Eureka JeansOrr Pantaloon Overall project with Dean Hashimoto!
We started this project over a year ago with the aim to study and reproduce an extraordinary pair of late 1860s - early 1870s pantaloon overalls in Dean's collection. We analyzed and discussed the construction, materials, and measurements in great detail via hundreds of photos, endless DMs and online conferencing over several months. We had to put the project on hold multiple times as work got in the way, but we managed to create a prototype in November last year. This allowed us to compare all the details again and make many adjustments to the pattern and corrections in the construction, culminating in this final version.
Our aim was not so much to create an exact clone of the original pair in Dean's collection, but rather to create a new pair that could plausibly have been made around the same time at the same factory, using the same construction methods and the most authentic materials and parts that we could find. Through this process, we wanted to gain a detailed understanding of the creativity and ingenuity that went into the production of this garment during a fascinating period in the history of American work wear.
We were very lucky to be able to source the perfect 11 oz mock twist denim for this project, just enough for this one pair! In mock twist denim, the weft is formed by combining one white roving and one black roving prior to the spinning operation. Combined with the indigo-dyed warp, this creates the characteristic appearance on the backside of the denim. The denim shrinks about 8% along the warp and 5% along the weft, and the pattern was calculated to hopefully result in the same measurements as the original pants after several washes.
The new-old-stock "PATENT 1855" steel buckle and 1877 trade mark "pantaloon buttons" are perfect matches for these pantaloon overalls. We were really lucky to find these online at just the right time.
#sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #collaboration #notforsale
We started this project over a year ago with the aim to study and reproduce an extraordinary pair of late 1860s - early 1870s pantaloon overalls in Dean's collection. We analyzed and discussed the construction, materials, and measurements in great detail via hundreds of photos, endless DMs and online conferencing over several months. We had to put the project on hold multiple times as work got in the way, but we managed to create a prototype in November last year. This allowed us to compare all the details again and make many adjustments to the pattern and corrections in the construction, culminating in this final version.
Our aim was not so much to create an exact clone of the original pair in Dean's collection, but rather to create a new pair that could plausibly have been made around the same time at the same factory, using the same construction methods and the most authentic materials and parts that we could find. Through this process, we wanted to gain a detailed understanding of the creativity and ingenuity that went into the production of this garment during a fascinating period in the history of American work wear.
We were very lucky to be able to source the perfect 11 oz mock twist denim for this project, just enough for this one pair! In mock twist denim, the weft is formed by combining one white roving and one black roving prior to the spinning operation. Combined with the indigo-dyed warp, this creates the characteristic appearance on the backside of the denim. The denim shrinks about 8% along the warp and 5% along the weft, and the pattern was calculated to hopefully result in the same measurements as the original pants after several washes.
The new-old-stock "PATENT 1855" steel buckle and 1877 trade mark "pantaloon buttons" are perfect matches for these pantaloon overalls. We were really lucky to find these online at just the right time.
#sweetorr #pantaloonoveralls #collaboration #notforsale
