So a new #CyclingOnRails adventure started along the North coast of Spain! With a bit of delay to process it, this thread will distill thoughts of what we found along the way, topics will include mobility (railways, cycling, roads), urbanism, environment, etc. And let me tell you there'll be a lot to say!
Follow along here 👇
1/
The journey started with crossing France from the North-East to the South-West, with change of stations in Paris. 2 TGVs, 2 interactions with packed bicycles:
- In Basel, a passenger annoyed that I asked for our seats reserved onwards, and cyclist himself pointed out that our bicycle packing was illegal (only front wheel removed).
- In Paris Montparnasse, a conductor kindly guiding us to put packed bicycles upstairs, no remark about packing details. 💯
2/
The TGV to the South-West was full of British retirees. I don't doubt that a direct #CrossChannelRail service from London to Bordeaux or even beyond would be successful, even if it takes more than 5 hours. After all, British people don't seem to mind the 24h+ direct ferries to Spain, although that's arguably a different product (folks bringing their car or motorbike along). @jon
3/
Onwards from Dax, the first TER was cancelled but our TGV had a bit of delay due to thunderstorms, so we took the next one 30 min later. As bicycles were already packed we didn't have to manage reservations on the https://www.veloabord.fr portal. Unclear what would have happened if we had booked for the cancelled train.
This regiolis train model had ample space for luggage, so packed bicycles fit easily. 💯
4/
One more comment about the TGV Paris-Dax: one of the 2 official bicycle spots was unused, but we couldn't book it online together with an Interrail reservation. Prime example of how a mis-managed reservation system fails.
Arriving in St-Jean-de-Luz, we are greeted by a ramp "strictly reserved to disabled people" 🤦 What about strollers? Bicycles? Heavy luggage? Making your platform accessible to wheelchairs is also good for others! Especially when the ramp leads to a proper cycling lane. 🤷
5/
Cycling to the border bridge was a pleasant ride along well-marked cycling routes that you'll generally find on touristic destinations in France.
Props to this person hauling a long surf board on a bicycle. 💯 We really need to stop with the myth of surfers in their big vans, it's not that hard to go motor-free, especially when it's flat like here! 🚌🌫
The border town of Hendaye really had top-notch cycling path along the beach. 👌
6/
Cycling infrastructure on the other side of the border in the sister city of Irun wasn't as nice, although improving in some parts. Shout out to this cyclist with the "less cars more bicycles" sticker.
We passed by a large freight terminal: although there are no long-distance #CrossBorderRail trains, we indeed met a lot of freight trains on our way from Dax.
The way along the coast led to wonderful viewpoints, although it was steep!
7/
Down the hill, we suddenly go from wild forest to the industrial harbour of Pasaia in the suburbs of San Sebastian. A great way to see the full circle of the automobile industry: new cars in the background (brought here by countless trains), metal scrape in the foreground.
It also shows the scale of vehicle production: a single row of tramway cars dwarfed by a multi-layered storage for individual cars.
8/
Cycling across the San Sebastian urban area was a bit mixed. On the one hand there was somehow a continuous cycling path all the way for about 20 km. On the other hand its quality was really variable, lots of the time a narrow bidirectional path jumping from sidewalk to sidewalk, from red light to red light, circling around highways. There is definitely room for improvement!
#cycling #infrastructure #SanSebastian #Donostia
9/
These new rails need some love! One of the largest scale invasions of japanese knotweed I've seen since I'm paying attention. 🌿🌿🌿
Also, a park near the railway track was already invaded in half.
10/
Further on, we regularly cross groups of sport cyclists. Landscape is indeed beautiful and hilly. However, almost no women, despite women cycling growing in popularity in other countries. Could it have to be with the (un)safety of the roads?
Judge for yourself: Spain is a rare country where a mandatory minimum speed is reminded for overtaking lanes, and where a maximum speed is recommended on turns (rather than setting a strict limit). Rarely any shoulder space on the side of the road.
11/
One nice thing: in Spain there is always a road sign mentioning a railway whenever the road crosses it, like for rivers in many countries.
This narrow-gauge may not look like much, with this second track now abandoned. But unlike France's pristine stations, there are actually trains running here hourly from 6am to 11pm, with modern interior operated by Euskotren! The way might be slow, but you can actually reach the cities of Bilbao or San Sebastian from any village on this railway. 💯
12/
As we're in the Basque Country, let's talk about local traditions. One of them is the Basque pelota, a sport played on a dedicated court named fronton. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basque_pelota
We notice some differences across the border. In France we mostly see an outdoor wall with a characteristic red color and rouded shape. In Spain the front wall is often squared and there is a perpendicular side wall, generally indoors but sometimes in more curious places such as directly using the wall of a church!
13/
Let's talk about cycling infrastructure in Northern Spain. Most of the time, it's inexistant, simply a sign warning about the possibility of cyclists, with a fine print to overtake with a 1.5m distance written in microscopic font that no driver will ever be able to read. Which wasn't too bad as traffic is low outside of urban areas: after all, despite being clearly a car-first country, Spain isn't densely populated. #CyclingInfrastructure
14/
Sometimes, there is a proper cycling path too! But don't rejoy too fast: it's often shared with pedestrians, and in any case interrupts after at most a few km. Such as this half-finished round-about leading nowhere.
If the gambit is "you'll get cycling lanes if we got more roads to put on the side of", that's not a very good proposition...
15/
@spmrider I think we agree! Perhaps I didn't analyze the causes well, but there was very little traffic on the roads pictured here, most cars went to the parallel highway instead. So lack of infrastructure didn't feel bad as a cyclist in the countryside, unlike in denser populated countries :)
However, periurban areas weren't as nice, as a mix of more traffic & no cycling infra (or 30 zones) that (some) cities have in the center.
100% agree on foreign tourists driving worse.
Cycling on Rails
Oliver Brandmüller
ReneDamkot
Peter