The #FrugalFilmProject, September 2025: The One Where We Tried To Expose Both Sides (Again)

This post has been sitting in my draft folder since the middle of September,  and I’ve just realised that I haven’t posted it, and it’s now October. Oops! I had actually submitted  one of the images for the World Wide Half Frame Photography Day, and I guess that with all that was going on, this post just slipped through the cracks. A couple of months ago on the Frugal Film Project, I tried something different: EBS photography, or Expose Both Sides. This is exactly what it sounds like, first exposing a film normally in the camera — with the emulsion side facing the subject — and then reversing the film, reloading it back into the camera, and exposing the whole film again — this time with the emulsion side facing away from the subject.

https://flic.kr/p/2rhpwgd

It didn’t go well. Even though I marked the film carefully, somehow I managed to get the alignment completely wrong, so the frames on each side of the film were not lined up. In fact they were almost precisely 50% off, so there was a big band down the centre of the ‘normal’ exposure which was the ‘between frames’ unexposed part of the film of the redscaled exposure. However, this made me all the more determined, and I really wanted to try the technique again. I read somewhere that it’s better to expose the redscaled side first, and then to expose normally for the second exposure. So this time I decanted some Harman Red film into a Rapid canister and loaded this into the Golden Wonder. The pre-production Harman Red I have is actually Harman Phoenix spooled backwards. In fact, within the sprockets it even says Harman Phoenix, so I feel this certainly counts towards the Frugal Film Project.

https://flic.kr/p/2rsYQqN

As before, I marked the position of the film gate, and this time, since I reckon this was one of the reasons the film didn’t line up the first time, I also marked the position on the film of the little tabs that engage the sprockets and push the film into the empty canister. My subject was street art, so with the redscale side I took a close-up of a series of pieces of street art around Aveiro. Once the film was finished, I decanted this into another Rapid canister, with the emulsion side facing the subject, and lined up the film with the markings on the other side (remembering to make sure that the position of the little tabs matched, too). I then retraced my route, taking photographs of the same pieces of street art, but this time at a distance.

https://flic.kr/p/2rt5pYA

When taking the photos for the second series of exposures I held the camera upside down so that the orientation of the images on both sides would be in the same direction, although I did forget this a couple of times. On completion, the film was taken to Forever Blue in Aveiro and scanned at home with an Epson Perfection v750 Pro flat bed scanner and Epson Scan software. This time, the frames on both sides were almost perfectly lined up, which was excellent. Unfortunately, both the ‘redscaled’ exposure and regular exposures were well overexposed. I had tried to underexpose the exposures on each side by 1-stop, but clearly it didn’t work, and I’m thinking that Harman Phoenix, with a box speed of ISO 200, is just too fast for EBS with the Welta Penti II half-frame Rapid camera.

https://flic.kr/p/2rsYQqN

After my initial disappointment with the images, I wasn’t sure what I got, and I was confused and a little deflated with the results, on repeating viewings I became a little happier with what I had achieved.  The images took on a really ‘painterly’ effect, almost not a photograph at all, and I really liked that. The colours were all over the place, I wasn’t sure if that was because of the scanning or what, but the overall effect was pleasing. I’m going to try it again, but this time with a slower film, and perhaps not trying to overlap with the same pieces of street art each time.I’ve posted the whole roll in an album (https://www.flickr.com/gp/147583812@N06/QBYW5KMxg8) on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images.

https://flic.kr/p/2rsYQp5

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#AgfaRapid #Art #FrugalFilmProject #Graffiti #HalfFrame #HarmanPhoenix #Mural #Penti2 #Rapid #RapidFilm #Redscale #Streetart #Welta #EBS #ExposeBothSides #URBAN #WWHFPD25

The #FrugalFilmProject, July 2025: The One Where We Tried To Expose Both Sides

This month I thought it would be fun to try something different with the Golden Wonder (a.k.a the Welta Penti II, half-frame Rapid camera). EBS photography, or Expose Both Sides, is exactly what it sounds like. First exposing a film normally in the camera — with the emulsion side facing the subject — but then reversing the film, reloading that into the camera, and exposing the whole film again — this time with the emulsion side facing away from the subject.

There are a few factors that need to be borne in mind when conducting EBS photography, like slightly underexposing each side so that the multiple exposures balance out to give a ‘properly exposed’ film, and deciding whether its important to you if the frames on each side are lined up or not. I loaded the Golden Wonder with a canister of Harman Phoenix, but this time I inserted a little bit of film into the take-up canister and marked the position of the film gate on the film. By doing this I hoped that I could line up the frames when I exposed the other side of the film. I reset the frame counter to zero, closed the camera, and fired off two shots to take the counter to ‘1’.

We took the camera to Barra, where I took photographs around the beach, and later finished the roll in Oliveira do Bairro. When metering the exposures I tried to underexpose the film slightly by taking each image 1-stop under the suggested reading from the Camera Meter app. Once the film was exposed, it was time to turn it over and reload it back into the Golden Wonder. Inside the dark bag I fed the previously exposed film into another Rapid canister, but this time I fed it backwards, as if for redscaling, with the emulsion side facing outwards. 

Once loaded into the canister, I pulled a bit of film out of the canister until I could see the gate markings that I made for the first exposure. I marked the emulsion side of the film with the markings in the same position and loaded the canisters into the camera so the film was in the same position. I then reset the frame counter to zero, closed the camera, and fired off two shots to take the counter to number ‘1’. By doing this, I hoped that the frames on each side were lined up.

I took the Golden Wonder on a walk around Águas Boas, a nearby village, and photographed walls, trees and various textures. When taking the photos I held the camera upside down so that the orientation of the images on the both sides would be in the same direction. On completion, the film was taken to Forever Blue in Aveiro and scanned at home with an Epson Perfection v750 Pro flat bed scanner and Epson Scan software. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images. 

On return from the lab, looking at the negatives one thing was immediately apparent: the frames weren’t lined up. In fact they were almost precisely 50% off, so there was a big band down the centre of the first exposure which was the ‘between frames’ unexposed part of the film of the second exposure. Also, the ‘redscaled’ second exposure was well overexposed compared to the first exposure, so most of the details of the first exposure were completely lost. I had tried to underexpose the second exposure by going 1-stop unter the exposure, but clearly it didn’t work.

https://flic.kr/p/2rhpwgd

https://flic.kr/p/2rhonBE

A couple of the images came out really well, and I was pleased there was some success, but most of them were an unintelligible mess. At the end of the roll, there were a few more redscale images, and these came out really well. I’m definitely going to try some EBS with Rapid films again, though, but next time I might use a different camera to the Golden Wonder. Still, it’s now challenging me to get the frames lined up.

https://flic.kr/p/2rhpwk1

https://flic.kr/p/2rhj79p

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#HarmanPhoenix #Agfa #AgfaRapid #Cassette #EBS #ExposeBothSides #FrugalFilmProject #HalfFrame #Penti2 #Rapid #RapidFilm #Redscale #Welta

Down the rabbit hole: The Agfa Rapid film system

At the moment I have nine Rapid canisters. One is an expired Rapid film from the 90s, and another is always in the Welta Penti II for the Frugal Film Project (FFP). Five more are filled with Harman Phoenix film for the FFP, so that leaves me with just two canisters to play with, and one of those might end up in another camera as a take-up canister, so that leaves one. Dammit, I need more.

This sudden passion for using Rapid canisters seems to have come from nowhere, but now I can’t really think about using 35mm film in any other way. Originally it was a format that I hadn’t tried before, or even thought about, really. But then I received my first parcel of Agfa Iso-Rapid cameras and something … clicked.

The average length of a Rapid film is about 60cm, perfect for 12 exposures (or 24 exposures in the Welta Penti II), which is much easier to use up in a single session than a 36 exposure roll of 35mm film. It’s also really easy to decant 35mm film from a cassette to a Rapid canister in a dark bag, and also to try new techniques with film. And that’s what really appeals to me. I can cut a length of film from a 36-exposure roll and try out something new, or switch between emulsions, and I’m not having to use a whole roll in one go.

For example, with Rapid canisters trying out redscale film is simplicity itself. I just take a 35mm film cassette, turn it over so the emulsion side is facing outwards, and push a length of film into the Rapid canister. Easy. I’m also keen to try other techniques with Rapid canisters, like EBS (Expose Both Sides) photography, where I can load a length of film into a Rapid canister and expose one side of the film then decant the exposed film back into the original canister, but reversed so that it exposes the other side of the film. 

The only fiddly bit of the whole process is decanting the exposed films from Rapid canisters back into 35mm cassettes before taking them to the lab. I’m not in a position to develop films myself, and I don’t really want to leave my precious and rare Rapid canisters with the lab in case they disappear. This is one reason why I’m never likely to try film soups, although that is a technique that has long fascinated me, since labs are reluctant to accept films that have been ‘souped’ in case the treatment affects the chemistry in their  machines. Understandable, really. 

Aside from that, though, I’m absolutely enjoying my new experiences with the Rapid film system. Just this past week I ordered two more cheap Rapid cameras from the Kamerastore. One was another Agfa Iso-Rapid IF,  and the second an Agfa Silette Rapid F. Each contained one Rapid canister, so now I’m sure that I have more than enough canisters to keep me going, not only through the Frugal Film Project but for future experimentation, too.

I also have a lovely little collection of Rapid cameras to play with. Obviously there’s the Golden Wonder, the lovely little golden half-frame Welta Penti II with its unique plunger wind on mechanism, and the basic square-frame Agfa Iso-Rapid IFs, that I still have to use.

But I also have the Lomo Smena SL that’s a fabulous Rapid version of the Smena 8M, and now the Agfa Silette Rapid F. There’s even the Ricoh 35K Rapid camera, but I’m not sure that one is working properly, so it’s on the back seat. So I reckon that this year is going to be Rapid film year, and I’m really looking forward to it. 

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#Agfa #AgfaRapid #Canister #EBS #Experimental #ExpiredFilm #ExposeBothSides #FrugalFilmProject #Rapid #RapidFilm #Redscale

Photographer Exposes Both Sides of Film to Create Stunning Effects

Creativity knows no bounds.

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