#AzadiBus half time. 4 hours left. #AzadiRail
#AzadiBus stop #3 : ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Cizre, right at the border of ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡พ Democratic Autonomous Administration of North and East Syria. 30 km to the ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ #IbrahimKhalil corder crossing. #AzadiRail
#AzadiBus stop #4 : NerdiลŸ - highway rest area. 3 hours travel time left. #AzadiRail

#AzadiBus #CrossBorderBus stop #5 : the ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Habur / ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ #IbrahimKhalil corder crossing. #AzadiRail

After 7 travel days, finally crossing the border to ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ Iraq ๐Ÿš !

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ด๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ

Welcome to ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ Iraqi  #Kurdistan ! #AzadiBus #AzadiRail
Our #AzadiBus has about 2 h delay so far. #AzadiRail
Our #AzadiBus arrived with 4 hours delay in  #Hewlรชr / #ุฃุฑุจูŠู„ / #Erbil. The trip took 12:45 h in total. I'm just exhausted and flopping into my bed. #AzadiRail

#AzadiRail day 7 was : ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Diyarbakฤฑr -  #Hewlรชr / #Erbil - 12h45 by bus.

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ด๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท

Leaving  #Mรปsil / #ุงู„ู…ูˆุตู„ / #Mosul governate towards  #Hewlรชr / #ุฃุฑุจูŠู„ / #Erbil. This was where the region with high ISIS presence ends with a last military checkpoint before arriving at today's #AzadiRail destination.
One day in  #Hewlรชr / #Erbil : I spent most of the day walking around the cozy bazar. Later, I ensured to have #AzadiRail #GadgetBahn content served from ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ Iraqi #Kurdistan : the Hewlรชr cable car - sadly out if order.

#AzadiRail day 8 was : enjoying the flaire of  #Hewlรชr / #Erbil and recovering from an exhausting travel day - served with vegan food in the bazar and a cursed #GadgetBahn .

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ด๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท

It still feels somehow strange to sit in northern ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ #Iraq in  #Kurdistan region knowing I came here by public transport only. #AzadiRail
#AzadiRail day 9 : I've had a relaxed morning in the downtown wasting time and money at the bazar of  #Hewlรชr / #Erbil. Now enjoying some tasty ร‡ay in the sadly-not @diningcar at the international bus terminal waiting for my bus to  #Zaxo / #Zakho at the Syrian border to arrive.
After I learned my #AzadiBus is 5 hours late, I decided to look for another carrier. A friendly Turkish-Iraqi guy helped me figuring out the operator leaving next, so here I am with a new ticket to  #Zaxo / #Zakho for 25.000 IQD. #AzadiRail

After 3 hours, I arrived in #Zaxo / #Zakho, right at the border to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Habur and 20 km from the border of ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡พ Feyesh Khabur.

Zaxo is a fascinating city : it had around 30.000 inhabitants 50 years ago. With the de-facto autonomy of  #Kurdistan in the Seventies, it suddenly attracted Kurds from all over the region and grew to the 200.000 inhabitants. Nowadays it's an economically important hub for trade between  Kurdistan, ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ Iraq, the ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡พ Democratic Autonomous Administration of North and East Syria /  #Rojava and ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Turkey.

I was highly surprised, I expected an ugly, transportation and cargo industry hub but what I got was a beautiful, clean, green and prosperous city which rather looks like in wealthy parts of Spain or Italy.

Despite its economic importance, from an international tourism perspective, Zaxo is pretty irrelevant. From a local tourism perspective, Zaxo in opposite is a major cultural attraction for Kurds from the region. Right now, Zaxo prepares for the Seluserik Festival next week. The only internationally known tourist attraction seems to be the #DelalBridge - now with a brand new, beautiful museum next to it. #AzadiRail

This said : everything prepared for trying to cross the #PรชลŸabรปr / #FayshKhabur border crossing from ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ Iraq /  #Kurdistan to ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡พ Syria  #Rojava. #AzadiRail
You will be able to enter Syria / Rojava
50%
Kurdistan will let you leave but can't enter Syria
31.3%
The border will be closed
12.5%
You will strand in Faysh Khabur
6.3%
Poll ended at .
Organized some more cash โœ…. Heck, it's hard to find ATMs accepting international bank cards in #Kurdistan ๐Ÿง. Anyways, after a short evening walk, got enough cash to pay my remaining days of vacation. #AzadiRail

#AzadiRail day 9 was : #AzadiBus with flaws from  #Hewlรชr / #Erbil to  #Zaxo / #Zakho, a relaxed afternoon and travel preparations for tomorrow.

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ด๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท

#AzadiRail day 10 : first failed attempt at the #Semalki border crossing in  #PรชลŸabรปr / #FayshKhabur. The ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ Iraqi  Kurdish officer at the border told me the border was closed on Saturdays, so here I am, back in  #Zaxo / #Zakho spending another day on the bazar waiting for the border to open tomorrow morning.

But so far, this is already some progress : I now know In fact I can cross the border to ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡พ #Syria /  #Rojava by foot.

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ด๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡พ

After the frustrating outcome of this morning, I decided to stay in  #Zaxo / #Zakho for one more day.

I took the time to visit the citadel, an ancient fortress from Roman and Byzantine times. It was beautifully renovated in past years and a pleasure to visit. The rest of the day, I was walking around on the bazar, enjoying snacks and ร‡ay ๐Ÿฅฐ.

So far, #AzadiRail day 10 : to the border of ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡พ Syria /  #Rojava but sadly back to ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ Iraqi  #Kurdistan from there on. Next attempt tomorrow morning.

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ด๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡พ

#AzadiRail day 11 was a boring day : I stumbled into the city of  #Dihok / #Duhok, capital of a local province. The city does not convince me at all : the much  #Zaxo / #Zakho was a positive and outstanding surprise, the sad and boring Dihok feels to me. There are no sights, no historic building, no modern city center, no parks. Not even a good bazar, nor cafรฉs.

Anyways, this is sadly already my last night in  #Kurdistan. Tomorrow I'll start my trip back home ๐Ÿ˜ฅ.

#AzadiRail day 11 : Sadly vacation is ending soon so slowly time to get back to France. Homebound day 1 : My #AzadiBus from  #Dihok / #Duhok sadly was canceled. After asking each and every ticket counter in the International Bus Terminal, the conclusion seemed to be : not just my bus was canceled, but pretty every bus. Seemingly in at 5 p.m. there will be the next bus bringing me to  #รŠlih / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Batman. That means yet another boring day doing nothing and waiting at the bus terminal since that so far is the most comfortable spot I found in this weird city.

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ด๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡พ

Since 12 p.m. I've been the only passenger in the bus terminal. In opposite, there are about 30 staff members here : about 10 different ticket offices, one for each operator, a supermarket, a car rental stand, a restaurant, a cafรฉ, security ... 30 people here to operate a bus terminal. But simply no bus nor passengers to operate. #AzadiRail
#AzadiRail, 4 p.m. Still 0 other passengers at the terminal. Still supposedly 1 hour until the departure of my #AzadiBus.
In 40 minutes, I'm supposed to arrive at my destination. In fact, my #AzadiBus has not even crossed the border into Turkey. So far 4 hours of border controls. #AzadiRail

Anyways, now that I have internet, some pictures from the #AzadiBus trip :

The International Terminal of  #Dihok / #Duhok is a bit of a joke : there's a giant terminal with gates to the bus platforms but since going there would mean a dรฉtour, the busses in fact stop on the sideway of the highway close by.

Some minutes prior to departure, a taxi drives over and picks up all passengers (at the end we were 3) and drives them for the 2 km to the bus's actual stop.

With 3ยฝ h delay, our bus arrived. It's a comfortable mainline bus and the landscape of mesopotamia was yet beautiful.

#AzadiRail

Bus eepy, bus push. #AzadiRail
After one hour, we reached the  #IbrahimKhalil / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Habur border crossing. Yet another hour later waiting in front of the border crossing, we could enter it - once again featuring funny let's-walk-over-the-highway boarding. One hour later, we could get to the passport check. Yet another hour later, the  Iraqi Kurdistan administration was ready checking our #AzadiBus for smuggling goods (haha, good joke) and let us leave #Kurdistan. #AzadiRail

Almost 12 a.m. border crossed. Welcome back to Turkish Kurdistan โœŠ !

#AzadiRail homeward day & night #1 :

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท

After one more hours, I was now taken to *another* #AzadiBus. They say my bus won't stop in  #รŠlih / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Batman today so I should take that other one. It's not getting better, is it ?

Anyways, I'm now sitting in a bus and we're about to depart. ETA : 4 a.m. - heck, I'm tired. #AzadiRail

Finally, on our way to  #รŠlih !
Things I won't miss in Europe : People smoking in every bus I take ๐Ÿ™„. #AzadiRail
1 a.m., first #AzadiBus rest at a highway rest area. I'm cold. #AzadiRail
Can they just stop smoking inside the bus ๐Ÿคฌ ? #AzadiRail
#AzadiBus 3.30 a.m.,  Midyad / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Midyat. Next stop :  #รŠlih / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Batman. I'm tired. #AzadiRail
4.45 a.m.,  #รŠlih / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Batman. My #AzadiBus destination for today. Delay of 6 hours. #AzadiRail
I swear, next vacation will be less busses by night. #AzadiRail
After a long sleep, tasty afternoon #baklava with #ร‡ay in  #รŠlih / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Batman. #AzadiRail

Finally back on track ! After a week of bus travels, my first #AzadiRail train back home : I'm in  #รŠlih / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Batman waiting for the famous  #GรผneyEkspresi / Southern Express #SleeperAndEater bringing my to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Ankara for the next 25 hours.

รŠlih is a cute station, a couple of cargo carriages in the cargo terminal, a cute maintenance vehicle for display, three tracks but sadly no catenary.

The station has three train pairs per day : twice the regional link to the Kurdish capital  #Amed / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Diyarbakฤฑr and six days per week a pair of my Gรผney Ekspresi linking  #Misircรช / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Kurtalan, รŠlih, Amed and ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Malatya with #Ankara over night.

Shortly after the arrival of the local train from  #Amed / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Diyarbakฤฑr, my  #SleeperAndEater #GรผneyEkspresi arrived. It features most comfortable and spacious wagon-lits compartments with a desk, two proper beds, a sink and even a mini-bar - a comfortable hotel room for the next 25 hours.

The steward was already waiting for me and didn't even wanna see my ticket since I was the only passenger boarding the wagon-lits carriage.

#AzadiRail #TeamNightTrain

25 hours. This is btw. my longest train leg on European gauge ๐Ÿ˜‡ ! #AzadiRail

The weird thing about  Turkish railways : You have three different train types but their speeds don't match :

YHT high-speed trains : Vmax 300 kph
Mainline trains : Vmax 50 kph
Regional trains : Vmax 140 kph

... ???

#AzadiRail

Enjoying lunch in a  @diningcar during my #AzadiRail journey from  Iraqi #Kurdistan to France, today on the famous  #GรผneyEkspresi / Southern Express #SleeperAndEater on my 25 hours trip from  #รŠlih / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Batman to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Ankara ๐Ÿ˜‹ !

Since the vegan choice is sadly highly limited, I decided for a plate of rice with some side salad, some fruit juice and of course a glass of #ร‡ay ๐Ÿต!

Save travels everyone and enjoy your meal ๐Ÿฝ๏ธ !

So far, #AzadiRail day #13, homebound day and night #3 : comfortable  #GรผneyEkspresi #SleeperAndEater from  #รŠlih / ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท Batman to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Ankara ๐Ÿฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ˜ด.

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท

#AzadiRail day #14, homebound day #4 begins with tasty breakfast in the  @diningcar of the  #GรผneyEkspresi #SleeperAndEater . The vegan options are highly limited but I reached at explaining I only want #ร‡ay , bread and jam.

#TeamNightTrain

40 km left until ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Ankara, Vmax 50 kph and my connecting train is leaving in 40 minutes.

Am I going to miss my  YHT ?

You will ...

#AzadiRail

Miss your YHT
61.9%
Miss the YHT and the connecting night train
38.1%
Poll ended at .
Bad news, the only other possible YHT is fully booked ๐Ÿ™„. #AzadiRail
Still 20 km to Ankara and 20 minutes until the last YHT departure. I fear this won't work out either. So far : 2 h delay. #AzadiRail

I still made it to the train but they didn't let me in even though they understood I'd miss my train to ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ ะกะพั„ั–ั / Sofia this way.

Some people aren't just bad but actually evil. #AzadiRail

Anyways, Obilet for help : My alternative #AzadiRail plan is now to take some later  YHT from ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Ankara to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Istanbul, from there on take one more #AzadiBus to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Kapikule and hopefully catch my night train to ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ #ะกะพั„ั–ั / #Sofia there at 2 a.m. ๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿซฃ.

What an asshole at the ticket check.

I guess I'll be ending up with more night busses than night trains on my #AzadiRail trip ๐Ÿซฃ.

Next train for my #AzadiRail trip : the comfortable  class HT80000 Velaro from ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Ankara to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Istanbul.

I got the last available seat in the train, a luxury first class compartment seat, similar to the business class in first generation  trains.

This YHT comes from ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Sivas, where I've been at around 2 a.m. in my #GรผneyEkspresi . For the ne?t four hours, this means some relaxing time before boarding my #AzadiBus to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Kapikule tonight.

After that the  YHT arrived one hour delayed in ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Istanbul, I missed my booked bus as well. A quick rebooking and after tasty Pide for dinner, here I am, waiting for my #AzadiBus to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Kapikule to leave. So far, everything that could go wrong today went wrong. #AzadiRail
Here we are : #AzadiBus to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Kapikule ready for departure. #AzadiRail

So far, #AzadiRail day #14, homebound day & night #4 :

 night train to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Ankara 2 hours late, I missed my  YHT to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Istanbul
- next YHT not willing to take me with them, knowing that this let me miss ly connecting train
- finally caught an YHT, but that one had 1 hour delay
- I missed my alternative connecting bus to ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Kapikule
- finally found a later bus still eventually making the transfer
- I'll hopefully catch my connecting train from ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Kapikule to ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ #ะกะพั„ั–ั / #Sofia at 2.30 a.m.

What a bad luck. What a mess. What a chaos. What a stress.

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ

#AzadiRail night 14, homebound night #4 : ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Kapikule.

The border officers were highly surprised by someone arriving by foot, were checking my ticket and seemed quite amused when they learned I also intended to take the train from ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท #Istanbul on but missed it and arrived by bus ๐Ÿซฃ.

Anyways, my Istanbul-Sofia-Express has not arrived yet. Instead, the opposite direction from ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ #ะกะพั„ั–ั / #Sofia is still waiting here.

After a quick but careful luggage and passport check I was told my train is delayed by about an hour ; nothing unusual here. So one more hour of waiting before getting my deserved bed.

In other words : time for some last good night #ร‡ay ๐Ÿฅฐ ! #AzadiRail

2.45 a.m. : my Istanbul-Sofia-Ekspesi arrived.

My reserved cabin has already been occupied by someone else so I decided to just grab one of the numerous empty compartments in the other carriage.

#AzadiRail good night. Alarm clock set to ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ #ะกะพั„ั–ั / #Sofia ๐Ÿ˜ด. #TeamNightTrain

What an eventful day ๐Ÿ™„.

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ

Welcome to ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ Bulgaria ! #AzadiRail

๐Ÿš‚๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ถ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ฌ

@lewd Fingers crossed ๐Ÿคž๐Ÿป
@lewd Crap. Maybe a chance to still get a last minute ticket for the next YHT due to some short-notice rebooked tickets? (I made some TGV experiences going this wayโ€ฆ)
@wrzlbrnft Yeah, that's not the issue, I got a ticket for a later one but I'll miss my connecting train to Sofia this way.
@lewd I suppose you already have a plan B or something.
But still: there might be a chance to catch a bus from ฤฐstanbul to Edirne (usually about 2h30) and then a taxi to Kapฤฑkule where you could reach the sleeper (departure 2:20 - in reality usually later).
@lewd Okay, now I saw you've got the same idea. ๐Ÿ˜…
Fingers crossed. ๐Ÿคž
@lewd Get on it anyway! Itโ€™s an emergency
@lewd according to math you will definitly miss your train
@lewd I suppose it's very hard in general to live vegan in this part of the world?
@lewd thank you for your travel thread, I've been following since a couple of days and it really makes me want to explore Turkey by train soon. The current train looks rather empty, is that typical or just off-season? While travelling, do you get along well with English in the country? And may I ask if you used interrail or single tickets on Turkish trains?
Safe travels!

@slateroni Well, the sleeper carriages are usually pretty full, you should book them a bit in advance.

I technically have an InterRail ticket but Turkey only accepts them in second class. Since I travel in first class, I bought single tickets for everything but the local trains. But considering the prices in Turkey, that's pretty affordable.

At the international ticket counters, they speak English, apart from that, it's rather a 50/50 chance - but at the end I always reached at explaining what I wanted to explain.