1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
Done! These were not easy, but a lot of fun to make. Haven't decided yet whether to wash and wear these or keep them as a kind of self-made deadstock.
Anyway, time now to focus on another exciting project ...

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1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
Attaching the waistband and linen patch. Almost there ...

#homemadejeans #selfmadereplica #1879 #jonespatent #brownduck #waistoveralls #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
Attaching the front and back panels.
This is always the moment of truth, when they become wearable pants, and it becomes clear whether they will fit or not.
For these, the outseams are done before the inseams. As the brown duck is quite rigid, it's a tough job "going through the tunnel" for the topstitching on the inseam!

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1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
Making the fly - part 2.

#homemadejeans #selfmadereplica #1879 #jonespatent #brownduck #waistoveralls #buttonfly #forover30years #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
Making the fly - part 1.
This construction makes full use of the double layer of fabric, hiding all unfinished edges in between the layers.

#homemadejeans #selfmadereplica #1879 #jonespatent #brownduck #waistoveralls #buttonfly #forover30years #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
Finishing the front pockets.

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1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
The watch pocket, which will be almost entirely hidden between the two layers of fabric and behind the pocket flap.

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1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
Attaching the cinch. My favorite step!

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1879 Jones patent brown duck waist overalls.
Closing up the back center seams.
The inside layer (which has a little yoke) is closed first with a plain spread seam with a 15-mm seam allowance. The outside layer is then closed with a plain seam with a 10-mm seam allowance, after trimming 10 mm off of the right panel. At this point, the two layers are closed but not yet attached to each other. Next, two rows of topstitching are sewn through all layers, securely attaching the inside and outside layers to each other. On the inside, the two rows of topstitching run along both sides of the plain seam, as can be seen in the last two pictures.
A very strong seam with very little bulk.

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