#AzadiRail day 11 was a boring day : I stumbled into the city of  #Dihok / #Duhok, capital of a local province. The city does not convince me at all : the much  #Zaxo / #Zakho was a positive and outstanding surprise, the sad and boring Dihok feels to me. There are no sights, no historic building, no modern city center, no parks. Not even a good bazar, nor cafés.

Anyways, this is sadly already my last night in  #Kurdistan. Tomorrow I'll start my trip back home 😥.

#AzadiRail day 11 : Sadly vacation is ending soon so slowly time to get back to France. Homebound day 1 : My #AzadiBus from  #Dihok / #Duhok sadly was canceled. After asking each and every ticket counter in the International Bus Terminal, the conclusion seemed to be : not just my bus was canceled, but pretty every bus. Seemingly in at 5 p.m. there will be the next bus bringing me to  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman. That means yet another boring day doing nothing and waiting at the bus terminal since that so far is the most comfortable spot I found in this weird city.

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Since 12 p.m. I've been the only passenger in the bus terminal. In opposite, there are about 30 staff members here : about 10 different ticket offices, one for each operator, a supermarket, a car rental stand, a restaurant, a café, security ... 30 people here to operate a bus terminal. But simply no bus nor passengers to operate. #AzadiRail
#AzadiRail, 4 p.m. Still 0 other passengers at the terminal. Still supposedly 1 hour until the departure of my #AzadiBus.
In 40 minutes, I'm supposed to arrive at my destination. In fact, my #AzadiBus has not even crossed the border into Turkey. So far 4 hours of border controls. #AzadiRail

Anyways, now that I have internet, some pictures from the #AzadiBus trip :

The International Terminal of  #Dihok / #Duhok is a bit of a joke : there's a giant terminal with gates to the bus platforms but since going there would mean a détour, the busses in fact stop on the sideway of the highway close by.

Some minutes prior to departure, a taxi drives over and picks up all passengers (at the end we were 3) and drives them for the 2 km to the bus's actual stop.

With 3½ h delay, our bus arrived. It's a comfortable mainline bus and the landscape of mesopotamia was yet beautiful.

#AzadiRail

Bus eepy, bus push. #AzadiRail
After one hour, we reached the  #IbrahimKhalil / 🇹🇷 #Habur border crossing. Yet another hour later waiting in front of the border crossing, we could enter it - once again featuring funny let's-walk-over-the-highway boarding. One hour later, we could get to the passport check. Yet another hour later, the  Iraqi Kurdistan administration was ready checking our #AzadiBus for smuggling goods (haha, good joke) and let us leave #Kurdistan. #AzadiRail

Almost 12 a.m. border crossed. Welcome back to Turkish Kurdistan ✊ !

#AzadiRail homeward day & night #1 :

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After one more hours, I was now taken to *another* #AzadiBus. They say my bus won't stop in  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman today so I should take that other one. It's not getting better, is it ?

Anyways, I'm now sitting in a bus and we're about to depart. ETA : 4 a.m. - heck, I'm tired. #AzadiRail

Finally, on our way to  #Êlih !
Things I won't miss in Europe : People smoking in every bus I take 🙄. #AzadiRail
1 a.m., first #AzadiBus rest at a highway rest area. I'm cold. #AzadiRail
Can they just stop smoking inside the bus 🤬 ? #AzadiRail
#AzadiBus 3.30 a.m.,  Midyad / 🇹🇷 Midyat. Next stop :  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman. I'm tired. #AzadiRail
4.45 a.m.,  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman. My #AzadiBus destination for today. Delay of 6 hours. #AzadiRail
I swear, next vacation will be less busses by night. #AzadiRail
After a long sleep, tasty afternoon #baklava with #Çay in  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman. #AzadiRail

Finally back on track ! After a week of bus travels, my first #AzadiRail train back home : I'm in  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman waiting for the famous  #GüneyEkspresi / Southern Express #SleeperAndEater bringing my to 🇹🇷 #Ankara for the next 25 hours.

Êlih is a cute station, a couple of cargo carriages in the cargo terminal, a cute maintenance vehicle for display, three tracks but sadly no catenary.

The station has three train pairs per day : twice the regional link to the Kurdish capital  #Amed / 🇹🇷 #Diyarbakır and six days per week a pair of my Güney Ekspresi linking  #Misircê / 🇹🇷 #Kurtalan, Êlih, Amed and 🇹🇷 #Malatya with #Ankara over night.

Shortly after the arrival of the local train from  #Amed / 🇹🇷 #Diyarbakır, my  #SleeperAndEater #GüneyEkspresi arrived. It features most comfortable and spacious wagon-lits compartments with a desk, two proper beds, a sink and even a mini-bar - a comfortable hotel room for the next 25 hours.

The steward was already waiting for me and didn't even wanna see my ticket since I was the only passenger boarding the wagon-lits carriage.

#AzadiRail #TeamNightTrain

25 hours. This is btw. my longest train leg on European gauge 😇 ! #AzadiRail

The weird thing about  Turkish railways : You have three different train types but their speeds don't match :

YHT high-speed trains : Vmax 300 kph
Mainline trains : Vmax 50 kph
Regional trains : Vmax 140 kph

... ???

#AzadiRail

Enjoying lunch in a  @diningcar during my #AzadiRail journey from  Iraqi #Kurdistan to France, today on the famous  #GüneyEkspresi / Southern Express #SleeperAndEater on my 25 hours trip from  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman to 🇹🇷 #Ankara 😋 !

Since the vegan choice is sadly highly limited, I decided for a plate of rice with some side salad, some fruit juice and of course a glass of #Çay 🍵!

Save travels everyone and enjoy your meal 🍽️ !

So far, #AzadiRail day #13, homebound day and night #3 : comfortable  #GüneyEkspresi #SleeperAndEater from  #Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman to 🇹🇷 #Ankara 🍽️😴.

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#AzadiRail day #14, homebound day #4 begins with tasty breakfast in the  @diningcar of the  #GüneyEkspresi #SleeperAndEater . The vegan options are highly limited but I reached at explaining I only want #Çay , bread and jam.

#TeamNightTrain

40 km left until 🇹🇷 #Ankara, Vmax 50 kph and my connecting train is leaving in 40 minutes.

Am I going to miss my  YHT ?

You will ...

#AzadiRail

Miss your YHT
61.9%
Miss the YHT and the connecting night train
38.1%
Poll ended at .
Bad news, the only other possible YHT is fully booked 🙄. #AzadiRail
Still 20 km to Ankara and 20 minutes until the last YHT departure. I fear this won't work out either. So far : 2 h delay. #AzadiRail

I still made it to the train but they didn't let me in even though they understood I'd miss my train to 🇧🇬 Софія / Sofia this way.

Some people aren't just bad but actually evil. #AzadiRail

Anyways, Obilet for help : My alternative #AzadiRail plan is now to take some later  YHT from 🇹🇷 #Ankara to 🇹🇷 #Istanbul, from there on take one more #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule and hopefully catch my night train to 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia there at 2 a.m. 🙄🫣.

What an asshole at the ticket check.

I guess I'll be ending up with more night busses than night trains on my #AzadiRail trip 🫣.

Next train for my #AzadiRail trip : the comfortable  class HT80000 Velaro from 🇹🇷 #Ankara to 🇹🇷 #Istanbul.

I got the last available seat in the train, a luxury first class compartment seat, similar to the business class in first generation  trains.

This YHT comes from 🇹🇷 #Sivas, where I've been at around 2 a.m. in my #GüneyEkspresi . For the ne?t four hours, this means some relaxing time before boarding my #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule tonight.

After that the  YHT arrived one hour delayed in 🇹🇷 #Istanbul, I missed my booked bus as well. A quick rebooking and after tasty Pide for dinner, here I am, waiting for my #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule to leave. So far, everything that could go wrong today went wrong. #AzadiRail
Here we are : #AzadiBus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule ready for departure. #AzadiRail

So far, #AzadiRail day #14, homebound day & night #4 :

 night train to 🇹🇷 #Ankara 2 hours late, I missed my  YHT to 🇹🇷 #Istanbul
- next YHT not willing to take me with them, knowing that this let me miss ly connecting train
- finally caught an YHT, but that one had 1 hour delay
- I missed my alternative connecting bus to 🇹🇷 #Kapikule
- finally found a later bus still eventually making the transfer
- I'll hopefully catch my connecting train from 🇹🇷 #Kapikule to 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia at 2.30 a.m.

What a bad luck. What a mess. What a chaos. What a stress.

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬

#AzadiRail night 14, homebound night #4 : 🇹🇷 #Kapikule.

The border officers were highly surprised by someone arriving by foot, were checking my ticket and seemed quite amused when they learned I also intended to take the train from 🇹🇷 #Istanbul on but missed it and arrived by bus 🫣.

Anyways, my Istanbul-Sofia-Express has not arrived yet. Instead, the opposite direction from 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia is still waiting here.

After a quick but careful luggage and passport check I was told my train is delayed by about an hour ; nothing unusual here. So one more hour of waiting before getting my deserved bed.

In other words : time for some last good night #Çay 🥰 ! #AzadiRail

2.45 a.m. : my Istanbul-Sofia-Ekspesi arrived.

My reserved cabin has already been occupied by someone else so I decided to just grab one of the numerous empty compartments in the other carriage.

#AzadiRail good night. Alarm clock set to 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia 😴. #TeamNightTrain

What an eventful day 🙄.

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Welcome to 🇧🇬 Bulgaria ! #AzadiRail

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬

Good morning 🇧🇬 #Софія / #Sofia 🌇 ! #AzadiRail

After a quick ride by the  suburban replacement train in a familiar Siemens Desiro Classic, I reached 🇧🇬 #Софія Севея / Sofia North where I caught my comfortable Intercity Fast train #RealInterCity consisting of beautifully repainted   ex-DB InterCity carriages taking me to my first destination today : 🇧🇬 #ГорнаОряховица / #GornaOryahovitsa.

#AzadiRail day 15, homebound day 5 has begun.

From 🇧🇬 #ГорнаОряховица / #GornaOryahovitsa, an amazing old Soviet ER25 EMU serving as  class 32 will bring me further to 🇧🇬 #Русе / #Ruse, right at the 🇷🇴 Romanian border.

Amazing vehicles 🤩🤩🤩 ! #AzadiRail #TeamOpenWindows

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After two more hours in the amazing  ER25, I reached today's #AzadiRail destination : 🇧🇬 #Русе / #Ruse, right at the 🇷🇴 Romanian border.

So far, #AzadiRail day 15. Now time for a long sleep after the short night 😴.

#AzadiRail day #16, homebound day #6 : From 🇧🇬 #Русе / #Ruse, a small mini bus 🚌 will bring me to 🇷🇴 #Bucuresti. The bus is packed but the #AzadiBus trip will only take 2 hours.

After some waiting time due to construction work on the 🇧🇬🇷🇴 Friendship Bridge, my #AzadiBus reached 🇷🇴 #Giurgiu. The railway tracks on the bridge still look as misplaced as always, considering how there's only one #CrossBorderRail train pair per day, the probably even *are* misplaced. #AzadiRail

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴

Good morning 🇷🇴 #București ! #AzadiRail

After a relaxed day in 🇷🇴 #Bucuresti, time to head over to the amazing Gara de Nord. Still enough time to watch all the amazing trains here before the arrival of my  #Dacia on my way to 🇦🇹 #Wien / #Vienna. #AzadiRail

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Night train arrived, I got a comfortable private compartment with a toilet and shower facilities. That's gonna be useful during the 18 hours of travel time. Once again,  know how to design comfortable night train carriages ; both their wagon-lits and their couchette carriages are amongst the best in Europe IMHO. #AzadiRail #TeamNightTrain #SleeperAndEater

So far, #AzadiRail day & night #16, homebound day & night #6 : From 🇧🇬 #Русе / #Ruse to 🇷🇴 #București / #Bucharest by 🚌 mini bus #AzadiBus, afterwards a relaxed day in Bucuresti and now by   #Dacia night train via 🇭🇺 #Budapest to 🇦🇹 #Wien / #Vienna 😴.

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴🇭🇺🇦🇹

Everything so awful 🥰🥰🥰 ! #AzadiRail

OH(ÖBB) : You look like you just arrived by night train.
OH(me) : Indeed, I did. From Bucharest.
OH(ÖBB) : Oh, I hope it was comfortable.
OH(me) : Yes, it was excellent.
OH(ÖBB) : Really, I can't believe people actually enjoy night trains.

... ? #AzadiRail

Good morning 🇦🇹 #Wien / #Vienna 🤩 !

The night train trip in the   IRN #Dacia wagon-lits was excellent. We arrived just on time. After a quick shower, I sadly didn't have enough time left for breakfast in the #SleeperAndEater @diningcar - btw. one of the few night trains with different dining cars on different sections of the journey : a  CFR bistro carriage between 🇷🇴 #București / #Bucharest and 🇷🇴 #Arad and a  MÁV @diningcar between 🇭🇺 #Budapest and 🇦🇹 #Wien / #Vienna.

Now time to grab some snacks in Vienna main station before boarding my   bringing me to my first destination for today : 🇩🇪 #Nürnberg / #Nuremberg .

#AzadiRail day 17, homebound day 7 has begun. Sadly already the last day of my amazing trip.

My train for the next few hours : a comfortable and amazingly designed   ICE T  bringing my to 🇩🇪 #Nürnberg / #Nuremberg 🥰 ! #AzadiRail
I absolutely love ICE T trains : 200 kph feels like floating above the tracks. You feel absolutely no vibration 🥰. #AzadiRail

Checking some #AzadiRail stats :

- 8375 km by train
- 9 countries :
- 🇫🇷 France
- 🇩🇪 Germany
- 🇦🇹 Austria
- 🇭🇺 Hungary
- 🇷🇴 Romania
- 🇧🇬 Bulgaria
- 🇹🇷 Turkey
 -  #Kurdistan
- 🇹🇷 Turkish Kurdistan
- 🇮🇶 Iraqi Kurdistan
- 🇸🇾 #Rojava
- 6 night trains
 -   #KalmanImre
 -  IRN #Muntenia
 -  #IstanbulSofiaEkspresi 2x
 -  #GüneyEkspresi
 -  IRN #Dacia
- 6 #AzadiBus trips
 - 🇹🇷 Malatya -  Amed / 🇹🇷 Diyarbakır night bus
 -  Amed / 🇹🇷 Diyarbakır -  Hewlêr / 🇮🇶 Erbil day bus
 -  Hewlêr / 🇮🇶 Erbil -  Zaxo / 🇮🇶 Zakho day bus
 -  Zaxo / 🇮🇶 Erbil -  Êlih / 🇹🇷 Batman night bus
- 🇹🇷 Istanbul - 🇹🇷 Kapikule night bus
- 🇧🇬 Русе / Ruse - 🇷🇴 Bucuresti / Bucharest day bus
- 17 travel days in total
- 8 days outbound travels
- 10 different trains
- 7 days homebound travels
- 12 different trains

I hope you enjoyed reading my travel reports and maybe found it inspiring ! Your feedback and likes kept pushing me to go further even during the most miserable travel days 🥰 !

#JinJîyanAzadî - keep fighting for a free, open and democratic Kurdistan ✊ !

🇩🇪 #Passau. Train arrives on time and bam, 10 minutes delay. Heck, how does Germany reach at delaying any train crossing its border 🤯 ? #AzadiRail
German police should pay for the delay compensation of every train they delay by illegal border checks. #AzadiRail #Schengen
From 🇩🇪 #Nürnberg / #Nuremberg, a   Velaro D brings me further to 🇩🇪 #Frankfurt. Time for a final #AzadiRail @diningcar visit : tasty Vegan Curry Sausage along with some lemonade 😋.

Last miles : from 🇩🇪 #Frankfurt a grimy   Velaro D brought me to 🇩🇪 #Karlsruhe - with an exceptional change in 🇩🇪 #Darmstadt where they changed the vehicle.

From 🇩🇪 #Karlsruhe on, homeward by my casual  Bombardier TALENT DMU with a last change in 🇩🇪 #Wörth before crossing the border back to 🇫🇷 Alsace. #AzadiRail

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴🇭🇺🇦🇹🇩🇪🇫🇷

Final destination for my #AzadiRail trip : after 17 days of travels, a grimy old  class 628 brought me back to 🇫🇷 #Lauterbourg where I was greeted by #UneBaleineUneBaleine and a cute Régiolis transfrontalier 🇪🇺.

17 days of amazing trains, relaxed travels, beautiful impressions and many kind people.

From 🇫🇷 France to  #Kurdistan by public transport and back again.

Thanks a lot for reading 🥰 !

🚂🇮🇶🇹🇷🇧🇬🇷🇴🇭🇺🇦🇹🇩🇪🇫🇷

@lewd Kleiner Stadler SMILE :3
@lewd @diningcar oooh, vegan curry sausage! I'd love to have that

@lewd bring back Begrüßungsgeld but for everyone crossing the border

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Begr%C3%BC%C3%9Fungsgeld

Begrüßungsgeld - Wikipedia

@lewd Schengen isn't Schengen-ing it seems.
@lewd
Thank you so much for sharing your impressions of a truly magnificent trip! I wish you a enjoyable ending!
@lewd wow. This IS inspiring! Did you only go by bus and train with no hotels?
@chris No, sure I stayed in hotels as well.
@lewd well it is very very cool. I would love to see your itinerary
@chris Check https://zug.network/tags/AzadiRail for my full travel report !
Zug.Network

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@lewd amazing journey, thanks for pushing through and documenting so extensively. I remember the Habur Border Crossing in 1999 and post 2003. Both times it was such a degrading experience.

Just another side-note regarding naming: Nowadays most Kurds call Northern Kurdistan (occupied by Turkey) Bakûr, Southern Kurdistan (occupied by Iraq) Bashûr and Eastern Kurdistan (occupied by Iran) is Rojhelat.

@lewd Same! An absolute favourite. I can’t believe that they are to be phased out (on inner-German routes at least)
@lewd @diningcar Welcome to Vienna and safe journey back home 🥰
@stadtstreunen_at Thanks 🥰 ! Are you from Vienna ?
@lewd Yes 🙌🏻
@stadtstreunen_at Good to know, if you like, I'll let you know when I'm in Vienna with a longer transfer next time 🤩 !
@lewd Yes please! I will introduce you to the Viennese art of coffee drinking if you want 🥐☕️
@stadtstreunen_at That sounds tempting ! I'll definitely let you know next time !

@lewd Das wurde ein Kollege der den NightJet von Wien nach DE genommen hat von Bpol auch schon gefragt.

Er hatte halt Noice Cancelling Kopfhörer an und hat geschlafen, bis die Tür aufgebrochen wurde und er von mehreren Polizisten umzingelt war der eine gefragt hat, was ihm einfiele im Nachtzug zu schlafen.

Und das das der eine das nie schaffen würde

@lewd You're right and they're wrong!
@lewd How utterly dreadful, you poor thing. 😍
@lewd Looks great, can’t wait to travel on it myself later this year…
Any way to make sure to get an en suite on the Dacia, or is it just the luck of the draw?
@martijnk If you book at the counter, you can specify the compartment you wanna have as long as you know which compartments are first class compartments. If you book online, it's best luck.
@lewd Don’t want to risk not getting a compartment at all, so I guess I’ll book online, and then when I arrive in Romania, try to switch it to an en-suite compartment if possible…
I can probably/hopefully see which ones those are on Vagonweb?
@martijnk You can book it at any counter in most countries, not just Romania. The suite compartments are the ones with the bed numbers X1 and X4, so basically the ones with two beds rather than 3. Vagonweb does mot have a mapping but you can look it up in the CFR app.
@lewd Didn’t think of booking it at the counter right here in Brussels… Will go to the station soon then!
Thanks for the very helpful info, and enjoy the rest of your trip!
@martijnk Oh, SNCF International *might* be an issue. I guess @maartje might be able to tell you if SNCF can book ÖBB reservations.
@martijnk @maartje (Otherwise, what I keep doing is using the ÖBB app and booking as many times until I get a first class compartment and then cancel all other reservations.)

@lewd @martijnk you mean SNCB?

They can only do as far as Hungary via MAV, Croatia via OBB but not Romania…

@maartje @lewd Annoying… Are the bed numbers only visible after I actually pay on the ÖBB Then I'd have to make sure I can make several bookings with my credit card…
Wouldn't I see those as well on the (cheaper?) CFR site after booking?
@martijnk @maartje No, the prices are same at ÖBB and CFR. You only see the reserved bed number after you got the ticket, so you'll need to pay and get it reimbursed.

@lewd @maartje Would that pay-cancel-reimburse work for either one?

ÖBB price adds up to €192 for me (1 person room is “Nicht für gewähltes Angebot verfügbar”, only when I select Komfortticket).

On CFR it's 819.77 Lei (€ 165,14) for the ‘Special tariff’ (I can select the single room there). Even the ‘standard tariff’ of 909.51 Lei (€ 183,22) is lover than that of ÖBB? Unless something else is added later on in the ordering process…
(both searches were for Brasov-Wien)

@martijnk @maartje Well, I'm only familiar with the reservation only fares, not those including the ticket price. For these, CFR might be cheaper, yes.
@lewd
The cut red trains were once NS yellow 'wadlopers' running in the North of the Netherlands....
I only was at the train station, but there was a shop with vegan chicken nuggets I think. They were pretty good.
@waii I already planned by food. I'll grab breakfast in Sublimme in the downtown.