When we left the town of Genaro Codina, the road went steeply uphill. When we reached a kind of plateau, we rolled leisurely along stony paths through the isolation. Only a few horses and cows kept us company. Or so we thought. When Tomte woke up, we stopped, ate lunch and played ball. We were amazed when suddenly five conspicuously classy off-road vehicles slowly moved towards us to stop. About 15 heavily armed men got out. A handful came up to us and greeted us politely while the others spread out with their weapons within a radius of twenty meters. We were offered energy drinks, cookies and sweets. We were asked where we came from and whether we needed water or food. We played along, pretended to be very happy and politely accepted all the gifts, except for the marijuana. Then they all shook hands with us, said goodbye in a very friendly manner and drove on, not without telling us that they were “here” if we needed help.
We had no doubt that we had just encountered members of a cartel.
Bewildered and somewhat relieved, with squeaky-sweet, awful-tasting energy drinks in our hands, we took a deep breath and then continued our journey through the Sierra. It's a good thing that the cartels aren't usually interested in getting into trouble with tourists. Quite the opposite. They don't want to attract foreign attention so that they can go about their criminal business in peace. Other cyclists also told us about encounters with the cartels and they were always treated with the utmost courtesy.
But we didn't really feel comfortable for the rest of the day. We were happy when the opportunity arose in the evening to camp with nomadic cattle herders. In their company, we were able to relax in our tent, digest our experiences and listen to the howling of the coyotes in the distance.
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