Northwestern Spain
Leaving the Basque Country we continued westward into the Spanish provinces of Cantabria looking for ancient art, Asturias hoping for mountain vistas and Galicia in search of scenic coastline.
Coordinates
Cantabria
Another day, another art gallery—although this one exhibits works tens of thousands of years older than Bilbao’s Guggenheim. The Museo de Altamira (near Santillana del Mar) houses faithful reproductions of some of the most famous prehistoric rock paintings known, inside a bespoke “Neocave”. Recognised for what they were in 1879, the original cave was inhabited by Paleolithic hunter-gatherers from 35,000 years ago until a rockfall 13,000 years ago sealed it, putting it out of use as a seasonal camp—but preserving the contained artefacts and artworks. Several naturalistic bison are depicted on the rock ceiling, formed from a drawing and engraved detailing coloured black with charcoal, then infilled with red ochre (📷1); this one was realised ~15,000 years ago. In some cases—as here—the designs utilise the ceiling’s natural contours to give the animals a sense of depth and movement, making it one of the earliest known examples of shading and volume in art. A number of handprints adorn the ceiling; the artist’s hand was coated in red ochre then pressed onto the rock, in this case 22,000 years ago (📷2). An alternative “airbrush” technique was also utilised to create an outline hand design. The oldest work comprises several parallel double-curved lines; this seemingly abstract “Sign” was painted 36,000 years ago (📷3). Whether the paintings had special meaning, or were simply “art for art’s sake”, is not known. An adjacent exhibition hall contains recovered artefacts and tells the story of human evolution. Among the artefacts found near the cave entrance were these pendants, carved from the hyoid bones of a horse 22,400 years ago (📷4). The entrance to the actual cave is only 300m from the museum, but you can’t approach it. With 17 other caves Altamira forms the “Cave of Altamira and Paleolithic Cave Art of Northern Spain” UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Asturias
Sunset on our mountain pitch
We found a pitch adjacent to Mirador “Pedro Udaondo” in Asiegu with a view of the mountains in Picos de Europa | Peaks of Europe (📷1); the tall and sheer block of rock on the horizon is Picu Urriellu (the local Asturian name) | Naranjo de Bulnes (the Castilian name) at 2,519m. The range extends for 20km, forming part of the Cantabrian Mountains in northern Spain. In the vicinity we encountered Asturian sheep, an endangered Celtic breed with a long, coarse shaggy cream fleece and brown head/ legs that is indigenous to the area (📷2). Circling high overhead as we admired the landscapes were Neophron percopterus | Egyptian vultures, with their distinctive contrasting underwing pattern and wedge-shaped tails (📷3); they must have very recently flown in from Africa (and will return there around September time). In the evening we went down the hill into the mountain village of Asiegu (📷4) where we enjoyed an excellent dinner of local dishes at Sideria Casa Niembro (who had provided the gate code for the free pitch).
Touring isn’t only about the scenery: sampling traditional foods is an obligation. From Sare in the northern Basque Country we savoured Gâteau Basque | Pastel Vasco | Etxeko Biskotxa, a traditional pie-like cake made of a buttery, shortcrust pastry typically filled with cherry jam (📷1) or vanilla cream. In southern Basque Country we sampled Tarta de Queso | Gazta Tarta, the crustless, creamy and caramelized or “burnt” cheesecake originating from San Sebastian but now widely available (📷2); we acquired ours in Zumaia. In the Asturian mountain village of Asiegu we shared a meal of delicious chorizo sausages, corn fritters served with strong Cabrales blue cheese and apple jelly (📷3), and tender roast kid. Our host poured small amounts (a culín) of the almost flat local sidra | cider from a height over a special bucket (📷4); doing so releases tiny bubbles, the temporary fizz imparting texture and flavour that—for our part in the performance—should be consumed within seconds before it reverts!
With a fresh overnight dusting of snow on the peaks we set out to hike an out-and-back section of the 12km point-to-point Ruta del Cares (PR-PNPE 3) trail in Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa. This is the park’s most popular hike, linking Poncebos (Asturias) and Caín (León); it’s considered one of Spain’s most beautiful trails. We parked at Poncebos and initial views of the clear-flowing Río Cares from near the trailhead looked promising (📷1); a short stretch of road led to a well-formed path. The trail climbs through a deep limestone gorge with sheer cliffs that tower above the river; erosion has created rock pillars (📷2) and natural arches (📷3)—but human engineering in this landscape also must be admired. Between 1915 a the early 1920s, the company Electra de Viesgo built a canal to carry water from the Río Cares at Caín to a hydroelectric plant at Camarmeña–Poncebos. Up to 11 km long, it runs through ~70 tunnels excavated largely by hand with the aid of explosives; 11 workers were killed during construction. The maintenance path for this canal, widened between 1945–50, became today’s Ruta del Cares: the canal still carries water alongside, above and beneath the trail (📷4).
At one point on Ruta del Cares, looking down into the canyon, we observed what we think must be a resurgence, where water that has been flowing underground reappears at the surface; they’re common in karst landscapes (📷1). The trail, like the canal itself, passes through a number of tunnels when cutting into the sheer rock face isn’t enough (📷2); this bridged section includes a steel grate so you can see the drop beneath your feet (📷3). We turned around just beyond this window in the rock wall (📷4), at ~8.5km (about two thirds along the route), corresponding to the Riega las Párvulas waterfall, just beyond the border with the León region.
The trail was no less dramatic walking it in the opposite direction (📷1). On our outbound leg the mountain goats were generally high above us, sometimes heard but not seen. On our return leg a number had descended onto the trail (📷2). At one point we encountered a “toll goat”, hoping to extract a fair exchange for passage through one of the tunnels (we didn’t feed it). A view ahead to a stretch of “up” before the final descent to the trailhead (📷3). Did we mention we saw goats? This she-goat was actively licking at a very particular patch of rock, which we took to be a quest for salt (📷4); apparently sodium is scarce in their normal alpine plant-based diet. All told the hike was 17km/ 5h out-and-back. Note there’s a non-zero probability of rockfall, but this trail is up there with the best we’ve done.
Smalls from the Ruta del Cares were plentiful. Glandora prostrata | the creeping gromwell is native to Spain, Portugal and France (📷1); this was everywhere trail side, with a velvety sheen that seemed to confuse autofocus! Erodium cicutarium | the redstem stork’s bill is native to the Mediterranean Basin (📷2); after flowering it produces long, beak-shaped seed pods. Helleborus foetidus | the stinking hellebore is a mountain native belonging to the buttercup family (📷3); the species name is Latin for “foul-smelling”, the result of bruised/ crushed leaves. Globularia nudicaulis | the leafless-stemmed globularia (📷4); this native is so-named because the stem is naked, with leaves in a low rosette at ground level.
Helicella itala | the heath snail is a native land snail (📷1); during hot, dry periods it climbs up vegetation and seals itself inside its shell to avoid overheating and dehydration. Dianthus hyssopifolius | the fringed pink is native to Spain, Portugal and France (📷2); it’s well adapted to rocky alpine environments. Pinguicula grandiflora | the large-flowered butterwort is another native (📷3); the flower is atypically large for a butterwort. Not all the smalls we noticed were living: being limestone country, some of the rocks contained the bodies of marine animals fossilised millions of years ago (📷4). Tectonic uplift transformed an ancient shallow sea into mountains!
The next morning it was hard to beat sipping coffee with a view out the van sliding door from pitch in Asiegu, as the rising sun lit the snow-capped mountains of Picos de Europa:
Morning light on Picos de Europa
Ruta a los Lagos de Covadonga (PR.PNPE-2) was our second trail in Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa. The road from Covadonga to reach the trailhead is fairly long and winding; it closes to private cars at busy times (replaced by park and ride). En route we stopped at Mirador de la Reina for stunning views back over the still misty lowlands we’d driven through (📷1). There in the morning chill we were in turn observed by roosting Gyps fulvus | Eurasian griffon vultures, perhaps waiting for thermals to form (📷2). We drove on to Lago Enol, the first of a pair of glacial lakes (📷3), parking at Aparcamiento Buferrera. We noticed fire on an adjacent peak and later watched a helicopter drop a bucket of water on it. There’s a short detour to Minas de Buferrera, where manganese and iron were extracted intermittently between 1868 and 1979 (the road to the lakes is a legacy of mining activity). “Flower of the day” went to Narcissus bulbocodium | the hoop-petticoat daffodil, a native to Spain, Portugal and France (📷4).
Continuing on Ruta a los Lagos de Covadonga, Largo de la Ercina had the prettier backdrop (📷1). We noted more new-to-us flowers; this is Erythronium dens-canis | dogtooth violet, native to central and southern Europe (📷2). A large part of the trail led us over limestone areas (📷3). Ermita de El Buen Pastor is a small hermitage sitting in the Vega de Enol, a high mountain meadow adjacent to Lago Enol at ~1,070m altitude (📷4); the contrast of this small human-built structure set against a vast, dramatic alpine landscape gives you pause. This was a 6km/ 2h loop.
For our last night in Asturias we came to Salas (📷1); this historic village offers accommodation to pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago. What drew us here in a van, you might ask? Four reasons:
First, it has a highly-rated laundromat. After a little over a week on the road our attire was in need of refreshing.Second, it was a comfortable distance between points-of-interest. Driving can be tiring, especially when narrow mountain roads are involved.Third, it’s camper van/ motorhome friendly, providing free-to-use services: parking overnight legally in dedicated area; potable water; grey water disposal; and toilet cassette emptying.Lastly, we also needed to buy groceries. In addition to usual supplies we acquired the local specialty biscuit, Carajitos (📷2). Available from La Casa del Profesor (est. 1918) on the main street, these soft and flavoursome hazelnut-based treats are apparently world famous in Asturias!SalasCarajitos
Galicia
We continued west to Monumento Natural Praia das Catedrais (near Ribadeo), where a series of arches resemble the flying buttresses of Gothic cathedrals; at low tide sea conditions didn’t allow us safe access. Views from the cliff top platforms were underwhelming.
Disappointed, we drove on to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Muralla Romana de Lugo | the Roman walls of Lugo—once the Roman colonial town of Lucus Augusti in the province of Hispania Tarraconensis. The walls were built in the 3rd C. CE to defend against local tribesmen and Germanic invaders. About 2.1km long, 4.2m wide and 8–12m in height, internal and external stone facings were supported by a cemented rubble core (📷1); you can walk the full length of the parapet. Originally featuring an incredible count of 88 towers, these were mostly semicircular at intervals of 5.4–12.8m with bases of dressed granite topped with slate (📷2); 49 are still intact. Five of the current 10 gates are Roman in origin, including Porta de San Pedro (📷3); it was reconstructed in 1781. Many buildings within the walls are badly decayed; Lugo was nearly deserted during our visit. We looked through Sala Porta Miñá, a contemporary history museum, where they have an excavated stone-built Roman cloaca | sewer on display (📷4).
The 55m Torre de Hércules | Tower of Hercules (📷1&2) at A Coruña was built during the 1st C. CE, during the reign of Emperor Trajan, and is UNESCO-listed as the oldest surviving Roman lighthouse. It’s still in use today, making it the oldest functioning lighthouse in the world: that’s two thousand years of continuous maritime safety service! It underwent major restoration in the 18th C. (reflected in the current neoclassical shell) and until the 20th C. was known as Farum Brigantium. You can ordinarily climb the spiral staircase within the Roman core; it was closed for renovation during our visit. On the adjacent granite headland are even older relics: the Petroglifos de Punta Herminia are a group of prehistoric rock carvings dated to 2500–1800 BCE. They’re very weathered/ hard to make out, so not as photogenic as the Atlantic surf smashing onto the rocks below (📷3). Onwards to O Ézaro, where we admired the dramatic rocky landscape surrounding the Río Xallas (📷4). This reflects a very old granite core formed ~300 million years ago, and very lengthy erosion causing large fractures, rounded domes, sheer cliffs and boulder formations.
Fervenza do Ézaro is a waterfall on the Río Xallas | River Xallas at O Ézaro on the rugged Costa da Morte | Coast of Death (where Atlantic storms, hidden rocks and fog/ sea mist have led to many shipwrecks and drownings). Next to a hydroelectric power plant, the Ézaro waterfall is billed as “one of the only sites in Europe where a river cascades directly into the sea” (📷1). While this could be contested given they are ~1.4km upstream of the shoreline, the falls are nevertheless scenic (📷2). About 16km south of O Ézaro is the village of Carnota, site of the Hórreo de Carnota, built 1760–1783 (📷3). This hórreo | granary in the typical Fisterran style is the longest in Galicia at 34.76m. Once used to store, dry and conserve corn/ other crops, most hórreo (there are 884+ in this municipality alone) are now merely “decorative statements” given the decline of agricultural traditions. Carnota also boasts a long sandy beach, Praia de Carnota, backed by sand dunes and a salt marsh. From it you can see to Cape Finisterre (after the Latin “Finis Terrae” | “end of the earth”), which the Romans considered the edge of the known world (📷4).
Christian pilgrims flock to Santiago de Compostela’s cathedral (📷1), built 1075–1211 CE with later additions, to visit the tomb of the apostle Saint James the Great. Although said to have died in Jerusalem in 44 CE, medieval legend holds that his followers, guided by divine intervention, brought his body to Galicia. Pilgrims walk the Camino de Santiago, a network of interlinked routes converging here from across much of Europe—as symbolised by the scallop shell. A unique feature of the cathedral’s nave, the “Botafumeiro” is a large silver censer (incense burner) that is swung across the transept during special services (📷2). The cathedral fronts onto to Praza do Obradoiro, a grand square surrounded by other historic buildings including Pazo de Raxoi | the neoclassical town hall (📷3) and Hostal dos Reis Católicos, a luxury hotel that was once a 15th C. pilgrims hospital (📷4). The medieval historic center of town is a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site.
Mercado de Abastos is Santiago de Compostela’s main market, offering fresh seafood (📷1), produce, and tapas—if you’re not too early! The old town includes examples of a classic feature of northern Spanish architecture called a “galería” (📷2); these enclosed balconies are especially common in Galicia and provide a “glass skin” that shields the home from rain and wind while providing passive solar heating and extra usable space (plants, laundry drying, etc.). Parque da Alameda is a green space close to the old town and offers an elevated perspective of the cathedral skyline (📷3). We visited Museo do Pobo Galego, a former convent that exhibits artefacts from traditional Galician life; it features an unusual staircase with three intertwined spiralling paths that end abruptly at different doors (📷4). The baroque Monastery of San Martín Pinario near the cathedral is said to have ornate interiors; it was closed to visitors.
From Santiago de Compostela we drove south. Ría de Vigo is a drowned river valley near the city of Vigo; it’s known for providing a sheltered harbour (the Cíes Islands act as a barrier against the Atlantic), for mussel farming rafts called “bateas” and for white sand beaches. On the northern side Praia da Folla de Nerga a.k.a. Playa de Nerga is popular (📷1). On the southern side there’s a string of beaches on the outskirts of Vigo connected by a long promenade with views of the Cíes Islands (📷2). At the town of Baiona the large Fortaleza De Monterreal is surrounded by ~3km of walls, mostly built between the 11th to 17th centuries (📷3); the strategic hilltop has been fortified for 2,000 years and is now occupied by a hotel. We turned inland to Tui, wandering the medieval old town that features a fortress-like cathedral built during the 12th and 13th centuries (📷4).
Tui offers views across the Miño River into the Portuguese town of Valença—the next destination on our loop through the Iberian Peninsula.
#2026 #asturias #camperVan #cantabria #europe #galicia #hiking #nationalPark #nature #nomad #roadTrip #romans #spain #travel #unesco #vanLife