Why Do #Maine #VegetableGardens Benefit From Cold-Hardy Varieties?

Cold-hardy vegetable varieties are not just a convenience in Maine – they are a foundational strategy for reliable, productive gardening. Maine’s coastal breezes, inland winters, and short, capricious growing season make plant selection a critical decision. Choosing varieties bred or selected for cold tolerance can extend harvest windows, stabilize yields, reduce losses, and simplify season-extension tactics. This article explains why cold-hardiness matters in Maine, how it affects different crops, and what practical steps gardeners can take to maximize success.

Excerpt:

"Examples: Cold-Hardy Crops and Varieties That Work in Maine

Different vegetables respond to cold in different ways. Here are practical examples with general guidance – always check local extension resources and seed catalogs for specific varieties tested for northern climates.

- Brassicas: Kale, collards, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and kohlrabi. Many kales (e.g., ‘Winterbor’, ‘Red Russian’) can tolerate light snow and multiple freezes. Brussels sprouts and cabbage often become sweeter after frost.
- Leafy greens: Spinach, arugula, mache, and winter lettuces. Spinach and mache are among the first greens to go in the ground and can survive early spring and late fall frosts.
- Root crops: Carrots, beets, parsnips, rutabagas, and turnips. Par-snips and rutabagas can remain in the ground under a mulch and be harvested in late winter.
- Alliums and bulbs: Garlic planted in the fall overwinters and produces robust bulbs the next year. Certain onion varieties are cold-hardy as sets.
- Peas: Early peas (sugar snap, shelling) tolerate cool soil and can be planted as soon as the soil is workable.
- Potatoes: Early varieties planted in cool soil will tolerate light frosts to foliage until tuber set; new potatoes are often harvested before fall freezes.

Bear in mind that tolerance varies by variety and local conditions. For example, some kales survive to -10degF when properly acclimated, while others are less hardy.

Season Extension Techniques That Complement Cold-Hardy Varieties

Cold-hardy varieties multiply the effectiveness of season-extension methods. Combining variety choice with modest infrastructure yields big returns.

- Row covers and low tunnels: Lightweight fabric raised over hoops provides 2-8degF of protection and can be used to extend harvests and harden transplants.
- Cold frames and cloches: Simple cold frames capture solar warmth and protect seedlings during cold snaps.
- Mulches and snow as insulation: Straw or leaf mulch protects overwintering roots and garlic. In some years snow acts as a natural insulator for winter-killed plants vs. exposed soil.
- Raised beds and black plastic: Raised beds warm earlier in spring; dark surfaces absorb heat and reduce frost risk in micro-sites.
- Succession planting and relay cropping: Using short-season, cold-hardy varieties in succession ensures continuous harvests despite weather variability."

Learn more:
https://cultivatingflora.com/why-do-maine-vegetable-gardens-benefit-from-cold-hardy-varieties/

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Beginner-Friendly #Vegetable and #Flower #Garden Plans

"We’ve put together a collection of free garden layouts and plans to make planning your garden easier—and a lot more fun. Created by our expert gardeners, these vegetable, flower, and mixed garden designs are easy to adapt to your space. You can fine-tune any plan using our Garden Planner. Check back for more plans over the season."

https://www.almanac.com/free-garden-layouts-plans-library

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More from the #UniversityOfGeorgiaCooperativeExtension - Home Garden #GreenBeans!

"Green beans are one of the most popular vegetables for the #HomeGarden. Fortunately, they are easy to grow as well. Green beans are a warm season crop that can be planted as soon as the danger of frost has passed in the spring. Green beans grow best when air temperatures range from 65°F to 85°F. Soil temperatures should be at least 55°F for good seed germination. Air temperatures above 85°F can cause flowers to drop and slow production.

Types of Beans

Green beans come in three different types based on their growing characteristics. Bush beans are compact varieties that grow in a bush form and need no external support. They are great for raised beds and gardens limited in space.

Pole beans are similar to bush beans but grow in a vining manner and require some type of cage or trellis system for support. Pole beans can reach heights of 6 feet or more, so the support system should be strong and high enough to accommodate them. An advantage of pole beans is that they are easier to harvest; you don?t have to bend over completely to pick them like you do bush beans.

Half-runner beans are a cross between pole beans and bush beans. Half-runners can be grown without support but they spread out more than bush beans and need plenty of room to grow.

Planting

Green beans grow best in a well-prepared and organically amended soil. They should receive six to eight hours or more of sunlight every day for optimum growth. Green beans can be directly seeded in the garden and do not need to be started as transplants. Soaking seeds overnight in warm water will help speed up the germination process after they are planted in the soil. Most green beans do best when planted about 1 inch deep and 6 inches apart in the rows with 3 feet between the rows. After planting, be sure to firm the seed bed with your hand, garden tool or cultipacker. This will help ensure good soil contact and better germination.

Fertilization

Green beans are legumes and don?t require a lot of fertilizer. Green beans prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of approximately 6.5. Soil test for a more accurate recommendation of lime and fertilizer needs. In the absence of a soil test, add 5 pounds of 5-10-15 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. Fertilizer should be applied at planting time and again after small beans begin to appear. Additional fertilizer can be applied throughout the growing season to keep beans producing until the summer heat takes its toll.

Watering

Irrigate beans immediately after planting. Keep the seed bed moist, but not soggy, for the first week until germination occurs. Reduce watering to once every three days after the first week. Water as needed after beans become established, usually about twice a week.

Harvesting

Green beans should be ready for harvest 45 to 60 days after planting, depending on the variety. Harvest beans while they are still immature and not fully developed. This will produce a bean that is tastier and tenderer. To encourage the plant to maintain production, continue to harvest beans as they become ready. Beans should be stored in a cool, dry location and kept fresh for several days, or they can be canned for long-term storage.

Problems

Although green beans are easy to grow, there are a few problems that can occur. Insect problems include leaf beetles, aphids and spider mites. Disease issues include #anthracnose, rust, powdery mildew and grey mold. Most of these problems can be prevented or controlled by using sound cultural practices and planting resistant varieties. Occasionally an insecticide or fungicide may be needed to control insects and disease problems."

Source:
https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1006

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So, I re-planted the garlic in the vegetable garden bed, and noticed that the remaining squash plant had a couple of garlic starts around it that I had missed. Interesting. I just put up some thorny barriers (old rose canes are the best, but I only had a couple of those -- the rest were blackberry and raspberry canes), so hopefully those measures (along with a light spray of neem) will keep the pests away. Keeping my remaining squash plants indoors until I see what happens in the garden...

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Hikurangi, Northland, 1982
gelatin silver print 329 x 304 mm - Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki, purchased 1997

#Hikurangi #Northland #304mm- #Tāmaki #Matapihi #Kōtuia #women #shovels #vegetablegardens #gardening #Photograph

http://api.digitalnz.org/records/1852192/source