@tmcfarlane Less agitation usually reduces contrast - it should have the opposite effect. Adding fresh developer on the highlights increases development and would make them more dense/bright, after all.
My guess is your dev time is too long for the EI you're using, and yeah, I'd go down by 10% - but I think doing it based on a more "standard" agitation routine first might be a good idea.
This is the point where having a bulk roll to do short 12 exp tests would really help!
@tmcfarlane reduced agitation would reduce contrast, so you could lower the exposure, extend the development time, reduce the agitation, and as a result, you'd have push-processed the film without increasing the contrast too much (in theory).
It shouldn't give a speed boost alone... unless there's something special about pyro developers that I'm missing!
@coldkennels it's mentioned in the unblinking eye on staining devs (see Minimal Agitation in the linked article). The reduced agitation is supposed to increase adjacency effects, give a bit of compensation, and a speed boost. That said, I think I'm supposed to reduce the dilution too. It's not mentioned here, but elsewhere.
I'll go back to regular agitation until I've had a bit more success with the testing procedure
@tmcfarlane I think that's the only sane option.
I used to similarly see a LOT of rhapsodical nonsense about stand developing back in the early 2010s... so I tested it. It was all bullshit. (For instance, stand developing does not magically mean you can shoot different frames at "different ISOs" on the same film and they magically all come out okay: https://flickr.com/photos/coldkennels/albums/72157632642379219/)
I bought a bulk-loader from eBay and it happened to come with a half-used 100ft roll of this film inside. Knowing nothing about it, I spooled up a short roll and took it out for some exposure testing. It seems to work best at about 6ISO, stand developed in Rodinal 1:100 for an hour, with 30sec initial agitation. Overall, I'm amazed by how good this film is. I know it's called "fine grain" but it's almost grainless. Add in the lack of an anti-halation layer (at least, as far as I can tell), it's orthochromaticism and the super-slow speed, and you end up with a beautiful and high-character film. I don't know what to use it for but I do know I want more. (I should also point out that all of these are straight out of the scanner - no sharpening, no levels adjustment, no dust removal, no nothing. Just straight 1600 DPI scans with all automation turned off.)
@tmcfarlane How are you measuring this? Do you have a proper densitometer?
I'm with you: I hate trying to judge things by the output of a scanner. Too much automatic interpretation... give me a darkroom print any day.