Sticklers

There are certain professions that might be seen as well-suited to sticklers, people known for their attention to detail. Architecture and the law are among them. No architect wants a building to collapse due to faulty design, and the judicial system is all about defining and interpreting rules, along with deciding consequences for those who violate them. It’s fitting then that a downtown Phoenix sandwich shop called Sticklers is located next door to the Phoenix Municipal Court and just downstairs from the Arizona chapter of the American Institute of Architects.

The building, named for its developer, J.W. Walker, is an historic structure sandwiched in between larger, newer government edifices. Its high ceilings and neo-classical revival style suggest a more exciting use for the space that would make it a destination. Unfortunately, the lack of a residential base in this part of downtown makes evening hours a dubious prospect right now. As a result, serving sandwiches and salads to jurors, attorneys, and civil servants from nearby buildings is probably the most productive use of the space under current circumstances.

Sticklers is just a few blocks west of the Downtown Phoenix Hub where the A and B lines intersect. The restaurant’s entrance faces Washington Street, where tracks intended to reach the Arizona State Capitol are embedded in the pavement as an unfortunate reminder of a project cancelled by a misguided majority of the Phoenix City Council who succumbed to pressure from anti-rail forces in the Arizona State Legislature. Bike racks are found on both sides of the courthouse entrance with more located across the street at Phoenix City Hall.

Sticklers can be a little confusing for a first-time visitor. There are big overhead signs indicating which way to turn for a sandwich or a salad. The key is to turn right just before passing under those signs, not after. After placing an initial order, customers then turn the corner to specify how they would like their sandwiches to be accessorized and to order additional items like chips, beverages, or ice cream. The food is always packaged to go, but there is plenty of room to eat on site both in the dining room and at two patios, one in front and the other to the side.

If the process sounds about as clear as mud, just follow the regulars to end up in the right place. The sandwiches at Sticklers are toasted with their meat and cheese ingredients placed upon butterflied white or whole wheat miniature baguettes. As they emerge warm and crisp, they’re dressed with whatever condiments the customer requests: lettuce, tomato, mustard, mayonnaise, Italian herbs, sliced pickles, oil, and hot peppers. The last item is the Sticklers version of giardiniera, the Italian-American condiment of pickled vegetables packed in oil.

The signature sandwich at Sticklers is the Traffic Jam, a four-meat combination of turkey, ham, salami, and roast beef. It’s a packed and filling creation, particularly when ordered in its full twelve-inch length. Simpler sandwiches with just one meat are of course available, and a meatball sandwich is accessorized with provolone and a slightly sweet marinara sauce. For vegetarians, there is a a simple vegetable sandwich, which seems virtually the same as the restaurant’s version of grilled cheese offered on a not-so-secret secret menu at the counter.

Additional “secret” items and specials have included pastrami, chicken sandwiches, chili cheese nachos, and quesadillas. All of the sandwiches are offered in half sizes appropriate for smaller appetites or as part of combination meals with salads or soups. A popular option on the menu is a half single meat sandwich with a cup of soup. A ground beef chili and a classic chicken noodle soup are always offered, and each day there’s a vegetarian soup as well. Among the meatless soups, recent choices have included a slightly spicy corn chowder and a mild broccoli cheddar.

Salads are fully customized creations reflecting each customer’s preferences, but they are assembled by staff behind a counter, not by the customer at a self-service salad bar. It’s an arrangement that requires some pointing at items stored behind a plastic barrier. Staff then put together either a small salad with up to five toppings or a large one with unlimited add-ons, including “crunchers,” ingredients such as sunflower seeds that add as much texture as flavor. Optional proteins that can be added include chicken breast, chicken salad, and tuna salad.

For dessert, Stickers offers some cookies and pastries on display at the counter. There’s also a separate station on the other side of the restaurant for ice cream, smoothies, shakes, and malts. Sticklers also functions as a place for breakfast, at least a continental one, with choices like bagels, pastries, oatmeal, and yogurt parfaits. As is often the case with restaurants operating only on weekdays with daytime hours, there’s no liquor license. Fountain sodas, bottled juices, and a selection of coffee, tea, and espresso drinks constitute the beverage selection.

While it may be frustrating to see the J.W. Walker building dark at nights and on weekends, there is reason to be happy it has survived at all given the spotty record of historic preservation in Phoenix. There may come a time when this space is lively after dark, but, for now, its current ground floor tenant, Sticklers, is a welcome choice for a quick lunch break during the workday or jury duty. Architects and attorneys can focus on the specialized details of their respective professions, but at this restaurant anyone can be a stickler about sandwiches, soup, and salads.

30 N. 3rd Ave., Phoenix AZ 85003
http://www.sticklersaz.com

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