The thread about the coming of the Union Canal, what became of its “Ports” and why its bridges moved around
This thread was originally written and published in October 2021.
A nice set of three pictures was tweeted by the City of Edinburgh Council today (October 17th 2021).
The lift bridge, now at Leamington, in its original position on FountainbridgeThe original drawbridge at Leamington, looking towards Viewforth ChurchLochrin Basin, looking towards the lum of the Tollcross Tramway powerhouseThe Union Canal, c. 1920, Francis M. Chrystal photographs. © Edinburgh City LibrariesThe first shows the familiar “Leamington” Lift Bridge, but not at Leamington – instead it is in its original location on Fountainbridge. Pictures two and three show the original lifting drawbridge that existed at Leamington and the Lochrin Basin with the lum of the Tollcross Tramway Depot winding engines towering over the scene, respectively. Not long after these pictures were taken, in 1922 the Union Canal was cut back to its current terminus. The hydraulically powered lifting bridge that carried the Fountainbridge roadway across the water was surplus to requirements and so was relocated to its current home. Here it replaced a diminutive wooden drawbridge and has long been a familiar landmark, known since as the Leamington Lift Bridge.
Leamington Lift Bridge in 2009, CC-BY-SA 2.0 Kim TraynorThe below photograph shows the lift bridge in its original location – the street of Fountainbridge runs left to right along it. The photographer would have been standing where the modern office block which in recent memory contained the AKVA bar is. The baronial style block on the right was the headquarters building of the St. Cuthbert’s Co-operative Association and still stands in this location. In front of the bridge we can see a canal barge and the small building to its right housed the machinery for lifting the bridge deck and the weighbridge office.
Fountainbridge lift bridge, c. 1910. © Edinburgh City LibrariesThe lift bridge had a relatively short life here, it was opened only in 1908 in a ceremony performed by Councillor William Fraser of St. Bernard’s Ward, convenor of the Streets and Buildings Committee. A feature of the structure is the raised steps to one side that allowed pedestrians to cross it when the deck was lifted (and still do, to this day). Prior to this, a much simpler drawbridge crossed the canal and was long a bottleneck to traffic and a danger to pedestrians. The newspapers are full of stories of drownings in this locality and in 1906, the father of Gordon Crawford, age 6, sued the City for £250 on account of injuries the boy received when the bridge was lowered on his toes while closing it, resulting in the loss of three toes.
Fountainbridge, pre-1890. The Fountainbridge Free Church and school can be seen on the left, they were hidden from view when the Co-op building went up. The crenelated structure on right was the weight bridge and bothy for the bridge operator © Edinburgh City LibrariesIf you are in this neighbourhood these days, and go along the landlocked street called Port Hamilton to the rear of number 90-98 Fountainbridge, you will see that it has a distinctive and unusual curving rear wall.
Rear elevation of 90-98 Fountainbridge, the former St. Cuthbert’s Co-Operative Association building.Such unusual features in a building are usually explained by a property boundary, which in this case is where this plot meets the former route of the Union Canal, where it turns right (east) after passing under Fountainbridge to its terminal basins. These were called Port Hamilton and Port Hopetoun and the former obviously explains the source of this modern street name.
Fountainbridge in 1893, showing the canal turn towards its terminus, resulting in the curved property boundary. OS Town Plan. Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of ScotlandWell before there was a canal here, around which soon grew the densely packed 19th century industrial district of Fountainbridge, the scene here would have been far more pastoral, starkly illustrated by this 18th century scene painted by Patrick Nasmyth.
Looking towards Edinburgh Castle from the vicinity of Fountainbridge in the 1790s. CC-BY-NC National Galleries Scotland.But the illusion here is of course (deliberately) spoiled by the clouds of smoke and steam emanating from the Haig’s Lochrin Distillery. This facility operated on and off in the boom-bust cycles of the grain distillation industry from the 1760s through to the 1860s. The steam engine shown on the map below was likely the first one in Edinburgh, probably a Newcomen-type “atmospheric engine” for pumping water (thanks to Mark Watson for this information). The Cameo cinema is now the approximate location of the site. The wiggly line of running through the middle of the map and distillery is the burn / ditch / drain variously known as either the Dalry Burn or the Lochrin. This historically drained the Boroughloch (to the east, or right, of the map) west towards the Water of Leith at Roseburn. The name Lochrin, which lent itself to the neighbourhood, streets and later canal basin, a Rin (the Scots form of the English Run) being a “small stream, a rivulet, a water-channel“.
Haig’s Lochrin Distillery. Ainslie’s 1804 Town Plan. Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of ScotlandThe workers had been digging for over 4 years when the 28 mile long Union Canal opened in its entirety from the Forth and Clyde Canal at Falkirk to its terminus at the basin of Port Hopetoun in May 1822. This is pre-emptively shown in Kirkwood’s town plans of 1817 and 1821, below – you can slide the handle in the middle of the maps to compare the overlay. The town maps or “plans” of this time had a habit of mixing what was built with what was intended to be built (as we can see from the pink washed planned buildings along Lothian Road). Note that the final route of the canal was more direct and curvaceous than that sketched out in 1817 – it simply cut straight through existing properties of Mr Robert Blair, Mr Hunter, Miss Grin(d)lay and Messrs Miller, Morison and Durie into the Inner Basin, which would be named Port Hopetoun. That land marked “Chisholm of Chisholm“, refers to William Chisholm, 24th Chief of Clan Chisholm, and was an area of open ground known as Grindlay’s Park. Notice at this time, Morrison Street isn’t named as such at the east, instead it’s Tobago Street and then the ancient Castle Barns.
Overlay of Kirkwood’s 1821 (left) and 1817 (right) town plans showing the Union Canal entering Edinburgh at Fountainbridge. Slide the slider to compare. Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of ScotlandThe Grindlay’s Park land was aquired by the Union Canal Company to build the basin. In John Wood’s town plan of 1831, published 10 years after Kirkwood’s later map above, we can see that their portion of land to the east (right) has been developed into the gushet1 block defined by Fountainbridge to its south, Bread Street to its north and Downie Place to its west. The latter street was so named in for the first director of the Union Canal Company, Robert Downie of Appin, and lasted as the street name until Lothian Road took over in 1886.
Compared to the modern streetscape, it can be hard to get your head around where the ends of the Union Canal were at this time. The below map of 1848 shows the two terminal basins – the original Port Hopetoun to the east (right) and the slightly later Port Hamilton to its west (left). These sit between the elegant curve of Gardener’s Crescent on the left, Morrison Street to the top and Downie Place on the right. This end of the town was in a period of flux at this time, rapidly changing from the medieval suburb to the west of the old city limits to the new Victorian. Even in 1849 the place had changed enormously since the canal arriving just under 30 years previously as Georgian suburbs gave way to Victorian industry.
OS 1849 Town Plan. Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of ScotlandPort Hopetoun was named for the John Hope, 4th Earl of Hopetoun (that stately looking fellow on the plinth in the Royal Bank of Scotland’s garden at 36 St. Andrew Square). Coal was the reason that the canal was built, it was estimated the city residents and industries (including Leith) needed 214,000 tons of coal a year, and that the canal could capture at least 2/3 of this market. And thus it was coal that was the reason John Hope invested: he stood to profit heavily by getting coal from his collieries in West Lothian directly to the city.
John, Earl of Hopetoun’s statue outside the Royal Bank of Scotland in St. Andrew Square. PD by Delta-NCSuch was the initial success of the canal, Port Hopetoun was at capacity in a few years so Port Hamilton followed in 1826. Again it was named after an aristocratic coal master and investor; Alexander Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton. Prior to the opening of the canal, the Scots Magazine gives the price of coal in Edinburgh at either 15-18s per ton if it was brought by cart from the Lothians or 18-21s per ton for the better quality coal that came by sea from Fife, Alloa or Northumbria. The canal brought this down to 11s 6d per ton and from its opening until the arrival of the railways from Midlothian into the city, these men enjoyed a near monopoly on the transport of coal into the city along their canal.
Alexander Hamilton, 10th Duke of HamiltonI don’t have a more authoritative source other than the master of one of the local canal boats, but it is my understanding that the current colour scheme of the canal bridges in Edinburgh is symbolic;
- blue for water
- black for the coal it brought
- gold for the prosperity it was to bring
- red for the blood (metaphorical and literal) shed building it
We know what things looked when the canal arrived in the city thanks to a wonderful Lizar’s engraving of a John Wilson Ewbank drawing of 1825 for Picturesque Views of Edinburgh, reproduced in watercolour by Dukinfield Swarbeck in 1827. This view, looking east towards the Castle, shows the bridge that defined the entrance to Port Hopetoun basin. The trees on the left are the remains of the gardens of Miss Grindlay and others that were cut through by the canal.
Dukinfield Swarbeck’s watercolour view of the Union Canal looking towards Port Hopetoun, 1827We can see the steeple of the High Kirk of St. Giles in the distance and to its right the prominent, tall tenement of Downie Place. This was just one building, the first, in what is now a seemingly nondescript corner to a much larger block.
The Downie Place tenement.The basin of Port Hopetoun was quite sophisticated, with a grand, 3-storey warehouse with rather spectacular cantilevered wooden overhangings on each side from where loads could be lifted directly out of (or dropped directly in to) boats sitting beneath. The building seen on the left of the image was an old house dating from at least 1780, which latterly became known as Hopetoun House. In 1898 this was one of the sites suggested for the location of what would become the Usher Hall, but nothing further came of this.
James Kinnear, 1905, “Port Hopetoun, Edinburgh”, a watercolour looking north. © Edinburgh City LibrariesThe later Port Hamilton was a simpler affair, just a long basin with a quayside and quite basic sheds around it for the coal merchants’ use. Notice in the distance the lum of the Dewar Place electric power station – dating this to after 1895.
James Kinnear, 1906, “Port Hamilton, Edinburgh”, a watercolour looking north. Picture from auction listing.A further photo by Francis Chrystal shows Port Hamilton from the other side of the basin, looking south. If you look closely at the quayside on the right you can see stacks of coal sacks; even by 1920 obviously someone was able to scrape some sort of profit by bringing coal into the city by canal. The modern brick building under construction is a motor engineering works for Alexander Brothers.
Port Hamilton, c. 1920 © Edinburgh City LibrariesWhen these Ports closed in 1922 they were infilled to create new development land. Progress was not rapid however and Port Hopetoun was a sorry void in the city centre before eventually being selected in 1935 to be the site of a new block of offices by the Ministry of Works for the Inland Revenue. This grand Art Deco development included shops and houses, and in the basement was located a swimming pool and the auditorium of the Regal cinema (later the ABC and now a sorry excuse for an Odeon). Much controversy was caused in the newspapers in June 1935 when the name of Somerset House was unveiled. The outraged letters to the editor clearly had the intended effect as this was completed as the more appropriately named Lothian House.
Lothian House from Lothian Road. CC-BY-SA 4.0 StephencdicksonThe façade of this fine building is decorated with cast iron reliefs of figures representing industry and nature. If you look up you can also find a memorial carving to Port Hopetoun in the form of a canal boat and tow horse, with the civic crests of Edinburgh and Glasgow, the cities linked by this waterway.
Port Hopetoun memorial carving.The site of Port Hamilton was acquired by the St. Cuthbert’s Co-op and became a modern industrial dairy, bakery and transport workshops. In 1943, aged 13, one Thomas Sean Connery took up a job on a milk float for St. Cuthbert’s from here. He would later go on to make something of a name for himself in cinema. There are lots more great photos on the Edinburgh Libraries and Museum website – Capital Collections of Port Hamilton and Port Hopetoun if you follow these links. All of them are high resolution and so you can zoom right in to all the wonderful details.
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