Lightning!!

This is a result of the different rates of shrinkage along the warp and the weft of the denim. The pocket facing on this pair is laid out with the warp running horizontally, while the watch pocket has the weft running horizontally. The warp shrinks more than the weft, and so the watch pocket is pulled inwards, creating the lightning effect.

(This is why you won't see the lightning effect on watch pockets that have selvedge along the top edge!)

#selfmadejeans #selvedgedenim #watchpocket #lightning #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
The watch pocket, which will be almost entirely hidden between the two layers of fabric and behind the pocket flap.

#homemadejeans #selfmadereplica #1879 #jonespatent #brownduck #waistoveralls #watchpocket #forover30years #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

1950s Walker's Round Up Rider Pants
Moving on to some of the more interesting details on this pair, starting with the watch pocket. It has a rivet on the outer corner, but not on the inner corner. Perhaps the inner corner was intended to be hidden under the front pocket?
The rivets, by the way, are copper-plated steel.
The lack of a rivet on the inner corner reveals the characteristic old method of "back-tacking", a remnant from a time when sewing machines had no reverse yet.

#vintagedenim #vintagejeans #realvintage #walkers #roundupriderpants #tapatco #kingcot #watchpocket #backtacking #1950s

1930s Snag Proof buckle back jeans
The watch pocket is attached to the pocket bag and facing with only a single row of stitches, but is thoroughly reinforced with a rivet on both sides.

#vintagejeans #vintagedenim #realvintage #1930s #snagproof #bucklebackjeans #watchpocket #uforivets

1890s waist overalls
Curved watch pocket and characteristic stitching on the front pocket. I wonder if this was purely decorative or if it had any other purpose.

#1890s #waistoveralls #watchpocket #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1910s Eureka waist overall -- watch pocket
The watch pocket is quite deep and positioned close to the waist band, optimized for holding a pocket watch. The inside stitch line has curved corners. The selvedge is used for the pocket opening to reduce bulk.

#madein2002 #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #watchpocket #pocketwatch #selvedgedenim #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1950s JC Penney’s Foremost (3)
A few more words about the watch pocket. From the outside it looks a lot like a Lee type watch pocket, but it actually is a Levi's type "home-plate" shaped pocket, positioned so that the inner corner is hidden by the front pocket. It is almost perfectly aligned with the inner edge of the pocket facing. Only the visible corner of the watch pocket is reinforced with a rivet, while the hidden one is left without any reinforcement. Lee jeans from this period had rivets on both the visible corner and the hidden corner, while the reinforcement on the hidden corner was replaced with bar tacks in later Lee models. It's a bit surprising that JC Penney’s had no reinforcement at all on the hidden corner, but maybe this is a detail that illustrates how store-brand jeans like these were more affordable alternatives to the "big three". Although maybe slightly inferior in terms of quality and strength, I love these kinds of details and try to incorporate them into the jeans I make.

#vintagedenim #vintagejeans #realvintage #jcpenney #penneys #foremost #watchpocket #rivet #eurekajeans

Making the front pockets. They are basically Wrangler-type pockets, but with some modifications.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #watchpocket #westernjeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Front pocket on a 60s store brand-type pair. The construction is different from usual and similar to that commonly used by Lee.

#rawdenim #selvedgedenim #watchpocket #handmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #selfmadejeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

I prefer the selvedge on the watch pocket to be tucked under without screaming for attention. Subtly visible only from the side.
#rawdenim #selvedgedenim #selvedge #watchpocket #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale