I've also got to switch to a different power supply for the pi that's running octoprint, and upgrade the pi to a new OS (which requires backing up and restoring existing octopi settings) because my python is EOL.
so it's working, but I'm still sighing a lot
okay I printed a CE5P calicat after attempting to fix the z-offset issue. It still is horrible.
possibly this is mostly a temperature issue: I'm using the stock temperatures but I think I upgraded this to an all-metal hotend that needs to run higher?
reprinted with higher temp. it's better, but still bad.
so probably there's another issue. I remember I did a lot of rebuilding of the hot end in the final days of using this before, so who knows what's clogged in there?
I printed on a raft because the z-offset is still fuckt
had to dig out my flir phone to take pictures for silly cellphone reasons.
Anyway, this is the 220°C 110% flow calicat. It looks way better, right?
Thanks to everyone who has given suggestions for how to fix this. Unfortunately most of them require me standing up for longer than I can manage, so I've mainly just fiddled with settings (since I can do that from my bed).
but when I can, I'll be:
* calibrating the extruder
* trying to clear clogs in the hot-end
* calibrating the z-axis offset (which is a multistep nightmare in this setup)
installed a USB power blocker to try and fix the undervolting. it didn't work.
So I'm gonna have to find another power supply for that
okay I tried switching to a different USB power supply (5v 2A) with thicker usb cables: No difference, still undervolting.
I also cold-pulled the hot end a few times, to see if that'll help.
Seems pretty good.
My z-alignment is still fucked. I printed this on a raft because I knew it still was, but the raft was nearly impossible to remove. it was WELDED to the build plate.
and keep in mind that's me saying it as someone who has made it their livelong profession and hobby of touching computers as much as they can. I love a bunch of little places to change things. I love being able to fiddle with settings.
3d printing has too many settings
fiddled with my z-offset calibration. tried measuring the build plate: that was a mistake. The thing is bent as fuck.
but it does do a 4x4 grid for level so maybe it can compensate enough for that to not be a huge problem. Lets see, time for another 9 hour print!
Okay I thought I fixed the clog and turned up the print temp and did another Calicat. At the end of the print, the webcam showed nothing there. I watched the time-lapse, and yep. No filament at all came out.
So I've got something way more broken than just a low temperature
the Principle of What Changed, however, says it's the filament:
I printed like 10 CHEP cubes and CaliCats in the last couple weeks, zero spaghetti.
I switch to the green filament, everything I've printed is spaghetti.
Got some fresh filament, it printed a CaliCat just fine at 200°C.
I also swapped to a Pi4 for OctoPrint, so no more undervoltage errors.
Now lets see if we can do a loooong print
new filament failed. I went in there and the extruder was clicking, trying and failing to shove plastic through the hot end.
SO YEAH I KINDA HATE THIS THING
@scribblesonnapkins @foone This is true. I remember my first laser printer. It was a DECLaser 5100 that was thrown away by the VA Hospital in my area.
It just needed a few repairs and bam! Laser printer for free. That thing ran till I replaced it with my Brother HL-L3230CDW.
@foone OctoPrint fainted! Foone is out of usable 3d printers! Foone took their printers to the Pokemon center.
(Yea, Idk what the "game over" messages look like these days.)
@foone
Also, I've had numerous issues with Octoprint specifically where the exact same model will print fine via SD card or USB stick.
Ymmv, but that could be your problem too
@foone
Most of my problems end up being bowden tube and filament quality. Almost always there's some friction in the tube or filament run that causes issues. Cheap filaments can vary in problems from diameter to being spooled improperly (extruder tension locking a filament overlap to the spool), to hydrated filament, or cheap filler materials that leaves deposits behind
I've had a hotend issue once and replacing the nozzle was sufficient to solve that case.
@foone > place your bets until how long it'll be until I'm ranting about how printers are a sin against man and god
10 Days. You lasted longer than I thought, tbh. Reset the counter to 0 days?
@foone Printer's haunted [racks shotgun]
Seriously, though, that sounds like some trouble I had with my Creality CR-10S. I no longer have that printer, though. Lots of fiddly trouble like that.
Replaced it with a Core One and the only problems there have been self-inflicted and easily solved. Cost a hell of a lot more but being able to "just print" is a hell of a lot better on one's mental health, I can attest to that.
