Some details on a pair of waist overalls set around 1905, just after the introduction of overlocking but before chainstitch machines were used, so the back and yoke seams were flat-felled.
The denim is a lightweight 2x1, perfect for summer.

#selfmadevintage #homemadejeans #waistoveralls #flatfelledseams #bucklebackjeans #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Two pairs of 1938 "Blue Buckles" waist overalls I made a couple of years ago.
Besides the vintage blue buckles, the distinguishing feature is the "X" bartacks on the inner corners of the back pockets to prevent scratching the furniture. The outer corners are riveted for added strength.

#selfmadedeadstock #selfmadevintage #selfmadejeans #waistoveralls #bucklebackjeans #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Some details on a pair of waist overalls I made in 1998, a quarter century ago!
The buckle is self-made, as I hadn't found any real vintage or replica buckles yet.
They've needed some repairs, but I still wear them every now and then.

#selfmadejeans #selfmadevintage #waistoveralls #bucklebackjeans #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Some details of a pair of mid-1910s waist overalls that I made last year.
This pair is set shortly after the introduction of chainstitch machines and the addition of belt loops, which are still made of a lighter weight denim.
The left-hand twill denim used for this pair is some of my favorite!

Buttons and rivets from @Kenji

#selfmadevintage #homemadejeans #1910s #waistoveralls #bucklebackjeans #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

The last several months have been too busy to do any sewing at all. I love my work, so I don't mind being super busy -- the only stress associated with that is having zero time to sew!
So, as I haven't made anything new for a while, here's a pair I made a long long time ago. All single-needle construction with flat-felled seams.

#selfmadejeans #homemadejeans #bucklebackjeans #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Making of "Project Wo" 1870s brown duck pants (1)

Ricci (denim_seeker on Instagram) and I recently collaborated on the reproduction of 1870s brown duck pants, based on an original piece owned by Ricci.
The pants feature pocket reinforcement according to Cheang Quan Wo's patented method, as rivets could not be used because Levi's had patented their use.
The construction of these pants is surprisingly simple, but it took some detective work and educated guessing to figure out all the details, as Ricci's original piece is incomplete.
It also took a lot of searching to source the right materials, from the vintage type brown duck, with its characteristic "blue line", the linen for the pocket bags and orange cotton thread, to the new-old-stock vintage buttons and buckle.
If you're familiar with the way jeans are constructed, you may notice some unusual pieces, like the crotch gusset, which was common around this time but is rarely seen in later jeans.

#cheangquanwo #1870s #bucklebackjeans #brownduck #chineseminers #denimseeker #handcraftedjeans #eurekajeans #eureka #justahobby #notforsale

1910s-type waist overalls
Some detail pics.

#selvedgedenim #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #bucklebackjeans #waistoveralls #forover30years #eurekajeans #eureka #justahobby #notforsale

1910s type waist overalls
Attaching the waistband. Almost done!

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #1910s #waistoveralls #bucklebackjeans #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1910s type waist overalls
Attaching the cinch is one of my favorite steps.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #cinch #bucklebackjeans #1910s #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Made good progress today on these three pairs of 1910s-style waist overalls.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #selvedgedenim #1910s #waistoveralls #bucklebackjeans #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale