I spent half a day at home in Tokyo last weekend - a good opportunity to sort out the roles of denim I have lying around. There's dozens of different kinds that I've accumulated over the past 30 years, some of which I'd completely forgotten about. Here's some of the more unique ones ...

#selvedgedenim #lefthandtwilldenim #righthandtwilldenim #brokentwilldenim #eurekajeans #forover30years

Some details of two pairs of 1970s Wrangler-type western jeans I made a couple of years ago. I've been wearing one pair off and on, and I'm keeping the other pair new. I enjoy observing how the worn pair gradually changes compared with the raw pair.

#selfmadejeans #homemadejeans #selfmadedeadstock #rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

At our little denim reunion the other night, Kenji @Kenji also wore Eureka jeans and a Eureka jacket!
The jeans are made of very special broken twill denim that Kenji had custom made. I actually made these for myself about 3 years ago, but they shrunk far more than intended, and so I gave them to Kenji. He's been wearing them on a daily basis since, and they're showing some gorgeous fading.
The jacket is made of a black and red double sashiko cotton fabric. I made this as a (slightly early) celebration of his 60th birthday or "Kanreki", which is a big deal in Japan.
So happy to see him wearing both!

#selfmadejeans #homemadejeans
#brokentwilldenim #sashiko #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

The pair of early 1970s store-brand type jeans I started yesterday is done.
Broken twill denim, sewing thread, snap button and rivets all from @Kenji.

#selfmadejeans #homemadejeans #brokentwilldenim #storebrand #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

The yellow size tag is made of paper reinforced with cotton mesh fused to the back, and can easily be torn off. Ready for a first wash! The second pair I made I'll keep as a kind of self-made "new old stock", to be worn maybe 10 or 20 years from now.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #brokentwilldenim #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #selfmadenos #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

The finishing of the waistband ends can be done in a lot of different ways. For these I used a method in which the chainstitch is sewn beyond where the waistband will end, and the extra waistband is cut leaving a 15 mm margin, which is then tucked inside the end of the waistband, and closed with a black lockstitch. This method was used a lot by Wrangler and some store brands. The advantage is that the waistband can be sewn onto multiple jeans consecutively without interruption.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #westernjeans #eurekajeans #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #justahobby #notforsale

Full front and back views of a pair of 70s Wrangler-inspired store brand-style western jeans.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #westernjeans #handcraftedjeans #selfmadejeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Both pairs have been hemmed.
111-Z Eureka Western jeans. Made of non-selvedge sanforized broken twill denim.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #brokentwilldenim #handcraftedjeans #selfmadejeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Done! 111-Z Eureka Western jeans.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #westernjeans #handcraftedjeans #selfmadejeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Making the front pockets. They are basically Wrangler-type pockets, but with some modifications.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #watchpocket #westernjeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale