Riding the #lectricOne around a bit and I'm just astounded that they put a throttle on it and then mapped it to do the stupidest behavior imaginable. The fatbike hub motor has a lot of torque in the 20in wheel (2.3in not-really-fat tires) so pedal-assist level 5 hits hard if you're not pointed uphill, even level 1 is a bit severe. But if you're in level 0, the throttle does nothing, in level 1 it's limited, so you have to turn it to 5 to get full throttle command. Why have a throttle? #eBikes

Throttle should have full range from assist level 0 and never change its max power. I could see some utility of adjusting that on the fly but really just no.

People complain that pedal sensors are too on/off, but the problem is everyone uses a button pad to adjust them when that should really be like a grip shifter or something you can more easily do with mittens and be able to go all the way from 0-9 or whatever in one motion.

The lurching behavior can be controlled somewhat with ramp-up, but why are no e-bikes using an inclinometer, since weight and incline are what you really want to adjust the power to match?
I haven't unlocked the One to go 28mph yet, but I don't doubt it would do it. The 6-speed #pinion is okay but you're basically mashing 1st gear at anything under 10mph, 6th would be a high but sustainable cadence at 28mph. Some of the shifts are fairly big and the drop between cogs can be startling, but it mostly shifts quickly and with minimal interruption or unloading the crank (one specific step they say you can't upshift under load) but the motor helps power through an upshift on a climb.
The throttle also quits at 20mph, even if you raise the top speed, and I'm not sure there's a way to override that, but them's the regs. Also you're supposed to change stickers if you switch the settings πŸ™ƒ [let's geofence and speed govern cars now that we've mastered scooters]
Climbing some steeper hills, it's definitely capable. I'm about 200lb, this is S Custer.
LaView, from a stop. I think I had the assist in 2, tried just the throttle but had to turn it up and then pedal.
Let's say you're doing food delivery up Corbett.
It's less steep on this side of the split but you're more likely to have car traffic behind you here at busier times. At 15mph maybe that's fine, though it's also a bit fast to be dealing with drivers that don't get it trying to pass you.
3rd, north of Barbur
Leak on the hydraulic brake line, from the threads of the nut into the lever body. πŸ˜–

#nPlus1problems - do I try to get a new lock, tools, etc dedicated to this bike, or switch my kit to some easily removable bag? I currently have 4 bikes carrying a pump and tools, but this One also needs work to be secure, as the seat, pedals, and front wheel are all quick-release.

I could take the pedals off and put the lock through them, get a non-quick thru-axle bolt, and maybe the seat+post isn't worth stealing. (It could use a layback + suspension post πŸ˜’ that's not a thing.)

@enobacon couple years back I started keeping my kit in a fanny pack then I switch from bike to bike depending on which n plus one I'm using that day

@enobacon

If you're worried about losing your bike seat and post (a real possibility) here's a quick&dirty bike hack to secure the seat on a bike. It's a bike chain inside an innertube looped through the seat rails and under the stays that hold the carrier.

It should really be looped under the seat stays; I'll make that change when I swap the seat for one that's not held together with duct tape.

#Biking #BikeHack #BikeRepair

@enobacon Sounds like it would be my last delivery of the shift
@pleaseclap the range meter told me it could do 6-10 more miles of this, after 12.5 total miles of looking for steep hills for an hour. Maybe I should go do it in repeats until it won't.
@enobacon Inclinometer is the germ of a great idea but you'd have to compensate for acceleration, which would look to the sensor the same as a change in incline. Seems like the engineering would be tricky but doable.
@jef @enobacon The engineering is easy. The mfg knows the OEM bicycle weight, and the calculation to derive the actual gross vehicle weight from motor output power and actual acceleration is high school math, F=ma. 3D accelerometer chips are built-in to every smartphone, now, and are cheap.
@gcvsa @jef inertial frames of reference? I'm not sure we did that in high school.

@enobacon @jef It's a simple vector calculation, if you know the inclination relative to gravity normal, the power output of the motor, and the unloaded mass of the vehicle.

Well, I did go to a specialized high school with a math and science curriculum that is much more advanced that the typical American high school, but even if we say its undergraduate level math, it's easy for a microprocessor motor controller to accomplish. It just requires someone to see profit in actually implementing it.

@gcvsa @enobacon No, you have to figure out the current mass. That will probably require a short observation period on each ride to get data on level ground.

@jef @enobacon It's easy to calculate the current mass, if you know the original mass, the inclination relatvie to gravity normal, and the actual power output of the motor.

F=ma. Force = mass times acceleration.

You simply compare the actual acceleration with the expected acceleration of the unloaded vehicle to get the actual mass. Automatic wind resistance compensation, too.

The results will be accurate enough for these purposes, as we aren't calculating an orbital insertion trajectory.

@jef @enobacon The 3D accelerometer chips inside cellphones do this fast enough to be able to be used as videogame controllers without perceptible lag.
@gcvsa @enobacon Well, you keep missing my point, so I guess we're done here.
@jef @enobacon I don't believe I've missed your point, at all. You are free not to respond, that's your right, but I think I've done a pretty good job of explaining the actual physics and procedures involved.
@gcvsa @jef the actual incline is not able to be sensed without knowing mass and total torque at that instant. Maybe mass could be calibrated under constant speed on sufficient incline, or manual input would be close enough. Similarly, apparent wind speed and wheel speed could account for actual wind speed.
@gcvsa @jef high speedometer resolution could perhaps also account for acceleration vs slope
@enobacon @jef The actual incline could easily be determined by 3d acceleromter integrated circuits. The OEM mass is a known quantity, though I acknowledge that a certain amount of error would be introduced by accessory equipment, though this could be user calibrated within a certain range, or by dealer outside of that range. Actual torque and current would also be known to a pretty close margin. And since the goal would be to adjust acceleration, actual wind speed wouldn't matter.
@gcvsa @jef Maybe some sensor on a suspension fork would help you know if you're climbing a hill or doing a wheelie.
@enobacon I lierally just wrote a whole thing on how ebikes should not be power-limited by law, but rather should be power-limited by inclinometer and accelerometer. More power on hills, less power on flat, low or no power on downhill. Electric motors make max torque at 0 RPM, so limiting power from a standstill unless you are on an incline or hauling cargo is obvious (calibrate to OEM bicycle weight). The electronics to do this are ubiquitous and cheap, and the software to do it is simple.

@enobacon Anyone who rides an ebike in a hilly region immediately understand how absurb it is to limit ebikes to 750 W power, or worse, the 250 W limit in the EU.

My 500 W hub motor struggles to get up a 3.5% incline at 8 mph, and stops dead in the road on anything much steeper than that. The 9.5% hill that is the shortest route home for me is impossible.