@castaway Y'know, I've been thinking of making a pinned post that lists them all. Haven't gotten around to it yet. When I want to append to one, I either use its hashtag like #BirthdayTower or #BlackLackStackHack or else I search my image history for a photo from the thread.
I try to tag them with #BuildThread, but I don't do it consistently. I also try to give them sequence numbers like 🧵 42/N.
@3dprinting Now I have storage for various print bed sheets.
This is the Expandable Steel Sheet Holder by Whity, upside down because I'm left handed.
https://www.printables.com/model/51462
And the printer plays on.
🧵 88/∞
@3dprinting I lifted the drybox up on stilts. While it was feeding filament to the running printer. Now there's 62mm of clearance under the box.
Upthread in 🧵 66 I showed how the drybox is removable. It still is, it's just closer to the stratosphere.
🧵 87/∞
@3dprinting Upthread in 🧵 84 I said that sometimes the filament tube inlets come off. I've addressed that issue by creating bendable clips that hold the inlets in place. Tool-free, of course.
These photos also show the six-to-five adapter. The (Un)original Prusa Drybox is designed for six spools. The MMU3 uses five. So I made an adapter. (It's a refinement of a similar adapter seen here. https://www.printables.com/model/702217-mmu3-mmu2s-5-spools-auto-rewinder-adapter-for-unor/files)
🧵 86/∞
@3dprinting Tonight I finally put the printer enclosure where it goes, a mere ten months after I started designing it. It's no longer blocking the closet doors. The old Prusa MK3 enclosure is on the right and is inferior in every way.
I really need some LEDs in the drybox.
That's all the further the lid will open now. But the filament tubes look tidy with the lid up.
🧵 85/∞
The bad:
- Full spools have enough angular momentum on retractions that sometimes they pull the tube inlets off. Then the filament wraps around the axle.
- The tubes in the back are free and floppy and not parallel. (aesthetic)
- The back panel is flimsy. It's corrugated plastic, and it bends a lot when removed.
🧵 84/∞
The good:
+ Filament is easy to load. The tube inlets are right up front, no need to reach behind the printer or feed through a buffer.
+ It works fine whether the enclosure lid is closed or tilted up at a 45° angle.
+ Everything disassembles pretty easily with no tools required.
🧵 83/∞
@3dprinting Here's how the roller comes apart. (There is voiceover in the audio.)
🧵 82/∞
@3dprinting Upthread in 🧵 69 through 72, I discussed options for passing through the back wall. @esden and @Siff advised.
The tubes go through a roller that lets them rotate together. The roller is clamped between the black surround and the black/orange panel.
For disassembly, the panel pops off, the roller lifts out and the whole back panel can be pulled away. The roller splits into two halves after the bearings are pulled off.
🧵 81/∞
@3dprinting The tubes exit the drybox in the back through the clips I showed upthread in 🧵 74. From there, they're free and floppy until they enter the enclosure through the back wall and immediately into the back of the MMU3.
🧵 80/∞
Kernel Bob 
