Sticklers

There are certain professions that might be seen as well-suited to sticklers, people known for their attention to detail. Architecture and the law are among them. No architect wants a building to collapse due to faulty design, and the judicial system is all about defining and interpreting rules, along with deciding consequences for those who violate them. It’s fitting then that a downtown Phoenix sandwich shop called Sticklers is located next door to the Phoenix Municipal Court and just downstairs from the Arizona chapter of the American Institute of Architects.

The building, named for its developer, J.W. Walker, is an historic structure sandwiched in between larger, newer government edifices. Its high ceilings and neo-classical revival style suggest a more exciting use for the space that would make it a destination. Unfortunately, the lack of a residential base in this part of downtown makes evening hours a dubious prospect right now. As a result, serving sandwiches and salads to jurors, attorneys, and civil servants from nearby buildings is probably the most productive use of the space under current circumstances.

Sticklers is just a few blocks west of the Downtown Phoenix Hub where the A and B lines intersect. The restaurant’s entrance faces Washington Street, where tracks intended to reach the Arizona State Capitol are embedded in the pavement as an unfortunate reminder of a project cancelled by a misguided majority of the Phoenix City Council who succumbed to pressure from anti-rail forces in the Arizona State Legislature. Bike racks are found on both sides of the courthouse entrance with more located across the street at Phoenix City Hall.

Sticklers can be a little confusing for a first-time visitor. There are big overhead signs indicating which way to turn for a sandwich or a salad. The key is to turn right just before passing under those signs, not after. After placing an initial order, customers then turn the corner to specify how they would like their sandwiches to be accessorized and to order additional items like chips, beverages, or ice cream. The food is always packaged to go, but there is plenty of room to eat on site both in the dining room and at two patios, one in front and the other to the side.

If the process sounds about as clear as mud, just follow the regulars to end up in the right place. The sandwiches at Sticklers are toasted with their meat and cheese ingredients placed upon butterflied white or whole wheat miniature baguettes. As they emerge warm and crisp, they’re dressed with whatever condiments the customer requests: lettuce, tomato, mustard, mayonnaise, Italian herbs, sliced pickles, oil, and hot peppers. The last item is the Sticklers version of giardiniera, the Italian-American condiment of pickled vegetables packed in oil.

The signature sandwich at Sticklers is the Traffic Jam, a four-meat combination of turkey, ham, salami, and roast beef. It’s a packed and filling creation, particularly when ordered in its full twelve-inch length. Simpler sandwiches with just one meat are of course available, and a meatball sandwich is accessorized with provolone and a slightly sweet marinara sauce. For vegetarians, there is a a simple vegetable sandwich, which seems virtually the same as the restaurant’s version of grilled cheese offered on a not-so-secret secret menu at the counter.

Additional “secret” items and specials have included pastrami, chicken sandwiches, chili cheese nachos, and quesadillas. All of the sandwiches are offered in half sizes appropriate for smaller appetites or as part of combination meals with salads or soups. A popular option on the menu is a half single meat sandwich with a cup of soup. A ground beef chili and a classic chicken noodle soup are always offered, and each day there’s a vegetarian soup as well. Among the meatless soups, recent choices have included a slightly spicy corn chowder and a mild broccoli cheddar.

Salads are fully customized creations reflecting each customer’s preferences, but they are assembled by staff behind a counter, not by the customer at a self-service salad bar. It’s an arrangement that requires some pointing at items stored behind a plastic barrier. Staff then put together either a small salad with up to five toppings or a large one with unlimited add-ons, including “crunchers,” ingredients such as sunflower seeds that add as much texture as flavor. Optional proteins that can be added include chicken breast, chicken salad, and tuna salad.

For dessert, Stickers offers some cookies and pastries on display at the counter. There’s also a separate station on the other side of the restaurant for ice cream, smoothies, shakes, and malts. Sticklers also functions as a place for breakfast, at least a continental one, with choices like bagels, pastries, oatmeal, and yogurt parfaits. As is often the case with restaurants operating only on weekdays with daytime hours, there’s no liquor license. Fountain sodas, bottled juices, and a selection of coffee, tea, and espresso drinks constitute the beverage selection.

While it may be frustrating to see the J.W. Walker building dark at nights and on weekends, there is reason to be happy it has survived at all given the spotty record of historic preservation in Phoenix. There may come a time when this space is lively after dark, but, for now, its current ground floor tenant, Sticklers, is a welcome choice for a quick lunch break during the workday or jury duty. Architects and attorneys can focus on the specialized details of their respective professions, but at this restaurant anyone can be a stickler about sandwiches, soup, and salads.

30 N. 3rd Ave., Phoenix AZ 85003
http://www.sticklersaz.com

CP Coffee and Patisserie

When two people become a couple and move in together, there are always decisions to be made about just how far to take their union. Are they getting married or merely cohabiting? Will they merge their finances or maintain separate accounts? The same can be true for businesses under the same roof. Two local favorites, Peixoto Coffee and Chacónne Patisserie, have recently moved in together on the ground floor of one of Arizona State University’s buildings in downtown Phoenix, creating a joint operation known sometimes as CP Coffee and Patisserie.

To be clear, the CP name is a convenient shorthand. Legally and financially, Peixoto and Chacónne remain two separate entities, sort of like a newly formed couple testing the waters by living together without sharing a bank account or filing taxes jointly. The two maintain separate signs outside their shared space at Fourth Street and Garfield, just five blocks from Roosevelt/Central station on the B Line. Because the building is a newly constructed academic research facility, there are abundant bike racks facing fourth street next to a patio dining area.

While the modernity of this particular ASU health sciences research building, which is officially known as ISTB8, might suggest sterility, the two food service tenants have created an atmosphere of warmth with both their products and their service. At each of the two counters, greetings are prompt and explanations as detailed as needed. That’s fortunate because each member of the duo offers an elevated and nuanced version of its particular specialties, whether single origin coffee and espresso drinks or buttery, flaky viennoiserie and crusty loaves of bread.

The Peixoto half of the operation comes to downtown Phoenix from Brazil via Chandler. In that suburb’s small but walkable core, Peixoto has been a presence for over a decade with its vertically integrated approach to coffee. By roasting beans from its own family farm in Brazil, as well as offering some other brews from elsewhere, Peixoto has pursued a sophisticated approach to coffee best first sampled through its pour-over experience, which allows the customer to benefit from meticulous preparation and to enjoy the beverage on its own terms.

From there, Peixoto uses its Familia roast as the basis for espresso drinks, including not only the usual classic lattes and cappuccinos, but also seasonal drinks with added flavors and flourishes. A fall butter pumpkin latte is restrained and balanced, with a little layer of sweetness in its top layer and a more mellow, creamy base below. Cold brew is available on its own or with accentuations such as cold foam and pistachio flavoring. Teas, including traditional black, green, and caffeine-free rooibos varieties, are brewed to order and can be served hot or iced.

While Peixoto provides the drinks, Chacónne Patisserie, a favorite at the Uptown Farmers Market with a retail bakery in southern Scottsdale, furnishes the food. That begins with all sorts of baked goods in the French viennoiserie tradition, including of course croissants and pain au chocolat. Original creations include cardamon cinnamon buns, a smaller and less messy alternative to the traditional cinnamon bun with just a hint of spice. A cream cheese tart has seasonal fillings, including a recent one with tart cranberries within its pastry enclosure.

On the savory side, Chacónne offers croissants with ham and cheese and tomato tarts, but it departs entirely from pastry with crusty loaves of bread that are well suited to sandwiches. In fact, in extending itself beyond snacks and dessert to serve as a place for a meal of sorts, the bakery offers pre-made sandwiches with fillings such as ham and cheese, tomato and cucumber, and smoked salmon. The last choice is particularly fulfilling with the slices of fish accessorized with cream cheese, onions, lemon oil, and fresh dill within a seeded baguette.

There are also toasts with toppings such as avocado, almond butter, and a spiced jam made with stone fruit. These combined with a hearty coffee or tea drink can serve either as a substantial snack or a light breakfast. Like a couple that enjoys a happy partnership while allowing both persons the space to be themselves, CP seems to be working as a harmonious marriage of coffee and pastry sanctioned by the university that hosts both within its research building. It’s not a full merger or marriage, but a healthy relationship that we could use more of.

821 N. 4th St., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://peixotocoffee.square.site
https://www.chaconnepatisserie.com

#avocadoToast #cappuccino #coffee #croissants #DowntownPhoenix #espresso #EvansChurchill #latte #pastry #quiche #sandwiches

New tiki bar opens in downtown Phoenix

From wild drinks to festive decor, a new spot in downtown Phoenix is guaranteed to give island vibes! Simone Cuccurrullo takes us inside Tropic Thunder. #tropicthunder #tikibar #downtownphoenix #phoenixtikibar #goodmorningarizona #gmaz #thingstodo #tikibarphoenix For more Local News from KPHO: For more YouTube Content:

https://fllics.com/en/video/new-tiki-bar-opens-in-downtown-phoenix/

Proof Bread

In making bread, proofing is sometimes a ritual and sometimes a requirement. With breads made with convenient fast acting yeast, proofing to ensure that the vital microorganisms are still alive is often a formality. With sourdough baking, proofing remains an essential step in ensuring adequate fermentation. Proof Bread, a local bakery with an emphasis on sourdough breads, incorporates the essential step of proofing into its name and is continuously expanding beyond its original base in Mesa to develop a presence throughout the Phoenix Metropolitan Area.

Proof has long been a favorite at farmers markets all over town, where its booths have sold different types of loaves and baguettes, along with the bakery’s signature English muffins and salted rosemary twists, for years. More recently, Proof has enhanced its retail presence, adding newer locations in downtown Phoenix and downtown Tempe to augment its longstanding presence on Main Street in downtown Mesa, The result is retail bakeries and small cafes conveniently situated in or near the historic urban centers of each of the three light rail cities.

The oldest of Proof’s stores, as well as its primary production bakery, is located in Mesa halfway between Country Club / Main and Center/Main stations on the A Line. In downtown Phoenix, Proof has a retail cafe and shop on the ground floor of the ECO PHX apartment building, three blocks west of Roosevelt/Central station on the B Line. In Tempe, Proof is found four blocks south of Mill Avenue / Third Street station on the A Line and directly along the route of the Tempe Streetcar. Bike racks are found within a block of all of Proof’s three urban locations.

These sites all serve two purposes. First, they’re retail storefronts offering the full range of the bakery’s output every day, not just once a week at farmers markets. The items available for purchase typically include the bakery’s classic sourdough bread and its khorasan variant. The latter has a slightly darker color and nuttier taste than typical sourdough. Other loaves may feature fruits and nuts or a basic sliced sandwich bread. Other baked goods for sale usually include classic baguettes and some viennoisserie such as croissants and pain au chocolat.

While it would be a stretch to think of any of Proof’s sites as a restaurant, they do serve a secondary role as cafes where one can enjoy a pastry, warmed if desired, with a cup of coffee or an espresso drink from Press. There are also a few bottled beverages, but no tea or alcohol. For something approaching a meal, it’s possible to have a savory ham and cheese croissant or piece of pizza. Proof’s pizza is made in small rectangular pies, guaranteeing an edge or corner piece every time. That’s welcome because Proof’s crust is the main attraction with this pizza.

Crisp along the edges, the sourdough is airy on its interior and provides a gentle taste to go with the tangy Bianco DiNapoli tomato sauce on top. It’s offered in three versions: margherita, pepperoni, and genevose, the last with pesto and some vegetables instead of the red sauce. A lunch special of a slice of any pizza is available with a drink and cookie for a reduced price. Given Proof’s modest origins as a home-based business, it is impressive how the bakery has grown under its current ownership, rising to impressive heights after a decade of fermentation.

301 W. Roosevelt St., Phoenix AZ 85003
699 S. Mill Ave., Tempe AZ 85281
125 W. Main St., Mesa AZ 85201
https://www.proofbread.com

#bakery #coffee #DowntownMesa #DowntownPhoenix #DowntownTempe #pastry #pizza #sourdough

Huarichis

Ever since the summer 2023 release of the movie Barbie, there seems to have been a renewed interest in the color pink, particularly Pantone 219 C, the vivid version associated with the doll and her world. Pinks of all sorts have become a more prominent design element in everything from water bottles to restaurant decor. Long before Barbie made it to the big screen, there was the notorious Pink Taco chain, which briefly operated an outpost in Scottsdale. A newer and far better pink Mexican restaurant of local origin, Huarichis, is now found in downtown Phoenix.

With a full name of “The Original Huarichis Taqueria,” the restaurant opened at the end of 2023, so it’s only natural to wonder if the color choice is coincidental or not. Regardless, Huarichis has not jumped mindlessly onto a pop culture bandwagon. Instead, it offers a casual but upgraded approach to Sonoran food in a slightly more accessible format than its renowned sibling, Bacanora. With reservations highly coveted over on Grand Avenue, Huarichis began as walk-in only. It has recently started accepting reservations while still remaining accessible without them.

Huarichis is found at the north end of Downtown on Central Avenue just a block south of the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. Bike racks are situated nearby outside places like Central Records and Snooze. The restaurant, which is open only for dinner during the week with midday service solely on weekends, has a vivid neon sign, bold color, and bright lighting, all of which make the place hard to overlook after sunset. A facade full of windows showcases the busy dining room, which usually fills quickly in the evening, and the open kitchen that lies behind it.

Customers sit at tables scattered throughout the room, at the bar in front of the kitchen, or at counters facing outwards towards Central Avenue. Although the restaurant is full service, paper napkins and metal cups are an indication of the casual feel that dominates here. The walls are covered with posters, paintings, and potted plants that add a bit of green to the pink and pastel aesthetics. The placemat-style menu with food on one side and cocktails on the other arrives soon after a party is seated, and service generally moves at a quick but unhurried pace after.

Defying the stereotype of Arizona-Sonoran restaurants, there is no complimentary basket of chips, but a trio of salsas is delivered to each table: a spicy chili de arbol, a roasted medium one, and a mild green salsa. Starters include a smooth frijoles dip served not with small chips, but instead big tostadas with a texture reminiscent of the papadum lentil wafers served in many Indian restaurants. Another parallel with Indian food is found in the quesadilla. With its rolled format, it could be called a quesadosa, but with stretchy cheese instead of potato masala inside.

Elote adheres fairly closely to a classic presentation with segments of corn on the cob slathered in a rich aioli and dusted with cheese and spice. The same spicy mayonnaise is part of what powers the shrimp ceviche. A light vegetable dish is the jicama salad. Despite being named for the Mexican root vegetable, there is as much emphasis on cucumbers and tomatoes as the jicama, resulting in something that comes across as a crisp and refreshing Mexican version of a Greek salad. The simplest starter is simply tortillas and butter, a good complement to the salsas.

Although Huarichis identifies as a taqueria, tacos are an important part of the menu but not necessarily the primary one. For a table of diners who can agree on a choice of meat, the platters are one way to enjoy a shared experience. Similar to the parrilladas found at many other Mexican restaurants, these are presented raised on a stand with steak ranchero, pollo asado, or carnitas at the center and beans, potatoes, tortillas, elote, and an entire roasted onion around the perimeter. Interestingly, the chicken and carnitas are available only in this format.

For those who do want tacos, the steak reappears in a smoky, charred, and chopped version as carne asada. There are also fillings of tripe, tongue, chicharron, and battered fish available, each with appropriate toppings to accessorize it. Vegetarian tacos include fried mushrooms and mashed potatoes in a hard shell. Most of these fillings are also offered in tortas, Mexican sandwiches, and on huaraches, oblong masa patties. Huaraches are named for a Mexican type of sandal due to their shape, and the restaurant’s name is also a play on the same word.

The kitchen offers two desserts, both of which take classic items and add inventive touches to them. The arroz con leche, normally a simple rice pudding, is unexpectedly complex with sweet, salty, and spicy pockets due to the presence of cookie crumble, olive oil, and honey. An ice cream sandwich combines the best of two local purveyors. A scoop of strawberry cheesecake ice cream from Novel is inserted into a split multi-colored concha pastry from La Purisma Bakery. With a bit of strawberry compote drizzled on top, it’s a colorful treat to end the meal.

Strawberry also figures prominently in the beverage menu with a strawberry mezcal margarita being one of the most popular cocktails. Unlike most strawberry margaritas that incorporate a sweet syrup, this drink relies on mezcal that has been infused with strawberries, resulting in an assertive, slightly spicy taste. The Magia has a Caribbean twist due to  rum topped with a blue foam from Curaçao. Unlike the strawberry drink, it’s not pink per se, but it adds to the pastel palette and the spectrum of flavors that any sophisticated Barbie or Ken should appreciate.

814 N. Central Ave., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://www.huarachis.com

#arrozConLeche #carneAsada #carnitas #cocktails #DowntownPhoenix #huaraches #Mexican #RooseveltRow #tacos #tortas

The historic Gold Spot building was one of the first shopping centers established in Phoenix when it was built in 1925, but it was far from the last. Now, strip malls are found on nearly every major corner in the vast metropolitan area that has grown around the city over the past century. Still, there is value in being among the first, and the building, which was nearly demolished decades ago, has now become one of the last standing of its generation. One restaurant in the Gold Spot, First & Last, has a name that evokes the contrast between the old and the new.

First & Last is found on Third Avenue, around the corner from fellow Gold Spot tenants Lola Coffee and Pita Jungle, and just three blocks west of the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. The protected two-way cycle track right outside the restaurant provides easy access via bike as long as the rider is careful to dodge occasional delivery and rideshare drivers who still haven’t figured out the intended purpose of bollards. Two bike racks are found along Third Avenue right outside the Gold Spot, and a larger one is found in the back of the building near the coffee house patio.

The restaurant is subtle, relying more on reputation than a strong visual appeal. Wording etched on the glass is the only overt indication of First & Last’s presence on Third Avenue, but when the weather cooperates, it’s common to see diners outside on the patio. The host station is found at the rear of the space, where staff can direct traffic not only within the restaurant itself, but also to the speakeasy-ish cocktail bar Little Debbie’s, which is located in the restaurant’s basement. First & Last has its own more prominent bar near the front of the dining room.

Above that bar is a mezzanine, which both expands the restaurant’s seating and helps to create an open, airy feel that may be surprising in light of the limited street presence of First & Last. Exposed ducts, high ceilings, potted plants, and hanging lanterns create an atmosphere that seems rooted in both a balmy Mediterranean coast and a major city urban center. An open kitchen buzzes with activity as they pass by on the way to and from tables. The staff create a sensation as they do the same while carrying some of the restaurant’s more dramatic output.

The visual appeal is particularly striking with Robb’s clams, an appetizer of bivalve mollusks served in a skillet with a sauce of fennel, white wine, herbs, butter, and chilies. Ample slices of toasted bread allow absorption of the flavors of the liquid in the pan. The clams are a consistent presence on the changing menu, as is the beet salad with walnut and spinach. Sicilian cauliflower has a satisfying char and a creamy polenta base. Back to seafood, a Dungeness crab arancini excels with flecks of crab interspersed with arborio rice and molten cheese.

If the theme seems Mediterranean, it is – to an extent. There’s certainly a large influence of Italian and Provencal cuisines, but there is also plenty of room for distinctly regional touches and American ingredients. The burrata, for example, starts with the familiar creamy cheese but replaces the more customary accompaniments of tomato and basil with the kitchen’s own creative flourishes of onion jam on top and pureed kabocha squash beneath. Abundant squares of focaccia soak up the flavors and allow this dish to be scooped and enjoyed as a hand food.

The Italian aspect of the menu is expressed with a selection of evolving pasta dishes that constitute about half the entrees at any given time. Bucatini all’amatriciana combines strands of hollow noodles with bits of guincale, red onion, pecorino, and a slightly spicy tomato sauce. A recent meatless manicotti dish turned out far lighter and brighter than one might typically expect due to the presence of copious amounts of Swiss chard within the rolled sheets of pasta. Classics like Bolognese and cacio e pepe are given their own unique interpretations here.

The other half of the entree menu focuses on meat and seafood selections. There is, not surprisingly, a steak that is consistently available, but the real excitement lies in a changing selection of fish and fowl. Plump Maine diver scallops are plated above an artichoke puree with shavings of fennel on top. Seared breast of Magret duck is served sliced and rare with a potato pancake and chestnuts seasoned with pancetta and a condiment called “good good sauce,” more like a chimichurri or chutney than the Jack in the Box item for which it is cheekily named.

A panna cotta dessert features seasonal fruit with two recent options being an intense blood orange and a more mellow poached pear. Both have been equally successful matches for the base’s supple custard texture. The restaurant’s other dessert choice is a tiramisu richly flavored with espresso, dark rum, lady fingers, cocoa, mascarpone, and orange. Playful cocktails include the Urban Sombrero, a smoky mezcal creation named for the hat featured in a classic Seinfeld episode, and the Flip Phone, rum with elements of apple, cinnamon, bergamot, and lemon.

There is also a thoughtful wine list with emphasis on French, Italian, and domestic labels, as well as a selection of draft beer featuring local craft brews. Since the restoration of the Gold Spot building, there have been several restaurants in this space, including a promising but short-lived wine bar and a pizzeria that closed before even holding its grand opening. With this history, First & Last isn’t the first place to exist here, and it may not be the last. Nevertheless, it is the best to date and the one most likely to stay around at least a while in an enduring building.

1001 N. 3rd Ave., Phoenix AZ 85003
https://www.firstandlastphx.com

https://phxrailfood.com/2024/02/16/first-last/

#arancini #burrata #clams #cocktails #crab #DowntownPhoenix #duck #pannaCotta #pasta #RooseveltRow #tiramisu