Orr Pantaloon Overall project with Dean Hashimoto!

The fly construction.

For most jeans, the fly is installed before closing up the crotch seam, but for these pantaloons, the order is reversed. This is one thing I got wrong in the prototype I made some time ago.

As with all other parts of these pants, the fly area has a lot of hand sewing. The raw edges are overlocked by hand, the button holes are hand sewn, and the fly is attached to the front panel by hand in four places, which creates separate compartments for the button holes.

The iron buttons we're using on this pair are real vintage deadstock from the 1870s.

#selfmadereplica #homemadejeans #1870s #sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #collaboration #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Orr Pantaloon Overall project with Dean Hashimoto! Attaching the cinch straps and back pocket to complete the back panel. The pocket is a 6 1/4" by 6 1/4" square when raw, but will shrink to 5 3/4" in length by 6" in width after washing. It has a rectangular reinforcement on the upper left-hand corner, but not on the right-hand corner. #selfmadereplica #handcraftedjeans #1870s #sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #collaboration #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Orr Pantaloon Overall project with Dean Hashimoto!

It's taken forever, but I'm really happy to finally have time to make the final version of our reproduction of the original 1870s pantaloon overalls in Dean's collection. We started this project about a year ago!

I've revised the pattern based on a detailed comparison Dean did of the original and the prototype repro I made several months ago.

This final version will feature a very special denim. I only have enough for just one pair, so I can't make any mistakes!

#selfmadereplica #homemadejeans #1870s #sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #collaboration #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

As it's getting colder, I've been wearing the Riders jacket I made exactly 3 years ago. Time for a little comparison with the original 1950s Lee jacket I based this on.

#selfmadevintage #selfmadereplica #ridersjacket #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1870s Orr pantaloon overall project in collaboration with Dean Hashimoto.

Some of the more interesting details on these pantaloons are on the inside.
The first photo shows the seams on the original pair on the left and our reproduction on the right. It took a bit of detective work to figure out the exact construction of these seams!

The pants have been washed and measured, and are ready to be sent off to Dean for comparison with the original pair.

#selfmadereplica #homemadejeans #1870s #sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1870s Orr pantaloon overall project in collaboration with Dean Hashimoto.

The first pair is all done! Next, I'll take detailed measurements, wash them, and take the measurements again after shrinkage.
Then, I'll send them to Dean for comparison with the original 1870s pair so we can check what adjustments are needed for the second pair, which will be made out of a very special denim.

#selfmadereplica #homemadejeans #1870s #sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #lefthandtwill #buckleback #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1870s Orr pantaloon overall project in collaboration with Dean Hashimoto.

Completing the front panel. The buttons are nearly identical, and maybe even the exact same buttons as on the original pants. We were very lucky to be able to source a batch of these deadstock buttons!

#selfmadereplica #homemadejeans #1870s #sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #sewonbuttons #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1870s Orr pantaloon overall project in collaboration with Dean Hashimoto.

Working on the fly. The button holes are hand sewn, and all raw edges are overcast by hand.

#selfmadereplica #homemadejeans #1870s #sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #buttonfly #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1870s Orr pantaloon overall project in collaboration with Dean Hashimoto.

The characteristic front pockets with pocket bags made of the same denim. The raw edges are overlocked by hand.

The denim we're using for this first version is a roughly 10 oz kibata (not pre-shrunk) left-hand twill, which is quite hard to find. We're planning to also make a second version of even more special denim!

#selfmadereplica #homemadejeans #1870s #sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #frontpocket #lefthandtwill #eurekajeans #forover30years #notforsale

I am so happy to finally have time to work on the 1870s Orr pantaloon overall project in collaboration with Dean Hashimoto, who owns an original pair of these.
There are so many interesting details on these, like the handsewn overlocking, the buckle attached by hand, and the gathers at the waist in the back.

#selfmadereplica #homemadejeans #1870s #sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #collaboration #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale