#AzadiBus 3.30 a.m.,  Midyad / 🇹🇷 Midyat. Next stop :  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman. I'm tired. #AzadiRail
4.45 a.m.,  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman. My #AzadiBus destination for today. Delay of 6 hours. #AzadiRail
I swear, next vacation will be less busses by night. #AzadiRail
After a long sleep, tasty afternoon #baklava with #Çay in  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman. #AzadiRail

Finally back on track ! After a week of bus travels, my first #AzadiRail train back home : I'm in  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman waiting for the famous  #GüneyEkspresi / Southern Express #SleeperAndEater bringing my to 🇹🇷 #Ankara for the next 25 hours.

Êlih is a cute station, a couple of cargo carriages in the cargo terminal, a cute maintenance vehicle for display, three tracks but sadly no catenary.

The station has three train pairs per day : twice the regional link to the Kurdish capital  #Amed / 🇹🇷 #Diyarbakır and six days per week a pair of my Güney Ekspresi linking  #Misircê / 🇹🇷 #Kurtalan, Êlih, Amed and 🇹🇷 #Malatya with #Ankara over night.

Shortly after the arrival of the local train from  #Amed / 🇹🇷 #Diyarbakır, my  #SleeperAndEater #GüneyEkspresi arrived. It features most comfortable and spacious wagon-lits compartments with a desk, two proper beds, a sink and even a mini-bar - a comfortable hotel room for the next 25 hours.

The steward was already waiting for me and didn't even wanna see my ticket since I was the only passenger boarding the wagon-lits carriage.

#AzadiRail #TeamNightTrain

25 hours. This is btw. my longest train leg on European gauge 😇 ! #AzadiRail

The weird thing about  Turkish railways : You have three different train types but their speeds don't match :

YHT high-speed trains : Vmax 300 kph
Mainline trains : Vmax 50 kph
Regional trains : Vmax 140 kph

... ???

#AzadiRail

Enjoying lunch in a  @diningcar during my #AzadiRail journey from  Iraqi #Kurdistan to France, today on the famous  #GüneyEkspresi / Southern Express #SleeperAndEater on my 25 hours trip from  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman to 🇹🇷 #Ankara 😋 !

Since the vegan choice is sadly highly limited, I decided for a plate of rice with some side salad, some fruit juice and of course a glass of #Çay 🍵!

Save travels everyone and enjoy your meal 🍽️ !

So far, #AzadiRail day #13, homebound day and night #3 : comfortable  #GüneyEkspresi #SleeperAndEater from  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman to 🇹🇷 #Ankara 🍽️😴.

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷

#AzadiRail day #14, homebound day #4 begins with tasty breakfast in the  @diningcar of the  #GüneyEkspresi #SleeperAndEater . The vegan options are highly limited but I reached at explaining I only want #Çay , bread and jam.

#TeamNightTrain

40 km left until 🇹🇷 #Ankara, Vmax 50 kph and my connecting train is leaving in 40 minutes.

Am I going to miss my  YHT ?

You will ...

#AzadiRail

Miss your YHT
61.9%
Miss the YHT and the connecting night train
38.1%
Poll ended at .
Bad news, the only other possible YHT is fully booked 🙄. #AzadiRail
Still 20 km to Ankara and 20 minutes until the last YHT departure. I fear this won't work out either. So far : 2 h delay. #AzadiRail

I still made it to the train but they didn't let me in even though they understood I'd miss my train to 🇧🇬 Софія / Sofia this way.

Some people aren't just bad but actually evil. #AzadiRail

Anyways, Obilet for help : My alternative #AzadiRail plan is now to take some later  YHT from 🇹🇷 #Ankara to 🇹🇷 #Istanbul, from there on take one more #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule and hopefully catch my night train to 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia there at 2 a.m. 🙄🫣.

What an asshole at the ticket check.

I guess I'll be ending up with more night busses than night trains on my #AzadiRail trip 🫣.

Next train for my #AzadiRail trip : the comfortable  class HT80000 Velaro from 🇹🇷 #Ankara to 🇹🇷 #Istanbul.

I got the last available seat in the train, a luxury first class compartment seat, similar to the business class in first generation  trains.

This YHT comes from 🇹🇷 #Sivas, where I've been at around 2 a.m. in my #GüneyEkspresi . For the ne?t four hours, this means some relaxing time before boarding my #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule tonight.

After that the  YHT arrived one hour delayed in 🇹🇷 #Istanbul, I missed my booked bus as well. A quick rebooking and after tasty Pide for dinner, here I am, waiting for my #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule to leave. So far, everything that could go wrong today went wrong. #AzadiRail
Here we are : #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule ready for departure. #AzadiRail

So far, #AzadiRail day #14, homebound day & night #4 :

 night train to 🇹🇷 #Ankara 2 hours late, I missed my  YHT to 🇹🇷 #Istanbul
- next YHT not willing to take me with them, knowing that this let me miss ly connecting train
- finally caught an YHT, but that one had 1 hour delay
- I missed my alternative connecting bus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule
- finally found a later bus still eventually making the transfer
- I'll hopefully catch my connecting train from 🇹🇷 #Kapikule to 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia at 2.30 a.m.

What a bad luck. What a mess. What a chaos. What a stress.

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬

#AzadiRail night 14, homebound night #4 : 🇹🇷 #Kapikule.

The border officers were highly surprised by someone arriving by foot, were checking my ticket and seemed quite amused when they learned I also intended to take the train from 🇹🇷 #Istanbul on but missed it and arrived by bus 🫣.

Anyways, my Istanbul-Sofia-Express has not arrived yet. Instead, the opposite direction from 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia is still waiting here.

After a quick but careful luggage and passport check I was told my train is delayed by about an hour ; nothing unusual here. So one more hour of waiting before getting my deserved bed.

In other words : time for some last good night #Çay 🥰 ! #AzadiRail

2.45 a.m. : my Istanbul-Sofia-Ekspesi arrived.

My reserved cabin has already been occupied by someone else so I decided to just grab one of the numerous empty compartments in the other carriage.

#AzadiRail good night. Alarm clock set to 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia 😴. #TeamNightTrain

What an eventful day 🙄.

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬

Welcome to 🇧🇬 Bulgaria ! #AzadiRail

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬

Good morning 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia 🌇 ! #AzadiRail

After a quick ride by the  suburban replacement train in a familiar Siemens Desiro Classic, I reached 🇧🇬 #Софія Севея / Sofia North where I caught my comfortable Intercity Fast train #RealInterCity consisting of beautifully repainted   ex-DB InterCity carriages taking me to my first destination today : 🇧🇬 #ГорнаОряховица / #GornaOryahovitsa.

#AzadiRail day 15, homebound day 5 has begun.

From 🇧🇬 #ГорнаОряховица / #GornaOryahovitsa, an amazing old Soviet ER25 EMU serving as  class 32 will bring me further to 🇧🇬 #Русе / #Ruse, right at the 🇷🇴 Romanian border.

Amazing vehicles 🤩🤩🤩 ! #AzadiRail #TeamOpenWindows

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴

After two more hours in the amazing  ER25, I reached today's #AzadiRail destination : 🇧🇬 #Русе / #Ruse, right at the 🇷🇴 Romanian border.

So far, #AzadiRail day 15. Now time for a long sleep after the short night 😴.

#AzadiRail day #16, homebound day #6 : From 🇧🇬 #Русе / #Ruse, a small mini bus 🚌 will bring me to 🇷🇴 #Bucuresti. The bus is packed but the #AzadiBus trip will only take 2 hours.

After some waiting time due to construction work on the 🇧🇬🇷🇴 Friendship Bridge, my #AzadiBus reached 🇷🇴 #Giurgiu. The railway tracks on the bridge still look as misplaced as always, considering how there's only one #CrossBorderRail train pair per day, the probably even *are* misplaced. #AzadiRail

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴

Good morning 🇷🇴 #București ! #AzadiRail

After a relaxed day in 🇷🇴 #Bucuresti, time to head over to the amazing Gara de Nord. Still enough time to watch all the amazing trains here before the arrival of my  #Dacia on my way to 🇦🇹 #Wien / #Vienna. #AzadiRail

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴🇭🇺🇦🇹

Night train arrived, I got a comfortable private compartment with a toilet and shower facilities. That's gonna be useful during the 18 hours of travel time. Once again,  know how to design comfortable night train carriages ; both their wagon-lits and their couchette carriages are amongst the best in Europe IMHO. #AzadiRail #TeamNightTrain #SleeperAndEater

So far, #AzadiRail day & night #16, homebound day & night #6 : From 🇧🇬 #Русе / #Ruse to 🇷🇴 #București / #Bucharest by 🚌 mini bus #AzadiBus, afterwards a relaxed day in Bucuresti and now by   #Dacia night train via 🇭🇺 #Budapest to 🇦🇹 #Wien / #Vienna 😴.

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴🇭🇺🇦🇹

Everything so awful 🥰🥰🥰 ! #AzadiRail

OH(ÖBB) : You look like you just arrived by night train.
OH(me) : Indeed, I did. From Bucharest.
OH(ÖBB) : Oh, I hope it was comfortable.
OH(me) : Yes, it was excellent.
OH(ÖBB) : Really, I can't believe people actually enjoy night trains.

... ? #AzadiRail

Good morning 🇦🇹 #Wien / #Vienna 🤩 !

The night train trip in the   IRN #Dacia wagon-lits was excellent. We arrived just on time. After a quick shower, I sadly didn't have enough time left for breakfast in the #SleeperAndEater @diningcar - btw. one of the few night trains with different dining cars on different sections of the journey : a  CFR bistro carriage between 🇷🇴 #București / #Bucharest and 🇷🇴 #Arad and a  MÁV @diningcar between 🇭🇺 #Budapest and 🇦🇹 #Wien / #Vienna.

Now time to grab some snacks in Vienna main station before boarding my   bringing me to my first destination for today : 🇩🇪 #Nürnberg / #Nuremberg .

#AzadiRail day 17, homebound day 7 has begun. Sadly already the last day of my amazing trip.

My train for the next few hours : a comfortable and amazingly designed   ICE T  bringing my to 🇩🇪 #Nürnberg / #Nuremberg 🥰 ! #AzadiRail
I absolutely love ICE T trains : 200 kph feels like floating above the tracks. You feel absolutely no vibration 🥰. #AzadiRail

Checking some #AzadiRail stats :

- 8375 km by train
- 9 countries :
- 🇫🇷 France
- 🇩🇪 Germany
- 🇦🇹 Austria
- 🇭🇺 Hungary
- 🇷🇴 Romania
- 🇧🇬 Bulgaria
- 🇹🇷 Turkey
 -  #Kurdistan
- 🇹🇷 Turkish Kurdistan
- 🇮🇶 Iraqi Kurdistan
- 🇸🇾 #Rojava
- 6 night trains
 -   #KalmanImre
 -  IRN #Muntenia
 -  #IstanbulSofiaEkspresi 2x
 -  #GüneyEkspresi
 -  IRN #Dacia
- 6 #AzadiBus trips
 - 🇹🇷 Malatya -  Amed / 🇹🇷 Diyarbakır night bus
 -  Amed / 🇹🇷 Diyarbakır -  Hewlêr / 🇮🇶 Erbil day bus
 -  Hewlêr / 🇮🇶 Erbil -  Zaxo / 🇮🇶 Zakho day bus
 -  Zaxo / 🇮🇶 Erbil -  Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman night bus
- 🇹🇷 Istanbul - 🇹🇷 Kapikule night bus
- 🇧🇬 Русе / Ruse - 🇷🇴 Bucuresti / Bucharest day bus
- 17 travel days in total
- 8 days outbound travels
- 10 different trains
- 7 days homebound travels
- 12 different trains

I hope you enjoyed reading my travel reports and maybe found it inspiring ! Your feedback and likes kept pushing me to go further even during the most miserable travel days 🥰 !

#JinJîyanAzadî - keep fighting for a free, open and democratic Kurdistan ✊ !

🇩🇪 #Passau. Train arrives on time and bam, 10 minutes delay. Heck, how does Germany reach at delaying any train crossing its border 🤯 ? #AzadiRail
German police should pay for the delay compensation of every train they delay by illegal border checks. #AzadiRail #Schengen
From 🇩🇪 #Nürnberg / #Nuremberg, a   Velaro D brings me further to 🇩🇪 #Frankfurt. Time for a final #AzadiRail @diningcar visit : tasty Vegan Curry Sausage along with some lemonade 😋.

Last miles : from 🇩🇪 #Frankfurt a grimy   Velaro D brought me to 🇩🇪 #Karlsruhe - with an exceptional change in 🇩🇪 #Darmstadt where they changed the vehicle.

From 🇩🇪 #Karlsruhe on, homeward by my casual  Bombardier TALENT DMU with a last change in 🇩🇪 #Wörth before crossing the border back to 🇫🇷 Alsace. #AzadiRail

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴🇭🇺🇦🇹🇩🇪🇫🇷

Final destination for my #AzadiRail trip : after 17 days of travels, a grimy old  class 628 brought me back to 🇫🇷 #Lauterbourg where I was greeted by #UneBaleineUneBaleine and a cute Régiolis transfrontalier 🇪🇺.

17 days of amazing trains, relaxed travels, beautiful impressions and many kind people.

From 🇫🇷 France to  #Kurdistan by public transport and back again.

Thanks a lot for reading 🥰 !

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴🇭🇺🇦🇹🇩🇪🇫🇷

@lewd happy to have you back in one piece
@lewd Thank you so much for sharing your fascinating trip with us!
@lewd thanks for sharing, amazing trip. And great to see (once more) that things always work out in the end.
@lewd and thank you too for sharing this experience! Was very interesting to read along a trip not to your typical vacation destination! :)
@lewd Kleiner Stadler SMILE :3
@lewd @diningcar oooh, vegan curry sausage! I'd love to have that

@lewd bring back Begrüßungsgeld but for everyone crossing the border

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Begr%C3%BC%C3%9Fungsgeld

Begrüßungsgeld - Wikipedia

@lewd Schengen isn't Schengen-ing it seems.
@enbee_emi7272 @lewd that especially on the one line where a court ruled its illegal to do border control
@lewd
Thank you so much for sharing your impressions of a truly magnificent trip! I wish you a enjoyable ending!
@lewd wow. This IS inspiring! Did you only go by bus and train with no hotels?
@chris No, sure I stayed in hotels as well.
@lewd well it is very very cool. I would love to see your itinerary
@chris Check https://zug.network/tags/AzadiRail for my full travel report !
Zug.Network

Du magst Züge? Dann bist du hier richtig!

Mastodon hosted on zug.network

@lewd amazing journey, thanks for pushing through and documenting so extensively. I remember the Habur Border Crossing in 1999 and post 2003. Both times it was such a degrading experience.

Just another side-note regarding naming: Nowadays most Kurds call Northern Kurdistan (occupied by Turkey) Bakûr, Southern Kurdistan (occupied by Iraq) Bashûr and Eastern Kurdistan (occupied by Iran) is Rojhelat.

@lewd Same! An absolute favourite. I can’t believe that they are to be phased out (on inner-German routes at least)
×
4.45 a.m.,  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman. My #AzadiBus destination for today. Delay of 6 hours. #AzadiRail
I swear, next vacation will be less busses by night. #AzadiRail
After a long sleep, tasty afternoon #baklava with #Çay in  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman. #AzadiRail

Finally back on track ! After a week of bus travels, my first #AzadiRail train back home : I'm in  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman waiting for the famous  #GüneyEkspresi / Southern Express #SleeperAndEater bringing my to 🇹🇷 #Ankara for the next 25 hours.

Êlih is a cute station, a couple of cargo carriages in the cargo terminal, a cute maintenance vehicle for display, three tracks but sadly no catenary.

The station has three train pairs per day : twice the regional link to the Kurdish capital  #Amed / 🇹🇷 #Diyarbakır and six days per week a pair of my Güney Ekspresi linking  #Misircê / 🇹🇷 #Kurtalan, Êlih, Amed and 🇹🇷 #Malatya with #Ankara over night.

Shortly after the arrival of the local train from  #Amed / 🇹🇷 #Diyarbakır, my  #SleeperAndEater #GüneyEkspresi arrived. It features most comfortable and spacious wagon-lits compartments with a desk, two proper beds, a sink and even a mini-bar - a comfortable hotel room for the next 25 hours.

The steward was already waiting for me and didn't even wanna see my ticket since I was the only passenger boarding the wagon-lits carriage.

#AzadiRail #TeamNightTrain

25 hours. This is btw. my longest train leg on European gauge 😇 ! #AzadiRail

The weird thing about  Turkish railways : You have three different train types but their speeds don't match :

YHT high-speed trains : Vmax 300 kph
Mainline trains : Vmax 50 kph
Regional trains : Vmax 140 kph

... ???

#AzadiRail

Enjoying lunch in a  @diningcar during my #AzadiRail journey from  Iraqi #Kurdistan to France, today on the famous  #GüneyEkspresi / Southern Express #SleeperAndEater on my 25 hours trip from  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman to 🇹🇷 #Ankara 😋 !

Since the vegan choice is sadly highly limited, I decided for a plate of rice with some side salad, some fruit juice and of course a glass of #Çay 🍵!

Save travels everyone and enjoy your meal 🍽️ !

So far, #AzadiRail day #13, homebound day and night #3 : comfortable  #GüneyEkspresi #SleeperAndEater from  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman to 🇹🇷 #Ankara 🍽️😴.

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷

#AzadiRail day #14, homebound day #4 begins with tasty breakfast in the  @diningcar of the  #GüneyEkspresi #SleeperAndEater . The vegan options are highly limited but I reached at explaining I only want #Çay , bread and jam.

#TeamNightTrain

40 km left until 🇹🇷 #Ankara, Vmax 50 kph and my connecting train is leaving in 40 minutes.

Am I going to miss my  YHT ?

You will ...

#AzadiRail

Miss your YHT
61.9%
Miss the YHT and the connecting night train
38.1%
Poll ended at .
Bad news, the only other possible YHT is fully booked 🙄. #AzadiRail
Still 20 km to Ankara and 20 minutes until the last YHT departure. I fear this won't work out either. So far : 2 h delay. #AzadiRail

I still made it to the train but they didn't let me in even though they understood I'd miss my train to 🇧🇬 Софія / Sofia this way.

Some people aren't just bad but actually evil. #AzadiRail

Anyways, Obilet for help : My alternative #AzadiRail plan is now to take some later  YHT from 🇹🇷 #Ankara to 🇹🇷 #Istanbul, from there on take one more #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule and hopefully catch my night train to 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia there at 2 a.m. 🙄🫣.

What an asshole at the ticket check.

I guess I'll be ending up with more night busses than night trains on my #AzadiRail trip 🫣.

Next train for my #AzadiRail trip : the comfortable  class HT80000 Velaro from 🇹🇷 #Ankara to 🇹🇷 #Istanbul.

I got the last available seat in the train, a luxury first class compartment seat, similar to the business class in first generation  trains.

This YHT comes from 🇹🇷 #Sivas, where I've been at around 2 a.m. in my #GüneyEkspresi . For the ne?t four hours, this means some relaxing time before boarding my #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule tonight.

After that the  YHT arrived one hour delayed in 🇹🇷 #Istanbul, I missed my booked bus as well. A quick rebooking and after tasty Pide for dinner, here I am, waiting for my #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule to leave. So far, everything that could go wrong today went wrong. #AzadiRail
Here we are : #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule ready for departure. #AzadiRail

So far, #AzadiRail day #14, homebound day & night #4 :

 night train to 🇹🇷 #Ankara 2 hours late, I missed my  YHT to 🇹🇷 #Istanbul
- next YHT not willing to take me with them, knowing that this let me miss ly connecting train
- finally caught an YHT, but that one had 1 hour delay
- I missed my alternative connecting bus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule
- finally found a later bus still eventually making the transfer
- I'll hopefully catch my connecting train from 🇹🇷 #Kapikule to 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia at 2.30 a.m.

What a bad luck. What a mess. What a chaos. What a stress.

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬

@lewd Crap. Maybe a chance to still get a last minute ticket for the next YHT due to some short-notice rebooked tickets? (I made some TGV experiences going this way…)
@wrzlbrnft Yeah, that's not the issue, I got a ticket for a later one but I'll miss my connecting train to Sofia this way.
@lewd I suppose you already have a plan B or something.
But still: there might be a chance to catch a bus from İstanbul to Edirne (usually about 2h30) and then a taxi to Kapıkule where you could reach the sleeper (departure 2:20 - in reality usually later).
@lewd Okay, now I saw you've got the same idea. 😅
Fingers crossed. 🤞
@lewd Get on it anyway! It’s an emergency
@lewd according to math you will definitly miss your train
@lewd I suppose it's very hard in general to live vegan in this part of the world?
@lewd thank you for your travel thread, I've been following since a couple of days and it really makes me want to explore Turkey by train soon. The current train looks rather empty, is that typical or just off-season? While travelling, do you get along well with English in the country? And may I ask if you used interrail or single tickets on Turkish trains?
Safe travels!

@slateroni Well, the sleeper carriages are usually pretty full, you should book them a bit in advance.

I technically have an InterRail ticket but Turkey only accepts them in second class. Since I travel in first class, I bought single tickets for everything but the local trains. But considering the prices in Turkey, that's pretty affordable.

At the international ticket counters, they speak English, apart from that, it's rather a 50/50 chance - but at the end I always reached at explaining what I wanted to explain.

@lewd I really hope all announcements regarding that station start with "Dinner, Dinner, Dinner, Dinner".