Be gone pesky radials!

One of the biggest bugbears of portable operations in a public space when using a vertical antenna is having to lay out radials – either on the ground, or raised. I have told the story of the dancing lady before on this blog; she performed a little jig when advised to be careful of the wires on the ground. Some of the parks I frequent are quite small and busy in the summer months, so I always have to be cautious about creating a potential hazard for other park users.

Even if I find a nice quiet area along a trail, there is often limited space in which to spread my wires. Alternatively, I may be on a mission to operate with multiple rapid deployments – drop my pack, super fast setup, operate, move on. A small vertical antenna is a very convenient way of getting on the air with minimum fuss – except for the radials.

What is the function of radials?

It doesn’t matter whether the radials are on the ground or raised, they form a counterpoise – “the other half” of an antenna. The current flowing through the radial system controls the current flowing into the radiating element. An efficient set of radials allows maximum current to flow through the whole antenna system. The current flowing in the radiating element is equal to the current flowing into the radials. More current equals more signal being radiated.

We can throw a single wire on the ground and call it a counterpoise – there seems to be a magic length of 17 feet, at least that’s what we may be led to believe from reading many online accounts. Seventeen feet may be approximately a quarter wave on 20m, but it is detuned by proximity to the ground. Is it efficient? Well, it’s better than nothing. Without that wire the operator may become the counterpoise – RF gotta go somewhere.

Transceivers can’t count radials

Let’s pretend that transceivers have eyes for a minute. When the transceiver looks at a counterpoise – whether its made of wire radials, or has a callsign – all it really “sees” is a combination of Resistance, Inductance and Capacitance (RLC). Transceivers can’t count radials – you read it here first! Resistance, Inductance and Capacitance are seen as impedance. An efficient set of radials has a low impedance to RF which allows maximum current to flow. So isn’t the current flowing into the counterpoise system really the most important factor in determining its efficiency?

Hams endlessly debate about how many radials make an efficient counterpoise. Is it 4; is it 16, or maybe 128? The debate is pointless unless other factors are also considered. The correct number is just ONE – if your antenna is erected in seawater. I want to propose another number – ZERO and, in the true spirit of scientific endeavor, I have empirical evidence to support my assertion. If an assertion cannot be verified by experiment it just ain’t so.

“I would rather have questions that can’t be answered than answers that can’t be questioned.”
― Richard Feynman

Here is the experiment

The SWR is hard to read due to the bright sunlight – it is 13. The GTU had not yet been adjusted for maximum counterpoise current. Observe the small deflection on the RF current meter. The SWR is difficult to read due to the bright sunlight; it reads 1.79.
The strange blue thing in the antenna wire is a small loading coil.
Observe the higher deflection on the RF current meter after the GTU had been adjusted for maximum current in the counterpoise.

The experiment was conducted in the Ham Radio Outside the Box outdoor laboratory (my driveway). A welcome rise in temperature had melted the ice from my concrete driveway and, for once, the Sun was shining. I wanted to test a “de minimis” rapid deployment antenna that would also serve to verify my assertion about counterpoise efficiency.

The initial test was conducted with my 20m emergency wire antenna (a coil-loaded 13ft wire). Instead of radial wires I used my GTU (Ground Tuning Unit).

A GTU is a series connected L-C device. There is a sensor circuit connected to a small analog meter for observing the current passing through the device. The GTU case is a Hammond aluminum box which is electrically connected to the ground side of the GTU. The input to the GTU is a short wire connected to the shield of the coax at the antenna end.

To monitor the current in the radiating element an RF current meter was inserted into the radiator wire. The current meter is basically a GTU without the tuned circuit.

The GTU was placed directly on the concrete driveway; its aluminum box forming a capacitive connection to ground. It would have been more effective to perform the experiment on grass, but my lawn is still buried under a miniature glacier formed by another dreadful winter that isn’t over yet.

The 20m emergency antenna is nominally resonant when a counterpoise is attached so no further tuning was required. The absence of radials required the GTU to do the job of maximizing the current flow on the ground side of the antenna.

At the start of the experiment there was a small current flowing to ground. A similarly small current was observed flowing into the radiator wire (see images). The antenna analyzer recorded an SWR of 13:1.

As the GTU was tuned the ground current increased. It was observed that the current in the radiator also increased. Neither meter was capable of measuring the value of current, so the readings simply represented the relative flow of currents in the counterpoise and radiator. As the ground current peaked the antenna analyzer showed a much improved 1.79:1 SWR.

Quod Erat Demonstrandum?

So did that little semi-scientific experiment prove the point? Well kinda sorta. It established a correlation between ground side current and radiator current. But would it QSO? No, definitely not; it’s just a dumb collection of wire and electronic components – I make the QSOs eh?

Next step – hook up a radio

This is the bit where I boldy went on to risk a radio in pursuance of scientific inquiry. First, the antenna was replaced with my “tactical” 9.5ft whip wearing its finest top hat. The whip was mounted on a small tripod out on the driveway. Even with a googol (10e100) of radials this antenna would not be resonant on the 20m band. That called for deployment of my QROp L-match tuner. The radio called into service for the experiment was my old Yaesu FT-897 set for a blistering 20 watts. Since the antenna is a compromised short vertical my QRP radios were granted liberty for the day. A little muscle was called for to ensure a decent signal could be launched up to the edge of space to pound the ionosphere.

The L-match was adjusted for resonance (X=0 @ 14.113MHz), a low SWR reading on the radio, then the GTU was adjusted to max out the ground current, which lowered the SWR reading on the radio even further. Everything was ready for launch but countdown was paused for one further refinement.

A large plate for pizza?

A GTU is usually used in combination with a capacitance plate laying on the ground. The GTU body is itself a very small capacitance plate, but maybe a larger plate would enhance the ground side current flow. A quick hunt around the Ham Radio Outside the Box HQ turned up a number of options. One of the options was an old pizza pan. It worked – i.e. it raised the ground current a little, but I really couldn’t see carrying a disgusting retired old pizza pan around as part of my portable ops kit. A little further searching resulted in a small piece of what looked like chicken wire. It looked much nicer and it worked even better than the pizza pan.

GTU atop its chicken wire capacitance plate. The large toggle switch bottom right is a bypass switch. The knob under the meter selects one of three inductors. The knob at top right adjusts the deflection of the meter needle. The large knob is for the tuning capacitor.

The final setup – will it QSO?

Final setup. This picture was taken before the chicken wire capacitance plate was in place. The antenna was fed by a 10ft RG-8 coax through a Common Mode Current choke (on a FT240-31 toroid)

Do I have to say it again? I make the QSOs not the dumb bits of wire. Well, could I make some contacts with this ZERO radial short vertical antenna system? Here is a picture of the setup.

Once again, a concrete driveway is not the best test of a GTU-based zero radial counterpoise system. The glacial layer of frozen, compressed snow on my lawn may not melt for another few weeks so one has to just make do with whatever nature allows.

I scanned the bands seeking somebody calling CQ and found a station in Connecticut doing a POTA activation. Grabbing my CWMorse paddle key I threw out my callsign and waited to hear if he heard me. Connecticut might be a little close to my QTH in southern Ontario for a vertical antenna with low angle radiation. Anyway, he heard me and sent me a 539 report. I responded with a 579. Contact was made.

A popular mantra among hams is “one is none and two is one” so I figured another contact would hammer a nail in it and seal the proof.

A little more search and pounce revealed another POTA activator in Virginia. Still quite close but my contact there earned my modest setup a 579 report.

Both those contacts were on 20m and I wondered whether another band would also work. I tuned up on 15m but the band was frantically busy with high speed CW traffic and I didn’t want to slow anybody down with my low power into an experimental antenna so I pulled the plug.

So there we have it. A very simple, rapid deployment field portable vertical antenna with zero radials. Now how am I going to make the ladies dance?

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

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#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

A highly efficient multiband QRP L-match builder project

Here is a project that provides a much more efficient way of matching an End-Fed Half Wave antenna than the usual 49:1 impedance transformer. High ratio transformers are prone to inductance leakage, core saturation and overheating leading to low efficiency. Although a 49:1 (or similar high ratio) transformer can present a low SWR to a transceiver, that is not a good indicator of the transformer’s efficiency. It only tells us our radio will not be damaged; it provides no useful information about how much of our signal will actually be radiated. Also, even though a low SWR can be obtained on multiple bands, the radiation pattern breaks up into multiple lobes and nulls on the higher harmonics. End-Fed Half-Wave antennas should really only be used on their fundamental frequency band and its second harmonic.

This L-match can also be used with other high impedance long wire antennas, for example, random wires. With the flick of a switch it can also be used to match low impedance antennas such as verticals.

Here is an interior view of the L-match. Note the “expedient” use of T37 toroids since I didn’t have any larger ones. To compensate I used 2 T37-6 toroids for the 0.5uH inductor; 2 T-37-2 toroids for each of the 1.0 – 4.0uH inductors and 4 T37-2 toroids for the 8uH inductor. I have tested the device using 4.5 watts into a dummy load and noted stable SWR with no noticeable core heating. I recommend the use of T50 or T68 toroid cores for anybody wanting to build their own version. The variable capacitor is a 160pF polyvaricon.

There are 10 kinds of people ... those who understand binary notation and those who don’t.

It’s an old joke but it’s quite true. In the binary system there are only two digits to remember: “1” and “0”. We can count from decimal 0 to 31 using only 5 binary digits.

Therefore, with only 5 inductors: 0.5uH, 1.0uH, 2.0uH, 4.0uH and 8.0uH we can select up to 32 values of inductance by binary operation of the switches (NB: “u” in this post represents the Greek letter “mu”, uH referring to microhenries). Inductance values can be selected in increments of only 0.5uH for fairly precise tuning.

L-match with binary selectable inductance. NB: Not shown is a switch connecting the variable capacitor to either the input (for low impedance antennas) or the output (for high impedance antennas). The switch can be omitted by simply reversing the input/output connections.

A few years ago I built a “Super Tee” QRP tuner that has 7 coils and 7 switches. Additional 0.25uH and 0.125uH inductances were available providing 128 different selectable inductances in increments of 1/8 of a microhenry. My experience has been that it is rarely necessary to use that level of precision in inductance values.

The table below shows how binary selection can vary the inductance between zero (all switches closed) and 31.5 uH in 32 increments of 0.5uH.

8uH coil4uH coil2uH coil1uH coil0.5uH coilTotal inductanceSwitch closedSwitch closedSwitch closedSwitch closed0.5uH0.5uHSwitch closedSwitch closedSwitch closed1uHSwitch closed1uHSwitch closedSwitch closedSwitch closed1uH0.5uH1.5uHSwitch closedSwitch closed2uHSwitch closedSwitch closed2uHSwitch closedSwitch closed2uHSwitch closed0.5uH2.5uHSwitch closedSwitch closed2uH1uHSwitch closed3uHSwitch closedSwitch closed2uH1uH0.5uH3.5uHSwitch closed4uHSwitch closedSwitch closedSwitch closed4uHSwitch closed4uHSwitch closedSwitch closed0.5uH4.5uHSwitch closed4uHSwitch closed1uHSwitch closed5uHSwitch closed4uHSwitch closed1uH0.5uH5.5uHSwitch closed4uH2uHSwitch closedSwitch closed6uHSwitch closed4uH2uHSwitch closed0.5uH6.5uHSwitch closed4uH2uH1uHSwitch closed7uHSwitch closed4uH2uH1uH0.5uH7.5uH8uHSwitch closedSwitch closedSwitch closedSwitch closed8uH8uHSwitch closedSwitch closedSwitch closed0.5uH8.5uH8uHSwitch closedSwitch closed1uHSwitch closed9uH8uhSwitch closedSwitch closed1uH0.5uH9.5uH8uhSwitch closed2uHSwitch closedSwitch closed10uH8uhSwitch closed2uHSwitch closed0.5uH10.5uH8uhSwitch closed2uH1uHSwitch closed11uH8uhSwitch closed2uH1uH0.5uH11.5uH8uh4uHSwitch closedSwitch closedSwitch closed12uH8uh4uHSwitch closedSwitch closed0.5uH12.5uH8uh4uHSwitch closed1uHSwitch closed13uH8uh4uHSwitch closed1uH0.5uH13.5uH8uh4uH2uHSwitch closedSwitch closed14uH8uh4uH2uHSwitch closed0.5uH14.5uH8uh4uH2uH1uHSwitch closed15uH8uH4uH2uH1uH0.5uH15.5uH

If we look at the table below we can see that it would be possible to use even fewer coils and switches if we wanted to operate on fewer bands. For example, if we wanted to operate only on the 20m, 30m and 40m bands we would need only three values of inductance. With five inductances and five switches we can operate on seven bands: 80m, 40m, 30m, 20m, 17m, 15m and 12m. It might be possible to also get a match on the 10m band. The maximum inductance in this project is 15.5uH, but there is additional stray inductance within the internal wiring.

Frequency (MHz)Inductance (microhenries)Capacitance (picofarads)3.715.11207.157.86210.1255.54414.153.93118.113.12521.22.62124.932.21828.52.016

Why choose binary selection?

Many designs for L-match devices use a single toroid core inductance with selectable taps as shown in the diagram below. I have built one myself, but as Shakespeare would have said: “Here’s the rub”. It is not easy to build a single inductor with 32 taps at 0.5uH increments. Even if that could be achieved where would we source a 32-way switch? We could use a lead with an alligator clip to select the taps but that would be inconvenient and potentially unreliable out in the field for portable operations.

My own version of this kind of L-match had only 12 taps with a 12-way rotary switch and worked fairly well but was not as versatile as binary selection.

L-match with tapped coil

I would like to add my gratitude to Martin K1FQL who provided the math equations and a lot of guidance to me in understanding how L-matches work. I have not included the equations in this post, but if anybody is interested I recommend reading Martin’s post at this link: Highly Efficient L-Matching Networks for End-Fed Half-Wave Antennas.

Coming up on Ham Radio Outside the Box

— Improving the efficiency of an antenna – by burying half of it underground? —

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

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#AmateurRadio #Antennas #LMatch #OutdoorOps

Escaping from the shack between snowstorms

HamClock – or Open Ham Clock?

It was recently announced that the popular HamClock program will cease to function in June 2026 due to the death of its creator. HamClock has been running on an Inovato mini computer in my shack for a long time now. It has given instant access to a wealth of information important to the operation of my home shack. A rescue attempt has been announced that will restore access to the databases HamClock relies on to display its information. I hope that attempt is successful and will follow that project closely.

Meanwhile, there is now a competitor called Open Ham Clock. For the last few days I have been displaying both HamClock and Open Ham Clock on my shack computers and I have to say that I currently find the open version more useful and much more informative than the original. Both programs provide a VOACAP display that provides an instant view of band conditions for a selected “DX” location. In this context “DX” refers to any station or location selected by clicking on the map display, but not necessarily a long distance location.

Have you tried either program; if so what is your opinion? Let me know in the comments.

Screenshot of Open Ham Clock at VA3KOT’s QTH (“DE” on map)

Life is tough and then it’s winter again

I am not a great fan of winter. I might think differently if I owned a snowmobile and could carry my portable radio gear for miles and miles along the extensive network of trails that cover the area where I live. Unfortunately I do not own such a vehicle and I’m a bit long in the tooth for snowshoeing through the woods wearing a backpack full of gear. Even if I did still have the stamina to get out into the back country in winter it would still be difficult to erect an antenna. Canada’s (literally) billions of evergreen trees have dense brush that catches the snow. Try to launch a wire up into the tree canopy and you can expect a small, cold avalanche to come tumbling down on top of your head. Guying a mast takes a lot of ingenuity because trying to drive stakes into the ground at this time of year requires something like a jack hammer – and that’s if you can even find the ground beneath a couple of feet of icy compressed snow.

But then, sometimes an idea occurs which is borderline genius but, at the same time, very simple. So when I wanted to take advantage of a recent day when the temperature managed to creep above freezing for the first time in weeks, this happened. I carried my Spiderbeam mast out onto my driveway looking for a way to secure it well enough to test an antenna idea. My driveway is regularly plowed and although I haven’t seen the concrete for months, the compressed layer of icy precipitation is sufficiently thin that my 4×4 truck can complete its passage between house and road without difficulty. But the rest of my suburban lot still carries the accumulated snowfall from weeks of winter weather. At the side of my driveway the snow is a couple of feet deep. Would it be firm enough to support my mast I wondered? I decided to find out. I pushed the mast down into the compressed snow and it felt firm enough. It penetrated 19 inches into the snow before meeting a firmer layer. A swift encouragement with my right foot inside a heavy snow boot sealed the hole at the top.

Base of Spiderbeam sticking out of the snow

This particular mast is Spiderbeam’s 7 meter (23 feet) model. Would the snow holding less than 2 feet of mast at the bottom be sufficient to support the full extended length? Yes. Not only that but when I used it to support a 40m EFHW wire the mast bowed with the strain of the long wire, yet did not show any sign of dislodging from its nature-supplied support. Success! Maybe winter ain’t so bad after all!

The antenna was a half wavelength long on 40m, with links for 30m and 20m. It allows me to set up the antenna for operation on its fundamental frequency for the 20m, 30m and 40m bands without relying on harmonics, although it does also work on the 2nd harmonic of 40m (i.e. 20m) when operated at its full length. Note that the CW QRP calling frequencies of 7.030 and 14.060 are very conveniently precisely related.

I have used this wire many times for POTA activations but on this occasion I wanted to test the ability of my version of AA5TB’s parallel tuned circuit to find a match on each of the three bands (it did, easily). I also used the occasion to test my newly completed QRP L-match (with binary selectable inductances) to see if that would also find a match on the same three bands. It did, again easily. I’ll be writing more about that project in an upcoming post.

What happened?

I skipped a light Fandango when I received this week’s report from WordPress. Although I don’t fixate on Ham Radio Outside the Box’s visitor numbers, subscriber count etc, something unusual must have happened. In the last 7 days this humble little blog received 5,350 page views which is more than double the regular weekly number. Compared to major websites that statistic may be underwhelming, but for a tiny one person amateur radio hobby blog from the Great White North it’s an achievement. A big thanks to all Ham Radio Outside the Box subscribers and visitors; it is folks like you who make writing this blog so worthwhile.

I don’t want to belabor the point but this is a non-commercial site. Any links in the posts here are not “affiliate links”. I do not solicit or accept financial donations from any source. Amateur radio is my hobby, not a business. Participating in the hobby often costs money – particularly for experimenters like myself. The costs associated with maintaining a domain registration and site hosting fees are just part of the investment in a hobby that carries its own reward through the enjoyment and thrill of communicating with others by radio. We should keep in mind the definition of “Amateur service” from the FCC Part 97 rules (para 97.3, section 4). Note in particular the phrase “without pecuniary interest”.

Amateur service. A radiocommunication service for the purpose of self-training, intercommunication and technical investigations carried out by amateurs, that is, duly authorized persons interested in radio technique solely with a personal aim and without pecuniary interest.

Feedback

If you choose to leave a comment on any post on this blog, WordPress will ask you to set up an account. This has two benefits; it helps to prevent bots and other undesirable sources from flooding the site with spam. It also allows you to be notified of follow-up comments (e.g. my reply) when posted.

Some spam does still get through but is caught in the spam filter. Unfortunately some genuine comments also occasionally get trapped in the spam filter. If your comment does not appear within 24 hours please let me know by email.

If you prefer to use email to send feedback please ensure to include your callsign or “SWL” if you are not a ham. Many subscribers have cryptic IDs such as “pickledwalnut037az2”. You will be sure to get a reply if I know I am dealing with a real person. Thanks.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

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#AmateurRadio #HamClock #OpenHamClock #OutdoorOps

Engineering challenges of the completed QRP EFHW coupler

Kudos to Kits and Parts, the United States Postal Service and the Canada Post dog sled teams who fearlessly fought their way through blizzards on the frozen barren tundra into the wild white yonder to safely deliver my package of toroid cores. But, as soon as I had unpacked the goodies I realized I may have fired off the order with excessive haste. I ordered some medium sized Type 2 and Type 6 powdered iron toroids for my occasional QROp (20 watts) projects and some smaller ones for QRP. How small? Too small! In my haste I had ordered 25 T37-2 and 25 T37-6 cores. These cores are so small that winding inductors on them requires a great deal and patience and dexterity – I have neither.

When life hands you lemons …

When life hands me self-inflicted lemons I tend to fill my head with expletives that are best not spoken in polite company. Then I find ways to cover up my mistakes. T37 cores are really only suitable in the stages of a transceiver prior to the final PA. Could they possibly be persuaded to handle the full 4.5 watts output of my revered antique Yaesu FT-817?

I reminded myself that this is Ham Radio Outside the Box and in that spirit I would find a way to use those lilliputian cores in my project. There were two screaming demons haunting my thoughts on this. A toroidal core can overheat due to being too small to handle the power applied to it. Or it can simply reach magnetic saturation causing it to fail to perform as expected.

I remembered an old trick used by hams who enjoy pumping out so much power they risk blowing holes in the ionosphere. They use multiple stacked toroid cores to share the load. Would that work with the tiny cores I had at my disposal? I decided to take the risk, but first test the idea on the bench before venturing out into the Big Blue Sky Shack.

But how to test the idea?

If a core can’t handle the power applied to it it will get hot. If the core reaches magnetic saturation it will no longer function as expected. I figured a simple way to test for these conditions on the bench would be a keydown test into a 2.5Kohm dummy load. I used two stacked T37-6 cores, held together with electrical tape and then by the wire wound through them. The setup was almost identical to the “20 minute” version published in the previous post, except that the inductor was now the toroidal core version.

The tuned circuit, dummy load and transceiver were hooked up on the bench and then, with very little trepidation (if I blew up the inductor I had more wire, more cores), I keyed up the full four and a half watts from the transceiver for 30 seconds while monitoring the SWR on my Norcal QRP power meter. Did it survive the test?

The Norcal QRP power meter indicated a rock steady SWR throughout the test. The cores may have increased in temperature but not enough to be detectable when touched with my fingers at the end of the keydown. Not a scientifically rigorous test but it inspired confidence in the viability of the solution. Stacking two cores increases the depth through which the wires pass through the core and that may compensate for the smaller diameter.

And now – that pesky polyvaricon

The 3D printing revolution hasn’t yet penetrated the basement laboratories of Ham Radio Outside the Box. Instead I am limited to good old-fashioned engineering techniques in my build projects. It is amazing what can be achieved with an extensive collection of materials and a few simple tools. That is exactly how I approached the challenge of attaching a regular quarter-inch knob to the stubby, irregular shaft of a polyvaricon.

The basic idea has already been covered on this blog but it has now been refined into a reproducible technique that is rugged and reliable enough to survive the rigors of being bumped over the steep and rocky terrain encountered along the north end of the Niagara Escarpment. The solution to the challenge is to construct a short quarter-inch diameter adapter shaft than can be securely attached to the polyvaricon. The basic material used is a steel drinking straw. Now that plastic straws have been declared a deadly hazard to the survival of the human race, steel straws are becoming quite easy to find.

Two tools were required; a Dremel for cutting a slot in one end of a section of the straw, and a small tube cutter for cutting the adapter shaft to the correct length. The adapter shaft is secured to the polyvaricon by means of a long, fine bolt and a small washer. Scavenging polyvaricons from dirt cheap thrift store AM/FM radios ensures the correct size of bolt is obtained. I did have to grind down the washer a little when the adapter shaft was fitted to ensure it slid into the knob nicely. Building the adapter shaft took about a half hour of delicate work while wearing a magnifying lens to enhance my degenerating vision. I imagine making something similar with a 3D printer would take as long.

I have another project developing on the workbench which involves the same inductor core tricks and polyvaricon mods as outlined here. It is a wideband L-match and if it works I’ll publish the details here in a couple of weeks. On the other hand, if it doesn’t work …

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #EFHW #OutdoorOps #Portable

A 20-minute QRP End-Fed Half-Wave antenna coupler

It was almost time to make lunch but I had an idea that just wouldn’t wait. I figured I had 20 minutes to zip down to the basement shack/development lab and throw a simple circuit together on the workbench. I had been re-reading (for the 1000th time) AA5TB’s website about using a parallel tuned circuit to transform the high impedance of an End-Fed Half-Wave antenna down to 50 ohms. I had built a QRO version already but now I need a QRP version.

Why use a parallel tuned circuit coupler?

The objective was to avoid the use of very high impedance ratio transformers (e.g. 49:1). These transformers have received heavy criticism in online forums for numerous reasons that I won’t go into here. An alternative that is often considered to be the best option is an L-network. According to Steve AA5TB, an L-network provides better bandwidth but less feedline isolation.

I do have a QRP tunable L-network coupler on the drawing board. It will use series toroidal inductors where each inductance can be shorted out using a toggle switch. A broad range of inductance values will be selectable in binary fashion by opening and closing the toggle switches. A polyvaricon will provide variable capacitance. It’s a bit of a complicated and slow arrangement compared to the tuned circuit coupler where the only adjustment needed is the variable capacitance. So back to AA5TB’s design.

In a rush (I was hungry) I dived into my component and junque drawers, found a polyvaricon with a range of about 16-160pF, then a 2.7Kohm resistor and a BNC jack. But I still needed a coil. I have wound many coils over the years and they fill the graveyard drawer in my shack closet. I picked up one that looked like it might do the job, even though it’s a scrappy, ugly beast. When I built it I used a small cutoff of the kind of plastic board that realtors use for their “For Sale” signs. I wound 19 turns of thin solid core telephone wire around it. The winding measured 4 microhenries on my Almost All Digital Electronics L/C meter IIB.

The coil still needed a secondary winding so I wound 3 turns of the same wire over the center of the primary and connected the ends to the BNC jack. The primary winding and the 2.7Kohm resistor (simulating the impedance of the EFHW) were connected in parallel with the polyvaricon. I didn’t really expect this rushed, kluge matching circuit to work but it was a first step. I could improve the coil later once I had the initial measurements.

You heard the expression “looks like a million dollars”? Well this looks like a single solitary buck – but it works!

I love it when a project just works!

I hooked the ugly bench project up to my RigExpert AA-55 Zoom antenna analyzer and performed a quick SWR measurement on 40m, 30m, 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m and 10m. On each band the SWR could be adjusted to 1.5:1 or less. The polyvaricon does not allow very fine adjustment so tuning is a little touchy. Feeling lucky I also checked 80m – well maybe that was over-optimistic, so no joy there.

Next, I checked for resonance on each band by looking at the R and X measurements on the analyzer. Sure enough I could get resonance (i.e. X=0) on 40m, 30m and 20m. I could not tune X down to zero on the higher bands but came pretty close.

N.B. I am not implying that a single end-fed wire can be used on all bands from 40-10m using this coupler. An EFHW antenna may be tunable on multiple bands but its radiation pattern becomes distorted on its 3rd and higher harmonics. Low SWR does not indicate the antenna is useful on other than its fundamental frequency and its 2nd harmonic.

Gone to the dogs

I have placed an order for quite a lot of toroid cores from Kits and Parts. When my order makes its way through the United States Postal Service and over the border, Canada Post will take charge of it and load it onto a dog sled. It will then be hauled through the frozen barren tundra, crossing multiple time zones and finally end up at my door. No doubt the “postie” will ring my bell and seek payment of further taxes before handing over the package. When that happy day arrives – assuming the dog sled isn’t ambushed by hungry polar bears en route – I will replace the coil with a much nicer one wound on a type-2 powdered iron toroid.

Times are hard, so I’m a scavenger

It would be nice if I could find another polyvaricon to wire in parallel with the main one. A lower capacitance device would allow me to make both coarse and fine tuning adjustments. I tear apart old AM/FM radios to scavenge the components so there may be just the part I need sitting in the junque drawer already.

And, of course, the project will get a nice enclosure to make it look nice and protect it against the bumps and grinds it will incur during my back country ham radio missions.

Finally, when the second consecutive Arctic weather season is finally over and I can get outside without wearing parka, mukluks and snowshoes, I will hook up various wires to what I hope will be the finished product. I have prepared a 40m half-wave wire already. It has links for 30m and 20m so it can be used on its fundamental frequency on each of those three bands. And, of course, a 0.05 wavelength counterpoise too.

How to look simply radiant

If the counterpoise is omitted the antenna may still “tune” but the coax becomes the counterpoise and will radiate. Since a lot of portable operators, like myself, like to directly connect the coupler to the radio (or via a very short coax) the operator becomes the counterpoise and will radiate. That thought is perhaps the ultimate endorsement for QRP!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #OutdoorOps #Portable

My FT-891 has been retired from POTA service … why?

Following high level, wide-ranging, bilateral talks with senior management (XYL) a far-reaching, binding agreement was today handed down to me. The focus of the agreement is contained in the executive summary which reads: “ya got enough radios already”.

And it’s true

I own more radios than I really use. Nearly all of my radios are of the vintage variety. The sole exception is my QRP Labs QMX. The QMX is unique in that it is an SDR radio so it can be updated as needed. One day, perhaps, even the hardware will become obsolete although it is more likely to succumb to the fragility of its low-cost construction – or the indelicate treatment to which it is subjected in the rigorous outdoor environment where I like to operate.

Radios become obsolete quite quickly as technologies evolve. Many modern rigs incorporate what I like to call a “fish finder” – a waterfall display enabling an operator to “catch” another station with a simple tap on a touchscreen. Fantastic yes, but is it just “nice to have” or an essential convenience for modern operating?

Most of my own outdoor operations are related to POTA. Once out in the Big Blue Sky Shack, preferably far from the madding crowd, in a location accessible only via Shanks’ Pony (an old Scottish expression – “shanks” are legs), I set up my station, find an open frequency, call CQ and work the hunters until they quit coming. What level of technological sophistication does that require? Even a very basic, unsophisticated, boat anchor rig can accomplish that. Does it really require a “fish finder”? Well, a fish finder would be nice, but spinning the dial and listening up for active stations worked for many years. Wanna go high tech? Check the clusters on a mobile phone.

Technological advances can even be detrimental. Remember old tube rigs? They were robust (until the tubes needed replacing). Tube rig operators never had to obsess about SWR. High SWR in a modern radio can result in voltage peaks that can send delicate FET PA transistors to the semiconductor cemetery. Sure tubes (or “thermionic valves” as they are known in the Land of Hope and Glory) can be big and fragile. I remember, when I was a kid exploring the thrill of electromagnetrickery, I owned a receiver with tiny, wire-ended tubes. But this isn’t a post about boat anchor technology – no matter how our romanticized recollections of youth bring out fond memories of days gone by.

Back to the future

I bought my Yaesu FT-891 a few short years ago based on recommendations I read online. I wanted a radio that would pack a punch and make getting QSOs from a campsite almost a sure thing. I remember self-spotting on the POTA website with the comment “100 watts!”. I wanted to attract hunters who wouldn’t have to struggle to hear me. A hundred watts for a CW signal is equivalent to AM broadcast signal strength compared to SSB. Alright, I exaggerate, but it quickly occurred to me that a QRP CW signal into an efficient antenna would get the job done equally well. Since that time I have rarely strayed from QRP – or sometimes QROp (20 watts for a 1 S-unit signal boost) when conditions are bad.

The new shack star – Yaesu FT-891

The Yaesu FT-891 is an interesting radio. It’s compact format makes it easy to carry into the field, but also has a downside. Small radios bury most of their impressive set of features in layers of menus. And the FT-891 has an impressive set of features. Audio bandwidth can be set as wide as the mighty Mississippi or as tight as Scrooge’s purse strings. Zero beating the other station’s frequency can be accomplished in a single button press if the “ZIN” function is programmed to one of the A, B, C buttons on the front panel. Then pressing the <F> key repeatedly brings up another four layers of menus. These menus allow the operator to select and adjust other levels of IF filtering like “APF – Audio Peak Filter”, “CNT – Contour”, “SFT – IF shift”, “IPO – Intercept Point Optimization” and “NCH – Notch”.

Filters can get you into trouble

During one POTA activation I recall hearing a hunter respond to me, but his signal sounded like a series of atmospheric clicks. “What the heck is that?” I remember thinking. “Is he testing whether I can copy railroad code?” (I can’t). I set my RIT (Receiver Incremental Tuning) a little off frequency and suddenly his signal was perfectly clear. The problem was my filter was set too narrow. Responding to an activator a little away from zero beat is a technique often used to stand out in a pile-up; it works in SSB too. Since my filter was too narrow the hunter’s signal was just outside my passband. Some CW operators are able to use the filter between their ears to separate a signal in a busy band. It takes some concentration – more than I have.

Tis a gift to be simple

All those menus are such fun to play with while working a pile-up out in the back country with mosquitoes, deer flies and other winged pestilences trying to have lunch on the back of your neck. As you swing an arm wildly to crush the airborne assault your CW key crashes to the forest floor and the contacts fill with wet sand and soil turning dits and dahs into incomprehensible gibberish. The hunters have fled and you are back to sending CQ trying to entice them to return. Wouldn’t it be nice to have a simple radio instead?

It get’s worse

It’s fine and dandy reducing a QRO rig’s power to peanut level. On the FT-891 it’s a simple matter of holding the <F> key down for 2 seconds, rotating the Multifunction knob to select section 16 of the Mariana Trench level menus, then choosing which of the six HF power sub-menus to adjust. Then click the Multifunction knob again, rotate it to the desired power output, from 5 watts to 100 watts; click the <F> key again and in no time at all you’re all set.

But there’s still a problem. The FT-891, like many other QRO radios adjusted for low power, still sucks power out of your battery like a camel filling its hump before a trek across the desert. The FT-891 draws over 5 amps even when the output power is wound down to 5 watts. By contrast, the QMX and other QRP radios can run when powered by a tiny 9 volt alkaline battery.

Big eyes, small wallet

Twenty years ago I worked for a few months in a Toronto establishment known to local hams as “the candy store”. Every day I had every one of the big Japanese manufacturers radios to play with. The staff were encouraged to become familiar with all the radios on display so that we could offer expert advice to customers. My big wide eyes fell on one particular radio from Yaesu; it was the FT-897 – a radio that I began to covet but couldn’t afford to buy at that time. I left that employment to start my own business and after a while I had the funds to buy that rig.

FT-897 Old faithful, now assigned to occasional portable use

The Yaesu FT-897 is a big and chunky, yet rugged looking QRO radio that was intended for use in the field. I used it as a base station radio instead and it served that purpose until quite recently. It is old-tech now but maybe that’s a bit of an advantage. You see, it is relatively simple compared to the later FT-891. The FT-897 was introduced before IF filtering was widely available to the low budget ham market. Instead it has audio frequency filtering – accessible from the front panel – that works remarkably well. I can narrow the CW receive bandwidth down to 60Hz (danger of missing calls), 120Hz or 240Hz very easily without diving deep into a menu system.

The FT-897 does not integrate very well with common programs like FLrig and FLdigi. Too few functions can be controlled with CAT commands – unlike the newer FT-891. So the momentous decision was made to switch the two radios. Who cares if it takes a lot of clicks, twiddles and turns to select a desired feature on the FT-891 if the clicks, twiddles and turns are replaced with on-screen slider controls? The FT-891 is now my shack radio and I am very happy with it in this role. My XYL is equally happy that we don’t have to have another full and frank discussion about my urge to deplete our retirement savings to buy yet another whizz-bang box of tricks that will only keep me happy until the next whizz-bang box appears.

And the old FT-897? Is that going to be my regular portable rig now? Sorry old fella, you’re still a little hungry on battery amps. Maybe field day, perhaps.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#amateurRadio #CW #FT891 #FT897 #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

The ultimate rebuild of an ancient Yaesu FT-817.

I think it was a couple of years ago now I ordered a QRP Labs QMX transceiver. It quickly, but temporarily, became my favorite radio for portable field operations. I have written before about why I believe the QMX is a mighty fine piece of miniaturized technology but is less suitable for the rigors of being operated in the kind of field operating environment to which I expose my radios. My QMX is the low-band version and I also miss the opportunity to explore the higher bands when propagation conditions permit.

What’s a poor Ham to do?

I could buy another QMX, but order the high band version this time. It would be a very modest investment, but would still require ruggedizing. Another downside is the long, long wait time betwixt ordering and receiving the tiny parcel from Turkey. I could also order a QMX+ which is a fine all HF band radio, but then what to do with the QMX low band? There is another solution.

The Paranoid Android

I recall a quote from the book “The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy” by Douglas Adams in which the perenially depressed robot “Marvin the Paranoid Android” moans: “The first ten million years were the worst.” When I look at the front panel of my ancient Yaesu FT-817 non-ND version it kinda has a Marvin look about it. It has spent almost a quarter of a century waiting patiently in a drawer for the day when it might be called into action again. Many radios have come and gone during that time but – even though I had planned to sell it on many occasions – I still own it and it’s day to see the sunshine again has finally come.

Where are the features?

The non-ND version of the FT-817 is a barebones rig. I needed a CW memory keyer – it doesn’t have one. Activating a POTA park sometimes requires great patience and many, many CQs. My QMX at least has that covered. I also needed an audio filter. It used to be possible to buy a Collins mechanical filter but they are no longer made. My QMX also has that feature covered, but the FT-817 requires an external audio filter.

Failure is not an option

The FT-817 does have a higher level of ruggedness than the QMX. With a few extra precautionary measures it can be protected from the ingress of sand particles during a beach activation, or unexpected spray from waves on the shores of the Great Lakes. The QMX will not tolerate wide variations in DC supply voltage; the FT-817 has that covered. The QMX uses inexpensive but fragile PA transistors (mine have not succumbed to failure – yet). Well, the FT-817 also had fragile PA transistors in its early days and mine did indeed fail during a field deployment. The FT-817’s PA board is a small module that is easily replaced with the new upgraded module – as was mine.

Assembled rebuilt FT-817 portable operations rig. The battered, field protective canvas pouch on the right contains a Talentcell LiFePO4 battery. Right hand side view of the “helper modules” showing the input jack for connecting a cable from the headphone output of the FT-817. The switch allows the K4ICY AF filter to be bypassed for a barn door wide audio bandwidth. Left hand side view of the “helper modules” showing the switch allowing selection of 2-stage or 4-stage audio frequency filtering. To the right of the switch is the AF output jack for connecting headphones. The jack on the K3NG keyer connects to the “Key” jack on the FT-817. On the back of the AF filter module is the power switch controlling the internal
9-volt battery (now replaced by a buck converter) which supplies both modules. Internal view of the keyer module and the filter module. The 9 volt battery has now been replaced with a buck converter that converts the radio’s DC supply from 12.6 volts down to 9 volts to power the helper modules.

I get by with a little help from my friends

The feature shortcomings of the FT-817 have been overcome with two “helper modules” assembled inside aluminum Hammond project enclosures. The front enclosure contains a K3NG Arduino nano based CW keyer and a very simple no-thrills set of 3D printed paddles. Well who really needs to spend $300 on a fancy set of paddles for a brief POTA exchange? These paddles get the job done FB. The same cannot be said about the fist that operates them!

The front panel controls are very simple. The paddles protrude through a cutout in the Hammond enclosure.

Beside the paddles is a knob. This knob is used to operate a rotary encoder inside. Clicking the knob operates the switch built into the rotary encoder and triggers the sending of a “CQ CQ POTA de VA3KOT VA3KOT k” stored message in the Arduino keyer.

Rotating the knob adjusts the speed of the CW over a wide range. I have found this to be a very useful feature. I usually send at 20wpm and receive responses that are slower and faster than my sending speed. With this prominent control front-and-center I can quickly adjust my sending speed to suit.

I built the K4ICY audio frequency filter module around a quad op-amp DIL chip. This is a very simple circuit that provides 2 or 4 stages of filtering to narrow the bandwidth of a received signal. Each stage contains identical components whose values are selected according the operator’s desired sidetone frequency. The whole module can be bypassed if required allowing an audio bandwidth wide enough to pass a crosstown bus sideways.

Both modules are rigidly secured to each other using two aluminum rails made from scrap material. I hoard scraps of metal, plastic and other materials – you just never know when you’re gonna need ’em.

The dimensions of the two modules provide an ample flat surface on which to mount the ancient, but revered, transceiver. I purchased some “peel & stick” Gorilla brand “Slipstick” gripper pads and applied four of them to the base of the FT-817. This is a genuinely useful product I recommend to any hambrewer. The radio has been secured to the top of the helper modules with two woodland zip ties made from thin cordage. These simple cord fasteners work just as well as plastic zip ties and can be easily undone for servicing the modules.

I purchased a box load of these Hammond enclosures at an auction many years ago. They have proved very useful. In another build, using the same enclosures configured in an identical manner, I was able to construct two battery modules each containing four 18650 Lithium Ion batteries in 4S1P configuration for powering another one of my ancient QRP transceivers.

This is not the first time I have revived my FT-817, but previous rebuilds were clumsy. It is one thing to put together multiple modules on the shack bench. Clumsy, cluttered, loose modules might work in a picnic-tables-on-the-air type activation. But would it work in a situation where there are no convenient surfaces to mount the equipment; where – at any moment – we might be politely asked to vacate the area by a hungry bear looking for a space to eat his lunch? This new build is a grab-and-go package that works in small, tight spaces – even on top of a rock in the backcountry – and that’s the kind of environment where I like to operate.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #FT817 #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

This is still a hobby, isn’t it?

I used the mesh as below !!  I would like to propose you test and show in your fine public forum the use of copper mesh used to plug vermin holes for a counterpoise. , A link is attached . I’ve used this in the past 2 months with absolute success.  If the feed point is elevated I may run a wire with a alligator clip to the ground and attached the mesh. In my testing a 8.5 ft length of mesh (comes in rolls) is better by a .2 SWR compared to 5 17 ft radials doubled back on itself in the same approximate width as the 5″ mesh. The nice of the mesh is that it can roll out nice on the snow or ground  with a few rocks holding it in place. I claim it gives increased ” solidity” to the ground effects if there is such a thing.  Its a poor man’s Cameleon (sp) fabric counterpoise they sell for 100 + so USD. I find it hard to believe this is pure copper , I have not soldered it as a test. I’d suggest at least taping the cut ends with duct tape to stop the unravelling of the mesh . The other bad so to speak is that after a time the copper may wear and deposit itself as tiny ting shards  of wires , not too bad for the outside though not in the house  for the Doggies which I have.. This stuff may work  well for small inside verticals that need a easy counterpoise. Again the ease of rolling this out is great AND IT DRIES FAST IF WET  especially compared to the Cameleon  (sp) .   Respectively submitted, if you decide to use and test this on your site I will accept use of my call and name (AA1AR, Bruce) as the initial proposer of this mesh as once the INFLUENCERS grab this it will be their claim to fame and this needs to be stopped.  Some of them are fine like Waters though some have been compromised by “must use for POTA super yellow Poloni & XXXXX flexible cable”  which I think is rather sad.. They just push hardware . I wonder how much money they make from all this . This mesh could also be ELEVATED and used as part of a pota performer by hanging it with a string thru its mesh. An interesting test !!!  I really do need to suscribe (sp) to your channel.  Sorry for the mispelling its 5 am       Bruce S. AA1AR   https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Mesh-Prefect-Blocking-Eco-Friendly/dp/B08PSLHWZT/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1YF5QRR4AOAQR&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YJEVFO30iuWfii-aS0LyZqhl2p3_NwqoH8sQCRMneSIClgbl8syNMcHSRx8otcrCk47fE7PJTPN0to4efyxLlpi8H4o7WkbI63QkXXnVYqNycW9YEpXiWU9JdypAK4UdOxO9vlNg0J60tJIrFDQuSE0KdXt3Ya08wB1tPy7PHPrTfqgwrKnvMJ7B8UHCQCQNTDEyRSR6g3OtBsnicIMe5DssvlAFr7k1EvLEEQMkO5c.vsa4EQ0FlfyhmO85psjNiTfPcPSBjTzzGATB4eRPoOs&dib_tag=se&keywords=copper%2Bmesh%2Brodent%2Bcontrol&qid=1765793755&sprefix=copper%2Bmesh%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-4&th=1

Ham Radio continues to change. Whether you believe the changes are good or bad depends on a lot on your perspective. But, no matter if you are a traditional brass pounder, or you believe the Internet is the future of ham radio, one question stands out as we enter another year. Is ham radio still just a hobby? Yes, there is always the public service aspect. Many of us still enjoy getting out to support our local charity run or bicycle race, but isn’t that still part of the hobby? The change that has surprised me the most brings the lure of money into the picture. Has the line between a pure hobby and a small business become blurred?

What indeed is a hobby? I found this definition online:

“A hobby is a regular activity that a person engages in for enjoyment and relaxation during their leisure time, rather than for financial gain or professional purposes.”

This isn’t meant to criticize those who seek financial reward from writing or posting videos about amateur radio. We each have our own circumstances and maintaining an online presence does cost money. Services such as Patreon have tempted many online content creators to invite followers to make a voluntary regular financial donation to “support the channel”. Has this turned our hobby into a micro business? One online source defines “business” as:

The activity of buying and selling commodities, products, or services.

If a website or video channel provides affiliate links to products, is that a business service? And are commissions earned and Patreon donations received taxable as business income? I don’t know. If there is a non-profit motive and a genuine need for assistance then a request to help cover the running costs would bI used the mesh as below !!  I would like to propose you test and show in your fine public forum the use of copper mesh used to plug vermin holes for a counterpoise. , A link is attached . I’ve used this in the past 2 months with absolute success.  If the feed point is elevated I may run a wire with a alligator clip to the ground and attached the mesh. In my testing a 8.5 ft length of mesh (comes in rolls) is better by a .2 SWR compared to 5 17 ft radials doubled back on itself in the same approximate width as the 5″ mesh. The nice of the mesh is that it can roll out nice on the snow or ground  with a few rocks holding it in place. I claim it gives increased ” solidity” to the ground effects if there is such a thing.  Its a poor man’s Cameleon (sp) fabric counterpoise they sell for 100 + so USD. I find it hard to believe this is pure copper , I have not soldered it as a test. I’d suggest at least taping the cut ends with duct tape to stop the unravelling of the mesh . The other bad so to speak is that after a time the copper may wear and deposit itself as tiny ting shards  of wires , not too bad for the outside though not in the house  for the Doggies which I have.. This stuff may work  well for small inside verticals that need a easy counterpoise. Again the ease of rolling this out is great AND IT DRIES FAST IF WET  especially compared to the Cameleon  (sp) .   Respectively submitted, if you decide to use and test this on your site I will accept use of my call and name (AA1AR, Bruce) as the initial proposer of this mesh as once the INFLUENCERS grab this it will be their claim to fame and this needs to be stopped.  Some of them are fine like Waters though some have been compromised by “must use for POTA super yellow Poloni & XXXXX flexible cable”  which I think is rather sad.. They just push hardware . I wonder how much money they make from all this . This mesh could also be ELEVATED and used as part of a pota performer by hanging it with a string thru its mesh. An interesting test !!!  I really do need to suscribe (sp) to your channel.  Sorry for the mispelling its 5 am       Bruce S. AA1AR   https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Mesh-Prefect-Blocking-Eco-Friendly/dp/B08PSLHWZT/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1YF5QRR4AOAQR&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YJEVFO30iuWfii-aS0LyZqhl2p3_NwqoH8sQCRMneSIClgbl8syNMcHSRx8otcrCk47fE7PJTPN0to4efyxLlpi8H4o7WkbI63QkXXnVYqNycW9YEpXiWU9JdypAK4UdOxO9vlNg0J60tJIrFDQuSE0KdXt3Ya08wB1tPy7PHPrTfqgwrKnvMJ7B8UHCQCQNTDEyRSR6g3OtBsnicIMe5DssvlAFr7k1EvLEEQMkO5c.vsa4EQ0FlfyhmO85psjNiTfPcPSBjTzzGATB4eRPoOs&dib_tag=se&keywords=copper%2Bmesh%2Brodent%2Bcontrol&qid=1765793755&sprefix=copper%2Bmesh%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-4&th=1e a sincere and appropriate alternative.

If I had a million dollars, I’d be rich

When I read a blog or forum post that is full of links to affiliate services such as Amazon where we can purchase promoted products “at no additional cost” I wonder whether the product is being promoted because it truly is the best available product at the best price, or for some other reason. Last fall I stayed at a very nice hotel and posted a very positive review of my stay online. Shortly afterwards I received an email from the hotel offering me $20 if I posted a positive review on another specific online service. I was shocked and replied that I declined their offer and did not approve of businesses buying favorable reviews. I now tend to distrust online reviews of anything, including ham radio equipment.

Am I just a grumpy old curmudgeon?

Perhaps this is “progress”; the concept of a pure hobby activity may be fading into history. Perhaps I am simply too old-fashioned to keep up. I have owned and operated businesses – real bricks and mortar businesses – so I am not opposed to the concept of entrepreneurship. I am retired now and enjoy ham radio as an activity that I engage in purely for enjoyment and relaxation during my leisure time. Other people’s situations and motivations may differ from mine but, here on Ham Radio Outside the Box, I cover the costs out of my own pocket and am happy to carry on doing so.

And while I’m up on my soapbox …

Early in my ham radio activities I discovered that I enjoyed operating outdoors (out in the “Big Blue Sky Shack”) far more than sitting at home in my basement shack. But there was a problem. Quite often I would be sitting in a field calling CQ into a black empty void and getting no responses. Then along came a brilliant new activity that changed everything. Now I got contacts every time I stepped outdoors and fired up my rig – sometimes lots of contacts. That new activity was Parks on the Air, a.k.a. POTA.

This QTH is on the edge of a cliff on the Bruce Trail overlooking Georgian Bay reached after a short 1km hike through the county’s black bear hot spot. Great QRP DX from up here.

POTA fundamentally changed ham radio and has quickly become one of the most popular activities in ham radio. The rules are very simple and, quite frankly, open to interpretation. Adherence to the rules is left to the honor and honesty of participants. In June 2024 I wrote a post entitled: “How to really up your POTA game (and why you shouldn’t)“. I wrote: “There is a very simple way to get your activation complete in very short order – even during a complete HF blackout. And for a bonus you can get lots of Park to Park (P2P) credits along the way. And best of all you can do it all without violating any Parks on the Air rules. Oh, just one more thing, PLEASE DON’T EVER DO THIS!.”

I was, and remain, uncomfortable with the practice of two hams making an HT to HT VHF simplex contact with each other to complete an activation. It just doesn’t seem to be in the spirit of good operating practice to my way of thinking. Is leaving the park after a “busted activation” really so bad?

Taking it easy. A nice relaxed activation beside a beautiful lake. No rush, just enjoy the sunshine and the scenery and let the contacts roll in.

My personal preference is to hike into the backcountry, find a secluded spot away from the public eye and set up my radio. But it seems that approach is rare among POTA operators. Many prefer what Ed Durrant DD5LP has dubbed “PLOTA” (Parking Lots on the Air). I have also heard it called “Drive-Thru activations”. Sometimes the parking area is actually outside the park boundary, but what the heck eh? I read one POTA activation account in which the activator was within 100 feet of the park entrance and claimed a valid activation. For the record, the activator and all their equipment must be entirely inside the park boundary. The only exception to this rule is for trails where the 100ft exemption applies.

If too many hams activate a park from the parking lot, or adjacent picnic tables, or set up poles and antennas in public areas, other park users may start to complain. Could it happen? You bet it could; witness what happened in the State of Virginia recently as reported by, among others, fellow blogger Stuart VE9CF on his blog “Out n Aboot”. People who visit parks for quiet enjoyment may not appreciate hams hollerin’ into microphones trying to complete a contact when the bands are bad. Perhaps consider operating CW or digital modes and wearing headphones. People may construe your unobtrusive, totally silent radio activity as some kind of scientific study and pass on by.

It really is fun to operate outside in a park. We can soak up the sunshine, enjoy the trails and the wildlife and play radio too. Del N2NWK who is an avid POTA activator disagrees and wrote in a comment here on Ham Radio Outside the Box:

“There is no such thing as in the spirit of POTA. POTA is not about going to the park to enjoy nature. POTA is about operating your radio in the park to make at least 10 contacts in order to have a valid activation.

POTA rules states that you and all your equipment must be within the boundaries of the park. There is nothing in the POTA rules that say you must hike, or go a certain distance in the park to activate. Just operate you radio in the park and have fun. POTA allows you to choose however you feel to activate your park.

Too many people trying to make rules for POTA that does not exist. Park to Park is operators making contacts with each other from a park, it does not matter if it is the same park or not.”

So Del and many other hams like him I suspect, participate in POTA simply to rack up as many contacts as possible, as quickly and efficiently as possible. Nothing wrong with that I guess, I just see things differently.

I used to be drawn to the competitive aspects of POTA. I checked the POTA website regularly to make sure I was still listed as the “Park Leader” at my local parks. If not, I would schedule another activation to restore my status. After a while the allure of yet another activation waned. Now I am content to go to a park, or a trail, or wilderness area to test a new antenna design by making some contacts. Maybe I am slowing down with age who knows. I am glad POTA is still around and I really hope the Virginia experience doesn’t lead to further restrictions on ham radio activities in public spaces.

As always, if you disagree, or have another perspective to consider, please leave a comment below.

Coming up on Ham Radio Outside the Box

Adam K2CAT wrote to me about a new iOS/Mac app he has written to help hams. I am not an iOS/Mac user myself so I cannot comment on how good it is, but next week Ham Radio Outside the Box will post Adam’s description so you can try it out for yourself.

Also in next week’s post, another great idea from a reader. Bruce AA1AR has come up with an original and very clever idea for constructing radials. Read all about it next week.

Coming up later this month; it is another bitter winter here in southern Ontario; cold temperatures, biting winds and lots of snow. I set up my ancient Yaesu FT-817 in the back seat of my RAM 1500 truck for shelter and found I was juggling paddles, battery and assorted other bits and pieces that were falling from my frozen hands and finding cunning hiding places under the seat, or in awkward crevices that were hard to reach. After a rethink and a bit of metalwork in my garage workshop I found a better way to get my portable winter gear organized. Details in an upcoming post.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #CW #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

A Year End Compendium of Outside the Box Antenna Ideas

We have reached the end of another year of crazy ideas here at Ham Radio Outside the Box and a repeat of last year’s severe winter has gotten underway in southern Ontario. The daily temperature high remains well below freezing and the ground is buried under a thick blanket of snow already. I have tried to “Keep Warm and Carry On” with more off-the-wall outdoor antenna experiments but succumbed to the biting wind and had to retreat to the warmth of the shack.

Here in the nice toasty warmth of my basement “Comms Room” I am surrounded by radio equipment, electronic gizmos, tools and almost enough wire to lay a new transatlantic cable. I also have computers. One of the computers runs the incredible HamClock program giving me instant access to updated solar propagation conditions, the current location of the International Space Station and real time data on the International HF beacon project.

Another computer is the one on which I am typing this post now. I recently realized that I have written so many posts related to field portable antennas I have built and tried that it would be a useful exercise to re-read them all. Heck, I surprised myself with some of the ideas that were posted and forgotten, but will now be resurrected. So, to end the year, I have composed a compendium of 35 of those posts – old and not-so-old – as a reference for readers to explore. I hope you may find some useful information for your own deployments.

I should stress that these are not all tried and tested designs. Some have worked so well I intend to keep them in my hambag for field portable radio operations. Others … well they were useful learning opportunities. Even if you only pick up a couple of tips such as the simplest, quick release method of attaching an antenna wire to the top of a pole the read will be worth your time.

NB: If you find any of these posts particularly interesting you can use the “Print” function on your computer and select “Save to PDF” or “Print to file” to keep a local copy.

ZZZZZ … ZZZZ … ZZZ

Ham Radio Outside the Box will now go into hibernation until the new year. Until then my best wishes go out to all in the hope that you will enjoy whatever religious or secular festival you celebrate at this time of year. Stay out of the cold!

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/11/04/a-simple-fix-for-my-broken-telescopic-whip/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/08/29/two-resonant-simple-wire-antennas-for-pota/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/09/23/a-simple-low-profile-multiband-antenna-for-pota/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/08/05/rapid-deployment-field-expedient-random-wire-antenna-ideas/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/07/23/does-an-antenna-top-hat-really-work/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/07/11/an-outside-the-box-version-of-the-delta-loop-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/05/21/reviving-a-webster-band-spanner-a-1950s-manual-screwdriver-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2022/08/15/vertical-antenna-redesigned/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2022/07/30/no-antenna-no-problem/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2022/06/21/80m-band-antenna-fits-into-just-1-square-foot/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2021/12/17/an-easy-t2lt-portable-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2021/11/08/a-portable-vertical-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2021/09/13/a-most-unusual-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/05/14/matching-an-efhw-antenna-a-third-way/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/04/23/ssefhw-another-shortened-end-fed-half-wave-antenna-for-20m/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/03/19/a-simple-antenna-that-is-omnidirectional-directional-and-nvis/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/03/05/a-quick-and-easy-qrp-emergency-field-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/01/16/a-top-loaded-end-fed-half-wave-antenna-for-20m/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2024/12/12/a-clefhw-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2024/11/13/antenna-height-matters-true-or-false/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2024/10/09/the-titanic-40m-field-expedient-backpack-portable-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2024/08/16/how-does-the-speaker-wire-no-counterpoise-antenna-work/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2024/07/18/a-neat-trick-with-a-20m-efhw-wire-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2024/03/13/an-improved-self-supporting-low-footprint-field-expedient-antenna-for-20m/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2024/03/06/antennas-a-riddle-wrapped-in-a-mystery-inside-an-enigma/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2024/02/14/a-most-unusual-vertical-antenna-for-20m/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2023/12/06/a-simpler-field-expedient-rybakov-antenna-for-winter/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2023/11/05/an-upside-down-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2023/10/19/using-a-municipal-flagpole-for-an-antenna-fine-business/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2023/02/15/the-vp2e-a-strange-but-proven-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2023/02/09/what-in-heavens-name-is-a-rybakov-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2023/01/14/a-magic-ground-mobile-antenna/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/01/23/an-off-center-fed-sleeve-dipole/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2024/07/12/cutting-my-losses/

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2023/10/24/an-itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny-upside-down-hf-whip/

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#amateurRadio2 #antennas #counterpoise #cw #outdoorOps #portable #pota

HamClock EOL

What really determines the efficiency of an antenna?

Is it Standing Wave Ratio (SWR)?

It is common knowledge that when an antenna has high SWR some of our transmitted power is wasted instead of being transmitted. But is this really true? The trouble with “common knowledge” is that it spreads without further scrutiny. “It must be true because that’s what everybody thinks”. But let’s consider another perspective.

What happens to our signal when it meets an antenna with high SWR? Some of the signal is radiated while the rest is reflected back down the transmission line to its source – the transceiver. What happens to the reflected signal when it reaches the transceiver? It is re-reflected back towards the antenna and the cycle repeats.

So does all the signal eventually get radiated? No. Energy is lost (RED ALERT from the physics department: Energy can neither be created nor destroyed, only converted from one form to another). Ok, my apologies to the physics department, some of the energy is converted to heat as our signal passes along the transmission line and through any ununs, baluns, impedance transformers or other devices en route. Further energy is converted to heat due to the resistance of the wires and the impedance of the transmission line itself.

Thus, on every trip between the transceiver and the antenna, some of our transmitted RF is converted to heat. If the antenna has a high SWR some of our signal travels back and forth between the transceiver and the antenna multiple times and becomes further attenuated on each trip. Therefore, if we can reduce the loss of RF (due to conversion to heat) as it passes through any devices along the journey between the source (transceiver) and load (antenna) we will improve the efficiency of our antenna system.

How can we do that?

One simple way to achieve that is to correct for the high SWR right at the antenna. A remote tuner can do that. A loading coil will compensate for the high capacitive reactance of a short antenna, but loading coils can be inefficient because of wire resistance. This is especially true in the case of base-loading coils on a quarter-wave vertical antenna. The current is highest at the base of the antenna so more RF energy will be lost to heat (P=I^2*R) than with a center-loading or top-loading coil.

So the real culprit is not SWR, but the insertion loss of ununs, baluns, impedance transformers, loading coils, transmatches and any other “energy conversion” devices, including the transmission line itself, through which our signal has to pass.

Insertion loss of Ham Radio Outside the Box’s 4:1 ununs

In the previous post I reported on my build of field test versions of a 4:1 unun and a 4:1 balun to compare how each would handle the task assigned to them. Now the job I set myself was to transform what might be called the “Ugly Sisters” builds into something with the good looks of Cinderella. And Cinderella had to be an unun tough enough to withstand rough treatment out in the Big Blue Sky Shack through all four Canadian seasons (Late Winter, Brief Summer, Early Winter, Deep Winter).

QRP 4:1 unun

I built two versions of a 4:1 unun; one for QRP and another for what I like to call QROp. “QROp” is an unofficial label I have adopted to mean about 20 watts or so. Twenty watts will give a 1 S-unit advantage over 5 watts – maybe just enough for our signal to poke its nose above the noise floor when propagation conditions are not so good.

QROp unun

There are 2 main differences between the QRP and the QROp versions: The QRP unun uses a BNC connector and a 4:1 transformer wound on a tiny FT82-43 toroid. The QROp version uses an SO-239 connector and a 4:1 transformer wound on an FT140-43 toroid.

If we look at the tables below, we can see that the QRP version may have a little too much insertion loss. When we are trying to do as much as we can with as little as possible every milliwatt is wanted. As the wonderful friendly folks on the big Canadian island of Newfoundland like to say: “A little’s a lot if it’s all you’ve got”.

Insertion Loss effects of the Ham Radio Outside the Box QRP unun

BandQRP (5 watts) UNUN Insertion Loss (dB)RF Power Lost (watts)% RF Power Lost10m0.390.438.612m0.370.418.215m0.350.397.817m0.340.387.614m0.330.377.430m0.320.367.240m0.350.397.880m0.730.7715.4

Insertion Loss effects of the Ham Radio Outside the Box QROp unun

BandQROp (20 watts) UNUN Insertion Loss (dB)RF Power Lost (watts)% RF Power Lost10m0.241.085.4012m0.231.035.1515m0.220.994.9517m0.210.944.7014m0.200.904.5030m0.200.904.5040m0.200.904.5080m0.220.994.95

A little extra heat in winter

You would think Canadians wouldn’t mind a little extra heat in winter. It’s true, but not when the source of that heat is our precious transmitted RF. In case you were wondering, the amount of RF converted to heat by inefficient devices is mostly undetectable. If it can be easily detected the “magic smoke” can’t be far behind. When it’s 253 Kelvins outside you just ain’t gonna notice when the temperature rises to 254 Kelvins (note: the physics department advised me to use Kelvins to avoid confusion between degrees Fahrenheit and degrees Celsius).

Oh no! There’s more?

Yes indeed. An unun does not attenuate Common Mode Current (CMC). For that we need a Common Mode Current Choke (CMCC). CMC is the current on the outer surface of a coax braid. Differential mode current is carried on the core and inner surface of the coax braid. Does a CMCC also have insertion loss? Yes, but how much? Let’s take a look.

Insertion Loss of a QRP (5 watts) Common Mode Current Choke (CMCC)

BandQRP (5 watts) CMCC Insertion Loss (dB)RF Power Lost (watts)% RF Power Lost10m0.250.285.612m0.220.255.015m0.210.244.817m0.190.214.214m0.170.193.830m0.150.173.440m0.140.163.280m0.130.153.0 QRP CMCC

Insertion Loss of a QROp (20 watts) Common Mode Current Choke (CMCC)

BandQRP (5 watts) CMCC Insertion Loss (dB)RF Power Lost (watts)% RF Power Lost10m0.180.814.0512m0.160.723.6015m0.150.683.4017m0.130.592.9514m0.110.502.5030m0.100.462.3040m0.090.412.0580m0.080.371.85 QROp CMCC

The (not so) grand total of RF going up the chimney

BandTotal QRP (5W) % RF power lost to heatTotal QROp (20W) % RF power lost to heat10m14.29.0912m13.28.7515m12.68.3517m11.87.6514m11.27.0030m10.66.8040m10.06.5580m18.46.80

The white bearded man in the red suit and his flying reindeer might be grateful for a few watts of heat going up the chimney at this time of year, but those of us in the frozen barren tundra of the northern states and provinces, as well as licensed ham dwellers in other cold lands, may not see things the same way.

What can we conclude?

If we only consider the insertion loss – in this example – of the 4:1 voltage unun and the Common Mode Current Choke and ignore resistive losses in the transmission line, and possibly insertion loss in a transmatch (“tuner”), we can determine the potential efficiency of our antenna system.

  • For our QRP devices the efficiency varies between 81.6% and 90% across the bands
  • For our QRO devices the efficiency varies between 90.9% and 93.5% across the bands

This conclusion is based on the assumption that there is no loss in the antenna itself. We are treating the antenna, the transmission line, unun and CMCC as the “antenna system”. I have made no allowance for SWR losses for the reasons stated in the introduction to this post.

What a load of old codswallop!

I am an expert in the sense that “X” is an unknown quantity and “spurt” is a drip under pressure. I may be completely wrong; I may have fallen off my horse and bumped my head on a rock. I may have come to a fork in the road and taken it as Yogi Berra once famously said. If you would like to correct me on any wrong assumptions please do so. I receive a lot of direct emails from readers and, while they are most welcome, if you write a comment to this post instead it may trigger an interesting technical discussion here.

A big thank you to all the new and many existing subscribers to Ham Radio Outside the Box. It is people like you who make writing these posts so worthwhile. I appreciate every one of you.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#amateurRadio2 #antennas #cw #outdoorOps #unun