amdThe start of the 
2.4 build. Frame is assembled and square.
My 5yo saw the purple filament and the black frame and said “How could you not name it Galaxy?”
🧵1/
A little more progress
I cleaned and lubed all the linear rails, installed the z rails, installed the deck, and built up a couple of the z drives.
I thought I was moving right along then…
🧵2/
When I went to print the b-side z drives I ran into heat creep.
I had a bunch of successful prints through this (kilos of ASA) and had already printed nine or so hours of ASA earlier in the day.
I’m running a Xol mod with a cutter and the PTFE lengths weren’t specified so I estimated.
But it looks like I shorted myself on my PTFE just a bit and it ended up sliding back 1.5mm, apparently enough to creep and stop things up.
Edit: on closer inspection it also looks like I used the wrong inner diameter PTFE… I’m surprised it worked as well as it did.
🧵3/
Made a little progress this evening after getting Bluey the Trident printing again following a toolhead rebuild.
Z drives and Clee’s Beefy Z Idlers are installed at all four corners.
Onto installing the bed next.
🧵4/
I now have a gantry with pin mods and beefy front idlers that is perilously suspended from zip ties, but it’s looking a bit more like an actual printer.
Need to string some Z belts and mount it to the rails.
I definitely had to reprint all the z belt clamps as I didn’t realize the mod parts also tweaked those parts.
Xol and a Sherpa Mini are being printed to stay one step ahead of assembly.
🧵5/
Added some z-belts to the gantry.
I did not match the z belts tooth for tooth like I did for the AB belts on my Trident. With QGL and the independent idler tensioning it didn’t seem necessary. Someone please let me know if I’m missing something.
I also am not in love with the GE5C mod mounts. There’s just a hint of vertical play. It seems to be from the bearing race in the printed part so I might reprint those with a little extra EM to snug them up; I can’t think of a reason why play there would be desirable.
Adding a pic of one corner in case anyone sees any obvious errors.
🧵6/
Alright. Fully belted, tensioned, and de-racked.
I also assembled my Vitalii3D MetalTap, it seems to work ok and have a much more solid hold than the chaotic labs v2 tap on my Trident. I’m curious to see the performance once I get this machine up and running.
🧵7/
Time to attach the toolhead board.
I am using the Fysetc H36 which has a nice high temperature rated chipset, fan tach pins, and variable fan voltages which makes it play super nice with a Xol toolhead.
It also comes with a pretty nice umbilical cable with an over molded connector.
I remixed a mount that @koz was working on and came up with this in #FreeCAD.
Seems to fit pretty well, clears everything, gives some strain relief to the soldered connector, and should keep the molded cable in place as there is no positive retention clip.
🧵8/
I really like the chamber heating advantages that bed fans have in my trident so for this build I want the same effect.
I’m going to try “The Filter” and see if it can offer me the same benefit along with replacing my nevermore/bento setups in the trident.
Going to skip the unusual magnet/pogo connector and just use something manual and standard instead. Maybe just a barrel jack.
🧵9/
The Filters wired, and bed installed. Pretty straight-forward stuff. Continuing to look more and more "printer-like"
As I'm skipping the magnetic pogo connector for The Filters, I'm also skipping the mount for the center filter and just have a couple bolts acting as backstops to prevent over-insertion.
🧵10/
Toolhead mounted.
I went with a fairly standard Xol setup.
- BOM Delta fan for the hot end.
- 24V 4010 for part cooling
- Rapido 2 HF hot end
- Sherpa mini extruder
- Fysetc H36 toolhead board
Mounted easily to the Vitalii TAP carriage, then a whole lot of crimping to get everything connected.
🧵11/
Rook@amd Whoa! Are you building your own 3d printer? Be careful with heated chambers, I hear installing them is super ultra dangerous and it could end badly.
@rooktallon this is more of a way to avoid needing a dedicated chamber heater
If you blow fans across the bed heater you can increase your chamber temps. Two small fans added under the bed of my other printer increased my temps by a good 5 or 8 degrees.
It’s not a lot but it’s enough to make printing ABS and ASA a lot easier.
@amd Wow, that's neat. I was thinking you were installing an actual heated chamber. Sorry for assuming but whatever you're doing sounds like fun. I'm having a hell of a time with the q1pro at the moment, we're trying to get some slotting screws off the main board so we can remove the EMMC module from it and flash it. Turns out a flat head driver will do the trick or at least that's what I've read on reddit. Would you happen to know?
@rooktallon I unfortunately don’t know. I’ve never looked much into the Qidi units.
Good luck!
Koz Ross