any #fountainpen nib experts here?
here's some pics of a nib that has potential, but is a bit scratchy, its a 14ct gold broad nib for a #Parker 45 - it is slightly flat giving some line variation like an italic nib but less extreme, and it is surprisingly flexible for a tiny P45 nib.
I almost really love it but I want to reduce the scratchiness - it isn't in any particular direction, and I'm not sure if lapping it is a good idea.
I think I see some slight tine misalignment. but I'm curious what others, especially nib experts, see here.
Here's microscope pics of the underside and and angled view from each side.
We managed to ignore the permacrisis long enough to work on some new music.
This happened today, rehearsing viola and drums, in 7/8.
Based on our past album making speed, this might get released around 2030....
My current "This is Fine" activity is trying out the "Glyn Johns Method" of micing a drum kit.
I should have tried this years ago, as it is justifiably famous. However I usually put my ride cymbal low over the floor tom, right where this layout puts the second mic - so to try this method I have had to move my ride cymbal.
I used a close mic on the snare as well. Though the setup works just about fine without it. I time aligned the kick and snare to the more distant mics.
Initial test gave good results. The image is pleasing and the tone is meaty and warm. However the mounted toms lack a little definition.
I have mounted the ride cymbal over my second mounted tom, so it isn't in the way of the second mic by the floor tom. However it does mean that the mic by the FT mostly picks up edge sound from the cymbal and less ping. Some refinement to placement may be required.
Also I think I need to make my mounted toms a bit louder and more defined if I want to avoid close micing them.
7/n
The neck pickup currently uses the alnico version, and the bridge and middle use the version I've been discussing above with a single slim neo magnet each side and an extra keeper to extend the magnetic field outwards.
The level matches pretty well between the 3 pickups. The bridge pickup has 10,000 turns, the middle 9600 and the neck 9200.
The tone is quite P90ish, though of course without the hum. I compared with another guitar I had with P90s and it was in a similar area, although the other guitar was built quite differently so it wasn't a like for like comparison.
Here's a pic of the finished pacifica:
any #fountainpen nib experts here?
here's some pics of a nib that has potential, but is a bit scratchy, its a 14ct gold broad nib for a #Parker 45 - it is slightly flat giving some line variation like an italic nib but less extreme, and it is surprisingly flexible for a tiny P45 nib.
I almost really love it but I want to reduce the scratchiness - it isn't in any particular direction, and I'm not sure if lapping it is a good idea.
I think I see some slight tine misalignment. but I'm curious what others, especially nib experts, see here.
Here's microscope pics of the underside and and angled view from each side.
@ktneely I also have some very fine 3M lapping paper. 5 microns and 1 micron. The 1 micron is so fine it barely does anything. However my question is more along the lines of:
"Do you think lapping/smoothing will help, or is there an alignment or other more structural issue here?"
@xenogon
It appears to be unevenly ground in places. I suspect it was ground while the tines were misaligned or someone used a buffing wheel a bit too aggressively.
It looks repairable.
@tallastro Thanks, what exactly do you see in the images that is uneven?
How would you fix it?
@xenogon
See how the reflection in the first photo is a different shape from one side of the slit vs the other? And the 3rd photo shows the flat inside the slit more as you get toward the tip? Is it scratchier at higher writing angles?
Gold nibs get taken to the local nib meister. She's very good. Maybe if I didn't pay too much, I'd try it myself. Micromesh and 1 micron and 0.3 micron mylar abrasives would be my tools. Take my time. Make sure the tines are even as i work.
@tallastro yes the tine on the left (the RH tine when writing) has more of a half heart shape and the other goes straight across.
I'm not sure what movements on the lapping paper would fix it though.
I will put it back in the pen and see if I can identify any angles or directions where it's worse.
I'm not sure if I have a local nib meister, and if I do they would certainly charge more than I paid for the pen and nib.
@tallastro I paid less than £20 for the whole pen. though the value is all in the nib, or would be if it were right.
this whole hobby is a bit of a guilty distraction that I'm trying to bring to a conclusion with a small collection of nice pens that I just use.
so reluctant to spend real money.
I wonder how a nibmeister would correct a v shaped slit like that?
@xenogon
Most of the value may be the gold in the nib. Either way, it's not too much. Read some more and watch nib grinding videos. Doodlebud has some videos. http://www.richardspens.com is also a good resource. A few minutes of light figure 8s on 1 micron may get it close enough to use enjoyably. Learning how these things work and how to fix them is also part of the fun for some. I would avoid power tools.
The v slit could have been caused by bending or grinding between the tines. That's also how to fix it. Study it some more. Look at other nibs so you get a feel for where you want to go. If tinkering isn't for you, sell the pen and get another.
I have similar goals and have a nice small collection. Guilt is just barely regulating my desires. There are still a few more I seem to want. My few vintage pens needed some care. Nibs needed alignment or baby's bottom correction.
there's not much gold in a P45 nib they are tiny!
thanks! I'll look for those guides.
seems to me grinding or lapping won't help very much without some bending of the tines. either the inner end of the slot needs widening and then the tines need bending closer to compensate, or else the very tips of the tines need bending inward to close the V, which I think would be v difficult to do....
the very tip doesn't have to be perfect though as I write at a fairly flat angle
i'll see if any of those guides that offer more insight.
i've learned that my ideal nib is a broad slightly italic with some flex, so line variation is achieved by a mix of flex and nib shape - however this seems to be a characteristic only really achieved by vintage gold nib pens, which is can of worms I never intended to get into!
@xenogon
Lapping may get you there if mild scratchiness is your complaint. The v slit is less than ideal but if the ink flow is ok, leave it.
Osprey has a B stub you may like. I have the Madison with a 5 nib assemblies. Get the acrylic version. The vegetal resin smells bad. The cap lets the pen dry out so maybe pick a different model. Or maybe you have a pen the nib or nib unit will fit.
Good luck and enjoy some writing.
https://www.ospreypens.com/collections/special-grind-standard-nib-units
Nib meister will charge you about 55 dollars (american). You can mail them your pen, of course they will add shipping charge. To properly fix this nib, you need a good magnifying glass and either a grinding wheel or series of micromesh pads. You will need to start with the most abrasive - in this case I would start with 2400 grit and gradually go up to 12000 until it's polished, checking often that it is to your liking.
Tines are misaligned. Also looks like one is more rounded than the other. Not an even grind. I also see a bit of canyoning, that is where tines are further apart at the tip. It is a complicated fix and I suggest lettin nib meister do it. You can definitely make an italic nib out of it.
Don't polish the nib until tines are aligned!
@xenogon That v-gap in the photo is your problem. The inner edges of the tines are causing scratchiness. Ideally, that top gap should be no wider than the bottom.
It’s a job for a nibmeister, but if you can’t find one, you could try polishing the insides of the tines a little to reduce scratching. Very fine lapping film (final polish grit) on a thick soft surface, press gently. Be sparing and check results often as you go as this is polishing in ‘baby’s bottom’ and you don’t want too much.
@Hareguizer certainly it scratches more when writing in a more vertical position, but I use a moderately low angle position. So I'm not using the very tips of the tines anyway.
softening the corners as you suggest seems like a workaround, getting them better lined up with less gap would be better (seems to me) but I'm not sure that's achievable.
as @tallastro pointed out the tine tips are a different shape from each other, I think that needs correcting.
but really I agree it's the V-gap that is the core issue.
@xenogon @tallastro it looks like the tipping on one tine is slightly longer than the other. But if your writing angle is low, that may not matter. It’s the part that touches paper that you feel when writing, so if that part is aligned you’re golden.
You can test by drawing a straight line in four directions relative to the tine slit - parallel down, parallel up, perpendicular left and right, which feel scratchy? Is there any tearing of paper fibres, or does it just feel like toothy feedback?
I have been trying the test in all directions and angles thing and it's really a bit confusing and inconsistent.
I got the tines aligned as best I could and tried a small amount of smoothing with 1micron film. This did improve the smoothness of the sweet spot, but it's still prone to scratching if the sideways angle changes.
I wouldn't say it is tearing, unless I press really hard at a very unlucky angle. I do wonder if the tines are shifting about making it undpredictable though.
right now, with light pressure and wet flow, it's actually pretty nice.
feedback yes, from smooth to chalky to toothy, but it comes and goes a bit. I have a couple other nibs that feel like a pencil, ie lots of feedback, but consistent in all directions and at all times, this is more intermittent, and therefore more noticeable. I haven't yet worked out a consistent pattern to it.
@tallastro @Hareguizer Hmm I hadn't thought of trying to actually use it under the microscope. I would have to zoom out a lot.
at high magnification it's hard enough just holding it still and in frame.
I think a top view zoomed out enough to write in frame wouldn't show me much.
the microscope can take video though. I'll think about how it might work.
however I've progressively been lapping it in response to how it behaves. It has gotten better and I would consider it usable now. It isn't smooth and consistent like a broad steel bock or kaigelu, but it is much more flexible and organic feeling.
I'm much less concerned about the dramatic V-slot now - just trying to get things smoothed off just so. Maybe the V is preventing that being perfect, but I have definitely improved the feel with the lapping film.
it's probably time to take some more pics of what effect the lapping has had.
Kevin Neely 
Tallastro 🇺🇦
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