellicle mirror. The light to expose the film still has to travel through a mirror to reach the emulsion; I'm sure in brand new condition. The Pellix produced top quality, but add over half of a century, age has probably done its due.

Canon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20C

Optics
While most of my experience with Canon cameras has been with either the newer FD-Mount or the autofocus EF mount, the difference between the FL-Mount and FD-Mount cameras is minimal. And while you cannot use FD-Mount lenses on an FL-Mount camera, the FL-Mount lenses are built to the same standards as any Canon lens. And while I could list off a standard set of lenses for any FL-Camera, the Pellix offers a unique situation. It again comes down to the pesky pellicle mirror, reflecting only a third of the light entering the camera to the viewfinder you need to be using fast lenses. Sadly this seriously limits what lenses would work the best on the camera. You do want to keep the apertures big, at least f/2.8 under bright and sunny conditions with plenty of light available, but realistically you're going to want at least an f/1.8 or f/1.4. Thankfully, most of Canon's 50mm lenses are superb options, with the f/1.8 and f/1.4 being relatively affordable on the used market. If you're in for a perfect look, then the 58mm f/1.2 is the match you're looking for if you're willing to spend the cash. You might get away with some f/2.5 lenses, including a 35mm, and there's even a unique 38mm f/2.8 lens that is ideally suited for the Pellix thanks to the pellicle mirror. You also can add the 85mm f/1.8 lens for something a little longer. Sadly that's about all the lenses that could work well on the Pellix without causing severe usability issues.

Canon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20CCanon Pellix - Canon Lens FL 50mm 1:1.4 - Ilford FP4+ @ ASA-125 - Ilford Perceptol (Stock) 13:00 @ 20C

Lowdown
If you're a fan of unique cameras, then the Canon Pellix is certainly one worthy of a collection. It is the first commercially successful implementation of a pellicle mirror in an SLR. It indeed showed Canon's desire to try and do something differently. And while ultimately, the use of the pellicle mirror never caught on in a significant way, the Pellix indeed showed what the future could be. Would I use this camera as a daily shooter? Probably not, in my hands, it would probably spend more time sitting on a shelf than in use for a few reasons. The first is the need to use fast lenses to get the best usability, and there is a severe lack of lenses in that area in the FL-Mount catalogue. Second, a mercury cell requires an external meter and adjustments to compensate for the pellicle mirror. And finally, the age of the camera; in this camera's case, I missed a tonne of frames because of shutter issues. Purchasing the Pellix can be tricky; the body alone is between 20-80 dollars, but once you start adding lenses, especially that desirable 58mm f/1.2, the cost jumps to 200-400 dollars. While the Pellix was fun to try and use, I'm glad I can give it back to Ori.

Further Reading
Don't just take my word on the Pellix, you can check out the reviews by other awesome camera reviewers!
Lomography - Canon Pellix
Flynn Marr Photography - Canon Pellix Review
Filmphotography.eu - Canon Pellix Review

#camerareviewblogs #camerareview #canon #canonflmount #canonpellix #centrewellington #elora #gear #ilfordfp4 #ilfordhp5 #ilfordid11 #ilfordperceptol #oakville #ontario #review #sheridancollege

Camera Review Blog No. 142 - Canon Pellix

A rather exciting divergence in Canon's camera line, the Pellix became the first commercially successful "SLR" that made use of a fixed pellicle mirror. While it cut down on vibration and moving parts, it presented an interesting problem, metering through a semi-transparent mirror!

Alex Luyckx | Blog

Embrace the Grain – Film of the Month: JCH Streetpan 400

It's been a while since I got to do a film of the month challenge put on by the team at the Embrace the Grain Podcast, mainly because some of the more recent ones have focused on colour films. And I'm not often one to jump on colour films. For a couple of reasons, first being I don't like scanning colour film, and second, it's difficult to get processed on time as I don't keep colour chemicals at home. So when January's film was announced as being Japan Camera Hunter Streetpan 400, I jumped, and I had a roll stashed away.

Nikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20C

I took the film out to one of my favourite historical villages, Elora, Ontario. Thankfully it snowed earlier in the week, and despite being a little chilly, the day proved a bright and sunny one, a day made for Streetpan, which loves light. I loaded the film into my trusty Nikon F5 with the heavy 28-70/2.8D lens mounted and left the filters at home. I wanted to get the full experience of JCH and expose the film one-stop over at ASA-200. For development, I went with a new developer in my chemistry kit, Flic Film's Black/White & Green. B/W & Green is a developer you've seen a bit more on my Flickr stream and will be appearing in an upcoming developer preview and some other reviews.

Nikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20C

Despite having visited Elora on a number of occasions, I can always find new things to photograph and taking different cameras, lenses, and film stocks each time only makes things more fun. I parked up by the old drill hall (now an LCBO). I took to wandering along the main street up to the Roman Catholic Parish before swinging back down through the side streets and out along the gorge before popping back out and walking out past the old mill along the Pedestrian bridge. Not my usual route, but sometimes you have to switch it up a little to see something new or an angle you had not seen before.

Nikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20CNikon F5 - AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1:2.8D - JCH Streetpan 400 @ ASA-200 - Flic Film Black/White & Green (1+49) 11:00 @ 20C

I've been a longtime fan of Streetpan, but it's always produced thin but scannable negatives. Shooting it at ASA-200 made far better negatives right from the tank and retained that crunchy contrast, iconic Streetpan. If I did this again, I think I'd go with a dilute mix of Ilfotec HC. Suppose you want to know what the film of the month for February is, join the Embrace the Grain Podcast group over on Facebook. In that case, it's one of three Canadian Film Podcasts that is a part of the Film Podcaster's Union Local 120mm and fronted by Sherry and Jake, two wonderful folk and photographers. Also, if you post your work on Instagram, make sure to use the tag #embracethegrainpodcast for a chance to be featured and share some love. If you want to see more of my past involvement with the ETG Film-Of-The-Month and see the rest of my images from Elora, you can visit the album over on Flickr.

#photography #canada #centrewellington #community #elora #embracethegrain #filmofthemonth #flicfilmblackwhitegreen #jchstreetpan400 #nikonf5 #ontario

Embrace the Grain - Film of the Month: JCH Streetpan 400

Taking on the Embrace the Grain Film of the Month to my favourite historic village of Elora, Ontario.

Alex Luyckx | Blog

Classic Film Review Blog – Fujifilm Fujichrome Velvia

When I was starting to shoot film seriously, I stuck mainly to negative colour stock but started experimenting with black & white, but slide film was something that I avoided. Slide film was for professional photographers or travel photographers who wanted to share their trips on a slide projector. My first experience with slide film was Fuji Sensia and I was hooked. So I decided to jump right into the iconic Fuji slide film, Velvia. The original Kodachrome killer, and yet I only started shooting the stock after it got discontinued, the first roll running through my camera in 2007.

Rolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) - Processing By: Silvano's

Film Specs
Type: Colour Reversal Film (E-6)
Film Base: Triacetate
Film Speed: ASA-50
Formats Available: 135, 120, 220, 4×5, 8×10, 13x18cm, Super8, 16mm
Discontinued: 2005

Nikon F90 - AF Nikkor 35mm 1:2D (CPOL) - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-64 - Processing By: The DarkroomNikon F90 - AF Nikkor 35mm 1:2D (CPOL) - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-64 - Processing By: The DarkroomNikon F90 - AF Nikkor 35mm 1:2D (CPOL) - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-64 - Processing By: The DarkroomNikon F90 - AF Nikkor 35mm 1:2D (CPOL) - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-64 - Processing By: The Darkroom

Colour Rendition
There is a reason that the nickname for Velvia is Fujifilm Velveeta. The reason is that Velveeta is a cheese 'product' with an artificial orange colour and rich, creamy consistency. That is exactly what you get with the shades of Velvia, rich, creamy, and often unctuous as it tends to exaggerate colours. The high-contrast nature of the film will make the colours pop or reach out from the slide and punch you in the face. You'll notice this in all colours, but mainly in the reds and blues, followed by greens. While this works well for landscapes, you do have to watch for skin tones, although I did find that it wasn't too bad in the few times I've photographed people with Velvia. While many aren't too happy with the punchy colours, they can add drama to the images in the right situations.

Pentax 645 - SMC Pentax A 645 35mm 1:3.5 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-50 - Unicolor Rapid E6 KitPentax 645 - SMC Pentax A 645 35mm 1:3.5 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-50 - Unicolor Rapid E6 KitPentax 645 - SMC Pentax A 645 35mm 1:3.5 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-50 - Unicolor Rapid E6 KitPentax 645 - SMC Pentax A 645 35mm 1:3.5 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-50 - Unicolor Rapid E6 Kit

Image Quality
the one thing that you don't have to worry about is image quality. Velvia produces a delightfully sharp and fine-grained image that offers up a nearly grain-free image no matter if you're scanning or projecting. The one thing you will notice about the film is the contrast; this is probably the pinnacle of high-contrast for colour films, but don't let that stop you. Like any slide film, you need to be accurate with your exposure as there is a bit of latitude but nothing like what you get with colour negative or B&W films. If you are metering, especially portrait work, you'll want to meter the light falling on your subject, incident metering, and try and average as best you can between the shadows and highlights. In the shot of the ladies at Fort Michilimackinac, you'll note that I missed this and lost the one woman's face in the shadows of her hats. But when you do get that exposure nailed, you'll be treated to clean highlights, dark shadows, and excellent colour tones across the image.

Modified Anniversary Speed Graphic - Schneider-Kreuznack Angulon 1:6,8/90 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-64 - Processing By: Toronto Image WorksModified Anniversary Speed Graphic - Schneider-Kreuznack Angulon 1:6,8/90 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-64 - Processing By: Toronto Image WorksModified Anniversary Speed Graphic - Fuji Fujinon-W 1:5.6/125 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-64 - Processing By: Boréalis Laboratoire PhotoModified Anniversary Speed Graphic - Fuji Fujinon-W 1:5.6/125 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-64 - Processing By: Boréalis Laboratoire Photo

Scanning
While most slide films can be challenging to scan, and Velvia can be a bit of a challenge, but if you have correctly exposed film, the scanning is much easier. The one thing that I did notice with Velvia is that it tends to scan in with a basis towards magenta. I only found that when scanning with Epson software and the V700 scanner. It did a better job nailing the colour balance using the Nikon Coolscan V ED and Nikon Scanning software. Thankfully any colour shifts can be easily adjusted for in post-processing; even Adobe Photoshop's automatic adjustments are enough to fix any colour shifts. While you won't get as nice of a result with expired film, you can get the slides almost back to normal with a bit of time. There is some introduction of colour aberrations, but nothing that a bit of work in Photoshop won't fix.

Rolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-50 - Processing By: Silvano'sRolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-50 - Processing By: Silvano'sRolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-50 - Processing By: Silvano'sRolleiflex 2.8F - Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 - Fuji Velvia (RVP) @ ASA-50 - Processing By: Silvano's

Overall Impression
If Sensia introduced me to slide film, Velvia showed me exactly what slide film could do! However, a specific photograph and subject matter makes Velvia, so you get that Velvia punch. You want to shoot the stock in bright conditions with lots of hard light and plenty of copunch. You also have to remember Velvia filled in a gap in the slide film market; when it was released, the biggest player for professional photography and the slow film was Kodachrome 64, but Kodachrome required a specific and complex processing method. Velvia provided a similar experience but could be taken to any lab and have at the time a 1-2 hour turnaround time. And while the original has been discontinued for a decade and a half now, the new film stock is still hanging on (barely). But the big question is which version do I prefer, the Velvia or Velvia 50? I have to say, I prefer the original Velvia; I found it a bit more forgiving especially when I shot the film at ASA-64, and it has a far more punchy result. These days, the original Velvia can still be found, but it is starting to get on in age, so if you have any rolls left, now is the time to shoot them; you'll probably want to shoot these closer to ASA-25 have them developed normally. Because Velvia does not age well when poorly stored, and you'll get some serious colour shifts. But if you do get your hands on a cold stored roll or, if you're lucky, a box of 4×5, you're in for a real treat.

#filmreviewblogs #asheville #canada #centrewellington #elora #film #filmreview #fortmichlimackinac #fujichrome #fujifilm #fujifilmvelvia #mackinaccity #media #medium #michigan #montreal #nationalmuseumoftheunitedstatesairforce #nikonf90 #northcarolina #ohio #ontario #pentax645 #pisgahnationalforest #quebec #review #rolleiflex28f #rvp #speedgraphic #toronto #unitedstates #wolfford

Classic Film Review Blog - Fujifilm Fujichrome Velvia

The classic E-6 slide film and the one that stood up to the mighty power of Kodachrome. Offering rich colours, fine grain, sharp, and a developing method that could be done quickly.

Alex Luyckx | Blog