Sweet Crimes

Two things that Phoenix needs more of (besides shade of course) are shoe shines and ice cream. Many Phoenicians walk around with scuffed shoes, and Sky Harbor airport hasn’t had a shine concession for years. As for ice cream, with hot weather only getting hotter, a frozen treat should typically be a stone’s throw away and not require a special trip. In downtown Phoenix, those two disparate businesses have come together at Sweet Crimes, a candy and ice cream shop operated by the same folks behind the longstanding Andy’s shoe shine and repair shop.

Sweet Crimes occupies a tiny spot in the heart of downtown Phoenix on Adams Street, halfway between the Downtown Phoenix Hub and Central Station, making it accessible via both the A and B lines. Bike racks are found embedded in nearby parking racks or around the corner by the Hyatt Place hotel on Second Avenue. The shop is so tiny that just a few people can stand inside, and the only seating is a small table and some chairs on the sidewalk between the ice cream store and Andy’s shoe shine shop, the parent business which is located right next door.

This shop sells Thrifty ice cream, a favorite scooped from tubs in water and ice stores in strip malls throughout the city, but Sweet Crimes introduces the product in a more urban context. Available flavors are displayed on a sandwich board on the sidewalk outside the shop, and a menu lists the formats available (cup, cone, or ice cream sandwich) in terms of their “fines,” or prices. Thrift would not be considered artisanal, but it is dependable. Chocolate Malt Krunch and strawberry cheesecake are among the strongest choices, along with basics like butter pecan.

There are usually a dozen flavors listed, along with a non-dairy ice cream alternative like mango ice. The frozen desserts can be served in foam cups or various types of cones, an option that allows one-handed enjoyment while walking down the streets of Downtown. The slightly fancier options are a cookie sundae with a scoop of ice cream on top of a soft cookie, or a Cookie Monster, a sandwich with the ice cream placed between two cookies. Although the menu lists both chocolate chip and snickerdoodle, only the former has been available during recent visits.

Assuming chocolate chip remains the default cookie, it pairs well with any of the flavors previously mentioned, along with black cherry with bits of fruit in its creamy base. Of course, Thrifty is a value brand, so that means some compromises. The mint chip, for example, is tinted green, but paradoxically that often indicates less flavor than more. It’s serviceable, but not at the level of intensity found at local shops like Sweet Republic or even the store-bought product from Trader Joe’s. Keeping it simple here is the best way to enjoy a quick treat at Sweet Crimes.

In addition to ice cream, the shop sells popular brands of candy, as well as bottled and canned soft drinks. It’s nothing fancy, but it’s the kind of shop that enriches a neighborhood by offering basic treats in a walkable environment. To do that walking, it’s best to have well-polished shoes in good repair, and Andy’s shop can take care of those needs. Before or after that essential stop, Andy and his wife Grace can offer a treat in terms of ice cream, candy, or a cookie – all sweet crimes ironically located across the street from Phoenix’s new police headquarters.

114 W. Adams St., Phoenix AZ 85003

Centrico

As recently as a decade ago, it was hard to find a good taco, or any taco at all, in the core downtown business district of Phoenix. Business travelers and convention attendees expected the Southwest’s largest city to offer Mexican food within walking distance of their hotels. Instead, they were directed to options that might be near downtown but not within the walkable core of the city. Now, there are a multitude of choices within a block or two of one another, including Centrico, now nearly a decade old and recently relocated to a bigger and better space.

Centrico originated in a tiny space at the nearby San Carlos hotel. With that historic property slated for an extensive renovation whenever financing is finally arranged, tenants have to find new quarters, and Centrico did just that by relocating to the ground floor of the 101 North building, formerly the U.S Bank Center, a block to the west. Like its new neighbor Hiromi Sushi, Centrico has experienced a considerable upgrade upon arrival  in this office tower, which is conveniently situated two blocks north of the Downtown Phoenix Hub on both the A and B lines.

Bike racks are embedded in parking meters along both Monroe and First Avenue, and the restaurant’s patio addresses both streets. Like the dining room behind it, the patio is considerably larger than at the prior location, and customers have generally kept it busy since the relocation. The upgraded dining room decor includes wooden booths and a bar, swooping lanterns, and abundant plants. It’s a look that seems true to the simplicity of the original Centrico but with enough of an upgrade to suggest the restaurant has both grown up and gussied a bit.

In its old location, Centrico was constrained by a small kitchen.That prevented an expansive menu, but it was also an opportunity to define a focused mission of doing a few things and doing them really well. Even in its current expanded space, Centrico has maintained a relatively narrow niche of tacos and a few other Mexican and American favorites, executing them generally quite well, but not trying to offer an endless parade of large format combination platters. Fortunately, all the favorites from classic Centrico remain available at the new site.

Centrico’s menu starts with a section of antojitos, or appetizers, generally designed to be shared. The Guacamole al Momento is mixed tableside and is as much about the pockets of flavor and heat from the added serrano chiles, onion, tomato, and cilantro as it is about the avocado and accompanying basket of chips. The chile verde, which can easily function as an entree, is a stew of tender meat enlivened with Oaxaca cheese and salsa verde. Soft, warm tortillas provided on the side are ideal for scooping, dipping, or something in between the two.

Shrimp empanadas begin with an outer layer that is light and flaky, and the interior is dominated as much by mashed potatoes as it is by crustaceans. The accompanying sauce, described as “habanero aioli” is unexpectedly mild and even a little sweet. A starter of flautas de papas goes all the way with mashed potatoes, this time stuffed inside crisp, rolled tortillas artfully adorned with cotija cheese, crema, and pickled onions. The Centrico Chop Salad has a base of greens topped with avocado, pinto beans, dried corn, tortilla strips, crumbled chorizo, and pepitas.

At Centrico, the distinction between appetizers and entrees seems somewhat arbitrary since nearly everything is easily shared and of about the same portion size. The tacos are four to an order, but they are far from overwhelming in their size and well-suited to being paired with other dishes. Among the choices of fillings, the Gobernador tacos feature shrimp in a spicy sauce, tamed by Oaxacan cheese, crema, and shredded cabbage. The tinga tacos contain tender shredded chicken, pickled onions, queso fresco, and avocado crema inside flour tortillas.

The same tinga is served inside rolled flour tortillas as enchiladas, topped with a choice of fiery red or tangy green salsa. Enchiladas are also available with a filling of birria, tender beef in a gently spiced entomada sauce. A carne asada burrito contains tender and slightly charred meat inside with rice and whole pinto beans. Chilaquiles, a breakfast favorite also available during lunch hours, offers the option of chips covered with salsa, radishes, onions, crema, beans, and cotija cheese and an optional protein, the best choice being chorizo. Pozole is mild but flavorful.

Throughout the menu, Centrico adds little touches such as sliced radishes that are sometimes left off the plate in tamer, more Americanized presentations found elsewhere. The kitchen is unafraid to put plenty of spice into its Mexican cooking, but there are also some well-crafted but less threatening options such as a bacon double cheeseburger, a chicken club sandwich, and hot cakes and French toast available for hotel guests and downtown workers who might prefer less heat. The sole dessert offering is churros, a quintet of crisp treats with chocolate sauce.

Centrio has a full bar with an emphasis on tequila and mezcal, Mexico’s two spirits derived from the agave plant. As expected, there is a list of margaritas — not syrupy concoctions in oversized glasses, but carefully crafted cocktails such as a sandia (watermelon) margarita accented with a bit of lime. In just a few years, Downtown Phoenix has gone from nearly no Mexican restaurants to a handful of appealing Mexican food options. Now that Mexican cuisine is firmly established in the city’s central business district, Centrico’s approach remains a success in its new location.

101 N. 1st Ave., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://www.centricophx.com

Cleaverman

For those who remember the Arizona Center when the development first opened in 1990, nothing may be more indicative of the complex’s changes than the closure of Hooter’s, the last of the original restaurant lineup to go. Even people who never ventured inside the development were aware of the “breastaurant” due to its prominent location at Third Street and Van Buren. When Hooter’s closed, that left a prime spot ready for a prime tenant. With its new steakhouse Cleaveman, Pretty Decent Concepts appears to be betting big on a revitalized Arizona Center.

Pretty Decent is the same company behind Wren and Wolf a few blocks away, as well as Filthy Animal and Roman God of Fire in Tempe. Unlike many upscale restaurant companies that focus primarily on suburban locations, Pretty Decent has wagered on urban vitality in both Phoenix and Tempe. Cleaverman replicates many of the motifs seen at the company’s other properties while adding a distinctive focus on classic steakhouse fare with a few contemporary updates. The result is a new marquee tenant at what is essentially the front door of the Arizona Center.

That door is found just three blocks east of the Van Buren light rail platforms on the B Line and three blocks north of the Third Street stations on the A Line, making the restaurant accessible by both trains. Bike racks are found on Third Street near Taylor, as well as on the other side near the Sheraton hotel. A sign near the restaurant entrance proclaims, “True love is rare,” and a long corridor leads from the entry to a host station. Beyond lies an expansive dining room that is completely transformed from the days of chicken wings, orange shorts, and white t-shirts.

Like other Pretty Decent restaurants, the dining room is filled with banquettes surrounding columns. Here, they’re designed in a style that looks like Corinthian meeting art deco. For the most part, the furniture is dark wood, although a marble counter at the bar and ample mirrors in strategic locations add a bit of light in a space where the sun is blocked by heavy curtains. A raw bar stands in front of an open kitchen helmed by Jared Porter, a prominent local chef known for his prior work at establishments as diverse as the Parlor, Tesota, and the Clever Koi.

In turning from pizza and ramen to classic steakhouse cuisine, Porter and his crew here have created a menu that is simultaneously classic and contemporary. Appetizers include familiar items with creative flourishes. The crab cake is not only excellent on its own merits but also benefits from a topping of lobster bisque, adding a second layer of complementary crustacean flavor. The French onion meatballs involve spheres of ground beef mixed with bread crumbs, herbs, and even a little bit of anchovies, all swimming in a thick version of classic onion soup.

Steaks are of course central to the entrees. That includes filet mignon in both eight and twelve ounce configurations, as well ribeye, strip loin, and premium wagyu options. The desired level of doneness is confirmed via a cleaver-shaped trinket inserted into each steak as it emerges from the broiler. Enhancements available for an additional cost include a crab cake, scallops, shrimp, and shaved black truffle. Extending the a-la-carte approach, sauces such as chimichurri, bordelaise, bearnaise, or brandy green peppercorn can all be added for a few dollars more.

“Plated fare” is the label applied to those entrees that are not steak, and they’re worthwhile in their own right rather than being mere alternatives for those who prefer not to eat red meat. Branzino meunière is a pan-seared white fish accentuated with capers, lemon butter, and tiny tomatoes. Duck stroganoff blends poultry with al dente Sonoran pasta campanelle, mushrooms, and bordelaise sauce with toppings of frisée and a foie gras emulsion. The latter may seem decadent, but it adds a bit of smoothness to balance the salty and umami tastes of the dish.

Although Cleaverman is definitely at peak energy and occupancy at night, it does have a distinct lunch menu, which features not only a subset of what’s offered at dinner, but also some items unique to midday. These include steak frites, a cost-effective alternative to the usual steak and sides ordered a la carte with a six ounce flatiron and fries, a hearty fish and chips entree, and the restaurant’s version of an Italian beef sandwich. Purists may be annoyed by the inclusion of cheese, but with the restaurant’s prime rib in a roll with giardiniera and a side of au jus is sharp.

In terms of vegetables, one area for improvement might lie in letting them speak for themselves more. Brussels sprouts are nicely charred but almost overwhelmed by the smokiness of pork belly. Likewise, broccolini is well prepared but covered by more bearnaise sauce than needed. For those interested in greens, the lemon artichoke salad is a bright, refreshing alternative that mixes the tastes of arugula, lemon, and parmesan. Among the starchy sides, a unique item is the Yorkshire pudding, a timeless British treat seldom seen on contemporary American menus.

The desserts include a honey fig cheesecake, a trendy Dubai chocolate parfait, baba au rhum, and the BBC, a brown butter cookie in a skillet with a restrained sweetness that contrasts nicely with a parmesan popcorn gelato and pieces of popcorn on top. The full bar pours beer, wine, cocktails, and mocktails such as the Going Rouge, powered by blood orange and beets. While most of the Arizona Center’s space still awaits new tenants, the arrival of Cleaverman after more than three decades of Hooter’s is a welcome upgrade to the development’s front door. 

455 N. 3rd St., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://www.cleaverman.com

Sticklers

There are certain professions that might be seen as well-suited to sticklers, people known for their attention to detail. Architecture and the law are among them. No architect wants a building to collapse due to faulty design, and the judicial system is all about defining and interpreting rules, along with deciding consequences for those who violate them. It’s fitting then that a downtown Phoenix sandwich shop called Sticklers is located next door to the Phoenix Municipal Court and just downstairs from the Arizona chapter of the American Institute of Architects.

The building, named for its developer, J.W. Walker, is an historic structure sandwiched in between larger, newer government edifices. Its high ceilings and neo-classical revival style suggest a more exciting use for the space that would make it a destination. Unfortunately, the lack of a residential base in this part of downtown makes evening hours a dubious prospect right now. As a result, serving sandwiches and salads to jurors, attorneys, and civil servants from nearby buildings is probably the most productive use of the space under current circumstances.

Sticklers is just a few blocks west of the Downtown Phoenix Hub where the A and B lines intersect. The restaurant’s entrance faces Washington Street, where tracks intended to reach the Arizona State Capitol are embedded in the pavement as an unfortunate reminder of a project cancelled by a misguided majority of the Phoenix City Council who succumbed to pressure from anti-rail forces in the Arizona State Legislature. Bike racks are found on both sides of the courthouse entrance with more located across the street at Phoenix City Hall.

Sticklers can be a little confusing for a first-time visitor. There are big overhead signs indicating which way to turn for a sandwich or a salad. The key is to turn right just before passing under those signs, not after. After placing an initial order, customers then turn the corner to specify how they would like their sandwiches to be accessorized and to order additional items like chips, beverages, or ice cream. The food is always packaged to go, but there is plenty of room to eat on site both in the dining room and at two patios, one in front and the other to the side.

If the process sounds about as clear as mud, just follow the regulars to end up in the right place. The sandwiches at Sticklers are toasted with their meat and cheese ingredients placed upon butterflied white or whole wheat miniature baguettes. As they emerge warm and crisp, they’re dressed with whatever condiments the customer requests: lettuce, tomato, mustard, mayonnaise, Italian herbs, sliced pickles, oil, and hot peppers. The last item is the Sticklers version of giardiniera, the Italian-American condiment of pickled vegetables packed in oil.

The signature sandwich at Sticklers is the Traffic Jam, a four-meat combination of turkey, ham, salami, and roast beef. It’s a packed and filling creation, particularly when ordered in its full twelve-inch length. Simpler sandwiches with just one meat are of course available, and a meatball sandwich is accessorized with provolone and a slightly sweet marinara sauce. For vegetarians, there is a a simple vegetable sandwich, which seems virtually the same as the restaurant’s version of grilled cheese offered on a not-so-secret secret menu at the counter.

Additional “secret” items and specials have included pastrami, chicken sandwiches, chili cheese nachos, and quesadillas. All of the sandwiches are offered in half sizes appropriate for smaller appetites or as part of combination meals with salads or soups. A popular option on the menu is a half single meat sandwich with a cup of soup. A ground beef chili and a classic chicken noodle soup are always offered, and each day there’s a vegetarian soup as well. Among the meatless soups, recent choices have included a slightly spicy corn chowder and a mild broccoli cheddar.

Salads are fully customized creations reflecting each customer’s preferences, but they are assembled by staff behind a counter, not by the customer at a self-service salad bar. It’s an arrangement that requires some pointing at items stored behind a plastic barrier. Staff then put together either a small salad with up to five toppings or a large one with unlimited add-ons, including “crunchers,” ingredients such as sunflower seeds that add as much texture as flavor. Optional proteins that can be added include chicken breast, chicken salad, and tuna salad.

For dessert, Stickers offers some cookies and pastries on display at the counter. There’s also a separate station on the other side of the restaurant for ice cream, smoothies, shakes, and malts. Sticklers also functions as a place for breakfast, at least a continental one, with choices like bagels, pastries, oatmeal, and yogurt parfaits. As is often the case with restaurants operating only on weekdays with daytime hours, there’s no liquor license. Fountain sodas, bottled juices, and a selection of coffee, tea, and espresso drinks constitute the beverage selection.

While it may be frustrating to see the J.W. Walker building dark at nights and on weekends, there is reason to be happy it has survived at all given the spotty record of historic preservation in Phoenix. There may come a time when this space is lively after dark, but, for now, its current ground floor tenant, Sticklers, is a welcome choice for a quick lunch break during the workday or jury duty. Architects and attorneys can focus on the specialized details of their respective professions, but at this restaurant anyone can be a stickler about sandwiches, soup, and salads.

30 N. 3rd Ave., Phoenix AZ 85003
http://www.sticklersaz.com

CP Coffee and Patisserie

When two people become a couple and move in together, there are always decisions to be made about just how far to take their union. Are they getting married or merely cohabiting? Will they merge their finances or maintain separate accounts? The same can be true for businesses under the same roof. Two local favorites, Peixoto Coffee and Chacónne Patisserie, have recently moved in together on the ground floor of one of Arizona State University’s buildings in downtown Phoenix, creating a joint operation known sometimes as CP Coffee and Patisserie.

To be clear, the CP name is a convenient shorthand. Legally and financially, Peixoto and Chacónne remain two separate entities, sort of like a newly formed couple testing the waters by living together without sharing a bank account or filing taxes jointly. The two maintain separate signs outside their shared space at Fourth Street and Garfield, just five blocks from Roosevelt/Central station on the B Line. Because the building is a newly constructed academic research facility, there are abundant bike racks facing fourth street next to a patio dining area.

While the modernity of this particular ASU health sciences research building, which is officially known as ISTB8, might suggest sterility, the two food service tenants have created an atmosphere of warmth with both their products and their service. At each of the two counters, greetings are prompt and explanations as detailed as needed. That’s fortunate because each member of the duo offers an elevated and nuanced version of its particular specialties, whether single origin coffee and espresso drinks or buttery, flaky viennoiserie and crusty loaves of bread.

The Peixoto half of the operation comes to downtown Phoenix from Brazil via Chandler. In that suburb’s small but walkable core, Peixoto has been a presence for over a decade with its vertically integrated approach to coffee. By roasting beans from its own family farm in Brazil, as well as offering some other brews from elsewhere, Peixoto has pursued a sophisticated approach to coffee best first sampled through its pour-over experience, which allows the customer to benefit from meticulous preparation and to enjoy the beverage on its own terms.

From there, Peixoto uses its Familia roast as the basis for espresso drinks, including not only the usual classic lattes and cappuccinos, but also seasonal drinks with added flavors and flourishes. A fall butter pumpkin latte is restrained and balanced, with a little layer of sweetness in its top layer and a more mellow, creamy base below. Cold brew is available on its own or with accentuations such as cold foam and pistachio flavoring. Teas, including traditional black, green, and caffeine-free rooibos varieties, are brewed to order and can be served hot or iced.

While Peixoto provides the drinks, Chacónne Patisserie, a favorite at the Uptown Farmers Market with a retail bakery in southern Scottsdale, furnishes the food. That begins with all sorts of baked goods in the French viennoiserie tradition, including of course croissants and pain au chocolat. Original creations include cardamon cinnamon buns, a smaller and less messy alternative to the traditional cinnamon bun with just a hint of spice. A cream cheese tart has seasonal fillings, including a recent one with tart cranberries within its pastry enclosure.

On the savory side, Chacónne offers croissants with ham and cheese and tomato tarts, but it departs entirely from pastry with crusty loaves of bread that are well suited to sandwiches. In fact, in extending itself beyond snacks and dessert to serve as a place for a meal of sorts, the bakery offers pre-made sandwiches with fillings such as ham and cheese, tomato and cucumber, and smoked salmon. The last choice is particularly fulfilling with the slices of fish accessorized with cream cheese, onions, lemon oil, and fresh dill within a seeded baguette.

There are also toasts with toppings such as avocado, almond butter, and a spiced jam made with stone fruit. These combined with a hearty coffee or tea drink can serve either as a substantial snack or a light breakfast. Like a couple that enjoys a happy partnership while allowing both persons the space to be themselves, CP seems to be working as a harmonious marriage of coffee and pastry sanctioned by the university that hosts both within its research building. It’s not a full merger or marriage, but a healthy relationship that we could use more of.

821 N. 4th St., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://peixotocoffee.square.site
https://www.chaconnepatisserie.com

#avocadoToast #cappuccino #coffee #croissants #DowntownPhoenix #espresso #EvansChurchill #latte #pastry #quiche #sandwiches

New tiki bar opens in downtown Phoenix

From wild drinks to festive decor, a new spot in downtown Phoenix is guaranteed to give island vibes! Simone Cuccurrullo takes us inside Tropic Thunder. #tropicthunder #tikibar #downtownphoenix #phoenixtikibar #goodmorningarizona #gmaz #thingstodo #tikibarphoenix For more Local News from KPHO: For more YouTube Content:

https://fllics.com/en/video/new-tiki-bar-opens-in-downtown-phoenix/

Proof Bread

In making bread, proofing is sometimes a ritual and sometimes a requirement. With breads made with convenient fast acting yeast, proofing to ensure that the vital microorganisms are still alive is often a formality. With sourdough baking, proofing remains an essential step in ensuring adequate fermentation. Proof Bread, a local bakery with an emphasis on sourdough breads, incorporates the essential step of proofing into its name and is continuously expanding beyond its original base in Mesa to develop a presence throughout the Phoenix Metropolitan Area.

Proof has long been a favorite at farmers markets all over town, where its booths have sold different types of loaves and baguettes, along with the bakery’s signature English muffins and salted rosemary twists, for years. More recently, Proof has enhanced its retail presence, adding newer locations in downtown Phoenix and downtown Tempe to augment its longstanding presence on Main Street in downtown Mesa, The result is retail bakeries and small cafes conveniently situated in or near the historic urban centers of each of the three light rail cities.

The oldest of Proof’s stores, as well as its primary production bakery, is located in Mesa halfway between Country Club / Main and Center/Main stations on the A Line. In downtown Phoenix, Proof has a retail cafe and shop on the ground floor of the ECO PHX apartment building, three blocks west of Roosevelt/Central station on the B Line. In Tempe, Proof is found four blocks south of Mill Avenue / Third Street station on the A Line and directly along the route of the Tempe Streetcar. Bike racks are found within a block of all of Proof’s three urban locations.

These sites all serve two purposes. First, they’re retail storefronts offering the full range of the bakery’s output every day, not just once a week at farmers markets. The items available for purchase typically include the bakery’s classic sourdough bread and its khorasan variant. The latter has a slightly darker color and nuttier taste than typical sourdough. Other loaves may feature fruits and nuts or a basic sliced sandwich bread. Other baked goods for sale usually include classic baguettes and some viennoisserie such as croissants and pain au chocolat.

While it would be a stretch to think of any of Proof’s sites as a restaurant, they do serve a secondary role as cafes where one can enjoy a pastry, warmed if desired, with a cup of coffee or an espresso drink from Press. There are also a few bottled beverages, but no tea or alcohol. For something approaching a meal, it’s possible to have a savory ham and cheese croissant or piece of pizza. Proof’s pizza is made in small rectangular pies, guaranteeing an edge or corner piece every time. That’s welcome because Proof’s crust is the main attraction with this pizza.

Crisp along the edges, the sourdough is airy on its interior and provides a gentle taste to go with the tangy Bianco DiNapoli tomato sauce on top. It’s offered in three versions: margherita, pepperoni, and genevose, the last with pesto and some vegetables instead of the red sauce. A lunch special of a slice of any pizza is available with a drink and cookie for a reduced price. Given Proof’s modest origins as a home-based business, it is impressive how the bakery has grown under its current ownership, rising to impressive heights after a decade of fermentation.

301 W. Roosevelt St., Phoenix AZ 85003
699 S. Mill Ave., Tempe AZ 85281
125 W. Main St., Mesa AZ 85201
https://www.proofbread.com

#bakery #coffee #DowntownMesa #DowntownPhoenix #DowntownTempe #pastry #pizza #sourdough

Huarichis

Ever since the summer 2023 release of the movie Barbie, there seems to have been a renewed interest in the color pink, particularly Pantone 219 C, the vivid version associated with the doll and her world. Pinks of all sorts have become a more prominent design element in everything from water bottles to restaurant decor. Long before Barbie made it to the big screen, there was the notorious Pink Taco chain, which briefly operated an outpost in Scottsdale. A newer and far better pink Mexican restaurant of local origin, Huarichis, is now found in downtown Phoenix.

With a full name of “The Original Huarichis Taqueria,” the restaurant opened at the end of 2023, so it’s only natural to wonder if the color choice is coincidental or not. Regardless, Huarichis has not jumped mindlessly onto a pop culture bandwagon. Instead, it offers a casual but upgraded approach to Sonoran food in a slightly more accessible format than its renowned sibling, Bacanora. With reservations highly coveted over on Grand Avenue, Huarichis began as walk-in only. It has recently started accepting reservations while still remaining accessible without them.

Huarichis is found at the north end of Downtown on Central Avenue just a block south of the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. Bike racks are situated nearby outside places like Central Records and Snooze. The restaurant, which is open only for dinner during the week with midday service solely on weekends, has a vivid neon sign, bold color, and bright lighting, all of which make the place hard to overlook after sunset. A facade full of windows showcases the busy dining room, which usually fills quickly in the evening, and the open kitchen that lies behind it.

Customers sit at tables scattered throughout the room, at the bar in front of the kitchen, or at counters facing outwards towards Central Avenue. Although the restaurant is full service, paper napkins and metal cups are an indication of the casual feel that dominates here. The walls are covered with posters, paintings, and potted plants that add a bit of green to the pink and pastel aesthetics. The placemat-style menu with food on one side and cocktails on the other arrives soon after a party is seated, and service generally moves at a quick but unhurried pace after.

Defying the stereotype of Arizona-Sonoran restaurants, there is no complimentary basket of chips, but a trio of salsas is delivered to each table: a spicy chili de arbol, a roasted medium one, and a mild green salsa. Starters include a smooth frijoles dip served not with small chips, but instead big tostadas with a texture reminiscent of the papadum lentil wafers served in many Indian restaurants. Another parallel with Indian food is found in the quesadilla. With its rolled format, it could be called a quesadosa, but with stretchy cheese instead of potato masala inside.

Elote adheres fairly closely to a classic presentation with segments of corn on the cob slathered in a rich aioli and dusted with cheese and spice. The same spicy mayonnaise is part of what powers the shrimp ceviche. A light vegetable dish is the jicama salad. Despite being named for the Mexican root vegetable, there is as much emphasis on cucumbers and tomatoes as the jicama, resulting in something that comes across as a crisp and refreshing Mexican version of a Greek salad. The simplest starter is simply tortillas and butter, a good complement to the salsas.

Although Huarichis identifies as a taqueria, tacos are an important part of the menu but not necessarily the primary one. For a table of diners who can agree on a choice of meat, the platters are one way to enjoy a shared experience. Similar to the parrilladas found at many other Mexican restaurants, these are presented raised on a stand with steak ranchero, pollo asado, or carnitas at the center and beans, potatoes, tortillas, elote, and an entire roasted onion around the perimeter. Interestingly, the chicken and carnitas are available only in this format.

For those who do want tacos, the steak reappears in a smoky, charred, and chopped version as carne asada. There are also fillings of tripe, tongue, chicharron, and battered fish available, each with appropriate toppings to accessorize it. Vegetarian tacos include fried mushrooms and mashed potatoes in a hard shell. Most of these fillings are also offered in tortas, Mexican sandwiches, and on huaraches, oblong masa patties. Huaraches are named for a Mexican type of sandal due to their shape, and the restaurant’s name is also a play on the same word.

The kitchen offers two desserts, both of which take classic items and add inventive touches to them. The arroz con leche, normally a simple rice pudding, is unexpectedly complex with sweet, salty, and spicy pockets due to the presence of cookie crumble, olive oil, and honey. An ice cream sandwich combines the best of two local purveyors. A scoop of strawberry cheesecake ice cream from Novel is inserted into a split multi-colored concha pastry from La Purisma Bakery. With a bit of strawberry compote drizzled on top, it’s a colorful treat to end the meal.

Strawberry also figures prominently in the beverage menu with a strawberry mezcal margarita being one of the most popular cocktails. Unlike most strawberry margaritas that incorporate a sweet syrup, this drink relies on mezcal that has been infused with strawberries, resulting in an assertive, slightly spicy taste. The Magia has a Caribbean twist due to  rum topped with a blue foam from Curaçao. Unlike the strawberry drink, it’s not pink per se, but it adds to the pastel palette and the spectrum of flavors that any sophisticated Barbie or Ken should appreciate.

814 N. Central Ave., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://www.huarachis.com

#arrozConLeche #carneAsada #carnitas #cocktails #DowntownPhoenix #huaraches #Mexican #RooseveltRow #tacos #tortas

The historic Gold Spot building was one of the first shopping centers established in Phoenix when it was built in 1925, but it was far from the last. Now, strip malls are found on nearly every major corner in the vast metropolitan area that has grown around the city over the past century. Still, there is value in being among the first, and the building, which was nearly demolished decades ago, has now become one of the last standing of its generation. One restaurant in the Gold Spot, First & Last, has a name that evokes the contrast between the old and the new.

First & Last is found on Third Avenue, around the corner from fellow Gold Spot tenants Lola Coffee and Pita Jungle, and just three blocks west of the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. The protected two-way cycle track right outside the restaurant provides easy access via bike as long as the rider is careful to dodge occasional delivery and rideshare drivers who still haven’t figured out the intended purpose of bollards. Two bike racks are found along Third Avenue right outside the Gold Spot, and a larger one is found in the back of the building near the coffee house patio.

The restaurant is subtle, relying more on reputation than a strong visual appeal. Wording etched on the glass is the only overt indication of First & Last’s presence on Third Avenue, but when the weather cooperates, it’s common to see diners outside on the patio. The host station is found at the rear of the space, where staff can direct traffic not only within the restaurant itself, but also to the speakeasy-ish cocktail bar Little Debbie’s, which is located in the restaurant’s basement. First & Last has its own more prominent bar near the front of the dining room.

Above that bar is a mezzanine, which both expands the restaurant’s seating and helps to create an open, airy feel that may be surprising in light of the limited street presence of First & Last. Exposed ducts, high ceilings, potted plants, and hanging lanterns create an atmosphere that seems rooted in both a balmy Mediterranean coast and a major city urban center. An open kitchen buzzes with activity as they pass by on the way to and from tables. The staff create a sensation as they do the same while carrying some of the restaurant’s more dramatic output.

The visual appeal is particularly striking with Robb’s clams, an appetizer of bivalve mollusks served in a skillet with a sauce of fennel, white wine, herbs, butter, and chilies. Ample slices of toasted bread allow absorption of the flavors of the liquid in the pan. The clams are a consistent presence on the changing menu, as is the beet salad with walnut and spinach. Sicilian cauliflower has a satisfying char and a creamy polenta base. Back to seafood, a Dungeness crab arancini excels with flecks of crab interspersed with arborio rice and molten cheese.

If the theme seems Mediterranean, it is – to an extent. There’s certainly a large influence of Italian and Provencal cuisines, but there is also plenty of room for distinctly regional touches and American ingredients. The burrata, for example, starts with the familiar creamy cheese but replaces the more customary accompaniments of tomato and basil with the kitchen’s own creative flourishes of onion jam on top and pureed kabocha squash beneath. Abundant squares of focaccia soak up the flavors and allow this dish to be scooped and enjoyed as a hand food.

The Italian aspect of the menu is expressed with a selection of evolving pasta dishes that constitute about half the entrees at any given time. Bucatini all’amatriciana combines strands of hollow noodles with bits of guincale, red onion, pecorino, and a slightly spicy tomato sauce. A recent meatless manicotti dish turned out far lighter and brighter than one might typically expect due to the presence of copious amounts of Swiss chard within the rolled sheets of pasta. Classics like Bolognese and cacio e pepe are given their own unique interpretations here.

The other half of the entree menu focuses on meat and seafood selections. There is, not surprisingly, a steak that is consistently available, but the real excitement lies in a changing selection of fish and fowl. Plump Maine diver scallops are plated above an artichoke puree with shavings of fennel on top. Seared breast of Magret duck is served sliced and rare with a potato pancake and chestnuts seasoned with pancetta and a condiment called “good good sauce,” more like a chimichurri or chutney than the Jack in the Box item for which it is cheekily named.

A panna cotta dessert features seasonal fruit with two recent options being an intense blood orange and a more mellow poached pear. Both have been equally successful matches for the base’s supple custard texture. The restaurant’s other dessert choice is a tiramisu richly flavored with espresso, dark rum, lady fingers, cocoa, mascarpone, and orange. Playful cocktails include the Urban Sombrero, a smoky mezcal creation named for the hat featured in a classic Seinfeld episode, and the Flip Phone, rum with elements of apple, cinnamon, bergamot, and lemon.

There is also a thoughtful wine list with emphasis on French, Italian, and domestic labels, as well as a selection of draft beer featuring local craft brews. Since the restoration of the Gold Spot building, there have been several restaurants in this space, including a promising but short-lived wine bar and a pizzeria that closed before even holding its grand opening. With this history, First & Last isn’t the first place to exist here, and it may not be the last. Nevertheless, it is the best to date and the one most likely to stay around at least a while in an enduring building.

1001 N. 3rd Ave., Phoenix AZ 85003
https://www.firstandlastphx.com

https://phxrailfood.com/2024/02/16/first-last/

#arancini #burrata #clams #cocktails #crab #DowntownPhoenix #duck #pannaCotta #pasta #RooseveltRow #tiramisu