The fuel tank tub got stripped back to bare metal with a polycarbide disc. Then a coat of zinc etch primer and a coat of black.
1966 Ford Mustang Converted into a Tesla with Working 'Full Self-Driving'
https://electrek.co/2026/05/02/tesla-1966-mustang-ev-conversion-full-self-driving/
#HackerNews #FordMustang #TeslaConversion #EVConversion #FullSelfDriving #ClassicCars
Amazing how much space is freed up when the car bits are attached to the car and not strewn around the garage!
Did a quick test fit of the HV cables that'll run from the inverter to the motor of course. The long one goes to the near port and the short one goes to the far port - so they're sort of backward lengthwise, but there's plenty of length, so no worries really.
After some cutting/welding/grinding I ended up with this.
I was pretty happy with myself until I realised my mistake. The front mount is 'hard-mounted' but the other two are 'soft-mounted'. I.e., they're sitting on top of the rubber land rover engine mounts.
So, I'll have to re-do the front mount. It'll need to attach to the faceplate like the others. Ah well, it's only tacked together.
I got the M8 version of these threaded spacers (I used the M6 version in the battery box to space out the modules). I just needed to make arm to reach from the faceplate of the motor out to these spacers. There are three mountings in total. One on either side and one on the front.
Todays job was to mount the inverter. It will sit right above the front end of the motor. The DC input from the battery is on the 'back' and the AC output is on the 'front'. The coolant in/outlets are on either side.
Also did final measurements of the propshaft length (now that the position was locked in) to send off to the driveshaft shop to have a custom one made up. Needed to remove the flange from the diff and the rubber damper from the transmission output. Dropped them off so they could work to the exact parts.
Few bits n' bobs done on the car over the past week or so.
Sorted out the rear mounting for the motor. I got a rubber mat, cut out a couple of rectangles and used them as a damper. There's a metal plate on top that bolts up into the motor (cut out a little of the mat to make space for the bolt heads) and down through the mats and the crossmember to hold it all together.
I'll probably put another bit of matt on the underside and a bit of flat bar.
Cera
Christian
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