@ascentale @bobjonkman @bikenite A7: The first thing you need to do is _completely_ clean the chain. Obscenely clean.

You can do this with denatured alcohol, fortunately, so it's not that difficult or expensive. An ultrasonic cleaner will help but isn't necessary. Just get it REALLY clean - you've got to get rid of all the petrochemical lubricants AND all the dirt for best results.

What you do then depends upon what kind of wax you're using. If you get a liquid wax like Effetto Mariposa Flowerpower, you can just do drip application like any oil lubricant.

(1/2)

#BikeNite

@ascentale @bobjonkman @bikenite

My chain wax is melted tea-light candles, with a hefty squirt of graphite powder added.

I thought I'd try a zero-cost experiment before actually buying anything, and I absolutely LOVE the results!

I clean the chains with mineral turpentine then methylated spirits, and melt the wax in a saucepan sacrified to the cycling gods.

Edit: I also toss a magnet in the cleaning fluids - you'll be gobsmacked at how many metal bits come out of a new chain

#BikeTooter

@ascentale @bobjonkman @bikenite SO, I waxed a chain (actually two), and I have to say the waxed chains are superior to lubricated chains, for sure.

I made my own wax mix -- candle wax (paraffin blocks) melted together with beeswax (I have a lot of extra beeswax, as I am a beekeeper). I put it in an old coffee tin and double boiled it over a camp stove outside. Dipped some chains (which had been cleaned, need to remove all the old lubricant). Also have to clean your drivetrain btw.

Anyway, once the wax is melted, you dip the chains in wax (I use some wire so you don't burn yourself... dip it in, pull it out and hang it somewhere until it cools off). Done! (then mount the chain).

It is not difficult, but it does require some time... melting wax... probably 30 minutes to an hour to do it as a project, you can probably do it in less once you have it all dialed in. Or you can get a crock pot and do it that way.

@ascentale @bobjonkman @bikenite I'm lazy so I went the full Silca route a couple of months ago with their cleaner, wax warmer, and wax. Only downside is the coffee filter method to filter the chain cleaner for reuse takes absolutely ages to pass through the filter. Other than that, works great and zero complaints. Totally agree with the other comments that making sure you start with a very clean chain is critical. I bought a handful of new chains and did those in bulk so we have enough for our main bikes and a spare set to rotate in later, makes it super easy.

Also, it's a good idea to pull your cassette off and also give that a good cleaning as well. I didn't on mine but did on hers, and the results are night and day. That's actually on my list for this weekend - pull my cassette off and give it a good cleaning since there's so much residual grease and grime on there from my non-waxed chain.

@ascentale @bobjonkman @bikenite A7. Not sure what it looks like, though I think it's mostly parafin wax. Noting this is all theory, no practice.

Really all you need to wax a chain is a melting pot (e.g. cheap crock pot from the thrift store), a way to hang the chain as it dries, and a cleaning station to get ALL the dirt and grease off the chain. Once the chain is fully clean, drop it in the wax for a spell (hot), then hang above the cleaning pot until dry. Wax can be reused.

#BikeNite

@ascentale @bobjonkman @bikenite The chain cleaning is a critical step, and the first time I read the recommended procedure, I had to go and lie down for a while. Fortunately now you can buy pre-waxed chains, which removes the biggest obstacle to waxing. And there are much better chain-stripping chemicals as well. In the future, I’m only buying pre-waxed chains.

Immersion waxing doesn’t last very long—perhaps 300 km, less in the wet. There are drip waxes that are sold alongside immersion waxes that can be used in between immersions to extend that. And there are a couple of immersion waxes claiming much better durability (rex.fi and ceramicspeed).