Hmm, softshell fabric not cheap... about $28.00 per yard. (if I were theoretically going to sew myself a new softshell jacket). #sewing
So, the problem with something like black or blue or green, is then it's not terribly obvious you've sewn yourself a jacket (because all the softshells out there are black or blue or green)., But purple or "tomato" are way off the usual scale of colors. Which means you've got to be willing to show off a bit, lol. (I have no problem with it--ie random strangers chatting with you because you have an outrageously loud outfit--but the family prefers to blend in and hide....)
Hmmm....
Looks like most jacket patterns are between 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 yards for my size. Given my sewing skill level, that means I really should by 3 yards, in case of a snafu. #sewing
Okay, decided to go for it... going to attempt at some point to sew myself a soft shell jacket. Starry Skies, lol. Space themed? Something like that. Bought way more than I need, 4 1/2 yards because it's a 9 inch repeating pattern and I don't know what the heck I am doing most of the time. Now I have to go buy zippers. (this of course will cost many times what buying a used one would cost). My goal is approximately the same as this North Face current model, which is the evolved version of the jacket I have here that I will attempt to clone. (minus the cell phone thingie on the shoulder). Full zip, two pockets with zippers. #sewing
Front zipper on existing jacket is 26 inches (nylon, large teeth). The two pockets are 7 inch zippers (small teeth, nylon). The existing jacket has a tiny front pocket, like the shown design with arm pocket, I think designed for a 1990's flip phone, lol. I don't think any of these pockets can handle a phone anymore nowadays, they are so big. I will not buy a zipper or plan on that pocket, I never used the existing one for 35 years, so.... #sewing #project #softshelljacket
Zippers (and ball point needles) ordered from Wawak, and also everything I see about this kind of fabric says "use clips not needles or you will leave marks", so bought some clips 🤷 I'm sure I have forgotten something important. Also wondering about the stretch now on this fabric and adjustments I'll have to make to the pattern, depending on stretch and thickness. (the jacket i have now is fairly stretchy, especially after so many years, and not very thick). TBD when the fabric arrives to decide. #sewing #softshelljacket
Fabric arrived. Bonus half a yard! 10-12% stretch based on pulling on it, so not zero percent. #sewing
Oooh, the OTHER direction has 30% stretch (in the direction of the bolt). Now, the question is which way needs to be up/down vs. left right (ie do you need more stretch the wide direction or the tall direction in a jacket?) #softshelljacket #sewing
Checked my existing jacket (which I want this one to replace), and it's the SAME stretch both ways! I accidentally bought a bigger zipper though, so now I have to figure out if I want the bulkier zipper or need to order a less bulky one. Does it matter? #sewing #softshelljacket

Plan:

1. Copy existing jacket pattern to tissue paper. Will use tracing paper...

2. Build a jacket using some scrap stretchy fabric of some sort (not the fancy stuff, not exact stretch, but hopefully close), minus zipper!

3. Check fit.

4. Adjust fit, deconstruct adjusted jacket.

5. Transfer adjusted jacket to pattern

6. Build jacket with new fancy softshell.

#sewing

Tracing wheel did not work, but because the seams on the jacket I am looking to clone are raised, and it is a black jacket, just traced over it by feel with a sharpie. I will need to add seam allowance outside the edges. #softshelljacket #sewing
Schematic view of the jacket design, sans arms. #sewing #softshelljacket

Getting the collar length is going to be a bit of a challenge.

And I think the bottom of the jacket probably should be a straight line... I think I flipped the wedge part. I will have to watch that.... I guess I can cut the jacket slightly long and adjust the bottom, however, as it needs to fold back over on itself.

#random #sewing #softshelljacket

Traced on similarly stretchy scrap material. #sewing #softshelljacket
Cut out, no arms. Do not have enough of this same material... will have to hunt for something else in the pile for the arms. #sewing #softshelljacket
Arm pattern. Suddenly, I realize a softshell jacket is just a fancy shirt with a zipper instead of buttons! #softshelljacket #sewing
Discovered rummaging around I had bought a brand new "parka zipper" which would also work on this at a garage sale, though it's 30 inches and I need 24 or 26 inches, I think. It has two zips, so you could theoretically unzip from the bottom (for ventilation?). I'd have to shorten the zipper. #softshelljacket #sewing

Someone's video on shortening a separating zipper.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTfh-ZCKv-Y

#softshelljacket #sewing

How to Shorten a Separating Zipper

YouTube
Uh oh.. sewing accident! This sewing project just became a woodworking/furniture restoration project. Support for one of the legs on the ($5) sewing stool just had a catastrophic failure. Easily fixed. #sewing
Fine quality cardboard furniture. #furniture
The other side is about to fail, too. #crappyfurniture #furniture
Fortunately, I have real wood here. It's green on the other side (kid's toy chest?) But almost perfect. #carpentry
I'd do this by hand, but I am busy to tonight so a quick chop saw effort. Better to use the drill press, but running out of time today. #carpentry #furniturerepair
The old screws are tiny. I forgot to countersink those holes. Swapped them out for bigger screws. ,#furniture
Nearest tool for this. Lol. (Crank Bros. Tool purchased on recommendation of #BikeNite). New furniture supports swapped in! Back to sewing... probably tomorrow. #sewing #furniture
Also glued and clamped some of the cardboard elsewhere. These will probably also have to be replaced. Anyway. Got the back part sewed before the chair collapsed. #sewing
Back to sewing. First time I have tried out these sewing clips. One bad thing, plastic. These will be long broken before the pins I have ever give up the ghost. #sewing
Preliminary fitting without strange triangle pieces, shoulders not yet sewn. Fits... shoulder okay. Will see how this works with wedges sewn in, then add arms. Also, collar needs to be done.. this is the prototype to check my pattern, not the end piece. #sewing #shoftshelljacket
One arm. Fabric difference though, the scrap there is Spandex and stretches more. Armpit are will need some on tbe fly adjustment, and shoulder alignment will have to be done carefully. #sewing #softshelljacket
Armpit underneath looks like a badly constructed tent, ha ha. On the final article, clear I will need to iron and then top stitch everything. Arm pattern is not quite perfect, but this is an area of traditional adjustment anyway. #sewing #softshelljacket
Okay, pretty clear I need more space to accomodate my midsection, lol. Even with stretch, I probably do need some more margin on the front panels... probably towards the rear as someone mentioned here, but maybe a bit more on the front edge to allow for folding over a seam width for the zipper. Arms work well, and length is good even with folded seam. #sewing #softshelljacket
Okay, slept on the problem. I think adding a triangle amount of material on tbe bottom piece will fix the expanded midsection issue. The only question is if the chest needs a slight bit more give too. Maybe a quarter inch, depending on how much room a zipper adds. #sewing #softshelljacket

@ai6yr open-lower-back wedge cut, tied with strings.

Go kink/medieval on that bitch.

@faraiwe LOL renaissance faire style softshell jacket

@ai6yr DOOOOOO EEEEEEEEEEET. You WANT IT.

Search your feelings. You know it to be true.

@faraiwe LOL. This prototype could be converted into a unique fashion statement by itself lol

@ai6yr ::stares::

WELL..... ???

@ai6yr BTW one of the weirdest but comfiest pieces of clothing I own is an odd combo/mix of rain shell and a short cloak. It has wide sleeves, a hood, and closes by buttons front of shoulder/collar bone, one of those turned inside (told you, weird)

It looks like something out of a new Star Wars movie set. I'd wear it more often, but I don't want to look TOO MUCH like a scifi movie extra, walking around.

@faraiwe LOL. I will probably convert the prototype into something similar. It's pretty comfortable. I'll need to figure out the collar. I'm now thinking I'll swap in bits of the cloud pattern I will be using on that front section instead of the cotton I used for sizing, especially since i have 5 yards (!) now of that material, and I think it will take a lot less than that for the final piece.

@ai6yr make the collar a reversible hood.

The fastening in front must be loop n peg. Bonus for the teeth or claws of whatever tried to kill you last.

@ai6yr this has the added bonus of advertising to all n sundry that you shouldn't be fucked with. ::squints::
@faraiwe Oooh, a hoodie! Haven't done one of those yet.
@ai6yr not so much a "hoodie" because that is kinda overdone to death by the Gen As,but a hood-hood, wide enough to go slightly over the shoulders,as if a shoulder guard.You flip it, instant rain cover. ta-da.

@faraiwe @ai6yr

Hoodie ... I made a hood for a knitted sweater and ended up with pointy hood, and regretted it. Fortunately it is red, not white, but still I wear it with the pointy part tucked in.

Next time, I would make it as a rectangular strip up the back of the neck and over top of head, and two other pieces, one on each side of head. More seaming, but fits and looks a lot better.

Original WWII Japanese Air Raid Shelter Cloth Helmet | #1859431996

This is an original WWII Japanese Air Raid shelter cloth helmet. It is made of a soft thick padded material to protect the head from falling debris. It is in excellent condition. (BB4) PLEASE READ Ove

Worthpoint
@EugestShirley @faraiwe Hmm, I'm thinking that is not helpful against shrapnel. Cool to make, though!
@ai6yr @EugestShirley ...padded kevlar? 🤔
@faraiwe @ai6yr
Kevlar wasn't invented until 1965.
During WWII the people rushing to air raid shelters were more concern with burning cinders and gases. A direct hit would kill you anyway.
This was a Japanese hood. My sources mainly were in the European combat theaters.
@ai6yr
I don't fit the same clothes as in 1996 either.

@EugestShirley My midsection is growing! 🤪

In 1996 I believe I weighed in the range of 165... I was extremely tall and skinny. I now am 195 to 200, lol.

@EugestShirley I can probably re-adjust this jacket and give myself another half an inch, I have large (very large) seams. That said, I will definitely add fabric on the pattern.
@ai6yr there are many, many things i appreciate about following your adventures and projects. and most of all, i appreciate seeing someone learn first hand.
@dank Thanks! That's what I enjoy most about projects. The learning... no matter how the projects come out, lol.
@ai6yr @dank
It looks like you've created a most excellent muslin/toile for your future jacket! Whenever you wear it, you can appreciate all of the learning that went into its creation.
#sewing
@ai6yr @dank I love watching people help with real-time information to you
@Archergal @dank I love the helpful community here!
@ai6yr since the collar matches so well, maybe consider ripping out the side seams and adding an extra panel there to give you the room?
@Catawu This morning, I think I can expand the bottom of the front panels in a triangle shape and fix this problem, lol.
@ai6yr Got enough across the shoulders and length in the back to cover when bent over biking?
@AMS Oh yeah, good point, I need to try that too!
@AMS @ai6yr yes: the position of the arms and chest while riding demands more space: you might rip the back. You may want to look for a jacket that fits you comfortably for riding and take some measurements.
@wtrmt @AMS I learned this the hard way with a pair of pants. Bought some pants (used) online and modified them to my size, and they are great walking, but I cannot ride a bike on them... bend over and it totally mashes your nether regions, lol. Not enough give, not at all.

@ai6yr @wtrmt @AMS

This is one case where the bottom hem might not be straight across.

Esp for biking jackets, the back might be longer.

However, the jacket you seem to be using as model seems to be an even-hemmed (horizontal, not diagonal) jacket. Look at biking rainshells, and other jackets, and pick a design.

Maybe put the longer back on a rainshell, and leave this jacket horizontal? It's up to you, but this is what I would probably choose.

@bjb @ai6yr @wtrmt @AMS
Personally, I love a longer, curved backside for all of my outdoorsy jackets!
@ai6yr lookin good!
@ai6yr that's going to look so cool in the fabric you chose!
@leapingwoman I hope so! The pattern matching will be interesting.
@ai6yr what is this "pattern matching" of which you speak? 😆
@ai6yr love the shoulder spikes
@sarae Lol stegosauraus jacket

@ai6yr

Adjust the shape of the shoulder pieces so they lie flat, before proceeding. In the photo there are pulled waves in them.

@ai6yr I’ve used binder clips. They’re metal and you can’t leave them in place for weeks because they might rust. But, they work well. I still prefer pins, though.

@ELS @ai6yr when a friend taught me sail making he showed me how to use double sided tape for slippery stuff

game changer!

other than that yeah pins

long pins

@sarae @ai6yr Oh, yeah, double-sided tape sounds like it would be great for slippery material.

@ELS @ai6yr this is the stuff

I'm still working off the original roll I got with a sail kit years ago

https://www.sailrite.com/search.php?query=basting+tape

Sailrite

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@sarae @ELS All the stuff I have read online (yeah, I know) say to use the clips with this sort of material, so you don't put lots of pin holes in places, lol.

@ELS binder clips are also cheaper!

I was looking into getting some sewing clips when I was making black out curtains (fewer holes is better for black out fabric) and ended up just using binder clips I had instead of getting those clips, but I remember thinking they were pricey at the time.

@ai6yr

@ELS @ai6yr
I've used binder clips too.
@ai6yr it's true, the clips do break after a bit, but i still love them, and use them all the time :)
@piebob Am I using them correctly?
@ai6yr @piebob My arthritic thumbs don't like the strength it takes to open the clips (and hold them open). I've gone back to a mixture of large-headed pins and sewing weights.
@ai6yr looks like it to me from the photo. for some kind of reference: i break maybe one per project, and i have bought a total of two sets of 100 since 2022. i have about 50-75 left right now.
@ai6yr
Without looking at the rest of the thread, I'm going to assume that these are some fierce shoulder pads being installed in the jacket 🤗