mirobo technologyIt's freebie Friday!!
Need a 3D-printable Arduino UNO mount? I've got two different designs and a bunch of other Arduino robot models shared on #Makerworld here: https://makerworld.com/en/@Chief_human
UNWIRE.HK自己 3D 列印 Labubu 只需十幾蚊 中國 3D 列印公司涉侵權 3D 模型檔案全面下架
https://unwire.hk/2026/03/17/3d-printing-labubu-bambu-lab-pop-mart-settlement/3d-%e6%89%93%e5%8d%b0/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=3d-printing-labubu-bambu-lab-pop-mart-settlement
#3D_打印 #城中熱話 #玩具 #3D_列印 #Bambu_Lab #Labubu #MakerWorld #Pop_Mart #模型分享 #版權侵權
https://unwire.hk/2026/03/17/3d-printing-labubu-bambu-lab-pop-mart-settlement/3d-%e6%89%93%e5%8d%b0/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=3d-printing-labubu-bambu-lab-pop-mart-settlement
#3D_打印 #城中熱話 #玩具 #3D_列印 #Bambu_Lab #Labubu #MakerWorld #Pop_Mart #模型分享 #版權侵權
新聞頻道UNWIRE.HK (@unwire_hk)
自己 3D 列印 Labubu 只需十幾蚊 中國 3D 列印公司涉侵權 3D 模型檔案全面下架
https://unwire.hk/2026/03/17/3d-printing-labubu-bambu-lab-pop-mart-settlement/3d-%e6%89%93%e5%8d%b0/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=3d-printing-labubu-bambu-lab-pop-mart-settlement
#3D_打印 #城中熱話 #玩具 #3D_列印 #Bambu_Lab #Labubu #MakerWorld #Pop_Mart #模型分享 #版權侵權
自己 3D 列印 Labubu 只需十幾蚊 中國 3D 列印公司涉侵權 3D 模型檔案全面下架
https://unwire.hk/2026/03/17/3d-printing-labubu-bambu-lab-pop-mart-settlement/3d-%e6%89%93%e5%8d%b0/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=3d-printing-labubu-bambu-lab-pop-mart-settlement
#3D_打印 #城中熱話 #玩具 #3D_列印 #Bambu_Lab #Labubu #MakerWorld #Pop_Mart #模型分享 #版權侵權
taivlamI've also posted this model onto MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2530256-replacement-endcap-for-king-s-rack-shelves#profileId-2784501
(It may not be my preferred platform, due to tech sociology reasons, but I also have to learn how this public 3D printing platform works.)
Replacement endcap for King's Rack shelves - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
Download this free 3D print file designed by Tai. BackgroundI was helping a friend assemble some of these shelves from King's Rack when I accidentally broke one of endcaps, used to cover the sharp edges of the vertical beams at the top for safety protection, while using a rubber mallet (improperly, which I realized in hindsight) to assemble the shelf. It was partially damaged, but then I nearly lost that endcap. (Somehow, my friend luckily found it before I left for the day.) I realized that designing the endcap on my own would be relatively straightforward. So, I used Onshape to design the endcap.I have uploaded the 3D model as an STL file, a STEP file, and as a public document on Onshape for:Version A, which as the correct fillet value; andVersion B, which has as the original fillet value.Notes for Versions A and B:Version A has the correct fillet of 1mm radius along the side opposite that attaches into the metal bar (which is a 2mm diameter fillet, and fits the OEM's designer's MO of using measurements relating or equal to the number 2).On the other hand, Version B has an exaggerated fillet of 2mm radius (which is a 4mm diameter fillet, and breaks away from the established OEM designer's MO).While the final model is not an exact match,it is sufficiently close enough for the recipient of the endcaps, who I have named the Taskmaster.Build instructions/purposeNone for the model itself. You simply put this onto your King's Rack shelf, in case you either lost/broke the included OEM endcaps; or if you would like some extra endcaps to put on the bottom feet. It fits relatively loosely, but that might be a good characteristic to have, as these endcaps tend to fall off anyways when moving them around. Also, many of these shelves are placed in basements with "unfinished" floors and similar indoor areas, so it may be best to simply have them fit looser than the OEM caps for easier removal for such times for increased convenience. (I am also not sure how much this is due to the Bambu Lab A1 mini causing printed models to shrink slightly, on the order of 0.1mm, in rather unpredictable manners that I still have not yet figured out.) (This is not mentioned in the included OEM instructions. The OEM packaging includes only 8 endcaps, and they are all originally intended to be place on the top-facing ends of the vertical beams. Only all 8 are used if you build the shelf in the "horizontal" configuration; otherwise, only 4 are supposed to be used if you build the shelf "vertically". However, you may use the remaining 4 endcaps for the bottom feet when the shelf is assembled in the vertical arrangement.)Print tipsSolid infill (even though this might not be totally necessary)Print Plate: Bambu Lab PEI Smooth Plate (High Temperature)Filament: Bambu Lab PLA BasicI might suggest a stiffer/harder TPU filament, if you want the endcaps to not scratch floor surfaces that are more presentable.Otherwise, ABS could improve strength.Nozzle size: 0.4mmLayer height: 0.2mmQuality preset in Bambu Studio: "Standard"If you are interested in a tighter fit, then I would suggest using a smaller tolerance, but do not exceed shrinking the interior dimensions beyond 0.1-0.2mm.Thanks and fun factThanks to the Taskmaster (no, not the Marvel/MCU one) for this opportunity. There are now an over-abundance of extra King's Rack endcaps in your domicile. BTW, I finished this on time for New Year 2026, but I did not get to test this properly due to two blizzards in January and February 2026.
Natanox 🇺🇦🇵🇸
TeaZarDer 3. Eintrag im #Hobbytagebuch :
Zum malen bin ich einfach nicht gekommen, obwohl ich es fest vor hatte. Stattdessen wurde wieder einiges gedruckt. Zum einen noch mal eine ganze Menge Bitz für den nächsten Leman Russ, außerdem habe ich noch einen Teil von #zorpsectorrome gedruckt. Für die Kinder habe ich noch zwei #totoro s gedruckt. Das ist im Moment schwer im Trent. Außerdem habe ich zum ersten Mal einen #3dprint Schlüsselanhänger auf #makerworld erstellt und gedruckt. 😊 #MaDeV #warhammer40k
Zum malen bin ich einfach nicht gekommen, obwohl ich es fest vor hatte. Stattdessen wurde wieder einiges gedruckt. Zum einen noch mal eine ganze Menge Bitz für den nächsten Leman Russ, außerdem habe ich noch einen Teil von #zorpsectorrome gedruckt. Für die Kinder habe ich noch zwei #totoro s gedruckt. Das ist im Moment schwer im Trent. Außerdem habe ich zum ersten Mal einen #3dprint Schlüsselanhänger auf #makerworld erstellt und gedruckt. 😊 #MaDeV #warhammer40k
BunthoernchenNur von meiner Druckerin gedruckt. (Das Model ist von jemand anderem: AdamL)
Mega witziges Spiel. Werde es zum Easterhegg mitbringen und kann dann im Kidspace gespielt werden.
#eh23 #kidspace #3ddruck #3dprint #spiele #bambu #makerworld
Mega witziges Spiel. Werde es zum Easterhegg mitbringen und kann dann im Kidspace gespielt werden.
#eh23 #kidspace #3ddruck #3dprint #spiele #bambu #makerworld
It's freebie Friday!!
Need a way to mount an Arduino UNO? Check out this 3D-printable mount and my other models on #MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/519365-open-snap-in-arduino-uno-mount#profileId-435734
Open, snap-in Arduino UNO mount - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
Download this free 3D print file designed by Chief human. Fasten this mount to your project and then easily snap-in your Arduino UNO! This version features an open bottom for faster printing using less material. There is also a closed back version of the same mount to protect the Arduino No screws are required to fasten the Arduino, so the mount stays attached to your project while you can easily remove the Arduino if necessary. The regular Arduino UNO mounting holes pass through the mount and can also be used if desired. This mount has been tested to fit the Arduino UNO R3, Arduino UNO R4 Minima, and Arduino UNO R4 WiFi.
The Oracle WokStation@MakersHour I do! The code for The Staff code is on gitHub, and you can print The Fuse from #makerworld #makersHour https://makerworld.com/models/2170165
The Fuse - a lamp - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
Download this free 3D print file designed by WokStation. The Fuse is a lamp I created entirely in FreeCAD, inspired by the fuses found inside UK mains plugs, and the copper clamps that hold them in place. At its heart is a Bambu 20cm COB LED string and a really chunky on/off switch! A lot of revisions, part changes and iterations were involved in bringing this to a final piece, and one heck of a lot of coffee. I used BL Metal PLA, Dark Copper and Dark Iron, as well as BL PLA Silk+ Titan silver and SUNLU PLA+ silk shiny copper filaments for the main print. I printed a 200x50mm cylinder while doing part fitting, and it's actually a pretty good diffuser. I'm including it for those that can't get an acrylic tube, or would rather print their own from a translucent filament. I printed it in BL PLA white. ASSEMBLYAs well as the parts in the BOM listed below, you will need:-Soldering Iron & solder-Hot Glue Gun-Sewing needle and thread-Superglue or other hard plastic glue - beware vapours damaging the acrylic tube! Get some non-fogging glue or use epoxy resin!-Pliers-Two to four M3 bolts with a length between 12mm & 20mm-One terminal block You'll definitely want to read through this before you begin! Solder cables to the COB LED string, they need to be approximately 20cm long. Solder cables to the USB breakout, they need to be about 8cm long. Test the COB LED string after soldering to ensure it's still ok. Thread the needle and tie the loose end to the end of the COB string, as close to the end as you can get it. Try and loop it round twice and pull it tight enough to slightly bite into the silicone. Cut the tail from the knot. Lay the thread and COB string out straight and put some superglue on the knot. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT as it holds the COB taught in the lamp. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly! Prepare the switch by bending the legs outwards and upwards. Partially unscrew the terminals. Mount the COB LED inside one of the nozzles; from the back of the nozzle, insert the needle and pull it and the thread through, followed by the COB LED. The circuit board may need to be rotated slightly to fit snugly inside. Once it's fully in, thoroughly secure it with hot glue.Next, put it on the acrylic tube; drop the sewing needle inside and let the thread and COB string follow it. Place the nozzle atop the acrylic tube and glue it in place; set the nozzle slightly off-centre, then add glue to the end of the acrylic tube in three spots. Gently lift the nozzle and place it on the tube, applying pressure until it takes.Lay the tube on it's side and thread the needle through the front of the next nozzle. Guide the nozzle into place at the end of the tube, and pull the COB through the end of the nozzle - it should intrude by a few millimetres, hiding your knot. This is the trickiest part of the assembly!You need to pull the cotton so the COB string is taught between the nozzles. Pull it to the side and hold it in place with your finger so you don't lose tension. Now you need to put some hot glue in to hold the COB and the cotton in place! Be careful not to let it flow through the nozzle into the tube! Maintain tension until the glue cools. Now cross the thread over the cooled glue and add a dab more to hold it there. Cut thread once the glue is totally cooled.Next you glue the nozzle into place by moving it slightly aside so you can add glue to the end of the pipe like before, then slide the nozzle back into place. You won't be able to move it very far. It's much easier from here! Assemble the legs! Slide an end cap into the clamp on a leg as shown on the right, and align the square holes. Take a peg and add glue to the underside of the wings. Push it into the square hole. It's a tight fit, so you might want to do a dry run first. Repeat for the second leg. Thread the wires from the COB string into a leg (tip: blutack them together for this) so they poke from the bottom hole. The inside is angled to encourage the wires to turn the corner more easily.Add some (non fogging!) glue to the inside lip of the end cap and then seat the acrylic tube assembly into the cap - you may need to be firm! Hold it in place while the glue sets. Fit the leg/tube assembly onto the enclosure by sliding it into the slot and securing with an M3 bolt. You may need to use pliers to turn it, there's no room for a hex key.Add some (non fogging!) glue to the inner lip of the other end cap and slide it into place as shown, and secure with another M3 bolt. Slide the USB breakout into the slot and secure it with plenty of hot glue. Add some to the seams between the legs and the enclosure for added security. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the USB breakout to one of the pins on the switch. No solder is needed, you just secure it with a screwdriver. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the COB string to the other terminal on the switch.Slot the switch into the hole and secure with a washer and nut. Don't forget to add the ON/OFF marker!Connect the NEGATIVE wire from the USB to the terminal block. Connect the NEGATIVE wire from the COB string to the other side of the terminal block. CHECK AND RECHECK YOUR WIRING. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE CONNECTED THE TWO POSITIVES TO THE SWITCH AND THE TWO NEGATIVES TO THE TERMINAL BLOCK. CHECK FOR SHORTS WITH A MULTIMETER. You can plug it in and turn it on now. Make sure it works to your satisfaction. When you're happy, secure the terminal block to the enclosure roof with hot glue. Secure any slack with hot glue. Add hot glue to where the wires are soldered, and to where they are screwed to the switch. This adds mechanical strength to the connections. Line the inner lip of the enclosure with strong (non fogging) glue. Add the floor so the feet point outward. Apply pressure, especially near the switch, the the edges of the floor to secure it tightly. Then, stand it up - the weight of the lamp will finish the job, but make sure it's dry before you move it. Now if everything went well, you have your very own Fuse lamp! This build has been a lot of fun and I'm really pleased with the final result! I hope you like it as much as I do!
#makerworld competition announcement is tonight, midnight gmt (yes, technically tomorrow, I know!) for their "Torch" competition. Judging is closed, it's the announcement I'm waiting for!
Really like my entry, obviously, but the competitive is tough. Still, here it is, The Fuse, created in #freecad. #3dprinting
*crosses fingers. And toes. And legs, arms, eyes...*
https://makerworld.com/models/2170165
The Fuse - a lamp - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
Download this free 3D print file designed by WokStation. The Fuse is a lamp I created entirely in FreeCAD, inspired by the fuses found inside UK mains plugs, and the copper clamps that hold them in place. At its heart is a Bambu 20cm COB LED string and a really chunky on/off switch! A lot of revisions, part changes and iterations were involved in bringing this to a final piece, and one heck of a lot of coffee. I used BL Metal PLA, Dark Copper and Dark Iron, as well as BL PLA Silk+ Titan silver and SUNLU PLA+ silk shiny copper filaments for the main print. I printed a 200x50mm cylinder while doing part fitting, and it's actually a pretty good diffuser. I'm including it for those that can't get an acrylic tube, or would rather print their own from a translucent filament. I printed it in BL PLA white. ASSEMBLYAs well as the parts in the BOM listed below, you will need:-Soldering Iron & solder-Hot Glue Gun-Sewing needle and thread-Superglue or other hard plastic glue - beware vapours damaging the acrylic tube! Get some non-fogging glue or use epoxy resin!-Pliers-Two to four M3 bolts with a length between 12mm & 20mm-One terminal block You'll definitely want to read through this before you begin! Solder cables to the COB LED string, they need to be approximately 20cm long. Solder cables to the USB breakout, they need to be about 8cm long. Test the COB LED string after soldering to ensure it's still ok. Thread the needle and tie the loose end to the end of the COB string, as close to the end as you can get it. Try and loop it round twice and pull it tight enough to slightly bite into the silicone. Cut the tail from the knot. Lay the thread and COB string out straight and put some superglue on the knot. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT as it holds the COB taught in the lamp. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly! Prepare the switch by bending the legs outwards and upwards. Partially unscrew the terminals. Mount the COB LED inside one of the nozzles; from the back of the nozzle, insert the needle and pull it and the thread through, followed by the COB LED. The circuit board may need to be rotated slightly to fit snugly inside. Once it's fully in, thoroughly secure it with hot glue.Next, put it on the acrylic tube; drop the sewing needle inside and let the thread and COB string follow it. Place the nozzle atop the acrylic tube and glue it in place; set the nozzle slightly off-centre, then add glue to the end of the acrylic tube in three spots. Gently lift the nozzle and place it on the tube, applying pressure until it takes.Lay the tube on it's side and thread the needle through the front of the next nozzle. Guide the nozzle into place at the end of the tube, and pull the COB through the end of the nozzle - it should intrude by a few millimetres, hiding your knot. This is the trickiest part of the assembly!You need to pull the cotton so the COB string is taught between the nozzles. Pull it to the side and hold it in place with your finger so you don't lose tension. Now you need to put some hot glue in to hold the COB and the cotton in place! Be careful not to let it flow through the nozzle into the tube! Maintain tension until the glue cools. Now cross the thread over the cooled glue and add a dab more to hold it there. Cut thread once the glue is totally cooled.Next you glue the nozzle into place by moving it slightly aside so you can add glue to the end of the pipe like before, then slide the nozzle back into place. You won't be able to move it very far. It's much easier from here! Assemble the legs! Slide an end cap into the clamp on a leg as shown on the right, and align the square holes. Take a peg and add glue to the underside of the wings. Push it into the square hole. It's a tight fit, so you might want to do a dry run first. Repeat for the second leg. Thread the wires from the COB string into a leg (tip: blutack them together for this) so they poke from the bottom hole. The inside is angled to encourage the wires to turn the corner more easily.Add some (non fogging!) glue to the inside lip of the end cap and then seat the acrylic tube assembly into the cap - you may need to be firm! Hold it in place while the glue sets. Fit the leg/tube assembly onto the enclosure by sliding it into the slot and securing with an M3 bolt. You may need to use pliers to turn it, there's no room for a hex key.Add some (non fogging!) glue to the inner lip of the other end cap and slide it into place as shown, and secure with another M3 bolt. Slide the USB breakout into the slot and secure it with plenty of hot glue. Add some to the seams between the legs and the enclosure for added security. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the USB breakout to one of the pins on the switch. No solder is needed, you just secure it with a screwdriver. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the COB string to the other terminal on the switch.Slot the switch into the hole and secure with a washer and nut. Don't forget to add the ON/OFF marker!Connect the NEGATIVE wire from the USB to the terminal block. Connect the NEGATIVE wire from the COB string to the other side of the terminal block. CHECK AND RECHECK YOUR WIRING. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE CONNECTED THE TWO POSITIVES TO THE SWITCH AND THE TWO NEGATIVES TO THE TERMINAL BLOCK. CHECK FOR SHORTS WITH A MULTIMETER. You can plug it in and turn it on now. Make sure it works to your satisfaction. When you're happy, secure the terminal block to the enclosure roof with hot glue. Secure any slack with hot glue. Add hot glue to where the wires are soldered, and to where they are screwed to the switch. This adds mechanical strength to the connections. Line the inner lip of the enclosure with strong (non fogging) glue. Add the floor so the feet point outward. Apply pressure, especially near the switch, the the edges of the floor to secure it tightly. Then, stand it up - the weight of the lamp will finish the job, but make sure it's dry before you move it. Now if everything went well, you have your very own Fuse lamp! This build has been a lot of fun and I'm really pleased with the final result! I hope you like it as much as I do!