Fell Fine Bakers: the thread about Robert McVitie, Alexander Grant and their enduringly popular biscuits

Edinburgh’s industrial heritage is often overshadowed both by the prominence of law, education and medicine in the city and the dominance of its western neighbour (I’m talking about you, Glasgow!) However there were some sectors where Edinburgh became a national powerhouse. Where Dundee is renowned as the City of Jute, Jam and Journalism it is more commonly forgotten than remembered that Edinburgh had Beer, Books and… Biscuits! Such was the significance of the baking industry that in 1939 three of the UK’s four largest biscuit producers had their origins in Edinburgh and Leith, producing between them over 79,000 tons of biscuits per annum. This was 43% of the total output of members of the National Association of Biscuit Manufacturers (it should be noted that these bakers all had multiple factories around the UK, and Edinburgh was not itself producing 43% of all biscuits!).

CompanyOriginOutput (tons per annum)Garfield Weston (Allied Bakeries)Edinburgh34,500Meredith & DrewLondon29,360William Crawford & SonsLeith26,080McVitie & PriceEdinburgh18,800Peek, Frean & Co.London18,590Huntley & PalmerReading16,370Macfarlane Lang & Co.Glasgow15,050Carr & Co.Carlisle14,520Jacob & Co.Liverpool13,330After “A Fell Fine Baker”, The Story of United Biscuits, James S. Adam, 1974A map of baking and allied industrial locations in Edinburgh, from an early 1960s Geographical Atlas of the city. Similar maps were provided for the Brewing and Bookbinding and printing industries.

In Edinburgh itself, the largest biscuit bakery was McVitie & Price. This company started out way back in 1830 when Dumfries baker Robert McVitie (senior) came to the city to join his father. The latter had had inherited property here from his brother and together they opened a bakery at 129 Rose Street (now an Indian restaurant, where many years ago I had the hottest curry of my life!) When Robert married Catherine Gairns in 1844 the money she brought allowed the business to expand. More salubrious premises at 23 Queensferry Street were acquired and Robert took a keen interest in European baking trends. He introduced the Viennese loaf to Scotland and styled the family shop “Boulangerie Francaise et Viennoise“. Robert retired in 1884 at 75 and his son Robert (junior) took over and split the retail and baking operations apart, moving the latter to larger premises at 8-9 Merchant Street.

129 Rose Street, the original McVitie’s bakery

One day in 1887 a young man by the name of Alexander Grant, a baker from Forres, walked into McVitie’s shop on Queensferry Street looking for a job. Robert (junior) was behind the counter and told him there were none going. “It’s a pity“, Grant remarked, “for I’m a fell fine baker.” Turning to leave, he picked up a scone from a display, examined it and declared “well, onyways, ye canna mak scones in Edinburgh“. McVitie hired him on the spot and it was as well that he did as Grant proved to be the golden goose that would lay the Digestive biscuit in 1891, making McVities a household name and a fortune in the process.

McVitie & Price’s Digestive, The Finest of All Wholemeal Biscuits

Grant kept the precise recipe of his biscuit secret, personally supervising the mixing machine room. Machines would lie idle if he was away in London on business, awaiting his return by train. His elder daughter Elizabeth would later take over custodianship of the secret recipe to ensure that mixing and baking could go on constantly.

Robert McVitie proved to have a skill for hiring the right people. One such hire, George Andrews Brown, was sent to establish a sales branch in London were he found the company’s large Scotch biscuits didn’t sell and that their version of the Rich Tea was too hard for southern tastes. He fed this back to Edinburgh, where Grant developed the smaller, crisper, modern version of this biscuit in response. Brown is also credited with the idea of the filled, cream sandwich biscuit: think of him and dunk his memory the next time you enjoy a Bourbon or Custard Cream. In 1888 McVitie engaged a commercial traveller from Cadbury’s – Charles Price – on the basis that if his sales proved him he would be made a partner in the firm. Price sold the biscuits and McVitie was true to his word, the company becoming McVitie & Price. Charles Price joined at a pivotal moment when the company was looking to expand and had just bought land on Stewart Terrace in Gorgie (which had only been incorporated into Edinburgh a few years earlier in 1882) to build a new industrial bakery, the St. Andrew’s Biscuit Factory.

Bartholomew Town Plan of Edinburgh, 1891, showing the original St. Andrew’s works on Stewart Terrace. Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland

Disaster struck in 1894 when a fire completely destroyed the new factory, causing £25,000 (c. £2.6M in 2023) of damage. The fire was discovered by Price, working late.Firemaster Wilkins, all available men and two steam fire engines were soon on the scene, but could not save the factory.

“Great Fire in Edinburgh”, Lincolnshire Echo, Thursday 15 February 1894

This setback might have caused lesser men to crumble, but McVitie, Price and Grant stepped up to the challenge and would turn the adversity into an opportunity. They found that there was no spare factory space in Edinburgh – or even in Scotland – to rent and had to go as far away as Malton in Yorkshire to set up a temporary works. Grant was put in charge of this operation and proved himself a capable manager. The St. Andrew’s Works arose again from the ashes, much enlarged and completely modernised. It was now the largest and newest biscuit factory in the country, capable of baking 1 ton of biscuits, per oven, per day.

Former St. Andrew’s Biscuit Factory administrative building on Robertson Avenue, now converted to houses.

The company could hardly keep up with demand. Their trade in London, secured by George Andrews Brown, grew ten-fold between 1896 and 1900; from £10,000 to £100,000 a year. It made no commercial sense to transport all these biscuits to the southern metropolis from Edinburgh and so an even bigger new factory was built in Harlesden in London. Opening in 1902, the Edinburgh Biscuit Works employed 2,000 workers and had an output three times that of the St. Andrew’s works. Grant took an obsessive approach to the establishment of the operation in London, travelling down every other day by train for the first 3 months of business to personally oversee the mixing of all biscuit doughs, returning to Edinburgh on the overnight train to keep his other eye on mixing there too. To ensure nobody else could bake biscuits behind his back he took the only copies of the biscuit-cutting dies with him, back and forth between Edinburgh and London. This tireless approach to work was very much in Grant’s nature. He worked a 6 day, 60 hour week, read every trade journal cover-to-cover, and still found time to study Food Chemistry at the Heriot-Watt College.

The Edinburgh Biscuit Works (which was in London! The Edinburgh Factory was always known as the St. Andrew’s works) in 1915

Another key to the success and meteoric rise of the company was royal patronage. This began in 1893 at the wedding of the future King George V and Queen Mary, when Queen Victoria’s personal confectioner was overwhelmed by demand and so the wedding cakes were contracted out. McVitie & Price were the only Scottish firm to get one of the five prestigious cake orders and rose to the occasion, producing a gigantic cake standing 6′ 4″ tall (1.93m), 8′ (2.43m) in circumference at the base, weighing 466lbs (211kg) and costing 140 guineas (c. £15.5k in 2023). The cake was exhibited for 2 days in Edinburgh and fourteen thousand people queued to see it before it was shipped to London, . This “major work of baking and confection art” was declared by Princess Mary to be the stand out of the lot.

Evening News sketch of the Royal Wedding Cake of 1893. Interestingly, the News attributes this cake to the firm of Aitchison & sons on Queen Street, although the official History of United Biscuits claims it for McVitie & Price

This secured a Royal Warrant of Appointment for McVitie & Price and established them as the go-to bakers of royal wedding, anniversary and christening cakes for the best part of the next 65 years; they produced wedding cakes for both the future King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, and for Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip. In accordance with an old tradition, the top tiers of the wedding cakes were kept and sent back to McVitie’s for redecoration as the christening cakes for the first children of the union.

McVitie’s workers put the finishing touches to a wedding cake baked in 1934 for Prince George, Duke of Kent and Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark

Robert McVitie died aged only 56 in 1910. The company was converted to a Limited structure as McVitie & Price Ltd, even though the latter partner had officially retired in 1906 when he took up the seat of Edinburgh Central in the House of Commons as Liberal Party MP. The new board sensibly promoted Alexander Grant to the positions of both Chairman and Managing Director, cementing his position as the foremost industrial baker of his age. In 1916, after nearly dying from double pneumonia, he convinced the National Bank of Scotland to back him in a buyout of the company, which he continued to run with the single-minded determination for which he was renowned, right up until his death in 1937.

Sir Alexander Grant, 1st Baronet of Forres. Painted by Sir William Samuel Henry Llewellyn

It was the pressure of overwork that nearly killed grant during WW1 – the company had a huge government contract to bake iron ration biscuits for the men in the trenches. The factories in Edinburgh and London could not cope with this demand and so a new operation was started in Stockport, Manchester. To help ease the strain, he brought his son (Robert McVitie Grant) and his son-in-law (Hector Laing senior) into top level positions in the company, but not before they worked their way up from the bottom at Grant’s insistence: they started out stoking ovens on the night shift so that they would be familiar with every aspect of the business. On his wedding day, Hector Laing’s father-in-law-to-be insisted he came into work in the morning before being officially passed as fit to wed his daughter. It was worth it though, as Grant’s nepotism made Laing a very wealthy man indeed.

The McVitie & Price factory in Stockport

In 1928, McVitie & Price unleashed the Jaffa Cake (“something new in biscuits“) onto the market. Surprisingly, it wasn’t much of a success – at least not yet.

1928 advert for McVitie & Price’s new lines, with the Jaffa Cake at the top.

Grant personally managed all details of his company from top to bottom. As well as being obsessive about the biscuit mixes and quality he took a keen interest in the sales side, appointing (and firing) all the salesmen personally. But he was also a sensible delegator. When Lord Thomas Horder, the royal physician, complained to him in 1933 that he couldn’t get Scandinavian rye crispbreads in the UK, Grant put his son to the task who came up with MacVita cracker.

MacVita crispbread advertisement from 1950s

He was a close friend and patron of his fellow Morayshire loon, Labour politician Ramsay MacDonald. He made campaign contributions to him and in 1924 caused a political scandal in the wrong sorts of papers by donating a Rolls Royce to the new PM for his personal use, plus 30,000 McVities shares to pay for its upkeep. This criticism stung Grant. In his eyes he was giving his friend – who was not in himself a wealthy man – a gift from his own pocket, and asking nothing in return, thus sparing the nation the expense of official transport. His receipt of the heredity Baronetcy of Forres 1924 was used to claim he had bought political favour. In reality, he received the honour for his efforts to help establish the National Library of Scotland. He donated £100,000 (c. £5M in 2023) towards this establishment, but did so by handing over a blank cheque for the Chairman of the National Library Committee to fill in as he saw fit, instructing his banker to make sure it was paid without question. A further £100,000 followed in the 1930s to help fund the construction of the building on George IV Bridge in Edinburgh.)

Commemorative glass engraving in the National Library of Scotland building, CC-0 Triptropic

Always a generous man, pressed from the mould of the philanthropic Victorian industrialist, the scandal didn’t put Grant off of benefaction. In his home town of Forres, he gifted towards renovation of the Parish Church, a new fire engine and the public park, named Grant Park in his honour. He donated a golf course to Lossiemouth and paid for the reconstruction of Nairn public baths. His last act of generosity was £10,000 (c. £570k in 2023) in 1937 to provide for a 4,000 piece silver & crystalware banqueting set, hand made by Scottish artisans, for the Palace of Holyroodhouse. After attending the coronation of King George Vi and Queen Elizabeth in May 1937, Grant fell ill once again with pneumonia and died at home in Edinburgh on May 21st.

The company passed to his son, Robert McVitie Grant, who would form a close working relationship with Glasgow competitors Macfarlane, Lang & Co. in the 1940s in the spirit of the national wartime economy. This economy saw the product line slashed from 370 different types of cakes and biscuits to just 10 by 1945 (thus removing the Jaffa Cake from shelves for almost 20 years). Robert died suddenly in 1948 and largely as a result of this the two companies merged to form United Biscuits, an industrial giant. McVities were the senior partner in the merger and dominated the new corporate structure, although it was alternately run from factories in Edinburgh, Manchester and London. The company gave their individual factories relative commercial freedom (to the point in having their own specific recipes for the same biscuits, thus often competing with eachother). But this allowed the St. Andrew’s works in Edinburgh under Morton Young to take the initiative and reintroduce the Jaffa Cake, which by the mid-1950s was being churned out in Gorgie at the rate of 10,000 tins a day!

“Jaffa Man” Jaffa Cake tin from the 1970s. My Nana had this exact tin and it was a feature of my childhood.

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#Lochend #Logan #Restalrig #StMargaret

I tried digestive biscuits from M&S, Lidl, Asda and more — 1 was better than McVitie's

https://fed.brid.gy/r/https://www.mirror.co.uk/lifestyle/food-drink/supermarket-digestive-biscuit-taste-test-37032469

Toffee Crisp and Blue Riband can't be called chocolate any more

'Nestle has reformulated Toffee Crisp and Blue Riband bars, reducing their cocoa and milk solid content below UK chocolate standards, leading to their reclassification as "encased in a smooth milk chocolate flavour coating." This change, driven by rising cocoa prices, reflects a broader industry trend known as "skimpflation," where companies adjust recipes to manage increased production costs. Similar adjustments have been made by other brands, such as McVitie's, which recently relabelled its Penguin and Club bars as "chocolate flavour."'
[Summarised by Apple Intelligence]

#Nestle #ToffeeCrisp #BlueRiband #MilkChocolate #CocoaPrices #Skimpflation #RecipeChange #ProductionCosts #McVities #ChocolateFlavour #Reclassification #FoodIndustry

http://bbc.com/news/articles/c79x7q325p3o

Toffee Crisp and Blue Riband can't be called chocolate any more

Nestle has used more vegetable oil in it recipes, meaning the treats no longer qualify as chocolate under UK law

McVities’ Digestives with dark chocolate are better than the ones with milk chocolate. The plain ones are still to try.

#Food #McVities #Digestives #Biscuits

Well f... me the MSM finally starting to catch up, i posted about the chocolate palm oil rip off weeks ago. They don't mention white coated kitkats though.

#Nestle #Club #Penguin #Chocolate #kitkat #food #McVities

https://news.sky.com/liveblog-webview/money-latest-personal-finance-consumer-sky-news-blog-13040934

Money blog: Penguins and Clubs can no longer be called 'chocolate' - and McVitie's has had to change iconic slogan

Welcome to the Money blog, Sky News' consumer hub. We kick off every Monday with a careers deep dive, today asking an aesthetics doctor what his job is really like. And there's bad news if you like a lot of chocolate on your biscuit.

Sky News

“We made some changes to McVitie’s Penguin and Club earlier this year, where we are using a chocolate flavour coating with cocoa mass, rather than a chocolate coating. Sensory testing with consumers shows the new coatings deliver the same great taste as the originals.”

Who are you trying to kid?

https://www.theguardian.com/business/2025/oct/18/chocolate-biscuit-club-penguin-mcvities-cocoa-prices

#Chocolate #Biscuits #McVities

If you like a lot of chocolate on your biscuit … look away now

Club and Penguin bars are now ‘chocolate flavour’ after owner McVitie’s cuts cocoa content amid soaring prices

The Guardian

It was really interesting to try McVities’ Milk Chocolate Digestives - according to some studies, they’re the most favourably viewed biscuit among the British. And who else but the British should you trust when picking biscuits?

The biscuits are indeed quite tasty. Not overly sweet, well‑balanced, a little crunchy but still soft enough. Chocolate covering isn't bad as well.

https://yougov.co.uk/consumer/articles/22165-britains-top-five-biscuits-revealed

#Food #McVities #Digestives #Biscuits

It gets frigging worse this time from @McVities. We now have chocolate flavoured bars but have the privilege of paying more for it.

#NoFakeFood #McVities #Chocolate #FakeChocolate #Food