At six in the morning, Lake Como is perfectly still, a mirror reflecting the first light of day. The beach is peaceful now despite the August crowds and late-night barbecues. Even so, I managed some sleep. Breakfast comes in unexpected good company, Flor and her father, José Ernesto, before I set off towards Colico and the start of the Sentiero Valtellina. Following the Adda upstream, the cycle path crosses fields, villages, and stretches of engineered river. Along the way I meet Sergo, nearly eighty and still touring by bike. After riding together for a while, we part ways at Decathlon, where I replace a few missing items and recharge my power bank.

Running late, I skip Sondrio and continue through woodland and orchards to Tirano, where I stop for lunch beside the tracks of the Bernina Express. By mid-afternoon I begin the climb towards Bormio, whose ascent is harder than expected, with steep ramps that repeatedly break the rhythm. After a welcomed stop in Sondalo, I continue into an increasingly dramatic valley. Signs warn of landslide closures, but the alternative is a long tunnel, so I press on. Waterfalls cascade down the mountainsides, and the scar of a catastrophic landslide dominates the landscape. The closure itself turns out to be little more than a few rocks on the road—another example of what I call the Italian “liability syndrome.” Beyond it, Bormio appears, framed by a magnificent ring of mountains.

After 114 kilometres, the Sentiero Valtellina ends. I continue to a natural thermal pool, the perfect reward after a long day in the saddle. Back at a comfortable bivouac spot, I pitch the tent, eat dinner, watch a few stars, and fall asleep to the sound of the torrent I will follow upstream tomorrow.

Tomorrow it's Stelvio day.

#cycling #cicloturista #cycletouring #valtellina #Alps #italy #lombrdia #bormio #nature #naturephotography #views

The first pedal stroke leaving home feels different when the journey is long. You set off as early as possible and watch the Varese area wake through new eyes. Lake Varese stretches awake; the Valganna looks different from the main road. A coffee at the border listening to old men chat, then a shortcut through Switzerland, with its touristy pseudo-seaside vibe around Lugano and its wide cycle lanes.

Lugano is crowded with visitors from every corner of the world, and the road towards Porlezza throws in a few steep ramps where the heat bites—only to reward the effort with magnificent mountains rising from the pure blue water. Back in Italy, things feel more down-to-earth. The cycle path towards Lake Como winds through woods, small lakes, farmland and pastures before a fast descent reaches Menaggio, where international tourists reappear. Bellagio lies straight across the water; they must have arrived by boat.

Further north the lake grows quieter. An intermittent cycle path bypasses the tunnels of the statale and reveals astonishing scenery. How much motorists miss by rushing underground—and how much peace they leave behind. Still rubbing sleep from my eyes, I reach Cremia for the first swim of the trip.

Without lingering, I continue north. Narrow cycle paths make speed impossible, forcing me back onto the statale. Campsites are everywhere, mostly occupied by Dutch and German holidaymakers. They hold little appeal; I want to sleep wild. After the lake ends and I cross the Pian di Spagna, I reach the Adda’s mouth. Google calls it a wild beach. The last bathers leave as I take a swim and choose a spot for the tent.

Night falls. Summer festival music drifts from afar, and fireworks from some village sagra sparkle on the horizon. These are the days for it. All that remains is to sleep—if the kids at the barbecue a few hundred metres away ever quiet down.

#cycletouring #nature #views #lake #mountains #italy #Switzerland #Varese #como

Alcuni scatti sul nuovo tratto della ciclo pedonale tra Andora e Cervo

#andora #cervo #cycletouring #italytravel

Wahooooo, more prep for the cycle touring holiday #CycleTouring

#biketooter #cycletouring #cycling. Arrived at the outward destination this morning. That's one segment done. Riding back towards Belgium today. Solo return ride. The wind is being kinder today.

#selfie #gravelcycling #cycletouring

#gravelcycling #cycletouring #sauerland