PSA about hair removal

This post is for anyone who's seeking hair removal, but especially for the many other trans / non-binary / agender girls / women / fems / folks I see being given misinformation by laser or electrolysis technicians, especially in the US and UK 🥺

Please note that we've not gone into all hair removal forms, such as waxing, epilation, sugaring etc., as there is less misinformation given about these.

Laser hair removal

  • NOT suitable at all for tattoos!
  • Permanent hair reduction.
  • Always shave the area closely beforehand. Laser is less effective if you do not shave, and can actually cause skin burns if the hair is too long.
  • Ideally look for a clinic that uses something like a Candela GentleMax Pro or newer. Such machines are less painful & more effective than ones like any of the Alma Soprano devices.
  • 6-8 sessions will typically be the sweet spot before moving on to electrolysis.
  • Laser is sadly not universally effective with all combinations of skin and hair tones / colours. However, machines like the GentleMax Pro use a combination of a 755 nm Alexandrite laser for skin types I to III (lighter) and a 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser for skin types IV to VI (darker). You can find more info by searching for the Fitzpatrick scale.
  • If the technician or clinic tell you not to use numbing cream, that's a massive red flag against their knowledge. A technician does not need pain feedback from you to know they're using safe levels!

Electrolysis

  • Suitable for tattoos.
  • Permanent hair removal.
  • You must let the hair grow at least a few mm before a session.
  • There are 3 different electrolysis methods. Flash thermolysis electrolysis uses short, high intensity bursts that are less painful. Galvanic is slower and more painful, but typically the most effective. Blend combines both methods. Each method has pros and cons, so ask your electrologist which method they recommend for you.
  • Ask your electrologist for an estimate of how long it will take to clear an area, as their expertise and speed will vary. For example, NHS Scotland estimates it can take 250-400 hours to fully clear a face of facial hair. My own highly-experienced electrologist estimated 100-150 hours max for me, but has nearly cleared my face in under 40 hours. She's not yet taken more than about 120 hours to clear someone's face / neck fully.
  • Again, numbing cream is not only absolutely safe, it's in fact highly recommended if you cannot afford local anaesthetic injections.
  • For most folks, it's as much a mental challenge as it is about physical pain management. Even with numbing cream and strong painkillers, it's gonna hurt, especially in 2 hour+ sessions and around sensitive areas (especially the top lip and around the mouth).
  • Aloe vera gel helps with post-electrolysis swelling and recovery.

Numbing cream

  • The most common brand of numbing cream is EMLA, which is 2.5% lidocaine and 2.5% prilocaine.
  • The strongest cream we'd previously found without prescription is Tattoo Numbing Cream, which is 5% lidocaine and 5% prilocaine.
    • We no longer recommend Tattoo Numbing Cream due to having found a stronger, more cost-effective Korean brand called J-Cain, which comes in higher strengths, but our initial testing with the 29.9% lidocaine version was that it wasn't much stronger, but we think we might have been actually sent the 15.6% version.
    • They typically do 10.56%, 15.6%, 19.8%, 25.8%, 29.9% creams in 500 g tubs, which are much more economical than the Tattoo Numbing Cream.
    • They also do 59.9% and 79.9% creams, but those those are potentially very dangerous in terms of lidocaine toxicity.
    • Please note that J-Cain seems to have a decent preservative in it, but it's not clear what penetration enhancer it uses.
  • If you can get a strong lidocaine-prilocaine cream on prescription at an affordable cost, this is definitely something to consider.
  • To help with absorption, exfoliate and clean the area before applying cream, apply 60-90 mins before a session, and cover in an air-tight, water-tight dressing (cling film / plastic wrap works well).
    • Please note that food-grade PVC wrap works far better than the non-PVC one now commonly sold in supermarkets.

Sadly, I can't provide much information on local anaesthetic injections. In the UK, they're typically arranged either by a medically-trained specialist at an electrolysis clinic or separately (such as at a dentist's) immediately before attending a session.

#HairRemoval #Laser #LaserHairRemoval #LaserHairReduction #electrolysis #electrologist #trans #transgender #enby #NonBinary #agender #transition #TransWoman #TransFem #queer #LGBTQ+ #LGBTQIA+ #LGBTQIA2S+

Hair removal - Wikipedia

@SleepyCatten Thank you for providing a link to numbing creams. I've been having trouble getting EMLA in the USA right now -- seems there was some problem with their labeling, and they might not be on the over-the-counter market (prescription only). I'd be happy to be corrected about that though!

@erosdiscordia From what I understand, EMLA wasn't available in the US at some point, despite being readily available without prescription elsewhere.

I hope that it'll possibly become available without prescription again for US folks at some point.

Nonetheless, the cream I've linked to is noticeably stronger than EMLA. I've used both on laser and electrolysis, and it's better for both.

@SleepyCatten EMLA might be coming back to prescription-free eventually though, I've gotten different answers.

@SleepyCatten Great info! Regarding electro, 40 hours to almost clear your face, assuming an average of 3 or so hours at 5 or so weeks apart…

That’s 14 sessions over 1.3 years, totaling 2 years and change including laser? And your projected 120 hours potentially being 4+ years?

@matcha I've had to take breaks at points, but my first session was in February 2023. I would have liked to do 4 hours a month, but life and finances have often got in the way.

I've had 18 sessions to date. I started with 1 hour sessions, then increased to 90 mins, then to 2 hours.

In terms of my face I'm expecting I will have it 100% clear before autumn with fewer than 50 hours at the most.

Each session now will be whittling it down slightly and when I'm waiting on further regrowth there to kill the hairs, I plan to start working on the down-below bits.

I had 9 laser sessions myself before electrolysis, but that was because I didn't have information like the above when I started 😅

@SleepyCatten do you have a source on the "laser works best when freshly shaven" bit?
I've heard people say anything from clean shave to 2-3 days of growth and would love to get that misinformation stamped out.
I trust that you're right, but it would be great to have a source to show others.

@vanquesse My info comes from speaking in person with multiple laser technicians and clinics, rather than a source I can just link to sadly.

As it was explained to me, laser works by the energy being absorbed into the hair follicles themselves, heating these up, and damaging them. If you're unshaved, there's a larger area over which the heat can be absorbed, reducing how much heat energy will be absorbed by the follicles and thereby reducing the effectiveness.

If it helps though, several UK clinics do clearly state on their websites to shave before sessions.

E.g.:

https://www.laserclinics.co.uk/blogs/why-do-i-need-to-shave-before-laser-hair-removal/

https://www.sknclinics.co.uk/blog/tip-of-the-day-always-shave-before-your-laser-hair-removal-session

Should I Shave Before Laser Hair Removal? | Laser Clinics UK

Discover the importance of shaving before your laser hair removal treatment. Find out how it contributes to achieving the best results. Read more.

@SleepyCatten Two general types of electrolysis. One is electrologist gets the needle down to hair root to kill it. It's effective but very painful, and progress is slow. The other is electrologist gets close to hair root but doesn't necessarily kill it. Less painful, faster with higher rate of regrowth, but the hair grows back finer and root shallower, easier to kill next time. Both take about same total time.
@wsrphoto That's a good point. I should clarify that I'm talking thermolysis here, and that my experience is with flash thermolysis, which builds heat super quickly over short periods of time (typically 0.1 second bursts).
@SleepyCatten i don’t remember all of the stuff I used to know by being in spaces with lots of transfem people in them, but apparently there are different kinds of laser, and it’s worth it to read up on them, as some places will sell something as laser that’s not proper laser hair removal and doesn’t really work on facial hair. I forgot what it was called though.

@enby_of_the_apocalypse nods

Yeah: I've added a section about the different laser types. The 2 common ones are:

  • 755 nm Alexandrite laser for skin types I to III (lighter)
  • 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser for skin types IV to VI (darker)
@SleepyCatten @enby_of_the_apocalypse I looked up the scale and my skin is probably type IV. I wonder if Nd:YAG laser places are easy to come by in Germany, a country of mostly white people. Especially as public health insurance only pays for medical places and not cosmetic ones.
@LunaDragofelis If you can find an public-health-insurance-approved place that uses a Candela GentleMax Pro or Pro Plus, it covers both types.
@enby_of_the_apocalypse
@SleepyCatten At least in the US, I’ve been buying 10% lidocaine cream without a prescription here: https://www.anestencream.com/shop
@emlove Thanks for sharing this Emily 🥰
@SleepyCatten If I might add: Laser and Tattoos do not mix! I've read about clinics that don't care to tell that...

@dec_hl @SleepyCatten Seconding this bit. Tattoos and lasers are not compatible. It's something I wish I thought of before getting some large pieces of my body decorated.

My electrologist says she can do removal on tattoos, but my dermatologist says you can't, and a different dermatologist said you can so ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯

I'm going to have my electrologist test on a small patch of one of my tattoos to see how it goes. Meanwhile if anyone has any info on tattoos and permanent hair removal, that would be nice to add to PSAs like this one.

@h3mmy @dec_hl For laser, it's almost universally a no, due to the interaction between how tattoos are created and kept in your skin and how laser hair removal works. It can cause skin burns and ruin the tattoo.

By comparison, electrolysis is deemed safe to use for tattoos through the industry. Some types might be better than others for you. There are 3 types: galvanic, thermolysis, and blend.

Your Tattoo is INSIDE Your Immune System. Literally

YouTube
@SleepyCatten just make sure to poke breath holes for the clean wrap ;)
@psiie @SleepyCatten I didn't cover my nose with the wrap, but I had to cut a slit for my mouth, and it was very scary having scissors this close to my lips, next time I'll try cutting the slit beforehand 😅
@psiie Are we talking about cling film for hair removal or something else? 😏🤭
@SleepyCatten thank you for this! It's the first take I have seen that doesn't include claiming that laser will invariably have regrowth. I have had the most bizarre arguments about it with people insisting that I will have regrowth someday even after I point out that I haven't in 10+ years (I only needed laser.)
@SleepyCatten I'm about to go through extensive laser hair removal. This is really useful. Thanks to all of you for always making such detailed posts, they're amazing resources. 

@SleepyCatten This is a fantastic post. I just wanted to add a couple of things:

- consider looking for a clinic that uses a laser with TEC (or other contact-based) cooling. These can allow for higher laser power or quicker pulses without causing additional discomfort / damage, so they save time/sessions

- whether TF, galv, or blend is more or less painful depends on the person. Ask your clinician if you can try multiple, or use different ones in different areas

1/?

@SleepyCatten and I wanted to address directly:

The idea that laser is semi-permanent is misinfo. Both laser and electro kill follicles permanently. And in both cases you may have to return for occasional maintenance removal, because new hair follicles naturally become active throughout your life time.

2/2

@SleepyCatten a question about at home IPL. is that good to use on the face ?

I see people saying that yes it is, they do it, it works well.

I see people saying no, facial hair is hormonal, and IPL can make it grow more

but I think most of that is from cis women. any trans folk with at home IPL experience ?

@araly tl;dr - IPL sucks and any personal device won't work well anywhere, especially on face.

And yes: we stupidly tried a high power IPL device on our face many times 🤦‍♀️

All it did was cause a lot of pain.

@SleepyCatten even more important: look up what medications you take might be photosensitive/photosensitizing, laser operators have missed the memo and don't ask about this
some medications will increase the pain and how much you get burnt
this includes antidepressants, antipsychotics, allergy meds, and some types of painkiller!!
this is very relevant information that many people miss