St. Maria in Lyskirchen: A treasure of medieval frescoes in Cologne

St. Maria in Lyskirchen is the smallest of Cologne’s twelve Romanesque churches but holds great historical and artistic significance. It is situated in the southern part of the city’s Altstadt district, right at the Rhine river bank. Built between 1198 and 1225, the church’s structure is that of a three-aisled basilica, closely modeled after St. Kunibert, one of Cologne’s larger Romanesque churches. What distinguishes St. Maria in Lyskirchen from the other Romanesque churches is the well-preserved medieval frescoes from the 13th century and the reverence of the Schiffermadonna (Sailor’s Madonna). The name ‘Lyskirchen’ likely originates from a nobleman named Lysolvus or Lisolfus, who founded the original church as a private chapel. Today, both the church and its adjacent buildings, including the sacristy and sexton’s house, are listed as protected monuments. In October 2024, I was able to visit the church. Here is a summary of my impressions and what I could find out about its historical background so far.