Gammitin (Ben) 💾Floppy Drive Boot Test:
One thing I've discovered with this machine, something I've had with early Pentium PC's before- it's insanely fussy on harddrive solutions.
SD-IDE ❌
SATA-IDE ❌
It seems to only like either very small IDE drives, or simple CF-IDE, the BIOS is very limited.
SD-IDE ❌
SATA-IDE ❌
It seems to only like either very small IDE drives, or simple CF-IDE, the BIOS is very limited.
I seem to have gotten through my larger CF cards, I have a bunch of smaller ones, <512MB. I do however have one 1GB, that I've managed to install an old version of DSL (Knoppix based) Linux distro.
The system works flawlessly, I'm super happy the Matrox is working well @ 1280x1024. There's something magical about using Linux on a system that's nearly 30 years old, it's fun!
A while ago I made a PCI based XT-IDE card for such computers, I used this one in another build, but I may make another, rather than using a software drive overlay solution.
So, I've been messing with storage options again, EZ Drive fails, and Ontrack was tricky. Using all the three options it gives to setup the bios. But looks like I've figured it out, here's the error I kept getting.
So, I had to manually set the bios options for the drive, to give me roughly the storage on the SD card (SD to IDE). Then Ontrack let me setup a Fat32 partition. Instead of formatting it in Ontrack, I used format on the Win98 setup. I'm currently installing Win98 as a test...
32GB SD BTW.
I want multiple os's on this:
MS-DOS
Windows 95/98
Also a useable Linux install, DSL Knoppix I think.
Fingers crossed this works and is bootable, very fiddly!
I want multiple os's on this:
MS-DOS
Windows 95/98
Also a useable Linux install, DSL Knoppix I think.
Fingers crossed this works and is bootable, very fiddly!
I forgot something, I'm not using the original PSU, so the front fan is not powered on, I've setup a usb fan to cool the CPU (wasn't too hot, but safety first).
So I've discovered there's a way newer bios than the one this machine has installed.
I'm currently running:
BIOS Version 1.00.05. BROT
The newest version addresses issues with the HDD detection, it's:
BIOS Version 1.00.10. BROT
The bios chip is soldered, but I'm going to try it.
I'm currently running:
BIOS Version 1.00.05. BROT
The newest version addresses issues with the HDD detection, it's:
BIOS Version 1.00.10. BROT
The bios chip is soldered, but I'm going to try it.
Perfect!
The update went well and it's now detecting lots more new drives, SD to IDE and also SATA to IDE.
There's an 8.4GB limit, but that's way bigger than anything that was available when the PC was built, so I'm happy.
The update went well and it's now detecting lots more new drives, SD to IDE and also SATA to IDE.
There's an 8.4GB limit, but that's way bigger than anything that was available when the PC was built, so I'm happy.
Quickly tested a Windows 95 install, all went well. I'm thinking that I'm going to put multiple drives in here and have a boot loader CF, Windows 98 with MS-DOS mode, plus some other OS's, like Linux, BSD etc. Should be fun to test out.
So I've installed a PCI network card and also I've got loads of Soundblaster 128's, so I've decided to use it in this system. It's actually got amazing dos support, not Adlib but General Midi that supports 8MB wavesets.
Here's Duke Nukem 3D in DOS, with General Midi (Excuse the mess 😀):
A little bit of Doom with General Midi:
So this machine has 4x PCI slots, so far I have used 3. I think the best option for slot 4 is a USB card, but they're tricky with these old chipsets and Windows 98.
So far I've tried a modern VIA VT6212L, but as soon as the drivers start to load it crashes the system.
So far I've tried a modern VIA VT6212L, but as soon as the drivers start to load it crashes the system.
I picked up a few 20+ years old USB cards:
NEC uPD720101 (£1)
VIA VT6212L (probably won't work but £2)
Hopefully the NEC one will do the trick, but we'll have to wait and see. 🤞
NEC uPD720101 (£1)
VIA VT6212L (probably won't work but £2)
Hopefully the NEC one will do the trick, but we'll have to wait and see. 🤞
So I found out that a MR BIOS is available for this board, but the bios chip is soldered so it's a little scary! I'm doing it! 😬
Here's the options I now have, although I have lost the ability to boot from CD, not the end of the world, but we'll see if everything is ok and functional.
The first positive is that it now hasn't got the harddrive size limitation of 8GB. I've resized this install with PM8 and I can now use the whole 80GB.
I tested the games I installed yesterday, although the sound works fine in windows, in MS-DOS mode I've got issues. I've read that Mr. BIOS doesn't properly support PnP, but I'm not 100% sure. I'm doing a fresh install from scratch on a 32GB SD to IDE. We'll see 🤔
The Windows 98 install went well, the system somehow feels faster with the new bios, I've installed the Soundblaster PCI 128 drivers and have the legacy sound all setup in Windows.
8MB Wavetables added, I've configured Duke 3D inside Windows to use Soundblaster for SFX, General Midi for Music, works (didn't before the reinstall).
Now where I'm struggling:
I know the Interrupt is 9 and the Base I/O port of the soundcard is 1200, I cannot for the life of me get the soundcard to work in pure MS-DOS, frustrating:
I know the Interrupt is 9 and the Base I/O port of the soundcard is 1200, I cannot for the life of me get the soundcard to work in pure MS-DOS, frustrating:
So I've done a 360, having to change the soundcard for the sake of a funky bios I'm not going to do. I've reverted to the most recent Gateway bios, which is 1.00.10 BROT.
Decided to go with a 4GB SD card, which is large for this system. Reinstalling Win 98 again.
Decided to go with a 4GB SD card, which is large for this system. Reinstalling Win 98 again.
I found this ISA RealMagic EM8010 mpeg decoder card and randomly I stumbled upon the correct cable! 👍👍
I've just got to give it a quick clean and also sort out the bracket.
I've just got to give it a quick clean and also sort out the bracket.
Good to go!
REALmagic EM8010 ISA MPEG Audio/Video Accelerator - Net stream 1 (53-000517)
REALmagic EM8010 ISA MPEG Audio/Video Accelerator - Net stream 1 (53-000517)
Although this card is a little too old for this system, more suited to a 486 or older, I want to test it out and maybe use it on another older machine (like my favourite 386). Hopefully it works ok.
I've recorded a 12 minute update video, I can't upload it here as it's too big, so here's the link:
>Gateway 2000 Refurb / Rescue Update - Soundblaster 128 PCI in MS-DOS and next steps<
https://youtu.be/Xfpwz9k3cMo?si=h1vbypYcaCSFscLq
>Gateway 2000 Refurb / Rescue Update - Soundblaster 128 PCI in MS-DOS and next steps<
https://youtu.be/Xfpwz9k3cMo?si=h1vbypYcaCSFscLq
Gateway 2000 Refurb / Rescue Update - Soundblaster 128 PCI in MS-DOS and next steps
Good evening folks, if you haven't wanted my update video, reverting the BIOS did the trick!
I've now got a Soundblaster 128 PCI fully working in MS-DOS.
Here's the Windows 98 startup sound to celebrate 🎊
I've now got a Soundblaster 128 PCI fully working in MS-DOS.
Here's the Windows 98 startup sound to celebrate 🎊
One of my all-time favourites:
Descent II, can't wait to properly play this, like I did back in the day! 🤘
Descent II, can't wait to properly play this, like I did back in the day! 🤘
Heretic sound test in MS-DOS:
SFX: Soundblaster
Music: General Midi
SFX: Soundblaster
Music: General Midi
The USB 2.0 card is working in Windows 98! 👍
Excellent result, oh and the sound is still working in MS-DOS too. W00t
Excellent result, oh and the sound is still working in MS-DOS too. W00t
I have a full backup image of the system with everything working, using Ghost....
That's it, everything that can be removed (not riveted) is out, ready for a full deep clean.
I've decided to keep the original 6x CD-ROM, it's going to need some TLC inside, grease, laser clean etc. but it works.
It shows it's early, before they kind of standardised the front bezel design, there's a small PCB mounted to the front. It doesn't even have a manual eject hole
It shows it's early, before they kind of standardised the front bezel design, there's a small PCB mounted to the front. It doesn't even have a manual eject hole
Before cleaning shot, a piece of A4 behind, so we can see the original colour:
As we're having a heatwave in the UK and this bezel being huge, I'm going to Retrobright using Sunlight, this method is supposed to be longer lasting than using Hydrogen Peroxide and I have days of sun to use, so why not! ☀️ 😎
I've laid out silver foil to maximise coverage.
I've laid out silver foil to maximise coverage.
Decided to test out some rust removal gel on this I/O plate, worth a go first.
The top was after a few coats and about 5 hours, not exactly spectacular results, quite underwhelming, but it did remove a bit.
I'm so glad I never attempted to use the original PSU, the voltages are all over the place:
+12v is 3.5v
-12v is -1.2v
+5v fluctuates between +3v and +9.1v 😬
I have an ATX PSU with the wires cut off, that actually does -5v, so I'll solder in the AT cables, plus the power switch.
+12v is 3.5v
-12v is -1.2v
+5v fluctuates between +3v and +9.1v 😬
I have an ATX PSU with the wires cut off, that actually does -5v, so I'll solder in the AT cables, plus the power switch.
So after being in the 30°C sun today, I can see quite a big difference, I'm actually shocked how well this worked.
After
/
Before
After
/
Before
Looking good, the top half was a different colour previously, it seems to have all equalled out and it certainly looks better 👍
I decided to go nuclear on the internal frame, the only bit you will see is the rear, but there's rust everywhere.
I've used Direct to Rust Metal Spray Paint, it should have a nice and clean look after.
I've used Direct to Rust Metal Spray Paint, it should have a nice and clean look after.
I masked the original Gateway labels off before painting, as I thought it would be nice to keep them.
It's still got a while to dry, but this is what it will be like with the cover on:
Before
/
After 👇
It's still got a while to dry, but this is what it will be like with the cover on:
Before
/
After 👇
There's not really an easy way to photo black paint in direct sunlight because of shadows and reflections, but here's the inside. 👍
Jeff Robot 🤖@Gammitin — Ben, how did you treat the surface before painting, where and how did you spray? (Assuming it was spray painted)
@boxyrobot the spray paint I used is a direct to rust paint that doesn't need a separate primer. Obviously first I thoroughly cleaned the surfaces and removed as much rust as I could with a wire brush.
JaxxAI@Gammitin I used the same trick to lighten my Amiga 1200 a couple of months back after it had lived in the loft space for years. Worked a treat, looks like new.
Paul@Gammitin wow, that looks great. I’m having less impressive results with this monitor plastic (granted it’s a lot worse). It’s been a few days now.
#retrocomputing
#retrocomputing
@forty2 yours looks a lot worse than mine, so will probably take longer, but I'm sure eventually you'll get there.
Jonas@Gammitin
If you often have to test old mobos I cannot recommend enough ATX2AT ; it's one of the most precious tool in my retrocomputing arsenal
@magnetic_tape thanks for that, I'll look into it as it looks very useful
☠ Captain Arcee ☠@Gammitin glad ya didn't plug it in or else black smoke, and because you're in the UK with 240v instead of 120v in the states, I don't wanna know what kind of damage could've occured
Hakan Bayındır@Gammitin If you have access to Evapo-Rust, give it a go.
If it's enough for Hand Tool Rescue and Edd China (to remove rust from a whole car chassis), it'll be good to remove all the rust from this plate.
Ryan Walmsley@Gammitin Instead of?
I think when I did it, I used sunlight and Peroxide.
Microblog Castellano@Gammitin
I thought sunlight made white plastic yellow.
I thought sunlight made white plastic yellow.
prokyonid@microblogc @Gammitin the current science suggests the primary drivers of yellowing in ABS are UVA/UVB light, and that light in the visible spectrum produces a bleaching effect
So if you expose yellowed plastic to bright sunlight but filter out the UV light, you get a whitening effect.
Tim 🎮@Gammitin Cave Johnson welcomes you to Aperture Science